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1.
J Phys Ther Sci ; 36(4): 186-189, 2024 04.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38562534

RESUMO

[Purpose] The aim of this study was to examine whether the forward tilt of the sacrum, which can be measured using an inclinometer, correlates with pelvic tilt and is therefore suitable for therapeutic use as part of a postural assessment for treatment planning or for preventive screening. [Participants and Methods] In 121 athletes (22 females, 99 males), we measured the forward tilt of the sacrum in habitual stance using a digital inclinometer attached to the skin at the level of the posterior superior spinae. At the same time, the forward tilt of the pelvis was determined using videography. For this purpose, we determined the angle between two marker spheres placed on the posterior and anterior superior spinae and the horizontal using sagittal posture photographs. [Results] Taking age as a control variable, we found a significant correlation of moderate strength between pelvic tilt and sacral tilt in men. In women, there was a significant correlation with a strong effect. [Conclusion] The measurement of sacral tilt using an inclinometer positioned on the skin between the posterior superior spinae correlates statistically significantly with pelvic tilt and is therefore suitable as an easy-to-use diagnostic tool for therapeutic use in treatment planning and evaluation.

2.
J Sports Sci Med ; 19(3): 535-546, 2020 09.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32874107

RESUMO

Strength training in youth soccer has both a preventive and a sports-specific component. Whole-body electromyostimulation (WB-EMS) could represent an interesting time-saving add-on to classical strength exercises in performance-oriented soccer. The objective of this study was to find out whether a 10-week superimposed WB-EMS training might have a more positive impact on strength parameters in male youth elite soccer players than regular athletic strength exercises alone. A total of 30 male youth soccer players from a youth academy aged 15 to 17 years participated in the study. Before and after the intervention, the isometric extension and flexion forces of trunk and knee, and the hip abduction and adduction forces were tested. Twelve players (control group) absolved a conventional 20-minute strength training once a week for a period of ten weeks. Eighteen players absolved the same exercises but with superimposed WB-EMS. Blood creatine kinase concentration was measured for training control. ANOVAs, Friedman tests and post hoc t-tests were calculated (p = 0.05) to examine the strength development during the training period between the groups. While we could not find significant strength increases in the leg, hip and trunk muscles in the control group (<4%), the strength of the WB-EMS group improved significantly in 4 of the 6 muscle groups tested. In this group, the strength of knee flexors increased significantly by 20.68 ± 21.55%, knee extensors by 31.43 ± 37.02%, hip adductors by 21.70 ± 12.86% and trunk flexors by 33.72 ± 27.43%. The rates of strength increase are partly in line with other studies, partly clearly higher, which might be explained by the athletically active target group. A 10-week superimposed WB-EMS training improves the strength of certain leg, hip and trunk muscles in male adolescent elite soccer players to a greater extent than a pure athletic strength training of the same duration.


Assuntos
Estimulação Elétrica/métodos , Força Muscular/fisiologia , Treinamento Resistido/métodos , Futebol/fisiologia , Adolescente , Desempenho Atlético/fisiologia , Quadril/fisiologia , Humanos , Joelho/fisiologia , Músculo Esquelético/fisiologia , Fatores de Tempo , Tronco/fisiologia
3.
J Sports Sci Med ; 19(2): 271-281, 2020 06.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32390720

RESUMO

The difference in the efficacy of altered stimulation parameters in whole-body-electromyostimulation (WB-EMS) training remains largely unexplored. However, higher impulse frequencies (>50 Hz) might be most adequate for strength gain. The aim of this study was to analyze potential differences in sports-related performance parameters after a 10-week WB-EMS training with different frequencies. A total of 51 untrained participants (24.9 ± 3.9 years, 174 ± 9 cm, 72.4 ± 16.4 kg, BMI 23.8 ± 4.1, body fat 24.7 ± 8.1 %) was randomly divided into three groups: one inactive control group (CON) and two training groups. They completed a 10-week WB-EMS program of 1.5 sessions/week, equal content but different stimulation frequencies (training with 20 Hz (T20) vs. training with 85 Hz (T85)). Before and after intervention, all participants completed jumping (Counter Movement Jump (CMJ), Squat Jump (SJ), Drop Jump (DJ)), sprinting (5m, 10m, 30m), and strength tests (isometric trunk flexion/extension). One-way ANOVA was applied to calculate parameter changes. Post-hoc least significant difference tests were performed to identify group differences. Significant differences were identified for CMJ (p = 0.007), SJ (p = 0.022), trunk flexion (p = 0.020) and extension (p=.013) with significant group differences between both training groups and CON (not between the two training groups T20 and T85). A 10-week WB-EMS training leads to significant improvements of jump and strength parameters in untrained participants. No differences could be detected between the frequencies. Therefore, both stimulation frequencies can be regarded as adequate for increasing specific sport performance parameters. Further aspects as regeneration or long term effects by the use of different frequencies still need to be clarified.


