ToF-SIMS evaluation of PEG-related mass peaks and applications in PEG detection in cosmetic products.

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are used in industrial, medical, health care, and personal care applications. The cycling and disposal of synthetic polymers like PEGs pose significant environmental concerns. Detecting and monitoring PEGs in the real world calls for immediate attention. This study unveils the efficacy of time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) as a reliable approach for precise analysis and identification of reference PEGs and PEGs used in cosmetic products. By comparing SIMS spectra, we show remarkable sensitivity in pinpointing distinctive ion peaks inherent to various PEG compounds. Moreover, the employment of principal component analysis effectively discriminates compositions among different samples. Notably, the application of SIMS two-dimensional image analysis visually portrays the spatial distribution of various PEGs as reference materials. The same is observed in authentic cosmetic products. The application of ToF-SIMS underscores its potential in distinguishing PEGs within intricate environmental context. ToF-SIMS provides an effective solution to studying emerging environmental challenges, offering straightforward sample preparation and superior detection of synthetic organics in mass spectral analysis. These features show that SIMS can serve as a promising alternative for evaluation and assessment of PEGs in terms of the source, emission, and transport of anthropogenic organics.

Innovative Alkanediol-Based Eutectic Solvents for Extracting/Pre-Formulating Dermatologically Valuable Free Fatty Acids from Spirulina and Porphyridium Cakes.

The growing demand for phycobiliproteins from microalgae generates a significant volume of by-products, such as extraction cakes. These cakes are enriched with products of interest for the cosmetics market, namely free fatty acids, particularly polyunsaturated (PUFA). In this work, two cakes, one of spirulina and one of Porphyridium cruentum, were valorized using innovative natural hydrophobic deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) based on alkanediols. The most promising NaDES, as determined by physicochemical properties and screening, are mixtures of alkanediols and fatty acids. These include the mixtures of 1,3-propanediol and octanoic acid (1:5, mol/mol) and 1,3-propanediol and octanoic and decanoic acid (1:3:1, mol/mol). Two extractive processes were implemented: ultrasound-assisted extraction and an innovative mechanical process involving dual asymmetric centrifugation. The second process resulted in the production of extracts significantly enriched in PUFA, ranging from 65 to 220 mg/g dry matter with the two cakes. The extracts and NaDES demonstrated good safety with respect to epidermal keratinocyte viability (>80% at 200 µg/mL). The study of their impact on commensal and pathogenic cutaneous bacteria demonstrated significant effects on the viability of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis (>50% decrease at 200 µg/mL) while preserving Corynebacterium xerosis and Cutibacterium acnes. These results highlight the potential of valorizing these co-products using alkanediol-based NaDES, in a strategy combining an active vector (NaDES) and a growth regulator extract, for the management of cutaneous dysbiosis involving staphylococci.

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex.

PURPOSE: This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations. METHODS: The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters. RESULTS: The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed. CONCLUSION: The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

Identification of Yellow Advanced Glycation End Products in Human Skin.

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores "(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one" (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

Ultrasonic treatment of endocrine disrupting compounds, pharmaceuticals, and personal care products in water: An updated review.

Pharmaceuticals, personal care products (PPCPs), and endocrine-disrupting compounds (EDCs) have seen a recent sustained increase in usage, leading to increasing discharge and accumulation in wastewater. Conventional water treatment and disinfection processes are somewhat limited in effectively addressing this micropollutant issue. Ultrasonication (US), which serves as an advanced oxidation process, is based on the principle of ultrasound irradiation, exposing water to high-frequency waves, inducing thermal decomposition of H2O while using the produced radicals to oxidize and break down dissolved contaminants. This review evaluates research over the past five years on US-based technologies for the effective degradation of EDCs and PPCPs in water and assesses various factors that can influence the removal rate: solution pH, temperature of water, presence of background common ions, natural organic matter, species that serve as promoters and scavengers, and variations in US conditions (e.g., frequency, power density, and reaction type). This review also discusses various types of carbon/non-carbon catalysts, O3 and ultraviolet processes that can further enhance the degradation efficiency of EDCs and PPCPs in combination with US processes. Furthermore, numerous types of EDCs and PPCPs and recent research trends for these organic contaminants are considered.

