Characteristics and Clinical Implications of Immunoglobulins Derived from Non B Cells in the Skin.

Skin is the most prominent tissue and organ, as well as the first line of defence, of the body. Because it is situated on the body's surface, it is constantly exposed to microbial, chemical, and physical factors such as mechanical stimulation. Therefore, skin has evolved substantial immune defences, regenerative ability, and anti-injury capacity. Epidermal cells produce antibacterial peptides that play a role in immune defence under physiological conditions. Additionally, IgG or IgA in the skin also participates in local anti-infective immunity. However, based on the classical theory of immunology, Ig can only be produced by B cells which should be derived from local B cells. This year, thanks to the discovery of Ig derived from non B cells (non B-Ig), Ig has also been found to be expressed in epidermal cells and contributes to immune defence. Epidermal cell-derived IgG and IgA have been demonstrated to have potential antibody activity by binding to pathogens. However, these epidermal cell-derived Igs show different microbial binding characteristics. For instance, IgG binds to Staphylococcus aureus and IgA binds to Staphylococcus epidermidis. Epidermal cells producing IgG and IgA may serve as an effective defense mechanism alongside B cells, providing a novel insight into skin immunity.

Investigating the Free Volumes as Nanospaces in Human Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers Using Positron Annihilation Lifetime Spectroscopy (PALS).

This work is the first one that provides not only evidence for the existence of free volumes in the human stratum corneum but also focuses on comparing these experimental data, obtained through the unique positron annihilation lifetime spectroscopy (PALS) method, with theoretical values published in earlier works. The mean free volume of 0.269 nm was slightly lower than the theoretical value of 0.4 nm. The lifetime τ3 (1.83 ns with a coefficient of variation CV of 3.21%) is dependent on the size of open sites in the skin. This information was used to calculate the free volume radius R (0.269 nm with CV 2.14%), free volume size Vf (0.081 nm3 with CV 4.69%), and the intensity I3 (9.01% with CV 10.94%) to estimate the relative fractional free volume fv (1.32 a.u. with CV 13.68%) in human skin ex vivo. The relation between the lifetime of o-Ps (τ3) and the radius of free volume (R) was formulated using the Tao-Eldrup model, which assumes spherical voids and applies to sites with radii smaller than 1 nm. The results indicate that PALS is a powerful tool for confirming the existence of free volumes and determining their size. The studies also focused on describing the probable locations of these nanospaces in SC lipid bilayers. According to the theory, these play an essential role in dynamic processes in biological systems, including the diffusion of low-molecular-weight hydrophobic and moderately hydrophilic molecules. The mechanism of their formation has been determined by the molecular dynamics of the lipid chains.

GLI Transcriptional Targets S100A7 and KRT16 Show Upregulated Expression Patterns in Epidermis Overlying the Tumor Mass in Melanoma Samples.

Although not completely understood, the role of the Hedgehog-GLI (HH-GLI) signaling pathway in melanoma and epithelial skin tumors has been reported before. In this study, we confirmed in various melanoma cell line models that keratin 16 (KRT16) and S100 Calcium-Binding Protein A7 (S100A7) are transcriptional targets of GLI Family Zinc Finger (GLI) proteins. Besides their important role in protecting and maintaining the epidermal barrier, keratins are somehow tightly connected with the S100 family of proteins. We found that stronger expression of KRT16 indeed corresponds to stronger expression of S100A7 in our clinical melanoma samples. We also report a trend regarding staining of GLI1, which corresponds to stronger staining of GLI3, KRT16, and S100A7 proteins. The most interesting of our findings is that all the proteins are detected specifically in the epidermis overlying the tumor, but rarely in the tumor itself. The examined proteins were also not detected in the healthy epidermis at the edges of the sample, suggesting that the staining is specific to the epidermis overlaying the tumor mass. Of all proteins, only S100A7 demonstrated a statistically significant trend regarding tumor staging and staining intensity. Results from our clinical samples prove that immune infiltration is an important feature of melanoma. Pigmentophages and tumor-infiltrating lymphocytes (TIL) demonstrate a significant association with tumor stage, while mononuclear cells are equally present in all stages. For S100A7, we found an association between the number of TILs and staining intensity. Considering these new findings presented in our study, we suggest a more detailed examination of the possible role of the S100A7 protein as a biomarker in melanoma.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Improving dermal fibroblast-to-epidermis communications and aging wound repair through extracellular vesicle-mediated delivery of Gstm2 mRNA.