Assuntos
Desempenho Atlético/fisiologia , Estimulação Elétrica/métodos , Educação Física e Treinamento/métodos , Adulto , Teste de Esforço , Humanos , Força Muscular/fisiologia , Exercício Pliométrico , Corrida/fisiologia , Adulto Jovem
4.
J Phys Ther Sci ; 32(6): 395-400, 2020 Jun.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32581432

RESUMO

[Purpose] Whole-body electromyostimulation (WB-EMS) is an extension of the EMS application known in physical therapy. In WB-EMS, body composition and skinfold thickness seem to play a decisive role in influencing the Ohmic resistance and therefore the maximum intensity tolerance. That is why the therapeutic success of (WB-)EMS may depend on individual anatomical parameters. The aim of the study was to find out whether gender, skinfold thickness and parameters of body composition have an influence on the maximum intensity tolerance in WB-EMS. [Participants and Methods] Fifty-two participants were included in the study. Body composition (body impedance, body fat, fat mass, fat-free mass) and skinfold thicknesses were measured and set into relation to the maximum intensity tolerance. [Results] No relationship between the different anthropometric parameters and the maximum intensity tolerance was detected for both genders. Considering the individual muscle groups, no similarities were found in the results. [Conclusion] Body composition or skinfold thickness do not seem to have any influence on the maximum intensity tolerance in WB-EMS training. For the application in physiotherapy this means that a dosage of the electrical voltage within the scope of a (WB-) EMS application is only possible via the subjective feedback (BORG Scale).

5.
J Wound Care ; 28(9): 566-575, 2019 Sep 02.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31513501

RESUMO

OBJECTIVE: Self-management is important to successfully managing chronic skin diseases. The Person-Centred Dermatology Self-care Index (PeDeSI) is a self-efficacy theory-based questionnaire tool to measure education and support needs of adults with long-term skin conditions. The aim of this research was to translate the PeDeSI into German (PeDeSI-G) and to explore the validity of this tool. METHODS: The instrument was translated by five translators working independently. User understanding and relevance were evaluated by nurses, patients and physicians. The translated version was modified and applied in a subsequent validation study. Demographic and other variables, PeDeSI-G and Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) scores of dermatological patients were obtained. RESULTS: PeDeSi-G and DLQI scores were obtained from 100 patients. A conceptually and semantically equivalent German translation of the PeDeSI was developed. There was a statistically significant difference between in- and outpatients (p<0.001). PeDeSI-G scores were most strongly correlated with disease duration and DLQI scores. CONCLUSIONS: Validation results indicate that the PeDeSI-G is able to discriminate between patients with different educational and support needs for this patient group. Newly diagnosed patients and patients admitted to the hospital for the first time might benefit most from the PeDeSI-G assessment. The PeDeSI-G is a valid tool for assessing and evaluating the support needs of German-speaking patients with chronic skin disease.


