Proteomic analysis identifies new biomarkers for postmenopausal and dry skin.

A proteomic analysis of stratum corneum (SC) samples of normal healthy skin revealed the presence of more than 70 proteins by 2D electrophoresis. The majority of these proteins to our knowledge have not yet been described in normal SC. We analysed by Western blot the levels of 25 proteins in the SC taken from postmenopausal and dry skin compared with young and normal skin, respectively. In postmenopausal skin, there was a significantly increased amount of heat shock protein 27, plakoglobin and desmoglein 1, whereas transglutaminase 3, apolipoprotein D and acid ceramidase levels were significantly reduced compared with the SC of young skin. We confirmed corneodesmosin as a marker of dry skin. In addition, we showed for the first time that the levels of both phosphatidylethanolamine-binding protein 1 and annexin A2 were significantly increased in the SC of dry skin compared with the SC of normal skin. These results suggest that a proteomic analysis of the SC obtained using a non-invasive varnish stripping method is an attractive alternative to invasive methods to better characterize changes in the physiology of ageing and dry skin.

Cellular adhesion on collagen: a simple method to select human basal keratinocytes which preserves their high growth capacity.

The regenerative capacity of human interfollicular epidermis is closely linked to the potential of immature keratinocytes present within its basal layer. The availability of selection methods and culture systems allowing precise assessment of basal keratinocyte characteristics is critical for increasing our knowledge of this cellular compartment. This report presents a multi-parametric comparative study of basal keratinocytes selected according to two different principles: 1) high adhesion capacity on a type-I collagen-coated substrate [Adh⁺⁺⁺], 2) high cell-surface expression of α6-integrin [Itg-α6 (high)]. Importantly, analysis performed at the single-cell level revealed similar primary clone-forming efficiency values of 45.5% ±â€Š6.7% [Itg-α6(high)] and 43.7% ±â€Š7.4% [Adh⁺⁺⁺], which were markedly higher than those previously reported. In addition, both methods selected keratinocytes exhibiting an extensive long-term growth potential exceeding 100 cell doublings and the capacity for generating a pluristratified epidermis. Our study also included a global transcriptome comparison. Genome-wide profiling indicated a strong similarity between [Adh⁺⁺⁺] and [Itg-α6(high)] keratinocytes, and revealed a common basal-associated transcriptional signature. In summary, cross-analysis of [Adh⁺⁺⁺] and [Itg-α6(high)] keratinocyte characteristics showed that these criteria identified highly equivalent cellular populations, both characterized by unexpectedly high growth capacities. These results may have broad impacts in the tissue engineering and cell therapy fields.

In vitro assessment of eye irritancy using the Reconstructed Human Corneal Epithelial SkinEthic HCE model: application to 435 substances from consumer products industry.

The 7th amendment of the EU Cosmetics Directive led to the ban of eye irritation testing for cosmetic ingredients in animals, effective from March 11th 2009. Over the last 20years, many efforts have been made to find reliable and relevant alternative methods. The SkinEthic HCE model was used to evaluate the in vitro eye irritancy potential of substances from a cosmetic industry portfolio. An optimized protocol based on a specific 1-h treatment and a 16-h post-treatment incubation period was first assessed on a set of 102 substances. The prediction model (PM) based on a 50% viability cut-off, allowed to draw up two classes (Irritants and Non-Irritants), with good associated sensitivity (86.2%) and specificity (83.5%). To check the robustness of the method, the evaluated set was expanded up to 435 substances. Final performances maintained a high level and were characterized by an overall accuracy value > 82% when using EU or GHS classification rules. Results showed that the SkinEthic HCE test method is a promising in vitro tool for the prediction of eye irritancy. Optimization datasets were shared with the COLIPA Eye Irritation Project Team and ECVAM experts, and reviewed as part of an ongoing progression to enter an ECVAM prospective validation study for eye irritation.

Large scale study of epidermal recovery after stratum corneum removal: dynamics of genomic response.

The stratum corneum (SC) is a superficial skin compartment that protects the body from the outside environment. Any disturbance of this function induces cascading steps of molecular and cellular repair in the whole epidermis. The aim of this study was to investigate epidermal gene expression following SC removal by tape stripping. Twenty-nine healthy male volunteers were included (27 +/- 4 years old). Tape stripping was processed on one inner forearm, the other unstripped forearm served as a control. Epidermis samples were collected at 2, 6, 19, 30 and 72 h after tape stripping. Trans-epidermal water loss measurements were performed at each step to monitor barrier restoration. Total RNA was extracted from collected epidermis samples and analysed by using DermArray cDNA microarrays. Among 4000 genes under investigation, we found that the expression of 370 genes varied significantly at least once during the time following stripping. Using an original clustering method, the modulated genes were gathered into eight groups. A functional characterization of the clusters enabled us to get a dynamic and global view of the main molecular processes taking place during epidermal recovery.

