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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(5): 588-601, 2022 Oct.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35916243

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: The objective of our research was to investigate the heat-protecting effect of a product ex vivo and in vivo on human hair fibres. METHODS: A preparatory study was carried out in order to determine an optimal threshold of thermal stress. For this, the structure of cross-sections of the hair fibre was observed by optical microscopy. Then, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) were applied to analyse ex vivo and in vivo morphological and molecular damage in hair structure after heat stress. Finally, in vivo tests were used to collect consumer perception. RESULTS: The preparatory study enabled us to determine an optimal stress threshold of 10 heating cycle for SEM and 5 heating cycle for CRS. Based on spectral hierarchical classification using Ward's clustering algorithm, the ex vivo Raman results show that the spectral signature of the hair treated and heated is very close to the negative control. This shows that the product preserves the keratin structure after thermal stress. These results were also confirmed by an in vivo Raman analysis performed on hair samples from 5 donors. In concordance with Raman results, SEM shows that treated hair presents lesser "bubbles" and "crackling" on the hair surface. Finally, the in vivo studies proved that hair was more protected from heat. CONCLUSION: The authors concluded that the product shows protective properties with respect to morphological and molecular heat damage. We also demonstrate that the product promotes the α-helix keratin conformation and preserves the S-S disulfide bands.


OBJECTIF: L'objectif de notre étude est d'évaluer ex vivo et in vivo l'effet thermoprotecteur d'un produit sur les fibres capillaires humaines. MÉTHODES: Une étude préparatoire a été réalisée afin de déterminer un seuil optimal du stress thermique. Pour cela, la structure des coupes transversales des cheveux a été observée par microscopie optique. Ensuite, la microscopie électronique à balayage (MEB) et la spectroscopie confocale Raman (SCR) ont été appliquées pour analyser les dommages morphologiques et moléculaires (ex vivo et in vivo) de la structure du cheveu après un stress thermique. Enfin, des tests in vivo ont été réalisés pour recueillir la perception des consommateurs. RÉSULTATS: L'étude préparatoire nous a permis de déterminer un seuil de stress thermique optimal correspondant à 10 cycles de chauffage pour la MEB et 5 cycles de chauffage pour la SCR. Basés sur une classification hiérarchique utilisant l'algorithme de Ward, les résultats Raman « ex vivo ¼ montrent que la signature spectrale des cheveux traités et chauffés est très proche du témoin négatif. Cela montre que le produit préserve la structure de la kératine après un stress thermique. Ces résultats ont également été confirmés par une analyse Raman « in vivo ¼ réalisée sur des échantillons de cheveux de 5 donneurs. En concordance avec les résultats Raman, la MEB montre que les cheveux traités présentent moins de « bulles ¼ et de « craquelures ¼ à la surface des cheveux. Enfin, l'étude in vivo a prouvé que les cheveux sont mieux protégés de la chaleur. CONCLUSION: Les auteurs ont conclu que le produit présente des propriétés protectrices vis-à-vis des dommages thermiques morphologiques et moléculaires. Nous avons démontré également que le produit favorise la conformation de la kératine en hélice-α et préserve les bandes disulfures S-S.


Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo , Queratinas Específicas do Cabelo , Cabelo/química , Humanos , Queratinas Específicas do Cabelo/análise , Microscopia Eletrônica de Varredura , Análise Espectral Raman/métodos
2.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35805241