Assuntos
Qualidade de Vida , Autocuidado/normas , Dermatopatias/psicologia , Inquéritos e Questionários/normas , Dermatologia/normas , Humanos , Valor Preditivo dos Testes , Reprodutibilidade dos Testes , Dermatopatias/diagnóstico , Traduções
6.
J Sports Sci Med ; 18(4): 729-737, 2019 12.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-31827358

RESUMO

The importance of well trained and stable neck flexors and extensors as well as trunk muscles for intentional headers in soccer is increasingly discussed. The neck flexors and extensors should ensure a coupling of trunk and head at the time of ball contact to increase the physical mass hitting the ball and reduce head acceleration. The aim of the study was to analyze the influence of a 6-week strength training program (neck flexors, neck extensors) on the acceleration of the head during standing, jumping and running headers as well as after fatigue of the trunk muscles on a pendulum header. A total of 33 active male soccer players (20.3 ± 3.6 years, 1.81 ± 0.07 m, 75.5 ± 8.3 kg) participated and formed two training intervention groups (IG1: independent adult team, IG2: independent youth team) and one control group (CG: players from different teams). The training intervention consisted of three exercises for the neck flexors and extensors. The training effects were verified by means of the isometric maximum voluntary contraction (IMVC) measured by a telemetric Noraxon DTS force sensor. The head acceleration during ball contact was determined using a telemetric Noraxon DTS 3D accelerometer. There was no significant change of the IMVC over time between the groups (F=2.265, p=.121). Head acceleration was not reduced significantly for standing (IG1 0.4 ± 2.0, IG2 0.1 ± 1.4, CG -0.4 ± 1.2; F = 0.796, p = 0.460), jumping (IG1-0.7 ± 1.4, IG2-0.2 ± 0.9, CG 0.1 ± 1.2; F = 1.272, p = 0.295) and running (IG1-1.0 ± 1.9, IG2-0.2 ± 1.4, CG -0.1 ± 1.6; F = 1.050, p = 0.362) headers as well as after fatigue of the trunk musculature for post-jumping (IG1-0.2 ± 2.1, IG2-0.6 ± 1.4; CG -0.6 ± 1.3; F = 0.184, p = 0.833) and post-running (IG1-0.3 ± 1.6, IG2-0.7 ± 1.2, CG 0.0 ± 1.4; F = 0.695, p = 0.507) headers over time between IG1, IG2 and CG. A 6-week strength training of the neck flexors and neck extensors could not show the presumed preventive benefit. Both the effects of a training intervention and the consequences of an effective intervention for the acceleration of the head while heading seem to be more complex than previously assumed and presumably only come into effect in case of strong impacts.


Assuntos
Cabeça/fisiologia , Força Muscular/fisiologia , Músculos do Pescoço/fisiologia , Treinamento Resistido/métodos , Futebol/fisiologia , Aceleração , Acelerometria , Adolescente , Fenômenos Biomecânicos , Concussão Encefálica/prevenção & controle , Humanos , Contração Isométrica/fisiologia , Masculino , Fadiga Muscular/fisiologia , Futebol/lesões , Fatores de Tempo , Adulto Jovem
7.
J Phys Ther Sci ; 29(7): 1154-1158, 2017 Jul.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-28744036

RESUMO

[Purpose] This study examined possible interrelationships between postural sway and posture parameters in children and adolescents with a particular focus on posture weakness. [Subjects and Methods] 308 healthy children and adolescents (124 girls, 184 boys, aged 12.3 ± 2.5 years) participated in the study. Posture parameters (posture index, head protrusion, trunk inclination) were determined based on posture photos in the sagittal plane. Postural sway was measured during 20 seconds on a force plate. The Pearson's product-moment correlation coefficients between the anthropometric and posture parameters and the sway path length (SPL) were calculated, as well as the coefficient of determination R2. [Results] There is a weak but significant correlation between age or body mass index of the test subjects and the SPL. There is no statistically significant correlation between posture parameters and the SPL. Children and adolescents with posture weakness do not exhibit a changed SPL. [Conclusion] Therefore, therapy of poor posture must be considered separately from therapeutic measures for the improvement of balance skills.

