A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis.

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

L'exposition chronique aux rayons ultraviolets (UV) du soleil accélère le vieillissement cutané, qui provoque un épaississement et un assèchement de la peau et la rend plus lâche. La présence de rides profondes induites par la rupture de la barrière cutanée en constitue l'un des symptômes les plus manifestes. Lors d'études précédentes, nous nous sommes rendu compte que l'extrait de graines de Phaseolus angularis (PASE) inhibait efficacement le vieillissement de la peau en assurant la protection anti­UVB des cellules HaCaT grâce à la suppression des lésions cutanées. Cependant, son efficacité n'a pas été évaluée lors d'essais cliniques à ce jour. L'efficacité de la crème PASE a d'abord été testée sur le modèle de peau artificielle, sur laquelle elle a fait augmenter les taux de filaggrine et assuré une défense contre les lésions cutanées. Sur la base de ces résultats, dans cette étude unicentrique, randomisée et en double aveugle, nous avons étudié l'effet anti­âge de la PASE chez l'humain au niveau des rides proches de l'œil. Pour ces 21 femmes adultes en bonne santé âgées de 30 à 59 ans, une crème PASE a été appliquée sur la zone de rides de l'œil droit et un placebo sur la zone de rides de l'œil gauche deux fois par jour (matin et soir) pendant 12 semaines. La modification des rides profondes et épaisses autour des yeux a été confirmée par une évaluation visuelle, des mesures cutanées et un questionnaire. Il a été découvert que les valeurs de rugosité de surface (R1), de rugosité maximale (R2), de rugosité moyenne (R3), de profondeur de douceur (R4) et de moyenne arithmétique (R5) dans le groupe à l'aide de la crème PASE avaient toutes diminué. En particulier, R1, R4 et R5 ont significativement diminué de 18,1 %, de 18,6 % et de 25,0 %, respectivement. Les patients qui ont appliqué la crème PASE ont également présenté une amélioration de l'hydratation de la peau presque deux fois supérieure à celle du groupe placebo. En outre, aucun participant n'a signalé d'effets secondaires. Notre étude a montré que la crème PASE entraînait des niveaux cliniquement significatifs d'amélioration des rides. En conclusion, comme le PASE est un aliment naturel, sûr et dépourvu d'effets secondaires, elle peut constituer une bonne ressource pour les cosmétiques fonctionnels naturels antirides à l'avenir.

Recent advances in lamellar liquid crystal emulsification methods encapsulating natural active substances for functional cosmetics / 药学学报

Due to the high similarity with the lipid layer between human skin keratinocytes, functional cosmetics with layered liquid crystal structure prepared by liquid crystal emulsification technology encapsulating natural active substances have become a hot research topic in recent years. This type of functional cosmetic often has a fresh and natural skin feel, excellent skin barrier repair function and efficient moisturizing effect, etc., showing great potential in cosmetic application. However, the present research on the application of liquid crystal emulsification technology to functional cosmetics is still in the initial stage, and there are fewer relevant reports with reference values. Based on the mentioned above, this review provides a comprehensive summary of functional cosmetics with layered liquid crystal structures prepared by liquid crystal emulsification technology from the following aspects: the structure of human skin, the composition of lamellar liquid crystal, the advantages of liquid crystal emulsification technology containing natural active substances used in the field of functional cosmetics, the preparation process, main components, influencing factors during the preparation and the market functional cosmetics with lamellar liquid crystal structure. Finally, the prospect of the application of liquid crystal emulsification technology in functional cosmetics is presented, to provide useful references for those engaged in the research of liquid crystal emulsification technology-related functional cosmetics.

Anti-bacterial effects of functional cosmetics containing silver ions (Ag+ ) on problematic toenails in Republic of Korea.

BACKGROUND: Problematic toenails caused by various diseases that are infected by various bacteria are discolored or deformed if left unattended for a long time are gradually increasing in modern society. Accordingly, the present study examines the anti-bacterial effects of LCN products, focused on Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Trichophyton rubrum, which can appear in problematic toenail symptoms. After the treatment, a significant anti-bacterial effect occurring on problematic toenails when a product containing silver ion (Ag+ ) will be analyzed. METHODS: The anti-bacterial activity of LCN functional gel products in anti-fungal and/or anti-bacterial potency was confirmed by the paper disk method against two strains (Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Trichophyton rubum). RESULTS: From July 2019 to October 2019, 30 men and women in their 20s and 50s who needed to manage problematic toenails in Wonju city, Gangwon-do, Republic of Korea, were asked to use LCN products once every two weeks. After 4 months, changes in the managed toenails were observed. Both products showed very good anti-microbial activity against, Trichophyton rubum but a very weak one against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. CONCLUSION: As a result of this study, although there was a difference between individuals, the feet treated with LCN products showed effective anti-bacterial activity against topical anti-bacterial effects.

