Efficacy and Tolerance of a Polymeric Surfactant Technology-Based Cleanser for Clinically Diagnosed Sensitive Skin.

BACKGROUND: Cleansing is an important hygiene activity, necessary to prevent bacterial, fungal, yeast, and viral infection. However, in the presence of skin disease, cleansing can take on a new challenge: removing the sebum, sweat, externally applied substances, environmental debris, and organisms from the face without damaging the skin barrier. Since cleansers cannot easily distinguish between sebum and the intercellular lipids required to maintain skin integrity, unique cleansing technologies are necessary to provide mild cleansing for the many manifestations of sensitive skin. OBJECTIVE: This 4-week clinical study aimed to evaluate the appropriateness of a cosmetic facial foaming gel cleanser with a polymeric surfactant technology in a diverse sensitive skin population. METHOD: 85 subjects with sensitive skin due to eczema/atopic dermatitis, rosacea, acne, or cosmetic intolerance syndrome were evaluated via investigator grading, self-assessment questionnaire, noninvasive measurements, and digital photography. RESULTS: The foaming gel cleanser was well tolerated showing no significant increases in investigator-graded irritation endpoints. Sensitive skin subjects saw considerable reduction (P<0.05) in stinging, itching, burning, tightness, and overall sensitivity at 2 and 4 weeks. Improvements in smoothness, softness, clarity, radiance, and overall skin appearance, were observed by both the investigator and patients (P<0.05) at 2 and 4 weeks. CONCLUSION: The polymeric surfactant technology-based foaming gel cleanser provided a rich, foaming lather that felt gentle and left skin feeling comfortable. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(10):889-893. doi:10.36849/JDD.8510.

A Novel Protection and Repair Skincare Regimen Shows Efficacy for Improving Environmental Skin Aging.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is accelerated by environmental exposures including solar radiation and pollutants. Thus, protecting skin from environmental exposure and repairing ensuing damage is essential for keeping skin healthy and appearing youthful. PURPOSE: To evaluate the clinical benefits of a novel skincare regimen designed to provide comprehensive environmental protection in the daytime and repair environmentally damaged skin at night. METHODS: Thirty participants, including males and females, with mild-to-moderate extrinsic aging, were enrolled in a 12-week single-site study. Participants used the regimen (The Essential Six, RATIONALE, Victoria, Australia) comprised of 3 products to protect the skin in the morning and 3 products to repair the skin at night. Participants were seen at baseline and evaluated for efficacy and tolerability at weeks 2, 6, and 12. Non-invasive measurements to evaluate hydration, transepidermal water loss, skin tone, and elasticity were conducted. RESULTS: The dermatologist investigator noted across-the-board improvement in all evaluated parameters, except deep wrinkles. By week 12, there were statistically significant (P<0.001) improvements in radiance (43%), tactile roughness (48%), visual roughness (44%), firmness (32%), clarity/even skin tone (21%), and overall appearance (29%). Fine lines improved 16% at week 12 (P=0.002). Participant self-assessment revealed statistically significant and progressive improvement in all evaluated parameters over time. No tolerability issues were identified by the investigator, while a small number of participants reported mild stinging and some dryness that resolved over time. This was likely due to the high concentration of active ingredients found in this regimen. Corneometry revealed improved skin hydration of 28% as early as week 2. CONCLUSION: The data presented confirms that this novel protection and repair regimen improves the appearance of environmentally aged skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(10):866-872. doi:10.36849/JDD.8274.

Cold atmospheric plasma (CAP): a revolutionary approach in dermatology and skincare.