8.
J Phys Ther Sci ; 28(5): 1607-10, 2016 May.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-27313382

RESUMO

[Purpose] Poor posture in children and adolescents is a well-known problem. Therefore, early detection of incorrect posture is important. Photometric posture analysis is a cost-efficient and easy method, but needs reliable reference values. As children's posture changes as they grow, the assessment needs to be age-specific. This study aimed to investigate the development of both one-dimensional posture parameter (body inclination angle) and complex parameter (posture index) in different age groups (childhood to adolescence). [Subjects and Methods] The participants were 372 symptom-free children and adolescents (140 girls and 232 boys aged 6-17). Images of their habitual posture were obtained in the sagittal plane. High-contrast marker points and marker spheres were placed on anatomical landmarks. Based on the marker points, the body inclination angle (INC) and posture index (PI) were calculated using the Corpus concepts software. [Results] The INC angle significantly increased with age. The PI did not change significantly among the age groups. No significant differences between the corresponding age groups were found for PI and INC for both sexes. [Conclusion] When evaluating posture using the body inclination angle, the age of the subject needs to be considered. Posture assessment with an age-independent parameter may be more suitable.

9.
Data Brief ; 55: 110718, 2024 Aug.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-39081495

RESUMO

Weak posture is a widely recognized problem affecting individuals of all ages, that can lead to back pain, which is a significant socio-economic burden in civil societies. Posture assessment enables the early detection of postural deficiencies, thus enabling proactive interventions. Therefore, it is an important tool for promoting public health, not only in childhood and adolescence. This article provides posture data of 1,149 subjects aged 10 to 69 years measured by stereophotogrammetry. In addition to subject anthropometrics, raw sagittal posture parameters as well as calculated flèche cervicale (FC), flèche lombaire (FL), and kyphosis index (KI) and the respective values normalized to the trunk height (FC%, FL%, KI%) are provided. Further, based on the measurements and a visual inspection, biomedical experts made a classification of the presence of hyperkyphosis of the thoracic spine or hyperlordosis of the lumbar spine. In a second step, these assessments were algorithmically checked for label quality due to possible errors of the raters. Critical cases were reassessed by experts. In addition to the original ratings, these corrected labels are also reported. The data offers potential for data driven objective posture assessment and the development of diagnostic supportive machine learning applications.

10.
J Funct Morphol Kinesiol ; 9(1)2024 Jan 29.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38390925

RESUMO

The correction of postural weaknesses through the better positioning of the pelvis is an important approach in sports therapy and physiotherapy. The pelvic position in the sagittal plane is largely dependent on the muscular balance of the ventral and dorsal muscle groups. The aim of this exploratory study was to examine whether healthy persons use similar muscular activation patterns to correct their pelvic position or whether there are different motor strategies. The following muscles were recorded in 41 persons using surface electromyography (EMG): M. trapezius pars ascendens, M. erector spinae pars lumbalis, M. gluteus maximus, M. biceps femoris, M. rectus abdominis, and M. obliquus externus. The participants performed 10 voluntary pelvic movements (retroversion of the pelvis). The anterior pelvic tilt was measured videographically via marker points on the anterior and posterior superior iliac spine. The EMG data were further processed and normalized to the maximum voluntary contraction. A linear regression analysis was conducted to assess the relationship between changes in the pelvic tilt and muscle activities. Subsequently, a Ward clustering analysis was applied to detect potential muscle activation patterns. The differences between the clusters and the pelvic tilt were examined using ANOVA. Cluster analysis revealed the presence of four clusters with different muscle activation patterns in which the abdominal muscles and dorsal muscle groups were differently involved. However, the gluteus maximus muscle was involved in every activation pattern. It also had the strongest correlation with the changes in pelvic tilt. Different individual muscle patterns are used by different persons to correct pelvic posture, with the gluteus maximus muscle apparently playing the most important role. This can be important for therapy, as different muscle strategies should be trained depending on the individually preferred motor patterns.