RESUMO

The safety assessment of cosmetics considers the exposure of a 'common consumer', not the occupational exposure of hairdressers. This review aims to compile and appraise evidence regarding the skin toxicity of cysteamine hydrochloride (cysteamine HCl; CAS no. 156-57-0), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP; CAS no. 9003-39-8), PVP copolymers (CAS no. 28211-18-9), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES; CAS no. 9004-82-4), cocamide diethanolamine (cocamide DEA; CAS no. 68603-42-9), and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB; CAS no. 61789-40-0). A total of 298 articles were identified, of which 70 were included. Meta-analysis revealed that hairdressers have a 1.7-fold increased risk of developing a contact allergy to CAPB compared to controls who are not hairdressers. Hairdressers might have a higher risk of acquiring quantum sensitization against cysteamine HCl compared to a consumer because of their job responsibilities. Regarding cocamide DEA, the irritant potential of this surfactant should not be overlooked. Original articles for PVP, PVP copolymers, and SLES are lacking. This systematic review indicates that the current standards do not effectively address the occupational risks associated with hairdressers' usage of hair cosmetics. The considerable irritant and/or allergenic potential of substances used in hair cosmetics should prompt a reassessment of current risk assessment practices.


Assuntos
Dermatite Alérgica de Contato , Preparações para Cabelo , Exposição Ocupacional , Alérgenos/efeitos adversos , Cisteamina , Dermatite Alérgica de Contato/etiologia , Preparações para Cabelo/toxicidade , Humanos , Irritantes , Exposição Ocupacional/efeitos adversos , Exposição Ocupacional/análise
4.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(4): 421-430, 2022 Aug.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35689553

RESUMO

OBJECTIVES: This investigation focuses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry-testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically, we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat). METHODS: The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE), and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor analysis of variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction. RESULTS: Correlations for the dry versus wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R2 ) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix. CONCLUSIONS: The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure.


OBJECTIFS: Cette expérience porte d'abord sur la question de savoir dans quelle mesure les tests de traction humide et sec sur cheveux humains peuvent être considérés comme conduisant à des résultats indépendants. Deuxièmement, nous essayons d'évaluer les sensibilités des tests humides et secs pour détecter les modifications des propriétés mécaniques. Plus précisément, nous nous sommes intéressés à séparer les changements, qui ont été induits par une combinaison d'un produit chimique (oxydation/eau de javel) et d'un traitement physique (chaleur). MÉTHODES: Notre étude repose sur les données relatives aux propriétés de traction (humides et secs) d'un ensemble de tresses capillaires non traitées et décolorées, qui ont été soumises au même programme de traitements thermiques. En tant que paramètres de traction caractéristiques, nous avons choisi le modulus (E), l'extension de rupture (BE) et le stress de rupture (BS). Tout d'abord, les paramètres ont été analysés entre les traitements, pour observer les corrélations entre les données humides et secs. Deuxièmement, nous avons appliqué une analyse de variance à deux facteurs, pour évaluer les effets des facteurs et leur interaction potentielle. RÉSULTATS: Les corrélations entre les données sèches et humides montrent uniquement une relation faible pour E, tandis que les coefficients de détermination (R2) sont assez élevés pour BE et BS. L'analyse ANOVA à deux facteurs permet de quantifier les différentes contributions à la somme totale des carrés pour les trois paramètres. Nous montrons que les paramètres répondent de façon assez différente aux traitements chimiques et thermiques ainsi qu'aux conditions de test (humide ou sec). Il est intéressant de noter que l'interaction entre la substance chimique et le traitement physique est généralement assez faible. Pour l'interprétation des résultats, nous utilisons la notion de transition vitreuse hygro-dépendante ainsi que de la matrice amorphe induite par une contrainte. CONCLUSIONS: L'hypothèse d'indépendance pour les mesures de traction sec et humide ne s'applique qu'au module. Dans l'ensemble, nous considérons le module (humide) comme la meilleure mesure de traction des dommages des fibres, lors de l'évaluation des traitements chimiques et/ou physiques. Dans des conditions ambiantes (sèches), le stress de rupture est une mesure alternative réalisable.


Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo , Cabelo/química , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Temperatura Alta , Humanos , Umidade , Resistência à Tração
5.
Cutis ; 109(2): 98-100, 2022 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35659800

RESUMO

Highly textured hair has been found to be more susceptible to breakage than other hair types due to an increased proportion of spirals and relatively fewer elastic fibers anchoring the hair follicles to the dermis. Women of African descent frequently employ hairstyles and hair treatments for ease of management and as a form of self-expression, but a number of these practices have been implicated as risk factors for alopecia. Herein, we provide an overview of hairstyles for patients with highly textured hair so that physicians may better identify high-risk hairstyles, provide individualized recommendations for safer alternatives, and manage and stop the progression of hair loss before it becomes permanent.