Expression profiles of phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in human skin and the reconstructed skin models Episkin and full thickness model from Episkin.

BACKGROUND: Episkin and full thickness model from Episkin (FTM) are human skin models obtained from in vitro growth of keratinocytes into the five typical layers of the epidermis. FTM is a full thickness reconstructed skin model that also contains fibroblasts seeded in a collagen matrix. OBJECTIVES: To assess whether enzymes involved in chemical detoxification are expressed in Episkin and FTM and how their levels compare with the human epidermis, dermis and total skin. METHODS: Quantification of the mRNA expression levels of phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in cultured Episkin and FTM and human epidermis, dermis and total skin using Realtime PCR. RESULTS: The data show that the expression profiles of 61 phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in Episkin, FTM and epidermis are generally similar, with some exceptions. Cytochrome P450-dependent enzymes and flavin monooxygenases are expressed at low levels, while phase 2 metabolizing enzymes are expressed at much higher levels, especially, glutathione-S-transferase P1 (GSTP1) catechol-O-methyl transferase (COMT), steroid sulfotransferase (SULT2B1b), and N-acetyl transferase (NAT5). The present study also identifies the presence of many enzymes involved in cholesterol, arachidonic acid, leukotriene, prostaglandin, eicosatrienoic acids, and vitamin D3 metabolisms. CONCLUSION: The present data strongly suggest that Episkin and FTM represent reliable and valuable in vitro human skin models for studying the function of phases 1 and 2 metabolizing enzymes in xenobiotic metabolisms. They could be used to replace invasive methods or laboratory animals for skin experiments.

Supplementation with oral probiotic bacteria protects human cutaneous immune homeostasis after UV exposure-double blind, randomized, placebo controlled clinical trial.

There is now strong evidence that probiotic bacteria can regulate inflammatory immune responses. Here, we analyzed whether oral supplementation with the probiotic bacterial strain Lactobacillus johnsonii (La1) could interfere with skin immune status following UV exposure. A randomized, double-blind, placebo controlled clinical trial was conducted with 54 healthy volunteers receiving either La1 or placebo, during six weeks prior to solar-simulated UV irradiation. Blister roofs and skin biopsies were recovered 1, 4 and 10 days after UV exposure from un-irradiated and irradiated skin and used for immunohistochemical analysis and mixed epidermal cell lymphocyte reaction (MECLR), respectively. La1 supplementation did not prevent the UV-induced phenotypic maturation of Langerhans cells (LCs) or the decrease in MECLR in irradiated skin samples, one day post-irradiation. On day 4, MECLR was still decreased in the placebo group, with a parallel reduction in the CD1a LC marker in irradiated epidermis. In contrast, the allostimulatory capacity of epidermal cells was totally recovered in the La1 group correlating with the normalization of CD1a expression within the epidermis. For the first time, the results provide evidence that ingested probiotic bacteria accelerate the recovery of skin immune homeostasis after UV-induced immunosuppression.

Changes in serum DHEA and eleven of its metabolites during 12-month percutaneous administration of DHEA.

Healthy postmenopausal women aged 60-65 years (n=150) were randomized to receive twice daily application on the skin of 3g of a 0.3% dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) or placebo emulsion for 12 months. Serum DHEA and eleven of its metabolites were measured at screening and on day 1, as well as at 1, 3, 6, 9 and 12 months to study long-term metabolism. While serum DHEA and androst-5-ene-3beta, 17beta-diol (5-diol) increased by 203% and 178%, respectively, on average, during the 12-month period, the sum of concentrations of the metabolites of androgens, namely androsterone glucuronide (ADT-G), androstane-3alpha,17beta-diol-3G and -17G increased by only 71% while usually non statistically significant changes of 30%, 17% and 20% were observed for estrone (E(1)), estradiol (E(2)) and E(1) sulfate (E(1)-S), respectively. Despite the return of serum DHEA to normal premenopausal values with the present DHEA treatment regimen, the 65% decrease in the androgen pool found in this group of postmenopausal women is in fact corrected by only 24%, thus remaining 41% below the values found in normal premenopausal women. In fact, the changes in serum DHEA observed after percutaneous DHEA administration are a 186% overestimate of the true changes in androgen formation while the overestimate of estrogen production is even much higher. On the other hand, the pharmacokinetics of the steroids are stable over the 12-month period with no significant induction or decrease of activity of the enzymatic systems transforming DHEA predominantly into androgens.

