The Tiny Big Difference: Nanotechnology in Photoprotective Innovations - A Systematic Review.

UV radiation causes long- and short-term skin damage, such as erythema and skin cancer. Therefore, the use of sunscreens is extremely important. However, concerns about UV filter safety have prompted exploration into alternative solutions, with nanotechnology emerging as a promising avenue. This systematic review identified 23 experimental studies utilizing nanocarriers to encapsulate sunscreens with the aim of enhancing their efficacy and safety. Polymeric and lipid nanoparticles are frequently employed to encapsulate both organic and inorganic UV filters along with natural antioxidants. Nanocarriers have demonstrated benefits including reduced active ingredient usage, increased sun protection factor, and mitigated photoinstability. Notably, they also decreased the skin absorption of UV filters. In summary, nanocarriers represent a viable strategy for improving sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced physicochemical properties and bolstered photoprotective effects, thereby addressing concerns regarding UV filter safety and efficacy in cosmetic applications.

Comparison of Characteristics Influencing Patient Selection of Sunscreen Between Urban and Rural Regions in the United States.

Sunscreen greatly reduces the risk of skin cancer and is recommended as a critical component of sun protection. There is limited literature on patient preferences for sunscreen characteristics. A cross-sectional survey was administered to patients in an urban city and rural area in the United States. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was consistently the most important factor for patients when selecting sunscreen. However, numerous preferences for sunscreen characteristics vary between the 2 regions, including dermatologist recommendation, texture, ingredients, cost, broad-spectrum, and brand. Gaps in patient knowledge of sunscreen recommendations may be present and further educational programs may be necessary. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(8):e171-e172. doi:10.36849/JDD.8449.

Photo Visualization of Skintone Compatibility of an SPF 35 Sunscreen.

BACKGROUND: Visual casts and discoloration are common barriers to sunscreen use in melanin-rich populations. However, photoprotective measures are essential for individuals with all skin types, including darker skin. METHODS: Single-center, 7-day, open-label study of healthy adult females with Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FST) IV to VI and sensitive skin treated with once-daily daily facial moisturizer sun protection factor 35 (DFM SPF35). Subjects completed a cosmetic acceptability questionnaire at days 1 and 7. Photography using VISIA CR was performed at day 7. Adverse events were monitored throughout the study. RESULTS: Thirty-two (32) subjects participated; 31.3% had FST IV, 53.1% V, and 15.6% VI skin. DFM SPF35 was viewed as cosmetically elegant. At day 1, 96.7% of subjects agreed product was easy to apply; 90.0% reported soft skin after product use; 86.7% said it had a lightweight, non-greasy feel and hydrated the skin. At day 7, 93.7% reported no visible white residue on their skin and said the product applied easily/absorbed well. The majority (90.6%) would continue using and would recommend the product; and 87.5% reported the product blended seamlessly into their skin, which agreed with clinical photography. Responses were consistent among subjects with normal, oily, or combination skin. No adverse events were reported. CONCLUSIONS: DFM SPF35 blended well into the skin and was perceived favorably among subjects with SOC after 1 and 7 days of use. Subjects felt it had good cosmetic acceptability without unacceptable white residues or a greasy feeling. Dermatologists need to be versed in products that can be used on a variety of skin types.J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):515-518.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8223.

Effects of a Sheer 100% Mineral Sunscreen Moisturizer on Facial Photodamage Across Fitzpatrick Skin Types.