11.
J Clin Med ; 12(23)2023 Nov 30.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38068494

RESUMO

Background: Femoroacetabular impingement is one possible cause for groin pain and can lead to long periods of absence for football players. In cam impingement, the end-grade position of the leg at kicking makes the hip particularly prone to faulty contact between the acetabulum and the femoral head. Studies suggest that the resting position of the pelvis in the sagittal plane may have an important role in the biomechanics of movement in the presence of cam impingement. Methods: A 19-year-old male competitive footballer complained of sudden groin pain during a period of low athletic load. Biomechanical tests (3D posture and isometric strength analyses) showed that unbalanced individual strength training had resulted in an increased forward tilt of the pelvis. At the same time, cam impingement was confirmed radiologically, which obviously contributed to the sudden onset of the symptoms. The kicking technique of the athlete showed increased hip and trunk flexion, which also indicated a muscular imbalance. Targeted strength and stretching exercises three times a week improved the pelvic position in terms of reduced anteversion. At the same time, the patient performed strength exercises to improve his kicking technique. Results: After 8 weeks, improvements in his pelvic position and global posture and increased muscle strength could be verified. At the same time, the athlete was free of complaints again. Conclusions: When groin pain occurs in football players with cam impingement, special attention should be paid to the resting position of the pelvis in the sagittal plane. Correcting increased pelvic anteversion can prevent unfavourable end-grade collisions of the acetabulum and femoral head during kicking with strong hip flexion and adduction. Possible changes in the pelvic position due to adverse individual strength training performed by young athletes should always be kept in mind.

12.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36901144

RESUMO

Poor posture is a well-known problem in all age groups and can lead to back pain, which in turn can result in high socio-economic costs. Regular assessment of posture can therefore help to identify postural deficits at an early stage in order to take preventive measures and can therefore be an important tool for promoting public health. We measured the posture of 1127 symptom-free subjects aged 10 to 69 years using stereophotogrammetry and determined the sagittal posture parameters flèche cervicale (FC), flèche lombaire (FL), and kyphosis index (KI) as well as the values standardized to the trunk height (FC%, FL%, KI%). FC, FC%, KI, and KI% showed an increase with age in men but not in women, and a difference between the sexes. FL remained largely constant with age, although FL% had significantly greater values in women than men. Postural parameters correlated only moderately or weakly with body mass index. Reference values were determined for different age groups and for both sexes. Since the parameters analyzed can also be determined by simple and non-instrumental methods in medical office, they are suitable for performing preventive checks in daily medical or therapeutic practice.


Assuntos
Cifose , Masculino , Humanos , Feminino , Valores de Referência , Dor nas Costas , Índice de Massa Corporal , Postura , Coluna Vertebral
13.
Bioengineering (Basel) ; 10(5)2023 Apr 24.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37237581

RESUMO

Postural deficits such as hyperlordosis (hollow back) or hyperkyphosis (hunchback) are relevant health issues. Diagnoses depend on the experience of the examiner and are, therefore, often subjective and prone to errors. Machine learning (ML) methods in combination with explainable artificial intelligence (XAI) tools have proven useful for providing an objective, data-based orientation. However, only a few works have considered posture parameters, leaving the potential for more human-friendly XAI interpretations still untouched. Therefore, the present work proposes an objective, data-driven ML system for medical decision support that enables especially human-friendly interpretations using counterfactual explanations (CFs). The posture data for 1151 subjects were recorded by means of stereophotogrammetry. An expert-based classification of the subjects regarding the presence of hyperlordosis or hyperkyphosis was initially performed. Using a Gaussian progress classifier, the models were trained and interpreted using CFs. The label errors were flagged and re-evaluated using confident learning. Very good classification performances for both hyperlordosis and hyperkyphosis were found, whereby the re-evaluation and correction of the test labels led to a significant improvement (MPRAUC = 0.97). A statistical evaluation showed that the CFs seemed to be plausible, in general. In the context of personalized medicine, the present study's approach could be of importance for reducing diagnostic errors and thereby improving the individual adaptation of therapeutic measures. Likewise, it could be a basis for the development of apps for preventive posture assessment.

14.
Sports (Basel) ; 11(2)2023 Feb 06.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36828322

RESUMO

The objectification of acute fatigue (during isometric muscle contraction) and cumulative fatigue (due to multiple intermittent isometric muscle contractions) plays an important role in sport climbing. The data of 42 participants were used in the study. Climbing performance was operationalized using maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) by performing dead hangs. The test started with an initial measurement of handgrip strength (HGS) followed by three intermittent measurements of CSHT and HGS. During the test, finger flexor muscle oxygen saturation (SmO2) was measured using a near-infrared spectroscopy wearable biosensor. Significant reductions in CSHT and HGS could be found (p < 0.001), which indicates that the consecutive maximal isometric holding introduces cumulative fatigue. The reduction in CSHT did not correlate with a reduction in HGS over multiple consecutive maximal dead hangs (p > 0.35). Furthermore, there were no significant differences in initial SmO2 level, SmO2 level at termination, SmO2 recovery, and mean negative slope of the SmO2 saturation reduction between the different measurements (p > 0.24). Significant differences were found between pre-, termination-, and recovery- (10 s after termination) SmO2 levels (p < 0.001). Therefore, monitoring acute fatigue using athletes' termination SmO2 saturation seems promising. By contrast, the measurement of HGS and muscle oxygen metabolism seems inappropriate for monitoring cumulative fatigue during intermittent isometric climbing-specific muscle contractions.