Melanin for Photoprotection and Hair Coloration in the Emerging Era of Nanocosmetics.

Nanotechnology is revolutionizing fields of high social and economic impact. such as human health preservation, energy conversion and storage, environmental decontamination, and art restoration. However, the possible global-scale application of nanomaterials is raising increasing concerns, mostly related to the possible toxicity of materials at the nanoscale. The possibility of using nanomaterials in cosmetics, and hence in products aimed to be applied directly to the human body, even just externally, is strongly debated. Preoccupation arises especially from the consideration that nanomaterials are mostly of synthetic origin, and hence are often seen as "artificial" and their effects as unpredictable. Melanin, in this framework, is a unique material since in nature it plays important roles that specific cosmetics are aimed to cover, such as photoprotection and hair and skin coloration. Moreover, melanin is mostly present in nature in the form of nanoparticles, as is clearly observable in the ink of some animals, like cuttlefish. Moreover, artificial melanin nanoparticles share the same high biocompatibility of the natural ones and the same unique chemical and photochemical properties. Melanin is hence a natural nanocosmetic agent, but its actual application in cosmetics is still under development, also because of regulatory issues. Here, we critically discuss the most recent examples of the application of natural and biomimetic melanin to cosmetics and highlight the requirements and future steps that would improve melanin-based cosmetics in the view of future applications in the everyday market.

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy.

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.

Unveiling the potential of Pseudococcomyxa simplex: a stepwise extraction for cosmetic applications.

Microalgae are gaining attention as they are considered green fabrics able to synthesize many bioactive metabolites, with unique biological activities. However, their use at an industrial scale is still a challenge because of the high costs related to upstream and downstream processes. Here, a biorefinery approach was proposed, starting from the biomass of the green microalga Pseudococcomyxa simplex for the extraction of two classes of molecules with a potential use in the cosmetic industry. Carotenoids were extracted first by an ultrasound-assisted extraction, and then, from the residual biomass, lipids were obtained by a conventional extraction. The chemical characterization of the ethanol extract indicated lutein, a biosynthetic derivative of α-carotene, as the most abundant carotenoid. The extract was found to be fully biocompatible on a cell-based model, active as antioxidant and with an in vitro anti-aging property. In particular, the lutein-enriched fraction was able to activate Nrf2 pathway, which plays a key role also in aging process. Finally, lipids were isolated from the residual biomass and the isolated fatty acids fraction was composed by palmitic and stearic acids. These molecules, fully biocompatible, can find application as emulsifiers and softener agents in cosmetic formulations. Thus, an untapped microalgal species can represent a sustainable source for cosmeceutical formulations. KEY POINTS: • Pseudococcomyxa simplex has been explored in a cascade approach. • Lutein is the main extracted carotenoid and has antioxidant and anti-aging activity. • Fatty acids are mainly composed of palmitic and stearic acids.

Characterisation of Cannabis-Based Products Marketed for Medical and Non-Medical Use Purchased in Portugal.

Cannabis-based products have gained attention in recent years for their perceived therapeutic benefits (with cannabinoids such as THC and CBD) and widespread availability. However, these products often lack accurate labelling regarding their cannabinoid content. Our study, conducted with products available in Portugal, revealed significant discrepancies between label claims and actual cannabinoid compositions. A fully validated method was developed for the characterisation of different products acquired from pharmacies and street shops (beverages, herbal samples, oils, and cosmetic products) using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector. Linearity ranged from 0.4 to 100 µg/mL (0.04-10 µg/mg) (THC, 8-THC, CBD, CBG, CBDA, CBGA), 0.1-100 µg/mL (0.01-10 µg/mg) (CBN), 0.4-250 µg/mL (0.04-25 µg/mg) (THCA-A), and 0.8-100 µg/mL (0.08-10 µg/mg) (CBCA). Among sampled beverages, none contained detectable cannabinoids, despite suggestive packaging. Similarly, oils often differed from the declared cannabinoid compositions, with some containing significantly higher CBD concentrations than labelled. These inconsistencies raise serious concerns regarding consumer safety and informed decision-making. Moreover, our findings underscore the need for stringent regulation and standardised testing protocols to ensure the accuracy and safety of cannabis-based products.

