Preliminary evaluation of particle systems visualization on the skin surface by scanning electron microscopy and transparency profilometry.

BACKGROUND: There is a rising debate concerning the possible side effects arising from the use of particles at nanosize since the production of nanomaterials is increasing worldwide. Nanoparticles are able to enter the body through the skin, lungs or intestinal tract, depositing in several organs, and the risk associated with exposure to them, the routes of entry and the molecular mechanisms of any cytotoxicity need to be well understood. The aim of this work was to evaluate the suitability of skin replica as a method to study the colloidal systems visualization and distribution on skin surface. METHODS: Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) were used as carrier systems. Skin replicas on healthy volunteers, before and after SLN application, were prepared and visualized using profilometry and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). RESULTS: The results obtained in our study show that skin replica represents a suitable method to study the colloidal systems and their interaction with the skin surface. CONCLUSION: Profilometry enabled us to observe the systems distribution on a cutaneous texture. In addition, SEM, thanks to its high magnifications and field depth, allowed us to evaluate particles' distribution on the skin texture and the interaction between particles of different compositions and replica silicone.

Skin absorption studies of octyl-methoxycinnamate loaded poly(D,L-lactide) nanoparticles: estimation of the UV filter distribution and release behaviour in skin layers.

New formulation strategies have to be developed to limit the skin penetration of UV-filter. Nanoparticles (NP) are very suitable for that purpose. In this study, the skin distribution, at different times (1, 2 and 3 h), of octyl-methoxycinnamate (OMC) from loaded PLA-nanoparticles was compared to a classical formulation containing non-encapsulated OMC, using the Franz cell method. The results showed that the OMC penetration was clearly impeded by stratum corneum and that the major part of the OMC-NP was accumulated at the skin surface (> 80%). A significant lower OMC amount was quantified in viable skin with NP compared to the OMC emulgel. To accurately determine the real OMC amount in close contact with viable skin layers two solvents were used to extract OMC from the skin compartments. Acetone (ACET) allowed quantifying both OMC in NP and OMC released from the particles, while isopropylmyristate (IPM), a non-solvent of the NP polymer (PLA), allowed quantifying only OMC released from the particles. Using IPM as an extraction solvent, it appeared that the OMC released from NP, in contact with viable skin, was 3-fold lower than free OMC diffused from the emulgel. Lastly, a sustained release was observed when nanoparticles were used.

Poly(D,L-lactide) nanoencapsulation to reduce photoinactivation of a sunscreen agent.

The use of sunscreens is the 'gold standard' for protecting the skin from ultraviolet light. Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is one of the most widely used UVB filter but it can act as a sensitizer or photoallergen. When exposed to sunlight, OMC can change from the primary trans-form to cis-form and the isomerization, not reversible, conducts to a reduction of the UVB filtering efficiency because the trans-form has a higher extinction coefficient. Photostability is the most important characteristic of effective sunscreens and it can be influenced by formulation ingredients and by applying technological strategies. In this work, photostability experiments, performed on emulsion-gels containing different percentages of OMC free or loaded in poly(D,L-lactide) nanoparticles, were carried out. The presence of a polymeric envelop may act to protect the active ingredient. In this study, the influence of poly(D,L-lactide) matrices on the photochemical stability of the sunscreen agent was investigated. As highlighted in this study, free OMC in different formulations has different photoisomerization degree. Moreover, a dissimilar behaviour was observed by studying different sunscreen concentrations in the same cosmetic formulation. Photostability results show a significant reduction in photoisomerization degree for formulations containing sunscreen loaded in nanoparticles, highlighting that the encapsulation is a suitable strategy to improve OMC photostability. Moreover, sun protection factor (SPF) results show that the UVB filter protective power is also maintained after encapsulation.

Efficacy of oleuropein against UVB irradiation: preliminary evaluation.

Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim of this work was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of oleuropein against UVB-induced erythema. To this end, an emulsion and an emulgel containing oleuropein were prepared, applied and evaluated on healthy volunteers who had undergone UVB irradiation to investigate its protective and/or lenitive activity. Protective effect was assayed by application of topical preparations before irradiation and lenitive effect was evaluated after erythema induction. Vitamin E was used as the reference compound. Our study was carried out by using noninvasive techniques to assess specific skin parameters: barrier function, skin colour and microcirculation. Results clearly showed that oleuropein formulations highlighted lenitive efficacy by reducing erythema, transepidermal water loss and blood flow of about 22%, 35% and 30% respectively. The study allowed us to point out the lenitive property of oleuropein, opening the way to further trials to deepen our specific knowledge about this natural molecule, which could be used in association with other active ingredients in cosmetics to repair UV damages.