Skin aging is characterized by the disruption of skin homeostasis and impaired skin injury repair. Treatment of aging skin has long been limited by the unclear intervention targets and delivery techniques. Engineering extracellular vesicles (EVs) as an upgraded version of natural EVs holds great potential in regenerative medicine. In this study, we found that the expression of the critical antioxidant and detoxification gene Gstm2 was significantly reduced in aging skin. Thus, we constructed the skin primary fibroblasts-derived EVs encapsulating Gstm2 mRNA (EVsGstm2), and found that EVsGstm2 could significantly improve skin homeostasis and accelerate wound healing in aged mice. Mechanistically, we found that EVsGstm2 alleviated oxidative stress damage of aging dermal fibroblasts by modulating mitochondrial oxidative phosphorylation, and promoted dermal fibroblasts to regulate skin epidermal cell function by paracrine secretion of Nascent Polypeptide-Associated Complex Alpha subunit (NACA). Furthermore, we confirmed that NACA is a novel skin epidermal cell protective molecule that regulates skin epidermal cell turnover through the ROS-ERK-ETS-Cyclin D pathway. Our findings demonstrate the feasibility and efficacy of EVs-mediated delivery of Gstm2 for aged skin treatment and unveil novel roles of GSTM2 and NACA for improving aging skin.

A mechanical transition from tension to buckling underlies the jigsaw puzzle shape morphogenesis of histoblasts in the Drosophila epidermis.

The polygonal shape of cells in proliferating epithelia is a result of the tensile forces of the cytoskeletal cortex and packing geometry set by the cell cycle. In the larval Drosophila epidermis, two cell populations, histoblasts and larval epithelial cells, compete for space as they grow on a limited body surface. They do so in the absence of cell divisions. We report a striking morphological transition of histoblasts during larval development, where they change from a tensed network configuration with straight cell outlines at the level of adherens junctions to a highly folded morphology. The apical surface of histoblasts shrinks while their growing adherens junctions fold, forming deep lobules. Volume increase of growing histoblasts is accommodated basally, compensating for the shrinking apical area. The folded geometry of apical junctions resembles elastic buckling, and we show that the imbalance between the shrinkage of the apical domain of histoblasts and the continuous growth of junctions triggers buckling. Our model is supported by laser dissections and optical tweezer experiments together with computer simulations. Our analysis pinpoints the ability of histoblasts to store mechanical energy to a much greater extent than most other epithelial cell types investigated so far, while retaining the ability to dissipate stress on the hours time scale. Finally, we propose a possible mechanism for size regulation of histoblast apical size through the lateral pressure of the epidermis, driven by the growth of cells on a limited surface. Buckling effectively compacts histoblasts at their apical plane and may serve to avoid physical harm to these adult epidermis precursors during larval life. Our work indicates that in growing nondividing cells, compressive forces, instead of tension, may drive cell morphology.

Poly-l-lactic acid microspheres delay aging of epidermal stem cells in rat skin.