Assuntos
Alopecia , Folículo Piloso , Preparações para Cabelo , Alopecia/etnologia , Alopecia/prevenção & controle , Feminino , Folículo Piloso/lesões , Preparações para Cabelo/efeitos adversos , Humanos
6.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35409860

RESUMO

INTRODUCTION: Exposure to hazardous chemicals released during hairdressing activities from hair care products puts hairdressers at risk of adverse health effects. Safety assessments of hair products are mainly focused on consumers, but exposure for professional hairdressers might be substantially higher. OBJECTIVE: To identify and assess available research data on inhalation exposures of professional hairdressers. METHODS: A systematic search of studies between 1 January 2000 and 30 April 2021 was performed in Medline, Embase, Web of Science and in Cochrane registry, toxicological dossiers of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) of the European Commission as well as the German MAK Commission. Studies reporting quantitative data on airborne concentrations of chemicals in the hairdresser's workplace were considered. The outcome was an airborne concentration of chemicals in the working environment, which was compared, when possible, with current occupational exposure limits (OEL) or guidance levels. RESULTS: In total, 23 studies performed in 14 countries were included. The average number of hairdressing salons per study was 22 (range 1-62). Chemicals most frequently measured were formaldehyde (n = 8), ammonia (n = 5), total volatile organic compounds (TVOC) (n = 5), and toluene (n = 4). More than fifty other chemicals were measured in one to three studies, including various aromatic and aliphatic organic solvents, hydrogen peroxide, persulfate, and particulate matter. Most studies reported environmental air concentrations, while personal exposure was measured only in seven studies. The measured air concentrations of formaldehyde, ammonia, and TVOC exceeded OEL or guidance values in some studies. There was large variability in measuring conditions and reported air concentrations differed strongly within and between studies. CONCLUSION: Hairdressers are exposed to a wide spectrum of hazardous chemicals, often simultaneously. Airborne concentrations of pollutants depend on salon characteristics such as ventilation and the number of customers but also on used products that are often country- or client-specific. For exposure to formaldehyde, ammonia, and TVOC exceeding OELs or guidance values for indoor air was observed. Therefore, occupational exposure should be taken into account by safety regulations for hair care products.


Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo , Exposição Ocupacional , Compostos Orgânicos Voláteis , Amônia/análise , Formaldeído/toxicidade , Substâncias Perigosas , Humanos , Exposição Ocupacional/efeitos adversos
7.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(3): 320-332, 2022 Jun.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35436002

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Nanotechnology has been intensively applied to the development of novel cosmetic products for hair and scalp care during the last decades. Such a trend is corroborated by the fact that about 19% of the total nanocosmetics registered in the StatNano database are intended for hair and scalp care. Nanotechnology-enabled formulations based on nanoparticles, cyclodextrins, liposomes and nanoemulsions have emerged as novel approaches due to chemical stability and their controlled release. Regarding hair care formulations, nanocarriers can target the hair shaft, hair follicle and scalp. Therefore, they have been used to treat several hair disorders, including dandruff and other hair-damaging conditions. METHODS: This review addressed the most important nanocarriers applied to hair-related disorders improvement. Furthermore, the application for hair photoprotection and improvement of hair colour duration by nanotechnological formulations is also approached. Besides, we provided an overview of the current scenario of available nano-based commercial hair products and novel patented inventions. RESULTS: From the patent search, the Patent Cooperation Treaty was pointed as the most important depositing agency while the United States of America has been the most depositing country. On the contrary, according to the StatNano database, Brazil stands out in the hair care worldwide market, and it is also the main producer of hair cosmetics based on nanotechnology. CONCLUSION: As nano-based products offer several advantages over conventional cosmetics, it is expected that in future, there will be more research on nanocarriers applied to hair disorders, as well as commercial products and patent applications.