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry.

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Feteasca Neagra, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 biosurfactants as alternative to chemical surfactants for application in eco-friendly cosmetics and skincare products.

Cosmetics have been extremely popular throughout history and continue to be so today. Cosmetic and personal care products, including toothpaste, shampoo, lotions, and makeup, are typically made with petroleum-based surfactants. Currently, there is an increasing demand to enhance the sustainability of surface-active compounds in dermal formulations. Biosurfactants, derived from living cells, are considered more environmentally friendly than synthetic surfactants. Thus, the use of biosurfactants is a promising strategy for formulating more environmentally friendly and sustainable dermal products. Biosurfactants have the potential to replace chemical surface-active agents in the cosmetic sector due to their multifunctional qualities, such as foaming, emulsifying, and skin-moisturizing activities.In this study, two glycolipopeptide biosurfactants derived from Lactiplantibacillus plantarum OL5 were used as stabilizing factors in oil-in-water emulsions in the presence of coconut oils. Both biosurfactants increased emulsion stability, particularly in the 1:3 ratio, dispersion, and droplet size. Moreover, the cytotoxicity of the two Lactiplantibacillus plantarum biosurfactants was assessed on B lymphocytes and MCF-7 cells. Overall, the results gathered herein are very promising for the development of new green cosmetic formulations.

The influence of Leucidal, a natural cosmetic preservative, on fibroblast and keratinocytes. Studies on cells and on model membrane systems.

The aim of this work was to investigate the influence of Leucidal® Liquid (abbr. Leucidal), which is recommended as a natural cosmetic ingredient of antimicrobial properties, on model membranes of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The toxicity tests on cell lines were also performed to allow for a more detailed discussion of the results. As model membrane systems the lipid Langmuir monolayers were applied. During the investigations, the surface pressure/area measurements, penetration studies and Brewster Angle Microscopy (BAM) visualization were performed for one component and mixed lipid monolayers. It was evidenced that at the membrane - corresponding conditions, the components of Leucidal do not penetrate either model keratinocyte and fibroblast membranes or one component films composed of the major lipids of skin cell membranes. Leucidal makes these systems slightly more expanded and less stable, however this is not reflected in the changes in the film morphology. Only the ceramide systems were sensitive to the presence of Leucidal, i.e. the incorporation of Leucidal components manifested well in the decrease of the films' condensation and alterations in their morphology. The tests on cells demonstrated that Leucidal is non toxic for these types of cells at the concentrations suggested by the producer. A thorough comparison of these results with those published for bacteria model membranes enabled us to discuss them in the context of the mechanism of action of Leucidal components. It was concluded that Leucidal components are of low affinity to the skin cellular model membranes of low content of Leucidal-sensitive ceramides and are not toxic for fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Moreover, the lipid composition of the membrane and its molecular organization can be important targets for Leucidal components, decisive from the point of view of the activity and selectivity of the studied composition.

Preparation of high antioxidant nanolignin and its application in cosmetics.

Lignin, as a natural polyphenol, displays anti-oxidant activity by trapping and binding free radicals through its free phenolic hydroxyl groups. However, the most accessible form, industrial lignins, generally has low phenolic hydroxyl content, which severely limits their application value and scenarios. Herein, we showed that potassium-glycerate deep eutectic solvent (PG-DES) treatment can be combined with laccase oxidation to afford prepared high antioxidant lignin nanoparticles (HA-LNPs) with notably improved anti-oxidant activities benefiting from both the enhanced phenolic hydroxyl content 170.8 % and reduced average particle size (59.0 nm). At concentrations as low as 60 µg/mL, HA-LNPs showed favorable effects in promoting collagen formation. When HA-LNPs were used as an active ingredient in the anti-aging mask formulation, the reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity of mask samples containing 0.4 % HA-LNPs reached 37.2 %. The data suggest great promise of HA-LNPs as a natural antioxidant for formulating in anti-aging skin care products.