Cold atmospheric plasma (CAP) technology has emerged as a revolutionary therapeutic technology in dermatology, recognized for its safety, effectiveness, and minimal side effects. CAP demonstrates substantial antimicrobial properties against bacteria, viruses, and fungi, promotes tissue proliferation and wound healing, and inhibits the growth and migration of tumor cells. This paper explores the versatile applications of CAP in dermatology, skin health, and skincare. It provides an in-depth analysis of plasma technology, medical plasma applications, and CAP. The review covers the classification of CAP, its direct and indirect applications, and the penetration and mechanisms of action of its active components in the skin. Briefly introduce CAP's suppressive effects on microbial infections, detailing its impact on infectious skin diseases and its specific effects on bacteria, fungi, viruses, and parasites. It also highlights CAP's role in promoting tissue proliferation and wound healing and its effectiveness in treating inflammatory skin diseases such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and vitiligo. Additionally, the review examines CAP's potential in suppressing tumor cell proliferation and migration and its applications in cosmetic and skincare treatments. The therapeutic potential of CAP in treating immune-mediated skin diseases is also discussed. CAP presents significant promise as a dermatological treatment, offering a safe and effective approach for various skin conditions. Its ability to operate at room temperature and its broad spectrum of applications make it a valuable tool in dermatology. Finally, introduce further research is required to fully elucidate its mechanisms, optimize its use, and expand its clinical applications.

Impact of Skin Care Products on Phthalates and Phthalate Replacements in Children: the ECHO-FGS.

BACKGROUND: Phthalates and their replacements have been implicated as developmental toxicants. Young children may be exposed to phthalates/replacements when using skin care products (SCPs). OBJECTIVES: Our objective is to assess the associations between use of SCPs and children's urinary phthalate/replacement metabolite concentrations. METHODS: Children (4-8 years old) from the Environmental Influences on Child Health Outcomes-Fetal Growth Study (ECHO-FGS) cohort provided spot urine samples from 2017 to 2019, and mothers were queried about children's SCP use in the past 24 h (n=906). Concentrations of 16 urinary phthalate/replacement metabolites were determined by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (n=630). We used linear regression to estimate the child's use of different SCPs as individual predictors of urinary phthalate/replacement metabolites, adjusted for urinary specific gravity, age, sex assigned at birth, body mass index, and self-reported race/ethnic identity, as well as maternal education, and season of specimen collection. We created self-organizing maps (SOM) to group children into "exposure profiles" that reflect discovered patterns of use for multiple SCPs. RESULTS: Children had lotions applied (43.0%) frequently, but "2-in-1" hair-care products (7.5%), sunscreens (5.9%), and oils (4.3%) infrequently. Use of lotions was associated with 1.17-fold [95% confidence interval (CI): 1.00, 1.34] greater mono-benzyl phthalate and oils with 2.86-fold (95% CI: 1.89, 4.31) greater monoethyl phthalate (MEP), 1.43-fold (95% CI: 1.09, 1.90) greater monobutyl phthalate (MBP), and 1.40-fold (95% CI: 1.22, 1.61) greater low-molecular-weight phthalates (LMW). Use of 2-in-1 haircare products was associated with 0.84-fold (95% CI: 0.72, 0.97) and 0.78-fold (95% CI: 0.62, 0.98) lesser mono(3-carboxypropyl) phthalate (MCPP) and MBP, respectively. Child's race/ethnic identity modified the associations of lotions with LMW, oils with MEP and LMW, sunscreen with MCPP, ointments with MEP, and hair conditioner with MCPP. SOM identified four distinct SCP-use exposure scenarios (i.e., profiles) within our population that predicted 1.09-fold (95% CI: 1.03, 1.15) greater mono-carboxy isononyl phthalate, 1.31-fold (95% CI: 0.98, 1.77) greater mono-2-ethyl-5-hydroxyhexyl terephthalate, 1.13-fold (95% CI: 0.99, 1.29) greater monoethylhexyl phthalate, and 1.04-fold (95% CI: 1.00, 1.09) greater diethylhexyl phthalate. DISCUSSION: We found that reported SCP use was associated with urinary phthalate/replacement metabolites in young children. These results may inform policymakers, clinicians, and parents to help limit children's exposure to developmental toxicants. https://doi.org/10.1289/EHP13937.

NECASA I: A Practical Algorithm Integrating Skincare in the Management of Acne Patients in the Nordic European Countries.

BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris is a multifactorial dermatosis primary of the face and trunk. Erythema, pruritus, and xerosis are frequent adverse effects of first-line acne treatment and, if not appropriately counseled and managed, can exacerbate, leading to regimen nonadherence and poor outcomes. METHODS: A panel of 6 dermatologists (five from the Nordic European Countries and one from the UK) employed a modified Delphi method and reached a consensus on a practical acne treatment and maintenance algorithm integrating skincare based on the best available evidence, and the panels' clinical experience, and opinions. RESULTS: The Nordic European Countries Acne Skincare Algorithm (NECASA) recommends integrating skincare and nonprescription acne treatment into acne regimens, addressing the relative lack of standardized guidance on their use as mono or adjunctives to acne treatment. The algorithm uses stratification by acne subtype and discusses management approaches per type of acne (comedonal, papulopustular, and nodulocystic acne), severity (mild to moderate and severe), and maintenance treatment. Skincare monotherapy may reduce acne lesions and maintain clearance in patients with mild acne. Adjunctive skincare may enhance the efficacy and improve tolerability of acne treatment, reduce pigmentary alterations, and improve skin barrier function. CONCLUSIONS: The NECASA algorithm may serve as a roadmap for integrating skincare in managing acne patients and tailoring acne treatment to improve adherence and tolerance to treatment and patient outcomes. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(9):782-788. doi:10.36849/JDD.8472.

Molecular farming expression of recombinant fusion proteins applied to skincare strategies.

This review discusses the current research progress in molecular farming technology in the field of skincare, with an emphasis on molecular farming expression strategies. The strategies of transdermal drug delivery and their advantages are also highlighted. The expression of cosmetically relevant fused proteins has become an important way to enhance the efficacy of the proteins. Therefore, we also discuss the feasibility and strategies for expressing fusion proteins in A. thaliana, specifically the fusion of Epidermal growth factor (EGF) to a cell-penetrating peptide (CPP), in which the production can be greatly enhanced via plant expression systems since these systems offer higher biosecurity, flexibility, and expansibility than prokaryotic, animal and mammalian expression systems. While the fusion of EGF to CCP can enhance its transdermal ability, the effects of the fusion protein on skin repair, melasma, whitening, and anti-aging are poorly explored. Beyond this, fusing proteins with transdermal peptides presents multiple possibilities for the development of tissue repair and regeneration therapeutics, as well as cosmetics and beauty products. As certain plant extracts are known to contain proteins beneficial for skin health, the expression of these proteins in plant systems will better maintain their integrity and biological activities, thereby facilitating the development of more effective skincare products.

Food-derived skin-care ingredient as a promising strategy for skin aging: Current knowledge and future perspectives.

Skin aging involves complex biochemical reactions and has attracted a growing concern recently. For it, there is a great desire to replace the hazardous and easy-recurring "therapy means" with "daily care" based on some natural and healthy ingredients. According to a novel theory called "homology of cosmetic and food", the safety, efficacy and accessibility of food-derived skin-care ingredients offer an attractive option for combating skin aging, which will be an inevitable trend of dermatology in the future. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major trigger of skin aging. It acts on the skin and generates reactive oxygen species, which causing oxidative stress. More, matrix metalloproteinase and melanin levels are also upregulated by the UV-activated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and tyrosinase, respectively, resulting in collagen degradation and melanin deposition in the extracellular matrix. Through the existing studies, the relevant key biomarkers and biochemical pathways can be effectively controlled by skin-care ingredients from animal-derived and plant-derived foods as well as traditional herbs, thus preserving human skin from UV-induced aging in terms of antioxidant, collagen protection and melanin inhibition. To extend their application potential, some carriers represented by nanoliposomes can facilitate the transdermal absorption of food-derived skin-care ingredients by the variation of molecular weight and lipid solubility. The present review will provide an overview of the trigger mechanisms of skin aging, and focus on the molecular biology aspects of food-derived skin-care ingredients in skin matrix and the critical summarize of their research state.

Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care.

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves multiple functions such as barrier protection and thermoregulation. The maintenance of its integrity and healthy structure is of paramount importance. Accordingly, technological advances in cosmetic sciences have been directed towards optimizing these factors. Plant-derived ingredients have been explored for their bioactivity profiles and sustainable sources. Grape by-products contain a group of bioactive molecules that display important biological activities. Nonetheless, many of these molecules (e.g., phenolic compounds) are unstable and susceptible to degradation. So, their encapsulation using nano/microsystems (i.e., microdispersions) has been explored as a promising solution. In this work, two grape seed extracts were obtained, one from a single grape variety (GSE-Ov) and another from a mix of five grape varieties (GSE-Sv). These extracts were analysed for their antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as their chemical composition and molecular structure. The extract that showed the most promising properties was GSE-Ov with a DPPH IC50 of 0.079 mg mL-1. This extract was encapsulated in soy lecithin microdispersions coated with pectin, with an encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%. They showed an in vitro release of polyphenols of 59.4% during 24 h. The particles displayed a zeta potential of -20.3 mV and an average diameter of 13.6 µm. Microdispersions proved to be safe under 5 and 2.5 mg mL-1 in HaCaT and HDF cell models, respectively. Additionally, they demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity against IL-1α when tested at 2 mg mL-1. This work enabled the valorisation of a by-product from the wine industry by using natural extracts in skincare products.

Biologically Active Sheep Colostrum for Topical Treatment and Skin Care.

Colostrum is gaining popularity in cosmetic products. The present study compared the composition and selected biological properties of colostrum from Polish sheep (colostrum 1) and Swiss sheep (colostrum 2), particularly those that can affect healthy or diseased skin. The antioxidant activity of the colostrums was measured using ABTS and DPPH assays. The effect on the proliferation of human skin fibroblasts, neonatal epidermal keratinocytes, and human diabetic fibroblast (dHF) cells isolated from diabetic foot ulcers was also assayed in vitro by MTT and Presto Blue tests, respectively. The colostrum simulated dHF cell proliferation by up to 115.4%. The highest used concentration of colostrum 1 stimulated normal fibroblast proliferation by 191.2% (24 h) and 222.2% (48 h). Both colostrums inhibited epidermal keratinocyte viability. The influence of the colostrums on the expression of genes related to proliferation (Ki67) and immune response (IL-6, PTGS-2, TSG-6) in dHF cells were compared. Colostrum 1 increased the rate of wound closure (scar test). Analysis of total fat, protein and fatty acid content found the Polish colostrum to be a richer source of fat than the Swiss colostrum, which contained a larger amount of protein. Both colostrums exhibit properties that suggest they could be effective components in cosmetic or medicinal formulations for skin care, especially supporting its regeneration, rejuvenation, and wound healing.

Challenges in Adult Acne and the Role of Skin Care in Managing the Condition.

BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris is a complex, multifactorial, inflammatory skin condition. Although frequently presented at dermatology clinics, the literature on adult acne is scarce, particularly concerning skin barrier function and management. We aimed to provide insights into the role of skin barrier integrity in adult acne patients and the role of cleansers and moisturizers as adjunctive to treating and maintaining adult acne.   Methods: A panel of eight dermatologists who treat adult patients with acne developed a consensus paper on the role of skin barrier function and skin care in adult acne management. The modified Delphi method comprised a face-to-face meeting and online follow-up to discuss the results of a scoping literature review. Drawing from their experience and opinions, they agreed on seven consensus statements.   Results: Epidermal barrier dysfunction plays a vital role in acne pathogenesis and asymmetrically impacts adult female acne. Erythema, pruritus, peeling, and xerosis are common adverse effects of first-line acne treatment options and, if not appropriately counseled and managed, can exacerbate, leading to regimen nonadherence and poor patient experience and outcomes. CONCLUSION: Improving patient knowledge of comprehensive acne treatments, including quality adjunctive cleansers and moisturizers, may maximize regimen efficacy and provide patients with personalized and successful acne treatment and maintenance tools. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(8):674-679.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8471.

INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: Skincare in Skin of Color: A Comprehensive Approach to Preprocedure, Intraprocedure, and Postprocedure.

Hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, textural changes, and dull skin are common cosmetic concerns in skin of color. Other signs of aging, including fine lines, deeper wrinkles, and skin laxity, also occur but may present in later decades. In-office procedures such as laser treatments, energy devices, toxins, fillers, and chemical peels are useful options for addressing the most common cosmetic concerns in skin of color patients. Skincare can play an important role in improving cosmetic outcomes when used in conjunction with in-office procedures. With the availability of these approaches, clinicians can now integrate in-office procedures with skincare strategies to offer patients with skin of color a comprehensive treatment plan that meets their needs. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23:8(Suppl 1):s5-10.

INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: NECOM 4: Algorithm Integrating Skincare for the Management of Immunotherapy-Related Cutaneous Adverse Events for Cancer Patients and Survivors.

BACKGROUND: In the Nordic European Countries, cancer is the leading cause of death. The last decade has brought revolutionizing cancer treatments including immune checkpoint inhibitors (ICIs). Patients on ICIs have a high risk of developing cutaneous immune-related adverse events. Treating these side effects is of high importance to improve patient's quality of life (QoL) and continue the anti-cancer treatment. METHODS: The Nordic European Cutaneous Oncodermatology Management (NECOM) project develops tools to prevent and treat cancer therapy-related cutaneous adverse events (cAEs). The first 2 NECOM papers presented various cAEs and skincare regimens involving hygiene, moisturization, sun protection, and camouflage products for preventing and managing cAEs. The NECOM 3 practical algorithm was on the prevention and treatment of acute radiation dermatitis. This NECOM 4 practical algorithm is intended to prevent and manage cutaneous immunotherapy-related adverse events (cirAEs), improving cancer patients' QoL and outcomes. RESULTS: The NECOM advisors discussed the results of a systematic literature review and obtained consensus on the evidence and expert opinion-based practical algorithm for cirAEs to support all healthcare providers treating cancer patients in the Nordic European Countries. The algorithm starts with a simple skincare regimen of cleansing, moisturizing, and protection, followed by the exclusion of severe cutaneous adverse reactions, and then specific interventions to treat the most common cirAEs (pruritus, maculopapular eruption, eczematous eruption, psoriasis, lichenoid eruption, and bullous eruption). CONCLUSIONS: CirAEs are the most common side effects induced by ICIs and may lead to cancer treatment interruption or even discontinuation. Patient education on the prevention of cirAEs using a skincare regimen and treatment recommendations given in the NECOM 4 algorithm may help prevent and manage cirAEs and improve the QoL and outcome of patients receiving ICIs. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23:8(Suppl 2):s4-10.

Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling.

BACKGROUND: Skincare and makeup "pilling" is an unsightly and undesirable phenomenon whereby skincare such as moisturizers or foundation ball up to form flakes on the skin. To date, the causes of skincare product pilling have not been studied. This study aimed to examine the relationship between skin physiology and pilling potential of sunscreen and foundation (the two products most reported by consumers to cause pilling). This study also examined the effects of product application methods on pilling. MATERIALS AND METHODS: 528 female volunteers from Guangzhou, China, aged between 20 and 49 years, underwent various clinical skin assessments, followed by three steps of product layering. Pilling was assessed after each product application step. RESULTS: 217 volunteers (41%) experienced pilling. The majority of pilling (n = 655 events) occurred following sunscreen application, while only a few pilling events (n = 35) occurred with foundation. Foundation improved pilling caused by sunscreen in 98.9% of cases. Volunteers experiencing pilling with both sunscreen and foundation had significantly lower facial skin hydration and oiliness, higher pH, and smoother skin texture (P < 0.05). Two application methods, rubbing of products in circular and linear motions, yielded the highest numbers of pilling events. CONCLUSION: This study has provided the first insights into the causes of pilling. Sunscreen is a promoter of pilling, while foundation may resolve sunscreen-induced pilling in many cases. Skin physiology, particularly drier, smoother skin with higher pH, and product application methods are likely contributing factors to this undesirable phenomenon.