Objective: Injectable skin fillers offer a wider range of options for cutaneous anti-aging and facial rejuvenation. PLLA microspheres are increasingly favored as degradable and long-lasting fillers. The present study focused solely on the effect of PLLA on dermal collagen, without investigating its impact on the epidermis. In this study, we investigated the effects of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs). Methods: Different concentrations of PLLA microspheres on epidermal stem cells (EpiSCs) in vitro through culture, and identification of primary rat EpiSCs. CCK-8 detection, apoptosis staining, flow cytometry, Transwell assay, wound healing assay, q-PCR analysis, and immunofluorescence staining were used to detect the effects of PLLA on EpiSCs. Furthermore, we observed the effect on the epidermis by injecting PLLA into the dermis of the rat skin in vivo. Results: PLLA microspheres promote cell proliferation and migration while delaying cell senescence and maintaining its stemness. In vitro, Intradermal injection of PLLA microspheres in the rat back skin resulted in delayed aging, as evidenced by histological and immunohistochemical staining of the skin at 2, 4, and 12 weeks of follow-up. Conclusion: This study showed the positive effects of PLLA on rat epidermis and EpiSCs, while providing novel insights into the anti-aging mechanism of PLLA.

Identification of Yellow Advanced Glycation End Products in Human Skin.

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores "(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one" (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

Characterization of Skin Interfollicular Stem Cells and Early Transit Amplifying Cells during the Transition from Infants to Young Children.

In the interfollicular epidermis, keratinocyte stem cells (KSC) generate a short-lived population of transit amplifying (TA) cells that undergo terminal differentiation after several cell divisions. Recently, we isolated and characterized a highly proliferative keratinocyte cell population, named "early" TA (ETA) cell, representing the first KSC progenitor with exclusive features. This work aims to evaluate epidermis, with a focus on KSC and ETA cells, during transition from infancy to childhood. Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) generated from infant keratinocytes is more damaged by UV irradiation, as compared to RHE from young children. Moreover, the expression of several differentiation and barrier genes increases with age, while the expression of genes related to stemness is reduced from infancy to childhood. The proliferation rate of KSC and ETA cells is higher in cells derived from infants' skin samples than of those derived from young children, as well as the capacity of forming colonies is more pronounced in KSC derived from infants than from young children's skin samples. Finally, infants-KSC show the greatest regenerative capacity in skin equivalents, while young children ETA cells express higher levels of differentiation markers, as compared to infants-ETA. KSC and ETA cells undergo substantial changes during transition from infancy to childhood. The study presents a novel insight into pediatric skin, and sheds light on the correlation between age and structural maturation of the skin.

Nuclear receptors for epidermal lipid barrier: Advances in mechanisms and applications.

The skin plays an essential role in preventing the entry of external environmental threats and the loss of internal substances, depending on the epidermal permeability barrier. Nuclear receptors (NRs), present in various tissues and organs including full-thickness skin, have been demonstrated to exert significant effects on the epidermal lipid barrier. Formation of the lipid lamellar membrane and the normal proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes (KCs) are crucial for the development of the epidermal permeability barrier and is regulated by specific NRs such as PPAR, LXR, VDR, RAR/RXR, AHR, PXR and FXR. These receptors play a key role in regulating KC differentiation and the entire process of epidermal lipid synthesis, processing and secretion. Lipids derived from sebaceous glands are influenced by NRs as well and participate in regulation of the epidermal lipid barrier. Furthermore, intricate interplay exists between these receptors. Disturbance of barrier function leads to a range of diseases, including psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and acne. Targeting these NRs with agonists or antagonists modulate pathways involved in lipid synthesis and cell differentiation, suggesting potential therapeutic approaches for dermatosis associated with barrier damage. This review focuses on the regulatory role of NRs in the maintenance and processing of the epidermal lipid barrier through their effects on skin lipid synthesis and KC differentiation, providing novel insights for drug targets to facilitate precision medicine strategies.

Energy competition remodels the metabolic glucose landscape of psoriatic epidermal cells.