Au cours des dernières décennies, les nanotechnologies ont été intensivement appliquées au développement de nouveaux produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Cette tendance est corroborée par le fait qu'environ 19% du nombre total de nano-cosmétiques enregistrés dans la base de données StatNano sont destinés à la fois aux soins des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Les formulations basées sur les nanoparticules, les cyclodextrines, les liposomes et les nano-émulsions sont devenues de nouvelles approches grâce à l'amélioration de la stabilité chimique des médicaments et des ingrédients actifs cosmétiques et à leur libération contrôlée. En ce qui concerne les formulations de soins capillaires, les nanocarriers peuvent cibler le follicule pileux, la tige des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Par conséquent, ils ont été utilisés pour traiter plusieurs troubles capillaires, notamment les pellicules et d'autres affections capillaires. Dans cette revue, les nano-carriers les plus importants appliqués à l'amélioration des troubles liés aux cheveux ont été abordés. L'application pour la photoprotection des cheveux et l'amélioration de la durée de la couleur des cheveux par des formulations nanotechnologiques est également abordée. En outre, nous fournissons un aperçu du scénario actuel des produits capillaires commerciaux à base des nanotechnologies disponibles et des nouvelles inventions brevetées. D'après la recherche de brevets, le Traité de coopération en matière de brevets a été désigné comme l'agence de dépôt la plus importante, tandis que les États-Unis d'Amérique ont été le pays le plus déposant. Diversement, le Brésil se distingue sur le marché mondial des soins capillaires et il est aussi le principal producteur de cosmétiques capillaires basés sur les nanotechnologies. Par conséquent, comme les produits à base de nanotechnologies offrent plusieurs avantages par rapport aux cosmétiques conventionnels, on s'attend à ce que les recherches sur les nano-carriers appliqués aux troubles capillaires se multiplient à l'avenir, de même que les produits commerciaux et les demandes de brevets.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Doenças do Cabelo , Preparações para Cabelo , Cabelo , Humanos , Nanotecnologia , Couro Cabeludo
8.
Se Pu ; 40(4): 343-353, 2022 Apr.
Artigo em Chinês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35362682

RESUMO

Cosmetic products for hair loss prevention are often mixed with prohibited substances such as hormones, antibiotics, and forbidden pharmacologically active substances. Although drugs increase the efficacy of cosmetic products, they cause skin irritation and allergic reactions, upon long-term exposure. Given the increasing number of hair loss prevention cosmetics on the market, the need to guarantee product safety calls for efficient and reliable methods to identify illegal ingredients in these products. Chromatography combined with high-resolution mass spectrometry offers the advantages of high resolution and high throughout, thus being a powerful technique for simultaneously detecting illegal ingredients in cosmetics. In this study, an ultra-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time of flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-Q-TOF-MS) method for detecting 19 illegal chemical components was established. Combined with the scientific database, a screening platform for hair loss prevention cosmetics was constructed. The effect of extraction solvent was investigated. The chromatographic and mass spectrometry conditions were optimized. Under the optimal conditions, separation was achieved within 20 min on an ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18 column (100 mm×2.1 mm, 1.7 µm). Acetonitrile and 2 mmol/L ammonium formate solution containing 0.05% formic acid were used as mobile phases for gradient elution. The 19 compounds were detected by positive ion electrospray ionization (ESI) in the MSE mode. The chromatographic retention time, precursor ions, product ions of the target analytes, and abundance ratio were collected to construct a screening database with UNIFI software. The 19 compounds were well separated, with good linearity. The limits of detection (LODs) and limits of quantification (LOQs) were 0.025-0.05 µg/g and 0.075-0.15 µg/g, respectively. Hair lotion and shampoo, which are commonly marketed as hair loss prevention cosmetics, were selected as the respective matrices for the recovery experiment. The average recoveries of the 19 compounds ranged from 68.6% to 118.6%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were 0.3%-10.3%. Then, 77 batches of cosmetic samples were detected and screened under the same conditions. The TOF-MS information, including the retention time, ion addition mode, mass-to-charge ratio of the parent ions and fragment ions, as well as the abundance ratio, were compared between the cosmetic samples and the standard MS information with UNIFI software. Finally, two batches of samples that were illegally adulterated with minoxidil and finasteride were identified. The ESI fragmentation pathway of the product ions from minoxidil was also proposed. The matrix matching external standard method was used to determine the amounts of minoxidil and finasteride in the two batches of hair lotion, and they were as high as 60 mg/g and 0.31 mg/g, respectively. This result revealed that multiple chemical components were simultaneously added to hair loss prevention cosmetics. Furthermore, the amount of the illegally added drug was very high, indicating high safety risk for consumers using such cosmetics. The present method has the advantages of simple operation, high sensitivity, and good reproducibility. It can be used for rapid screening and simultaneous quantitative analysis of various illegal chemicals in hair loss prevention cosmetics.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Preparações para Cabelo , Alopecia/prevenção & controle , Cromatografia Líquida de Alta Pressão , Cromatografia Líquida , Cosméticos/análise , Humanos , Reprodutibilidade dos Testes , Espectrometria de Massas em Tandem
9.
Soft Matter ; 18(14): 2767-2775, 2022 Apr 06.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35315468