BACKGROUND: All skin tones need to be protected from the damaging effects of solar radiation. Although mineral sunscreens offer protection, they can have a thick, greasy feel and leave a white cast, particularly on darker skin tones. Tints offset white cast and provide visible light protection; however, patients may prefer a sheer option. Therefore, a multifunctional, sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer (MSM) with broad-spectrum SPF 50 was developed to have positive aesthetics and deliver anti-aging and skin health benefits to all skin tones.  Methods: An IRB-approved, 12-week, open-label clinical study was conducted to investigate the efficacy and tolerability of the MSM. Thirty-nine (39) females aged 35 to 60 years with moderate-severe overall facial photodamage and representing all Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) were recruited. Participants applied the MSM to the face and neck in the morning and reapplied per US Food and Drug Administration requirements. Efficacy and tolerability grading, photography, ultrasound imaging, corneometer measurements, and questionnaires were completed at baseline and weeks 4, 8, and 12.  Results: Statistically significant progressive improvements were demonstrated from baseline to week 12. At week 12, 23.4% and 26.5% mean improvements in overall photodamage were seen for FST I-III and FST IV-VI, respectively. Favorable tolerability was shown for both the face and neck. Photography corroborated clinical grading, and ultrasound imaging indicated a trend in skin density improvement. The MSM was well-perceived.  Conclusion: The MSM is an efficacious and well-tolerated product for patients of all skin tones who desire a sheer, 100% mineral sunscreen moisturizer with anti-aging and skin health benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(7):538-544.  doi:10.36849/JDD.8082.

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry.

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Feteasca Neagra, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Factors Influencing Patient Selection of Sunscreen.

Sunscreen is an essential component of sun protection. The most important characteristics for patient selection of sunscreens have not been evaluated. A cross-sectional survey study was performed at an academic dermatology office. The sunscreen characteristic chosen most frequently was SPF (75.2%). Fewer patients selected broad-spectrum (20.7%) and water-resistance (22.7%). There remains a gap in patient knowledge regarding AAD recommendations for sunscreen characteristics and educational initiatives may be required. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(6):e154-e155.     doi:10.36849/JDD.8324e  .

Environmental implications and nanotechnological advances in octocrylene-enriched sunscreen formulations: A comprehensive review.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin aging, cancer, and other detrimental health effects. Sunscreens containing FDA-approved UV filters, like avobenzone, offer protection but suffer from photodegradation and potential phototoxicity. Encapsulation, antioxidants, and photostabilizers are strategies employed to combat these drawbacks. Octocrylene, an organic UV filter, utilizes nanotechnology to enhance sun protection factor (SPF). This review examines recent literature on octocrylene-enriched sunscreens, exploring the interplay between environmental impact, nanotechnological advancements, and clinical trial insights. A critical focus is placed on the environmental consequences of sunscreen use, particularly the potential hazards UV filters pose to marine ecosystems. Research in the Mediterranean Sea suggests bacterial sensitivity to these filters, raising concerns about their integration into the food chain. This review aims to guide researchers in developing effective strategies for photostabilization of UV filters. By combining encapsulation, photostabilizers, and antioxidants, researchers can potentially reduce phototoxic effects and contribute to developing more environmentally friendly sunscreens.

Enhanced sun protection factor of octocrylene with green tea and bhringraj extracts.

OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study of sun protection factor boosting effect sunscreen compositions with herbal extract and combination with octocrylene. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The standardized herbal extracts procured and studied their sun protection Factors. Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) leaf Extract, Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract are selected for the development of the herbal sunscreen composition along with octocrylene as synthetic sunscreen. The developed sunscreen composition contains defined concentration of herbal extracts and octocrylene were evaluated for their different physicochemical properties and stability. Sun protection factor boosting effect of herbal extracts is studied combination with octocrylene. RESULTS: Invitro SPF studied for herbal extract individually and combination with octocrylene. The results of Invitro SPF study revealed the presence of green tea extract and, Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract shows excellent sun protection factor (SPF) boosting value of sunscreen composition containing 5% concentration of herbal extract and octocrylene. The sunscreen formulation containing 5% herbal extracts are stable for 12 weeks in an oven (45 °C). CONCLUSION: The findings of this in-vitro SPF study revealed a sun protection boosting capacity of green tea extract and bhringraj extract confirmed. SUMMARY: The over exposure of human skin to Ultra-Violet Radiation (UVR) can trigger photodamage, UV burn, pigmentation, erythema, and enhance the chance of dermal carcinoma. UVR causes DNA damage, which leads to dermal cancer. Daily sunscreens protect the skin from the adverse effects of sun rays, especially UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm). The ozone layer filters UVC (200-290 nm) radiation when it enters into atmosphere of the earth. UVB causes sunburn, photo damage and cause mutagenic changes in nucleic acids. UVA increases ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species) accumulation. ROS is responsible for cell repair which leads to carcinogenesis, and the cause of photodamage. Herbal extracts contain polyphenols, and flavonoids act as a natural sunscreen that will filter Ultra-Violet (UVB) light and contain antioxidant characteristics to modulate the photo-oxidative damage that results from UV-induced Reactive Oxygen Species production. The UVR protection of most herbal extracts are required to attain the higher UV protection in the sun care products. The approaches for preparing sun care products with higher Sun Protection Factor (SPF) possible through Oil in water formulation with herbal extract combinations of octocrylene. The developed sunscreen composition containing different concentration of herbal extracts were evaluated for their other physicochemical properties and stability. Invitro SPF was studied for Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) Leaf Extract and Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract individually and in combination with octocrylene. The results of the Invitro SPF study revealed the Camellia Sinensis (Green tea) Leaf Extract with octocrylene shows better Sun protection factor than Eclipta prostrata (bhringraj) leaf extract with octocrylene. The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) enhancement value of sunscreen compositions was compared to both sunscreen macroemulsion and nanoemulsion.