Azadirachta indica leaf extract based green-synthesized ZnO nanoparticles coated on spent tea waste activated carbon for pharmaceuticals and personal care products removal.

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are emerging contaminants in aqueous systems, posing threat to both human health and environment. In prior research, predominant focus has been on examining various adsorbents for removing PPCPs from single-pollutant systems. However, no study has delved into simultaneous adsorption of PPCPs multi-pollutant mixture. This study evaluates performance of Azadirachta indica leaf extract-based green-synthesized ZnO nanoparticles coated on spent tea waste activated carbon (ZTAC) for removing sulfadiazine (SZN) and acetaminophen (ACN). Adsorption investigations were conducted in single-component (ACN/SZN) and binary-component (ACN + SZN) systems. The synthesized ZTAC was characterized using SEM, XRD, FTIR, EDX, porosimetry and pHpzc analysis. The study examines impact of time (1-60 min), dose (0.2-4 g/L), pH (2-12) and PPCPs concentration (1-100 mg/L) on ACN and SZN removal. Various kinetic and isotherm models were employed to elucidate mechanisms involved in sorption of PPCPs. Furthermore, synergistic and antagonistic aspects of sorption process in multi-component system were investigated. ZTAC, characterized by its crystalline nature and surface area of 980.85 m2/g, exhibited maximum adsorption capacity of 47.39 mg/g for ACN and 34.01 mg/g for SZN under optimal conditions of 15 min, 3 g/L and pH 7. Langmuir isotherm and pseudo-second-order kinetic model best-fitted the experimental data indicating chemisorption mechanism. Removal of ACN and SZN on ZTAC demonstrated synergistic nature, signifying cooperative adsorption. Overall, valorization of ZTAC offers effective and efficient adsorbent for elimination of PPCPs from wastewater.

For the occurrence of PPCPs from source to tap: A novel approach modified in terms of sample preservation and SPE cartridge to monitor PPCPs in our water supply.

BACKGROUND: The ongoing infusion of pharmaceutical and personal care products (PPCPs) into ecosystems sustains a perpetual life cycle and leads to multi-generational exposures. Limited understanding of their environmental impact and their intrinsic ability to induce physiological effect in humans, even at low doses, pose great risks to human health. Few scholarly works have conducted systematic research into the occurrence of PPCPs within potable water systems. Concurrently, the associated monitoring techniques have not been comprehensively examined with regards to the specific nature of drinking water, namely whether the significant presence of disinfectants may influence the detection of PPCPs. RESULTS: A modified approach in terms of detailed investigation of sample preservation and optimization of an in-lab fabricated solid phase extraction (SPE) cartridge filled with DVB-VP and PS-DVB sorbent was proposed. Favorable methodological parameters were achieved, with correlation coefficients spanning from 0.9866 to 0.9998. The LODs of the PPCPs fluctuated from 0.001 to 2 µg L-1, while the LOQs varied from 0.002 to 5 µg L-1. The analysis of spiked samples disclosed a methodological precision of 2.31-9.86 % and a recovery of 52.4-119 %. We utilized the established method for analyzing 14 water samples of three categories (source water, finished water and tap water) from five centralized water supply plants. A total of 24 categories encompassing 72 PPCPs were detected, with the concentrations of PPCPs manifested a marked decrease from source water to finished water and finally to tap water. SIGNIFICANCE: Our research meticulously examined the enhancement and purification effects of widely used commercial SPE cartridges and suggested the use of in-lab fabricated SPE cartridges packed with DVB-VP and PS-DVB adsorbents. We also conducted a systematic evaluation of the need to incorporate ascorbic acid and sodium thiosulfate as preservatives for PPCP measurement, in consideration of the unique characteristics of drinking water matrices, specifically, the significant concentration levels of disinfectants. Furthermore, the proposed method was effectively employed to study the presence of PPCPs in source water, finished water, and tap water collected from centralized water supply plants.

Deep Learning Model for Cosmetic Gel Classification Based on a Short-Time Fourier Transform and Spectrogram.