RESUMO

Combing hair involves brushing away the topological tangles in a collective curl, defined as a bundle of interacting elastic filaments. Using a combination of experiment and computation, we study this problem that naturally links topology, geometry and mechanics. Observations show that the dominant interactions in hair are those of a two-body nature, corresponding to a braided homochiral double helix. This minimal model allows us to study the detangling of an elastic double helix driven by a single stiff tine that moves along it and leaves two untangled filaments in its wake. Our results quantify how the mechanics of detangling correlates with the dynamics of a topological quantity, the link density, that propagates ahead of the tine and flows out the free end as a link current. This in turn provides a measure of the maximum characteristic length of a single combing stroke in the many-body problem on a head of hair, producing an optimal combing strategy that balances trade-offs between comfort, efficiency and speed of combing in hair curls of varying geometrical and topological complexity.


Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo , Cabelo
10.
Acta Biomater ; 142: 14-35, 2022 04 01.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35202853

RESUMO

Hair care and treatment has evolved significantly through the years as new formulations are continuously being explored in an attempt to meet the demand in cosmetic and medicinal fields. While standard hair care procedures include hair washing, aimed at hair cleansing and maintenance, as well as hair dyeing and bleaching formulations for hair embellishment, modern hair treatments are mainly focused on circumventing hair loss conditions, strengthening hair follicle properties and treat hair infestations. In this regard, active compounds (ACs) included in hair cosmetic formulations include a vast array of hair cleansing and hair dye molecules, and typical hair treatments include anti-hair loss ACs (e.g. minoxidil and finasteride) and anti-lice ACs (e.g. permethrin). However, several challenges still persist, as conventional AC formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, calling for an improved design of formulations regarding both efficacy and safety. More recently, nano-based strategies encompassing nanomaterials have emerged as promising tailored approaches to improve the performance of ACs incorporated into hair cosmetics and treatment formulations. The interest in using these nanomaterials is based on account of their ability to: (1) increase stability, safety and biocompatibility of ACs; (2) maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, acting as versatile biointerfaces; (3) enable the controlled release of ACs in both hair and scalp, serving as prolonged AC reservoirs; besides offering (4) hair follicle targeting features attending to the possibility of surface tunability. This review covers the breakthrough of nanomaterials for hair cosmetics and hair treatment, focusing on organic nanomaterials (polymer-based and lipid-based nanoparticles) and inorganic nanomaterials (nanosheets, nanotubes and inorganic nanoparticles), as well as their applications, highlighting their potential as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: This manuscript is focused on reviewing the nanotechnological strategies investigated for hair care and treatment so far. While conventional formulations exhibit sub-optimal performance and some may present toxicity issues, the selection of improved and suitable nanodelivery systems is of utmost relevance to ensure a proper active ingredient release in both hair and scalp, maximize hair affinity, contact and retention, and provide hair follicle targeting features, warranting stability, efficacy and safety. This innovative manuscript highlights the advantages of nanotechnology-based approaches, particularly as tunable and versatile biointerfaces, and their applications as innovative multifunctional nanomaterials towards maximized hair care and treatment.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Preparações para Cabelo , Nanoestruturas , Cabelo , Preparações para Cabelo/farmacologia , Nanotecnologia
12.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 21(5): 2215-2225, 2022 May.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34416081