Rationale: Skin cells actively metabolize nutrients to ensure cell proliferation and differentiation. Psoriasis is an immune-disorder-related skin disease with hyperproliferation in epidermal keratinocytes and is increasingly recognized to be associated with metabolic disturbance. However, the metabolic adaptations and underlying mechanisms of epidermal hyperproliferation in psoriatic skin remain largely unknown. Here, we explored the role of metabolic competition in epidermal cell proliferation and differentiation in psoriatic skin. Methods: Bulk- and single-cell RNA-sequencing, spatial transcriptomics, and glucose uptake experiments were used to analyze the metabolic differences in epidermal cells in psoriasis. Functional validation in vivo and in vitro was done using imiquimod-like mouse models and inflammatory organoid models. Results: We observed the highly proliferative basal cells in psoriasis act as the winners of the metabolic competition to uptake glucose from suprabasal cells. Using single-cell metabolic analysis, we found that the "winner cells" promote OXPHOS pathway upregulation by COX7B and lead to increased ROS through glucose metabolism, thereby promoting the hyperproliferation of basal cells in psoriasis. Also, to prevent toxic damage from ROS, basal cells activate the glutathione metabolic pathway to increase their antioxidant capacity to assist in psoriasis progression. We further found that COX7B promotes psoriasis development by modulating the activity of the PPAR signaling pathway by bulk RNA-seq analysis. We also observed glucose starvation and high expression of SLC7A11 that causes suprabasal cell disulfide stress and affects the actin cytoskeleton, leading to immature differentiation of suprabasal cells in psoriatic skin. Conclusion: Our study demonstrates the essential role of cellular metabolic competition for skin tissue homeostasis.

Going Beyond Ceramides in Moisturizers: The Role of Natural Moisturizing Factors.

Xerosis is experienced by almost everyone at some time in their lives and the foundation of management of dry skin (both consumer- and healthcare professional--directed) rests on the use of moisturizers. Given the wide range of available moisturizers, counseling patients about selecting the optimum moisturizer for their individual situation relies on knowledge of ingredients and formulations. Traditionally, the main focus for many moisturizers centered on the core functional and structural role of ceramides within the epidermal barrier.  However, while a key aspect of transepidermal water loss and other skin barrier functions, components other than ceramides are equally essential in increasing moisturization. The skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) are a complex mixture of water-attracting compounds such as amino acids, urea, lactate, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), and electrolytes which play a fundamental role in preserving physiologic function by regulating the water content of the stratum corneum. By facilitating water retention, NMFs contribute significantly to the suppleness, elasticity, normal desquamation, and overall integrity of the skin barrier. Incorporation of NMFs into moisturizers addresses critical deficiencies in the skin's moisture balance that exist in xerotic and atopic skin, and in many skin disorders, mitigating signs and symptoms associated with xerosis and promoting optimal skin health. The biochemical composition of NMFs and the intricate interplay with epidermal homeostasis translate to a central role in moisturizers used for prophylactic and therapeutic management of various dry skin conditions, beyond ceramides alone. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(6):466-471.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8358.

ZNPs reduce epidermal mechanical strain resistance by promoting desmosomal cadherin endocytosis via mTORC1-TFEB-BLOC1S3 axis.

Zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZNPs) are widely used in sunscreens and nanomedicines, and it was recently confirmed that ZNPs can penetrate stratum corneum into deep epidermis. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the impact of ZNPs on epidermis. In this study, ZNPs were applied to mouse skin at a relatively low concentration for one week. As a result, desmosomes in epidermal tissues were depolymerized, epidermal mechanical strain resistance was reduced, and the levels of desmosomal cadherins were decreased in cell membrane lysates and increased in cytoplasmic lysates. This finding suggested that ZNPs promote desmosomal cadherin endocytosis, which causes desmosome depolymerization. In further studies, ZNPs were proved to decrease mammalian target of rapamycin complex 1 (mTORC1) activity, activate transcription factor EB (TFEB), upregulate biogenesis of lysosome-related organelle complex 1 subunit 3 (BLOC1S3) and consequently promote desmosomal cadherin endocytosis. In addition, the key role of mTORC1 in ZNP-induced decrease in mechanical strain resistance was determined both in vitro and in vivo. It can be concluded that ZNPs reduce epidermal mechanical strain resistance by promoting desmosomal cadherin endocytosis via the mTORC1-TFEB-BLOC1S3 axis. This study helps elucidate the biological effects of ZNPs and suggests that ZNPs increase the risk of epidermal fragmentation.