Cosmetics and topical medications, such as gels, foams, creams, and lotions, are viscoelastic substances that are applied to the skin or mucous membranes. The human perception of these materials is complex and involves multiple sensory modalities. Traditional panel-based sensory evaluations have limitations due to individual differences in sensory receptors and factors such as age, race, and gender. Therefore, this study proposes a deep-learning-based method for systematically analyzing and effectively identifying the physical properties of cosmetic gels. Time-series friction signals generated by rubbing the gels were measured. These signals were preprocessed through short-time Fourier transform (STFT) and continuous wavelet transform (CWT), respectively, and the frequency factors that change over time were distinguished and analyzed. The deep learning model employed a ResNet-based convolution neural network (CNN) structure with optimization achieved through a learning rate scheduler. The optimized STFT-based 2D CNN model outperforms the CWT-based 2D and 1D CNN models. The optimized STFT-based 2D CNN model also demonstrated robustness and reliability through k-fold cross-validation. This study suggests the potential for an innovative approach to replace traditional expert panel evaluations and objectively assess the user experience of cosmetics.

Rapid determination of 111 anti-infective drugs possibly added in cosmetics using high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry with scheduled multiple reaction monitoring.

RATIONALE: Illegal addition of anti-infective drugs to cosmetics at low concentrations has been found. The illicit addition of anti-infective drugs encompasses a wide variety of medications. The current sample purification methods are inadequate to detect all these compounds. A sensitive, wide-coverage, and weak-matrix-effect measurement method needs to be established to address this issue. METHODS: Samples were extracted using acetonitrile, diluted 25 times, and then analyzed using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) to detect 111 anti-infective drugs. The method was validated and assessed for matrix effect before being applied to cosmetic products. RESULTS: The calibration curves for the analytes exhibited a strong correlation coefficient (r > 0.995). The limit of detection ranged from 0.006 to 0.6 mg/kg. Matrix effects were significantly improved after a 25-fold dilution. The method was successfully applied to various cosmetics. Two of 82 samples tested contained lincomycin and miconazole, respectively. CONCLUSIONS: The developed method is quick and reliable to analyze anti-infective drugs in cosmetics, with potential for both qualitative and quantitative analyses. It is a valuable tool for cosmetic research and development, contributing to safer and more effective cosmetic products.

Cosmetically Approved Short-Chain Alcohol/Triethyl Citrate/Water Surfactant-Free Microemulsions and Potential Application to Transdermal Penetration of α-Arbutin.

Surfactant-free microemulsions (SFMEs) exhibited remarkable advantages and potential, attributed to their similarity to traditional surfactant-based microemulsions and the absence of surfactants. Herein, a novel SFME was developed utilizing cosmetically approved materials, such as short-chain alcohol as an amphi-solvent, triethyl citrate (TEC) as the nonpolar phase, and water as the polar phase. 1,2-Pentanediol (PtDO)/TEC/water combination can form the largest monophasic zone, accounting for ∼74% of the total phase diagram area, due to an optimal hydrophilic (water)-lipophilic (TEC) balance. Comparable to surfactant-based microemulsion, PtDO/TEC/water SFME can also be categorized into three types: water-in-oil, discontinuous, and oil-in-water. As TEC or water is increased, or PtDO is decreased, the nanoaggregates in PtDO/TEC/water SFME grow from <5 nm to tens of nanometers. The addition of α-arbutin (ABN) does not disrupt PtDO/TEC/water SFME, but rather enhances its formation, resulting in a larger monophasic area and consistent size (2.8-3.8 nm) through participating in interface assembly. Furthermore, ABN-loaded PtDO/TEC/water SFME exhibits remarkable resistance to dilution, exceptional stability, and minimal irritation. Notably, PtDO/TEC/water SFME significantly boosts ABN's solubility in water by 2 times, its percutaneous penetration rate by 3-4 times, and enables a slow-release DPPH• radical scavenging effect. This SFME serves as a safe and cosmetically suitable nanoplatform for the delivery of bioactive substances.

Zinc Phenolsulfonate.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed newly available studies since their original assessment in 1986 and a previous re-review in 2004, along with updated information regarding product types and concentrations of use. Considering this information, the Panel confirmed that Zinc Phenolsulfonate is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the present practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide.

Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.