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Scalp seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a chronic, relapsing, and inflammatory scalp disease. Studies indicate a global bacterial and fungal microbiota shift of scalp SD, as compared to healthy scalp. Ketoconazole and selenium disulfide (SeS2 ) improve clinical signs and symptoms in both scalp dandruff and SD. AIM: The main objective of this study was to investigate the changes in the scalp microbiota diversity and counts in subjects with scalp SD during a two-phase treatment period. MATERIAL AND METHODS: The scalp microbiota and clinical efficacy were investigated in 68 subjects with mild-to-moderate scalp SD after an initial one-month treatment with 2% ketoconazole, and after a 2-month maintenance phase, either with a 1% SeS2 -based shampoo or its vehicle. RESULTS: Thirty one subjects in the active and 37 subjects in the vehicle group participated. Ketoconazole provided an improvement of clinical symptoms (adherent (-1.75 p < 0.05), non-adherent (-1.5, p < 0.05)) flakes and erythema (scores 1.67-0.93, p < 0.001), in an increased fungal diversity and in a significant (p < 0.005) decrease of Malassezia spp. SeS2 provided an additional clinical improvement (-0.8; p = 0.0002 and -0.7; p = 0.0081 for adherent and non-adherent flakes, respectively, at Day 84) compared to the vehicle associated with a low Malassezia spp. count and an additional significant (p < 0.001) decrease of the Staphylococcus spp. level. CONCLUSION: Selenium disulfide provides an additional benefit on the scalp microbiota and in clinical symptoms of SD and dandruff after treatment with ketoconazole. The results confirm the role of Staphylococcus spp. in scalp SD and open possible perspectives for preventing relapses.


Assuntos
Caspa , Dermatite Seborreica , Preparações para Cabelo , Malassezia , Microbiota , Dermatoses do Couro Cabeludo , Caspa/tratamento farmacológico , Dermatite Seborreica/tratamento farmacológico , Dermatite Seborreica/microbiologia , Preparações para Cabelo/efeitos adversos , Humanos , Cetoconazol/uso terapêutico , Couro Cabeludo , Dermatoses do Couro Cabeludo/tratamento farmacológico , Dermatoses do Couro Cabeludo/microbiologia , Compostos de Selênio
13.
Trends Biotechnol ; 40(5): 591-605, 2022 05.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34666897

RESUMO

Cosmetics procedures and products combined with environmental insults and daily routines induce irreversible changes in hair. As result of damage, the hair loses some of its properties like strength, elasticity, and smoothness. Recent studies revealed the positive effects of protein-based cosmetics in providing protection to hair. Additionally, these cosmetic products have also shown a great ability to modify hair fibers. We review the effect of protein-based cosmetic formulations on hair properties like color, scent, strength, shape, and volume, highlighting the potential of keratin-based particles and keratin-fusion proteins. In the future, incorporating multifunctional proteins and peptides in the development of alternative hair formulations will result in advanced, sustainable, ecofriendly cosmetic products with a great impact on the cosmetic industry.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Preparações para Cabelo , Biotecnologia , Queratinas/química , Queratinas/metabolismo , Peptídeos
14.
Dermatitis ; 33(1): 91-102, 2022.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34149001