Steroid metabolism and profile of steroidogenic gene expression in Episkin: high similarity with human epidermis.

The skin is a well-recognized site of steroid formation and metabolism. Episkin is a cultured human epidermis. In this report, we investigate whether Episkin possesses a steroidogenic machinery able to metabolize adrenal steroid precursors into active steroids. Episkin was incubated with [14C]-dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and 4-androstenedione (4-dione) and their metabolites were analyzed by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry (LC/MS/MS). The results show that the major product of DHEA metabolism in Episkin is DHEA sulfate (DHEAS) (88% of the metabolites) while the other metabolites are 7alpha-OH-DHEA (8.2%), 4-dione (1.3%), 5-androstenediol (1.3%), dihydrotestosterone (DHT) (1.4%) and androsterone (ADT) (2.3%). When 4-dione is used as substrate, much higher levels of C19-steroids are produced with ADT representing 77% of the metabolites. These data indicate that 5alpha-reductase, 17beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (17beta-HSD) and 3alpha-hydroxysteroid dehdyrogenase (3alpha-HSD) activities are present at moderate levels in Episkin, while 3beta-HSD activity is low and represents a rate-limiting step in the conversion of DHEA into C19-steroids. Using realtime PCR, we have measured the level of mRNAs encoding the steroidogenic enzymes in Episkin. A good agreement is found between the mRNAs expression in Episkin and the metabolic profile. High expression levels of steroid sulfotransferase SULT2B1B and type 3 3alpha-HSD (AKR1C2) correspond to the high levels of DHEA sulfate (DHEAS) and ADT formed from DHEA and 4-dione, respectively. 3beta-HSD is almost undetectable while the other enzymes such as type 1 5alpha-reductase, types 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, and 10 17beta-HSD and 20alpha-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (20alpha-HSD) (AKR1C1) are highly expressed. Except for UGT-glucuronosyl transferase, similar mRNA expression profiles between Episkin and human epidermis are observed.

Metabolism of DHEA in postmenopausal women following percutaneous administration.

The marked decline in serum dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) with age is believed to play a role in health problems associated with aging, these health issues being potentially preventable or reversible by the exogenous administration of DHEA. In the present study, liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry (LC/MS/MS) and gas chromatrography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS) were used to measure the serum levels of DHEA and 11 of its metabolites in seventy-five 60-65-year-old Caucasian women who received 3g of 0.1%, 0.3%, 1.0% or 2.0% DHEA cream or placebo applied twice daily on the face, upper chest, arms and legs. The serum levels of DHEA increased 574% over control at the 2.0% DHEA dose while the sum of the androgen metabolites androsterone glucuronide (ADT-G), 3alpha-androstenediol-3G (3alpha-diol-3G) and 3alpha-diol-17G increased by only 231%. On the other hand, serum testosterone and dihydrosterone were increased by 192% and 275%, respectively, above basal levels compared to 139% and 158% for estrone and estradiol. Such data show that the transformation of exogenous DHEA in postmenopausal women is preferentially into androgens rather than into estrogens. On the other hand, the present data indicate that serum DHEA measurements following DHEA supplementation in postmenopausal women are an overestimate of the formation of active androgens and estrogens and suggest a decreased efficiency of transformation of DHEA into androgens and estrogens with aging.

Androgen glucuronides, instead of testosterone, as the new markers of androgenic activity in women.