Investigation on the Validity of in vitro Sun Protection Factor and Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor Evaluation Method for Sunscreen Samples.

Factors affecting the in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and Ultraviolet-A Protection Factor (UVA-PF) of sunscreens were analyzed for verifying the validity and reliability of the ISO24443 evaluation method. UV absorbance measurements by different spectrophotometers did not lead to the large difference in in vitro SPF/UVA-PF, although the UV absorbance determined by each spectrophotometer exhibited relatively large difference when it was larger than 2. On the other hand, relatively large difference was found in in vitro SPF/UVA-PF by utilizing European Cosmetic and Perfumery Association (Colipa) 1994 or UV-solar simulated radiation (UV-SSR) for the spectral irradiance. Appropriateness of employing the coefficient of adjustment for the determination of in vitro UVA-PF was also found to be reexamined.

Evaluating the factors influencing sun protection factors (SPF): Pooling data from multiple studies involving two reference ISO 24444:2019 sunscreen products (P2 and P8).

BACKGROUND: Standardized methods for sun protection factor (SPF) testing are still beset with endpoint and method-driven issues, and can be influenced by multiple factors. The purpose of this analysis is to explore the factors influencing the results of sun protection factor (SPF) testing in human subjects according to the ISO 24444:2019 standard. Intrinsic factors, such as baseline skin color, age and gender, the minimal erythemal dose on an unprotected area (MEDu), as well as environmental factors such as season/weather influences, are considered for analysis. METHODS: Datasets generated for two reference products (P2 and P8) during the conduct of 50 such studies using the ISO standard 24444:2019 for the testing of SPF products, from a single testing center located in Bucharest, Romania between April 2021 and December 2022, were retrieved and compiled. Overall, the data for 334 subjects was available, with 276 observations for the reference P8, and 171 for P2. RESULTS: No effects due to gender or age were detected. Seasonal changes, the individual typology angle (ITA°) and MEDu were found to have an influence on the outcome of the SPF values. CONCLUSIONS: This study adds new original data about the impact of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on SPF variations pertaining to ISO reference sunscreen P8 (SPF 50+). The findings suggest that some factors will inevitably impact the results between two SPF experiments for the same product and SPF testing laboratory. The interconnections between the sources of this variation are discussed. The findings of this research help to identify and characterize factors that contribute to SPF testing variability.

Evaluation of social knowledge on photoprotection and its relationship with education and age in a Polish seaside town during summer holidays.