Desmosomes at a glance.

Desmosomes are relatives of ancient cadherin-based junctions, which emerged late in evolution to ensure the structural integrity of vertebrate tissues by coupling the intermediate filament cytoskeleton to cell-cell junctions. Their ability to dynamically counter the contractile forces generated by actin-associated adherens junctions is particularly important in tissues under high mechanical stress, such as the skin and heart. Much more than the simple cellular 'spot welds' depicted in textbooks, desmosomes are in fact dynamic structures that can sense and respond to changes in their mechanical environment and external stressors like ultraviolet light and pathogens. These environmental signals are transmitted intracellularly via desmosome-dependent mechanochemical pathways that drive the physiological processes of morphogenesis and differentiation. This Cell Science at a Glance article and the accompanying poster review desmosome structure and assembly, highlight recent insights into how desmosomes integrate chemical and mechanical signaling in the epidermis, and discuss desmosomes as targets in human disease.

Delta opioid receptor expression correlates to skin ageing and melanin expression in Asian women.

While the evidence for the implication of opioid receptors (OPr) in ageing is growing, there is, to our knowledge, no study focusing directly on changes in vivo cutaneous OPr expression with increasing age. We thus investigated OPr expression in 30 healthy female Asian volunteers in Southern China whose ages range from the early 20s to the early 60s. Excisional biopsies were taken from the sun-exposed extensor area of the lower arm and the photo-protected area of the upper inner arm. The thickness of the epidermal layers, melanin content, as well as expression of mu-opioid receptors (MOPr) and delta-opioid receptors (DOPr) were compared between different age ranges and photo-exposure status. Significant increased epidermal hypertrophy on the extensor surface was observed. There was significant reduction of DOPr in the epidermis with increasing age, independent of photo-ageing. The increase of melanin was significantly correlated with epidermal DOPr expression, not with MOPr expression. DOPr expression could thus serve as a marker for real biological ageing unaffected by chronic photo-exposure. Additionally, DOPr expression was inversely correlated with the deposition of melanin. Based on these results, we hypothesise that regulation of DOPr expression could be used to improve aged skin, including hyperpigmentation.

Impact of fucosyltransferase 1-mediated epidermal blood group antigen H on anti-inflammatory response in atopic dermatitis.

The presence of the blood group H2 antigen on the membrane of red blood cells determines blood type O in individuals and this H2 antigen serves as a precursor to the A and B antigens expressed in blood types A and B, respectively. However, the specific involvement of ABH antigens in skin diseases is unknown. Therefore, we aim to investigate the expression of ABH antigens in skin tissue of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) and MC903-induced AD-like mice. We demonstrated that the expression of ABH antigen is primarily located in the granular and horny layers of the skin in healthy control individuals. However, in patients with AD, the expression of the ABH antigen was absent or diminished in these layers, while the H2 antigen expression increased in the spinous layers of the affected skin lesions. Then, we investigated the biological function of blood group H antigen mediated by fucosyltransferase 1 (Fut1) in the skin, utilizing an AD mouse model induced by MC903 in wild-type (WT) and Fut1-knockout mice. After the application of MC903, Fut1-deficient mice, with no H2 antigen expression on their skin, exhibited more severe clinical signs, increased ear swelling, and elevated serum IgE levels compared with those of WT mice. Additionally, the MC903-induced thickening of both the epidermis and dermis was more pronounced in Fut1-deficient mice than that in WT mice. Furthermore, Fut1-deficient mice showed a significantly higher production of interleukin-4 (IL-4) and IL-6 in skin lesions compared with that of their WT counterparts. The expression of chemokines, particularly Ccl2 and Ccl8, was notably higher in Fut1-deficient mice compared with those of WT mice. The infiltration of CD4+ T cells, eosinophils, and mast cells into the lesional skin was significantly elevated in Fut1-deficient mice compared with that in WT mice. These findings demonstrate the protective role of H2 antigen expression against AD-like inflammation and highlight its potential therapeutic impact on AD through the regulation of blood group antigens.

