Cell Senescence-Independent Changes of Human Skin Fibroblasts with Age.

Skin ageing is defined, in part, by collagen depletion and fragmentation that leads to a loss of mechanical tension. This is currently believed to reflect, in part, the accumulation of senescent cells. We compared the expression of genes and proteins for components of the extracellular matrix (ECM) as well as their regulators and found that in vitro senescent cells produced more matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) than proliferating cells from adult and neonatal donors. This was consistent with previous reports of senescent cells contributing to increased matrix degradation with age; however, cells from adult donors proved significantly less capable of producing new collagen than neonatal or senescent cells, and they showed significantly lower myofibroblast activation as determined by the marker α-SMA. Functionally, adult cells also showed slower migration than neonatal cells. We concluded that the increased collagen degradation of aged fibroblasts might reflect senescence, the reduced collagen production likely reflects senescence-independent processes.

Development of a novel in vitro strategy to understand the impact of shaving on skin health: combining tape strip exfoliation and human skin equivalent technology.

Introduction: The removal of unwanted hair is a widespread grooming practice adopted by both males and females. Although many depilatory techniques are now available, shaving remains the most common, despite its propensity to irritate skin. Current techniques to investigate the impact of shaving regimes on skin health rely on costly and lengthy clinical trials, which hinge on recruitment of human volunteers and can require invasive biopsies to elucidate cellular and molecular-level changes. Methods: Well-characterised human skin equivalent technology was combined with a commonplace dermatological technique of tape stripping, to remove cellular material from the uppermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). This method of exfoliation recapitulated aspects of razor-based shaving in vitro, offering a robust and standardised in vitro method to study inflammatory processes such as those invoked by grooming practices. Results: Tape strip insult induced inflammatory changes in the skin equivalent such as: increased epidermal proliferation, epidermal thickening, increased cytokine production and impaired barrier function. These changes paralleled effects seen with a single dry razor pass, correlated with the number of tape strips removed, and were attenuated by pre-application of shaving foam, or post-application of moisturisation. Discussion: Tape strip removal is a common dermatological technique, in this study we demonstrate a novel application of tape stripping, to mimic barrier damage and inflammation associated with a dry shave. We validate this method, comparing it to razor-based shaving in vitro and demonstrate the propensity of suitable shave- and skin-care formulations to mitigate damage. This provides a novel methodology to examine grooming associated damage and a platform for screening potential skin care formulations.

Quantitative morphometric analysis of intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III.

Skin ageing is an intricate physiological process affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. There is a demand to understand how the skin changes with age and photoexposure in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types I-III due to accelerated photoageing and the risk of cutaneous malignancies. To assess the structural impact of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, we analysed 14 skin parameters from the photoprotected buttock and photoexposed dorsal forearm of young and ageing females with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III (n = 20) using histomorphic techniques. Whilst the minimum viable epidermis (Emin ) remained constant (Q > 0.05), the maximum viable epidermis (Emax ) was decreased by both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.05), which suggests that differences in epidermal thickness are attributed to changes in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Changes in Emax were not affected by epidermal cell proliferation. For the first time, we investigated the basal keratinocyte morphology with age and photoexposure. Basal keratinocytes had an increased cell size, cellular height and a more columnar phenotype in photoexposed sites of young and ageing individuals (Q ≤ 0.05), however no significant differences were observed with age. Some of the most striking changes were observed in the DEJ, and a decrease in the interdigitation index was observed with both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.001), accompanied by a decreased height of rête ridges and dermal papilla. Interestingly, young photoexposed skin was comparable to ageing skin across many parameters, and we hypothesise that this is due to accelerated photoageing. This study highlights the importance of skin care education and photoprotection from an early age.

Regulation of epidermal proliferation and hair follicle cycling by synthetic photostable retinoid EC23.

BACKGROUND: Retinoid signaling is an important regulator of the epidermis and skin appendages. Therefore, synthetic retinoids have been developed for therapeutic use for skin disorders such as psoriasis and acne. AIMS: In previous studies, we showed how the photostable retinoid EC23 induces neuronal differentiation in stem cell-like cell populations, and here, we aim to investigate its ability to influence epidermal and hair follicle growth. METHODS: EC23 influence on skin biology was investigated initially in cultures of monolayer keratinocytes and three-dimentional in vitro models of skin, and finally in in vivo studies of mice back skin. RESULTS: EC23 induces keratinocyte hyperproliferation in vitro and in vivo, and when applied to mouse skin increases the number of involucrin-positive suprabasal cell layers. These phenotypic changes are similar in skin treated with the natural retinoid all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, EC23 is more potent; a tenfold lower dose of EC23 is sufficient to induce epidermal thickening, and resulting hyperproliferation is sustained for a longer time period after first dose. EC23 treatment resulted in a disorganized stratum corneum, reduced cell surface lipids and compromised barrier, similar to ATRA treatment. However, EC23 induces a rapid telogen to anagen transition and hair re-growth in 6-week-old mice with synchronously resting back skin follicles. The impact of EC23 on the hair cycle was surprising as similar results have not been seen with ATRA. CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that synthetic retinoid EC23 is a useful tool in exploring the turnover and differentiation of cells and has a potent effect on skin physiology.

The vitamin A ester retinyl propionate has a unique metabolic profile and higher retinoid-related bioactivity over retinol and retinyl palmitate in human skin models.

Human skin is exposed daily to environmental stressors, which cause acute damage and inflammation. Over time, this leads to morphological and visual appearance changes associated with premature ageing. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (ROL), retinyl palmitate (RPalm) and retinyl propionate (RP) have been used to reverse these changes and improve the appearance of skin. This study investigated a stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models. Skin biopsies were treated topically to compare skin penetration and metabolism. Treated keratinocytes were evaluated for transcriptomics profiling and hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis and treated 3D epidermal skin equivalents were stained for epidermal thickness, Ki67 and filaggrin. A retinoic acid receptor-alpha (RARα) reporter cell line was used to compare retinoid activation levels. Results from ex vivo skin found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared with RPalm. RP is metabolized primarily into ROL in the viable epidermis and dermis whereas ROL is esterified into RPalm and metabolized into the inactive retinoid 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol (14-HRR). RP treatment yielded higher RARα activation and HA synthesis levels than ROL whereas RPalm had a null effect. In keratinocytes, RP and ROL stimulated similar gene expression patterns and pathway theme profiles. In conclusion, RP and ROL show a similar response directionality whereas RPalm response was inconsistent. Additionally, RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or RPalm.