Despite the long series of cohort studies performed during the last 20 years, the correlation between serum testosterone and any clinical situation believed to be under androgen control in women has remained elusive. This is likely related to the recent finding that the androgens made locally in large amounts in peripheral tissues from the precursor dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) act in the same cells where synthesis takes place and are not released in significant amounts in the circulation, thus making unreliable the measurement of serum testosterone as marker of total androgenic activity. The objective is to determine if serum androgen glucuronides can be replaced by testosterone or another steroid as measure of androgenic activity. Since the glucuronide derivatives of androgens are the obligatory route of elimination of all androgens, these metabolites were measured by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry under basal conditions in 377 healthy postmenopausal women aged 55-65 years as well as in 47 premenopausal women aged 30-35 years while testosterone was assayed by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. No correlation was found between the serum concentration of testosterone and that of androsterone glucuronide (ADT-G) or androstenediol glucuronide (3alpha-diol-G), the androgen metabolites which account for the total pool of androgens. The present data show that measurement of the total pool of androgens reflected by the serum levels of ADT-G and 3alpha-diol-G cannot be replaced by serum testosterone or any other steroid, including DHEA or DHEA sulphate. These findings may have implications for women with androgen deficiency involving osteoporosis, obesity, type 2 diabetes, sexual dysfunction, loss of muscular strength and a series of other clinical situations affecting women's health. Measuring ADT-G and 3alpha-diol-G might identify cases of true androgen deficiency and provide an opportunity to offer appropriate androgen therapy.

Under the skin: Biotransformation of para-aminophenol and para-phenylenediamine in reconstructed human epidermis and human hepatocytes.

We investigated the biotransformation of the oxidative arylamine (AA) hair dye ingredients [14C]-para-aminophenol (PAP) and [14C]-para-phenylenediamine (PPD) in reconstructed human epidermis and human hepatocytes. Human epidermis quantitatively transformed PAP to its N-acetylated derivative (APAP), whereas hepatocytes transformed PAP to sulfate or glucuronic acid conjugates of APAP or PAP as well as free APAP. Epidermis and hepatocytes converted PPD to N-mono- (MAPPD) and N,N'-di-acetylated (DAPPD) derivatives. At higher concentrations of PPD (250-1000 microM), epidermis or hepatocytes produced more of the MAPPD, whereas concentrations below 250 microM and lower favoured formation of the DAPPD metabolite. When compared with epidermis, human hepatocytes had a three-fold or eight-fold greater capacity for generation of MAPPD or DAPPD, respectively. No evidence of transformation of PAP or PPD to N-hydroxylated derivatives was found in epidermis or hepatocytes. Our results suggest that (i) after dermal absorption of PAP or PPD, humans are systemically exposed to acetylated derivatives; (ii) current in vitro skin absorption studies may be inadapated for determination of human systemic exposure to AAs due to reduced or absent metabolic capacity of non-viable skin; (iii) due to qualitative differences between dermal and hepatic metabolism, oral toxicity studies may be unsuited for the hazard assessment of dermal exposure to AAs; and (iv) use of induced rodent liver S9 metabolic activation systems for in vitro genotoxicity studies may produce misleading results on the hazard of human dermal exposure to AAs. In conclusion, our data support the growing evidence that AAs are transformed in human skin and suggest that current practices of safety assessment of AAs should take these findings into account.

Modulation of gene expression induced in human epidermis by environmental stress in vivo.

Environmental insults on the skin induce biologic responses through the modulation of expression of genes implicated in different cell functions. The aim of this study was to investigate the modulation of gene expression profile in human epidermis in vivo following different stresses. We determined the modulations of gene expression using cDNA macroarray in the epidermis of 28 healthy volunteers, following mild and physiologic insults, including: (1), tape stripping; (2) application of 10% sodium dodecyl sulfate; (3) daily application of vaseline; and (4), exposure to one minimal erythema dose of solar-simulated radiation. The analysis was performed 19 h after treatment. The reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction method was used to confirm our results. We showed that: (1) the intensity of gene modulation was variable among the volunteers following the same skin stress; (2) the nature and intensity of skin treatment modified the pattern of gene expression; and (3) some genes were modulated only by specific stress, some others are modulated irrespective of the stress. GADD45, Bax, SAS, and granulocyte chemotactic protein-2 were overexpressed exclusively following solar-simulated radiation, whereas tape stripping led to the modulation of genes implicated in different pathways (inflammation, cell proliferation, cell differentiation, detoxification, etc.). Concerning common gene modulation, MRP8 and MRP14 were highly upregulated in human skin epidermis after solar-simulated radiation, vaseline application or tape stripping, and to a lower extent after sodium dodecyl sulfate. Such upregulation of the MRP 8/14 genes was confirmed at the protein level in an ex-vivo skin culture model following tape stripping and solar-simulated radiation. Together, these results suggest that MRP8 and MRP14 may be general, yet highly sensitive, markers for a great variety of skin stresses and that they are implicated in several epidermal repair pathways.