Current Advances of Nanocarrier Technology-Based Active Cosmetic Ingredients for Beauty Applications.

Nanocarrier technology has been effectively applied to the development of drug delivery systems to overcome the limitations of traditional preparation. Its application has been extended to various pharmaceutical fields from injection preparation to oral preparation and external preparation, and now it has appeared in the field of cosmetics for beauty applications. The widespread influence of nanocarrier in the cosmetics industry is due to the fact that nanocarrier can effectively promote the percutaneous penetration and significantly increase skin retention of active components in functional cosmetics. Meanwhile, nanocarrier can effectively improve the water dispersion of insoluble active cosmetic ingredients, enhance the stability of efficacy components and achieve the codelivery of diverse cosmetics active ingredients. In this review, we summarized the current progress of nanocarrier technology in the functional cosmetics, including the types and the routes of dermal/transdermal drug delivery nanocarriers used in the functional cosmetics, the mechanism of nanocarriers promoting the percutaneous penetration of active cosmetic ingredients, the application and efficacy evaluation of different active cosmetic ingredients in nanocarriers and discussing the potential risks to human. This will provide a useful reference for the further development of nanocarriers in the field of functional cosmetics.

Development of actinobacterial resources for functional cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: Actinobacteria usually produce different functional compounds for various applications. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this research was to develop actinobacterial resources through the isolation and identification of soil bacteria with antibacterial and enzyme inhibitory activities for cosmetics application. METHODS: Soil bacteria were isolated and tested for antibacterial activity against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis using the spotting method. Isolates exhibiting antibacterial activities were assayed for tyrosinase inhibition, elastase inhibition, and free radical scavenging activity. RESULTS: Twelve actinobacterial strains were found to inhibit the growth of P. acnes and S. epidermidis. Among them, ten were from the genus Streptomyces and the other two were from the genera Actinokineospora and Calidifontibacter, and potentially represented novel species. For tyrosinase inhibition activities, when compared with arbutin (IC50 =47.84±0.36 µg mL-1 ), strain T65 had similar activity with an IC50 value of 49.05±3.29 µg mL-1 . For elastase inhibition, strains T65, T811, and R311 had similar activities with IC50 values of 10.78±1.88 µg mL-1 , 10.19±0.82 µg mL-1 , and 10.19±2.1 µg mL-1 , respectively, which had similar inhibitory activity to the IC50 value of the standard oleanolic acid (8.94±1.38 µg mL-1 ). For DPPH radical scavenging activities, two strains, R311 and T327, with IC50 values of 6.11±1.17 µg mL-1 and 5.25±0.93 µg mL-1 , respectively, had slightly lower activities than ascorbic acid (IC50 =4.08±0.03 µg mL-1 ). CONCLUSION: Among twelve strains of actinobacteria, the most effective strains were selected for the inhibition of both P. acnes and S. epidermidis as well as for enzyme activities. Actinobacterial strains isolated in this study could be used to produce active metabolites for cosmetics applications.

Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface.

OBJECTIVE: Cocoa pods are abundant waste materials of cocoa plantation, which are usually discarded onto plantation floors. However, due to poor plantation management, the discarded cocoa pods can create suitable breeding ground for Phytophthora palmivora, which is regarded as the causal agent of the black pod disease. On the other hand, cocoa pods potentially contain antioxidant compounds. Antioxidant compounds are related to the protection of skin from wrinkles and can be used as functional cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, in this study, cocoa pods were extracted and to be used as active ingredients for antiwrinkles. METHODS: The active compounds in cocoa pod extracts (CPE) were screened using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Fibroblast cells were used to determine the effective concentration of CPE to maintain the viability for at least 50% of the cells (EC50 ). The gel was tested by 12 panelists to determine the efficacy of CPE in gel form using Visioscan to reduce skin wrinkles and improve skin condition. RESULTS: CPE was detected to contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin, and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The EC50 value of cocoa pod extracts was used to calculate the amount of CPE to be incorporated into gel so that the formulated product could reach an effective concentration of extract while being nonintoxicant to the skin cell. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the CPE gel within 3 weeks and significantly improved further (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of the CPE gel application. CONCLUSION: Flavonoid compounds in CPE contributed to the functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The CPE which is nontoxic to skin cells help to reduce wrinkles on skin after 3 weeks of application. CPE can be used as the active ingredients in antiwrinkle products, and prolonged application may result in significant visual changes to the naked eyes.