Longitudinal Correlations between Molecular Compositions of Stratum Corneum and Breast Milk Factors during Infancy: A Prospective Birth Cohort Study.

Breast milk contains numerous factors that are involved in the maturation of the immune system and development of the gut microbiota in infants. These factors include transforming growth factor-ß1 and 2, immunoglobin A, and lactoferrin. Breast milk factors may also affect epidermal differentiation and the stratum corneum (SC) barrier in infants, but no studies examining these associations over time during infancy have been reported. In this single-center exploratory study, we measured the molecular components of the SC using confocal Raman spectroscopy at 0, 1, 2, 6, and 12 months of age in 39 infants born at our hospital. Breast milk factor concentrations from their mothers' breast milk were determined. Correlation coefficients for the two datasets were estimated for each molecular component of the SC and breast milk factor at each age and SC depth. The results showed that breast milk factors and molecular components of the SC during infancy were partly correlated with infant age in months and SC depth, suggesting that breast milk factors influence the maturation of the SC components. These findings may improve understanding of the pathogenesis of skin diseases associated with skin barrier abnormalities.

A transit-amplifying progenitor with biphasic behavior contributes to epidermal renewal.

Transit-amplifying (TA) cells are progenitors that undergo an amplification phase followed by transition into an extinction phase. A long postulated epidermal TA progenitor with biphasic behavior has not yet been experimentally observed in vivo. Here, we identify such a TA population using clonal analysis of Aspm-CreER genetic cell-marking in mice, which uncovers contribution to both homeostasis and injury repair of adult skin. This TA population is more frequently dividing than a Dlx1-CreER-marked long-term self-renewing (e.g. stem cell) population. Newly developed generalized birth-death modeling of long-term lineage tracing data shows that both TA progenitors and stem cells display neutral competition, but only the stem cells display neutral drift. The quantitative evolution of a nascent TA cell and its direct descendants shows that TA progenitors indeed amplify the basal layer before transition and that the homeostatic TA population is mostly in extinction phase. This model will be broadly useful for analyzing progenitors whose behavior changes with their clone age. This work identifies a long-missing class of non-self-renewing biphasic epidermal TA progenitors and has broad implications for understanding tissue renewal mechanisms.

New Skin-Relevant Cell Coculture Model With Stratum Corneum-Like Layer.

Two-dimensional (2D) cell culture is an important tool in the discovery of skin-active agents. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes, more rarely fibroblast-keratinocyte cocultures, are usually used for that purpose, where test compounds are added by mixing with the overlaying growth medium. However, such an approach is suboptimal because it lacks the stratum corneum component. The stratum corneum acts as a selective gatekeeper and opposes the intradermal permeation of many compounds that are bioactive when placed in direct contact with cells. One solution is to use reconstituted epidermis, but this approach is costly and time consuming. Here, a model is proposed, where the simplicity and convenience of the 2D cell culture is combined with the advantage of a hydrophobic barrier reminiscent of the skin horny layer. This model was tested with skin-relevant solvents, as well as with "naked" hydrophilic and encapsulated compounds. Cell viability and collagen stimulation were used as readouts. The results showed that the incorporation of a stratum corneum-substitute barrier on top of a 2D cell culture reduced the cytotoxicity of a common cosmetic solvent, dimethyl isosorbide (DMI), in cell culture and modified the bioactivity of the added actives (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate [MAP] and oligomeric proanthocyanidins [OPCs]/levan biopolymer), which became dependent on their ability to penetrate through a lipidic layer. Taken together, these results indicate a better physiological relevance of this cell culture model in workflows aimed at the discovery and analysis of skin-active compounds than conventional 2D systems.