OBJECTIVE: This survey aimed to evaluate knowledge of photoprotection among individuals from a random group in a resort town in Poland, Kolobrzeg, and explore the correlation between their knowledge and demographics like age, gender, education, and residence. METHODS: An anonymous survey was conducted among a diverse group. This population comprised individuals from various backgrounds: health spa patients undergoing treatments, therapies and medical appointments, guests visiting the resort for leisure, passersby, and staff working at the spa and recreational facilities. The survey was designed by authors, encompassed 16 questions about knowledge on photoprotection, sunscreen use and related topics, and gathered demographic data. Responses from 142 individuals were statistically analyzed using PQStat Software. RESULTS: Only 7.7% use sunscreen all year-round. The majority apply sun protection factor (SPF) creams on sunny days or with prolonged sun exposure. Over half of the respondents (53.5%) are aware when to apply sunscreen but 43% reapply it less than every 4 h. 25.4% do not reapply at all. 38.7% think protection provided by higher SPF means longer sun exposure time. Over 50% believe SPF 30 offers double the protection of SPF 15. Almost half (46.8%) use extra sun protection, like sunglasses or hats. Significant correlations exist between education/age and certain survey responses. CONCLUSIONS: The findings emphasize the urgency to improve photoprotection knowledge in the Polish population, particularly regarding the year-round harmful solar effects and the correct use of sun protection products.

Application habits and practices of regular sunscreen users in the United States: Results of an online survey.

A nationwide online survey assessed claimed usage of sunscreen products in 2283 self-identified regular sun protection factor (SPF) consumers (RSPFC) in the United States. Subjects applied sunscreen most frequently when spending more than 3 h in the sun. Sunscreen usage peaks during the summer, with sunny weather prompting 99% usage of beach/recreational SPF products but drops to approximately 50% and 30% on partly cloudy and cloudy days, respectively, regardless of SPF product category. About half of RSPFC augment sunscreen product usage by limiting time in the sun and wearing a hat. SPF products are not reapplied by approximately 20-60% of RSPFC, depending upon product category, and reapplication was less than 33% on cloudy and partly cloudy days. Primary reasons for reapplication were water exposure, number of hours in the sun, and being active/sweating, most notably for beach/recreational SPF products. Importantly, in children, 45% of parents reported "redness" as a signal for reapplying sunscreen product. Only 10% of respondents correctly identified sunscreen products as drugs. Based on these results, while sunscreens may share common ingredients and efficacy measures, their usage by consumers varies widely depending on product type, season, weather, gender, age, and geographical location.

Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments.

OBJECTIVE: A key factor that is deficient in most environmental emissions assessments for UV filters is a keen understanding of consumer habits and practices that can inform realistic exposure assessments. This study utilized a large volunteer survey (>11 000 persons) that captured many factors that affect consumer-based loadings to aquatic environments. The purpose of this study was to utilize this large survey to identify factors that affect the amount of sunscreen products used by consumers. METHODS: Correlations among more than 20 variables were used to provide an understanding of the overall dataset and identify factors that may be related to the amount of sunscreen product applied to the body (i.e., application thickness). Forward multiple linear regressions were used to identify the relative importance of each of these factors alone and in combination with others in predicting the amount of applied sunscreen. RESULTS: The proportion of body surface area (BSA) covered by sunscreen was the primary factor related to application thickness, followed by body surface area of the survey participant, seasonal usage, Fitzpatrick skin type and the sun protection factor, respectively. Each of the five regression models examined was statistically highly significant. CONCLUSIONS: Comparisons to recommendations from the National Academies of Science, Engineering and Medicine parameters illustrated sufficient differences so as to encourage the development of future consumer habits and practice surveys that include factors beyond the scope of this study (e.g., activities, time of day, year, location, etc.) that can lead to improved exposure and risk assessments.