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Hair care products (HCPs) may cause both allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) and irritant contact dermatitis (ICD). OBJECTIVES: The aims of the study were to determine the prevalence of HCP-associated ICD/ACD and to characterize relevant allergens. METHODS: This study is a retrospective analysis of North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) patch test data, 2001-2016. RESULTS: Of 38,775 patients tested, 3481 (9.0%) had positive patch test reactions associated with HCPs. The HCP-positive patients were significantly more likely to be female (79.9% vs 66.0%) and/or have primary sites of dermatitis on the face (32.0% vs 27.8%) or scalp (15.4% vs 2.2%) compared with the HCP-negative patients (P < 0.0001). Of 4908 HCP-associated positive patch test reactions, 86.9% (n = 4263) were due to allergens on the NACDG screening series; p-phenylenediamine (35.8%), methylisothiazolinone (9.7%), methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (8.7%), and cocamidopropyl betaine (5.9%) were the most frequent. Most reactions (87.7%, 3736/4263) were currently clinically relevant. The most common job associated with 366 occupationally related NACDG HCP-associated allergens was hairdresser/cosmetologist (71.9%). Two hundred eighty-two patients (0.7%) had ICD associated with HCPs. Shampoo/conditioners were the most frequent source of NACDG HCP-associated reactions (47.3%) and HCP-associated ICD (45.0%). CONCLUSIONS: Of the HCP-positive patients, 18.5% had HCP reactions to allergens not on the NACDG screening series, underscoring the importance of patch testing to expanded series in patients suspected of HCP allergy.


Assuntos
Alérgenos/efeitos adversos , Dermatite Alérgica de Contato/diagnóstico , Dermatite Ocupacional/diagnóstico por imagem , Preparações para Cabelo/efeitos adversos , Testes do Emplastro/métodos , Cosméticos/efeitos adversos , Dermatite Alérgica de Contato/etiologia , Dermatite Ocupacional/etiologia , Feminino , Humanos , Masculino , América do Norte , Estudos Retrospectivos
15.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 21(4): 1666-1674, 2022 Apr.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34085368

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: Synthetic shampoos have toxic chemical agents like chemicals such as parabens and sodium lauryl sulfate which damage the hair. To combat this issue, the use of natural herbal shampoos, as opposed to synthetic shampoos, is becoming increasingly popular. One of the many medicinal plants present in Karnataka and Kerala is Cyclea peltata. This plant has long been known to assist in wound healing, allergy relief, and hair and scalp improvement, as well as serving as a coolant for hair applications. OBJECTIVE: The key subject of this research was the preparation of plant extracts and fermentation of Cyclea peltata leaf extract with Lactobacillus plantarum, resulting in the formulation of an herbal shampoo. METHOD: The leaf extract contained alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acid, saponins, and proteins, according to previous research by this group. The fermented product showed the presence of lactic acid, which was a boon for shampoo base as it protects the hair from the sunlight and improves the texture and strength of hair fibers. Cyclea peltata was used as the main ingredient in herbal shampoo formulations, along with other herbal ingredients, and the formulated shampoo was characterized for its different organoleptic (Color, odor) and physicochemical properties (pH, solid content, wettability, emulsification, and foam stability) to find the best formulation. RESULT: Formulation H2 showed better organoleptic and physicochemical properties and thus was chosen as the best formulation among the 11 formulations. CONCLUSION: Formulation H2 is regarded as the best formulation based on the results of the physicochemical tests (Pleasant odor, pH 3.01, solid content of 5.75%, wettability of 1.68 s, and percentage emulsification of 68.75%).