In vitro efficacy of Rosa damascena solid state fermentation liquid and water extract on skin care.

BACKGROUND: As a medicinal and food homologous plant, Rosa damascena is not only highly ornamental, but also rich in a variety of active ingredients such as polyphenols and flavonoids. It is widely used in cosmetics, food and pharmaceutical industries. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Rosa damascena solid state fermentation liquid (RDF) and water extract (RDE). METHODS: Firstly, the effect of RDF and RDE on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was detected by CCK-8 method, and the melanin content was measured by sodium hydroxide lysis method to evaluate the whitening effect of them. Finally, the antioxidant, anti-wrinkling and soothing effects of RDF and RDE were evaluated by biochemical methods in vitro. RESULTS: RDF and RDE within a certain concentration range (0.05%-0.5%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Compared with Rosa damascena extract (RDE), RDF showed significant effects on bleaching, antioxidant, anti-wrinkling and soothing, among which 0.5% RDF showed the best effect. CONCLUSION: Both RDF and RDE at a certain concentration have effect on skin care in vitro, but the effect of RDF is more significant than that of RDE.

The role of ceramides in skin barrier function and the importance of their correct formulation for skincare applications.

Ceramides are a family of lipids constituted by a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. In the skin, they are mainly present in the stratum corneum where, with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they constitute the inter-corneocyte lipids. With the other lipid groups, they play a key role in the formation of dense lamellar structures between adjacent corneocytes, collectively ensuring the vital efficient barrier to water evaporation and protection from foreign agents´ penetration. Changes in ceramide level and relative composition, with potential impairment of lipid arrangement, have been evidenced in different skin conditions and skin diseases. Therefore, use of suitably formulated ceramides has been proposed for topical treatment to help re-structure damaged lipid arrangement and repair impaired skin barrier function. Nonetheless, the formulation of ceramides in products necessitates specific processes such as heating to high temperature before their introduction in the final formula. In this review on the structure, the role and the potential of ceramides for skincare, we point out the necessity of rigorous process when formulating ceramides into the final product. We demonstrate the counterproductive effects of undissolved ceramides on skin barrier repair capacity of the formulas, when assessed in different in vitro models of disrupted skin barrier.

Les céramides sont une famille de lipides constituée d'une base sphingoïde et d'un acide gras. Dans la peau, ils sont principalement présents dans la couche cornée où, avec le cholestérol et les acides gras libres, ils constituent les lipides inter­cornéocytes. Avec les autres groupes de lipides, ils jouent un rôle clé dans la formation de structures lamellaires denses entre les cornéocytes adjacents, assurant collectivement la barrière efficace vitale contre l'évaporation de l'eau et la protection contre la pénétration des agents étrangers. Des modifications du taux de céramides et de la composition relative, avec une altération potentielle de l'arrangement lipidique, ont été observées dans différentes affections cutanées et maladies cutanées. Par conséquent, l'utilisation de céramides formulés de manière appropriée a été proposée pour un traitement topique afin d'aider à restructurer la disposition des lipides endommagés et à réparer la fonction de barrière cutanée altérée. Néanmoins, la formulation des céramides dans les produits nécessite des processus spécifiques tels que le chauffage à température élevée avant leur introduction dans la formule finale. Dans cette revue sur la structure, le rôle et le potentiel des céramides pour les soins de la peau, nous soulignons la nécessité d'un processus rigoureux lors de la formulation des céramides dans le produit final. Nous démontrons les effets contre­productifs des céramides non dissous sur la capacité de réparation de la barrière cutanée des formules, lorsqu'ils sont évalués dans différents modèles in vitro de barrière cutanée perturbée.