OBJECTIF: Un facteur clé qui est insuffisant dans la plupart des évaluations des émissions environnementales pour les filtres UV est une bonne compréhension des habitudes et pratiques des consommateurs qui peuve informer sur les évaluations réalistes de l'exposition. Cette étude a utilisé une vaste enquête auprès de volontaires (> 11 000 personnes) qui a pris en compte de nombreux facteurs affectant les habitudes des consommateurs dans des environnements aquatiques. L'objectif de cette étude était d'utiliser cette vaste enquête pour identifier les facteurs qui affectent la quantité de produit d'écran solaire utilisée par les consommateurs. MÉTHODES: Des corrélations entre plus de vingt variables ont été utilisées pour fournir une compréhension de l'ensemble des données et identifier les facteurs qui peuvent être liés à la quantité de produit d'écran solaire appliqué sur le corps (c.-à-d., épaisseur d'application). Des régressions linéaires multiples ont été utilisées pour identifier l'importance relative de chacun de ces facteurs seuls et en association avec d'autres pour prédire la quantité d'écran solaire appliqué. RÉSULTATS: La proportion de la surface corporelle (SC) couverte par l'écran solaire était le facteur principal lié à l'épaisseur de l'application, suivie de la surface corporelle du participant à l'enquête, de l'utilisation saisonnière, du type de peau (Fitzpatrick) et du facteur de protection solaire, respectivement. Chacun des cinq modèles de régression examinés était hautement significatif statistiquement. CONCLUSIONS: Les comparaisons avec les recommandations des Académies nationales de la science, de l'ingénierie et de la médecine ont mis en évidence des différences suffisantes pour encourager le développement de futures enquêtes sur les habitudes et les pratiques des consommateurs qui incluent des facteurs dépassant le champ d'application de cette étude (ex., activités, moment de la journée, année, lieu, etc.) qui peuvent conduire à une amélioration de l'exposition et des évaluations des risques.

New formulation technology to boost sun protection.

OBJECTIVE: As every skin type worldwide is concerned by photoprotection, with consumers preferring cosmetic elegant and efficient sunscreen products, we aim at developing the most performant and desirable sun care products. METHODS: We selected an interesting polymer, abbreviated AAHCP and designed scanning electron cryomicroscopy (cryoSEM), small angle and wide angle X-ray scattering and confocal laser scanning microscopy studies to understand its behaviour in solution and in simplex sun care formulations. This allowed us to develop innovative sunscreen formulation technology that was demonstrated by in vitro and in vivo photoprotection methods. Comprehensive photoprotection evaluations were made on the fully developed sun protection product. RESULTS: We observed the polymer oil structuring properties as well as its ability to form small and stable droplets in simplex emulsions. In vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) measurements demonstrated the sun protection boosting efficacy of AAHCP polymer in several emulsions or as a stand-alone emulsifier. This formulation technology also allowed to filtering system concentration optimization. Use-test performed on a fully developed AAHCP-based sunscreen validated its optimal performances as well as its ideal cosmetic features, with non-sticky, non-greasy perception and invisible skin result. CONCLUSION: For the first time, thanks to a new specific polymer creating a new type of emulsion, we succeed in reconciliate in a single sun care product maximal SPF efficacy, resistance to numerous stresses and optimal sensoriality.

OBJECTIF: Tous les types de peau du monde étant concernés par la photoprotection, avec des consommateurs qui préfèrent des produits solaires élégants et efficaces, nous nous sommes donné pour mission de développer les produits de protection solaire les plus performants et les plus agréables. MÉTHODES: Nous avons sélectionné un polymère intéressant, l'« AAHCP ¼ dans sa forme abrégée, et avons conçu les études de cryomicroscopie électronique à balayage (CryoSEM), de diffusion des rayons X et de microscopie confocale à balayage laser (Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy) pour comprendre son comportement en solution et dans des formulations de protection solaire simples. Cela nous a permis de développer une technologie innovante de formulation de protection solaire, qui a été démontrée par des méthodes de photoprotection in vitro et in vivo. Le produit de protection solaire a fait l'objet d'évaluations exhaustives de la photoprotection à la fin de sa phase de développement. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons observé les propriétés de structuration de l'huile polymère, ainsi que sa capacité à former de petites gouttelettes stables dans les émulsions de simplex. Les mesures du facteur de protection solaire (sun protection factor, SPF) in vitro et in vivo ont montré que la présence du polymère AAHCP dans plusieurs émulsions ou comme émulsifiant autonome optimise le niveau de protection solaire obtenu. Cette technologie de formulation a également permis d'ajuster la concentration du système de filtration. Le test en conditions réelles d'utilisation effectué sur une protection solaire à base d'AAHCP à la fin de la phase de développement a permis de valider ses performances optimales, ainsi que ses caractéristiques cosmétiques idéales, avec une sensation non collante et non grasse, et un résultat invisible sur la peau. CONCLUSION: Pour la première fois, grâce à un nouveau polymère spécifique créant un nouveau type d'émulsion, nous avons réussi à développer un produit de protection solaire simple à l'efficacité SPF maximale, qui résiste à de nombreuses contraintes et possède une sensibilité optimale.