Assuntos
Cyclea , Preparações para Cabelo , Cyclea/química , Preparações para Cabelo/química , Humanos , Índia , Extratos Vegetais , Sensação
16.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 21(2): 827-835, 2022 Feb.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-33834606

RESUMO

BACKGROUND: There is currently a great interest not only in developing products for the protection and recovery of chemically damaged hair, but also in developing effective protocols to investigate the impact of chemical treatments and attest the efficacy of innovative hair care products. Among the most relevant cosmetic treatments for hair are bleaching and coloring, which have been shown to significantly impair mechanical and structural properties. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to characterize the damage induced by hair bleaching and coloring and to evaluate the protective effects of a hair care treatment based on integral silk proteins (fibroin and sericin) and vegetable-derived polysaccharides from linseed (Linum usitatissimum L.). METHODS: Hair swatches were subjected to different treatment protocols in order to evaluate the protective effect of proposed and benchmark products during bleaching and coloring processes. Tensile tests were performed to assess mechanical properties and improvement in resistance to breakage. Goniophotometric measurements were applied to determine improvement in luster. Hair fiber surface and relief were evaluated by SEM image analysis. RESULTS: Swatches bleached and treated with both evaluated products had a significant increase in resistance and reduced structural damage. Swatches colored and treated with both evaluated products showed reduced structural damage, and a significant increase in resistance and luster after the 1st and 5th washes. CONCLUSIONS: The proposed product was effective in protecting and repairing bleached and colored swatches, improving resistance and luster and reducing structural damage. By applying complementary techniques within a reliable evaluation protocol, it was possible to attest the protective properties of the product under study.


Assuntos
Cosméticos , Preparações para Cabelo , Cabelo , Humanos , Polissacarídeos/uso terapêutico , Proteínas
19.
Bull Cancer ; 108(11): 1030-1035, 2021 Nov.
Artigo em Francês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34579943

RESUMO

INTRODUCTION: Socio-aesthetics is the delivery appropriate beauty care in a population weakened by a physical, psychological and/or social attack. It has found its place in indications in both medical (especially in oncology) and social settings. It offers many types of treatments including facials, foot beauty, make-up, wig tips, body massage, product advice, cosmetic manicure, varnishing… The main purpose of this study was to evaluate pain reduction as a result of socio-aesthetics. METHODS: One hundred and eighty patients were offered a socio-aesthetic session between 12/01/2018 and 11/30/2019. One hundred and fifty-seven (87,2%) accepted the care (56.7% of women/43.3% of men, regardless of the type of cancer) and all agreed to complete a questionnaire on the type of treatment received, the benefits felt and a Likert pain assessment scale before and after the treatment. RESULTS: No patient experienced an increase in pain after the socio-aesthetic care. In the general population, the mean pain evaluation was rated at 1.31/10 and 0.78/10 before and after the session respectively, p<10-5. By selecting patients experiencing pain before treatment (40 patients, 28.0% of the total population), the mean pain evaluation was 4.27/10 and 2.52/10 before and after the treatment respectively, p<10-5. Pain was significantly reduced by massage. No patient found the socio-aesthetic treatment unnecessary. CONCLUSION: Socio-aesthetics is definitely a supportive care in oncology as it is significantly analgesic. It is easily accepted by men and regardless of the type of cancer. Researchers should conduct more studies on its impact on the quality of life.


Assuntos
Indústria da Beleza/métodos , Dor do Câncer/terapia , Cosméticos/uso terapêutico , Higiene da Pele/métodos , Idoso , Aconselhamento , Feminino , Preparações para Cabelo/uso terapêutico , Humanos , Masculino , Massagem , Unhas , Neoplasias/terapia , Medição da Dor/estatística & dados numéricos , Fatores Sexuais
20.
Cutis ; 108(1): 20-22, 2021 Jul.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34397353

RESUMO

Traction alopecia (TA) remains a common concern for Black women visiting a dermatologist. Understanding cultural hair care practices, timely diagnosis, and discontinuation of high-risk hairstyles are essential for preventing TA from progressing to scarring alopecia. This dialogue might be difficult for hair-discordant physicians and patients because of a lack of training and shared experiences. We present an empathetic and culturally sensitive method for discussing TA with patients.


Assuntos
Preparações para Cabelo , Tração , Afro-Americanos , Alopecia/diagnóstico , Aconselhamento , Feminino , Humanos
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