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Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties.

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 22 full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones.

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Outdoor clinical testing with reference sunscreens to determine differences in skin response between populations of different ethnicity: A combined data analysis from 128 subjects.

BACKGROUND: Two previously published clinical studies by our group assessed erythema and pigmentation responses in outdoor conditions with three reference sunscreens, comparing their effectiveness under the full spectrum of natural sunlight. These studies followed an almost identical protocol but were conducted in two different locations and in two ethnic groups: broadly, Chinese (Singapore) and White European (Mauritius). We analysed the data from these two study populations to compare differences in skin response according to ethnicity. METHODS: The analysis included 128 subjects (53 were Chinese from Singapore and 75 were White European from Mauritius and Singapore). Products used were the reference sunscreens P3 (sun protection factor [SPF] 15), P5 (SPF 30) and P8 (SPF 50+) from ISO norm 24444:2019. Participants were exposed to outdoor sunlight for 2-3 h, depending on baseline ITA. Endpoints were erythema at 24 h: clinical score and colorimetry (Δa*) and pigmentation at 1 week based on colorimetry (ΔL* and ΔITA). RESULTS: Among those with baseline ITA > 41, there were differences in erythemal response between the Chinese and White European groups, the White European group being more erythematous and also having a higher rate of photoprotection failure particularly at SPFs 15 and 30. CONCLUSION: Differences in skin response to sun influenced by ethnicity should be taken into account when making recommendations on sun safety.

Development and evaluation of sunscreen cream containing solid lipid nanoparticles of Spinacia oleraceae.

More research is needed to understand the benefits of environmentally safe and human-friendly herbal-based sunscreen agents against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Because of the toxicity of synthetic chemicals in photoprotective agents, researchers were increasingly focusing on herbal photoprotective formulations. The photoprotective agent's skin retention can be considerably improved by forming solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The study's objective is to evaluate the photoprotective potential of sunscreen cream containing spinach (Spinacia oleracea)-loaded SLN. A solvent emulsification technique was used to develop the spinach-loaded SLN. The various characterization techniques of the developed SLN were performed. Out of all the formulations, the optimized one was fitted into cream and estimated for its photoprotective action. The images obtained from scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed the morphological characteristics of the prepared SLN. The sunscreen cream's viscosity, spreadability, extrudability, and release rate were within acceptable limits. The formulation's in vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was reported to be 15.9 and 14.75, respectively. The results indicated that the prepared formulation possesses good photoprotective action. The accelerated stability tests were carried out with no noticeable changes in the parameters. Our work demonstrated the possibility of using spinach-loaded SLN as a photoprotective agent in cosmetic formulations.

A Bioinspired Skin UV Filter with Broadband UV Protection, Photostability, and Resistance to Oxidative Damage.

In recent years, sunscreens' adverse impacts on the environment and biology have gained wide attention. The improvement of sunscreen safety has become one of the major priorities in skin photoprotection research. It is an effective strategy to develop bionic photoprotective materials by simulating the photoprotective mechanism existing in nature. Inspired by the photoprotective mechanisms of skin and plant leaves, the bionic photoprotective material CS-SA-PDA nanosheet was developed using the free radical grafting method and Michael addition, with natural melanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) nanoparticles and plant sunscreen molecular sinapic acid (SA) as sun protection factors and natural polymer chitosan (CS) as the connecting arm. The results show that CS-SA-PDA can effectively shield UVB and UVA due to the possible synergistic effect between PDA and SA. The introduction of polymer CS significantly improved the photostability of SA and reduced the skin permeability of PDA nanoparticles. The CS-SA-PDA nanosheet can also effectively scavenge photoinduced free radicals. Furthermore, in vivo toxicity and anti-UV evaluations confirm that CS-SA-PDA has no skin irritation and is excellent against skin photodamage, which makes it an ideal skin photoprotective material.