15.
Front Physiol ; 14: 1174103, 2023.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37035684

RESUMO

Whole-Body Electromyostimulation (WB-EMS) is a training technology that enables simultaneous stimulation of all the main muscle groups with a specific impulse intensity for each electrode. The corresponding time-efficiency and joint-friendliness of WB-EMS may be particularly attractive for people unable or unmotivated to conduct (intense) conventional training protocols. However, due to the enormous metabolic and musculoskeletal impact of WB-EMS, particular attention must be paid to the application of this technology. In the past, several scientific and newspaper articles reported severe adverse effects of WB-EMS. To increase the safety of commercial non-medical WB-EMS application, recommendations "for safe and effective whole-body electromyostimulation" were launched in 2016. However, new developments and trends require an update of these recommendations to incorporate more international expertise with demonstrated experience in the application of WB-EMS. The new version of these consensus-based recommendations has been structured into 1) "general aspects of WB-EMS", 2) "preparation for training", recommendations for the 3) "WB-EMS application" itself and 4) "safety aspects during and after training". Key topics particularly addressed are 1) consistent and close supervision of WB-EMS application, 2) mandatory qualification of WB-EMS trainers, 3) anamnesis and corresponding consideration of contraindications prior to WB-EMS, 4) the participant's proper preparation for the session, 5) careful preparation of the WB-EMS novice, 6) appropriate regeneration periods between WB-EMS sessions and 7) continuous interaction between trainer and participant at a close physical distance. In summary, we are convinced that the present guideline will contribute to greater safety and effectiveness in the area of non-medical commercial WB-EMS application.

19.
Sports (Basel) ; 10(3)2022 Mar 08.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35324650

RESUMO

The present study aimed to assess the effects of asymmetric muscle fatigue on the skin surface temperature of abdominal and back muscles. The study was based on a pre-post/follow-up design with one group and included a total of 41 subjects (22 male, 19 female; age, 22.63 ± 3.91; weight, 71.89 ± 12.97 kg; height, 173.36 ± 9.95). All the participants were asked to perform side bends in sets of 20 repetitions on a Roman chair until complete exhaustion. The pre-, post- and follow-up test (24 h after) skin surface temperatures were recorded with infrared thermography. Subjective muscle soreness and muscle fatigue were analyzed using two questionnaires. The results of the post hoc tests showed that skin temperature was statistically significantly lower in the post-tests than in the pre- and follow-up tests, but no meaningful differences existed between the pre- and follow-up tests. Asymmetric side differences were found in the post-test for the upper and lower areas of the back. Differences were also noted for the front in both the upper and lower areas. No thermographic side asymmetries were found at the pre- or follow-up measurement for either the back or the front. Our results support the potential of using thermographic skin surface temperature to monitor exercise and recovery in athletes, as well as its use in rehabilitational exercise selection.

20.
J Funct Morphol Kinesiol ; 7(4)2022 Oct 27.
Artigo em Inglês | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36412757

RESUMO

Handgrip strength (HGS) appears to be an indicator of climbing performance. The transferability of HGS measurements obtained using a hand dynamometer and factors that influence the maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) are largely unclear. Forty-eight healthy subjects (27 female, 21 male; age: 22.46 ± 3.17 years; height: 172.76 ± 8.91 cm; weight: 69.07 ± 12.41 kg; body fat: 20.05% ± 7.95%) underwent a maximal pull-up test prior to the experiment and completed a self-assessment using a Likert scale questionnaire. HGS was measured using a hand dynamometer, whereas CSHT was measured using a fingerboard. Multiple linear regressions showed that weight, maximal number of pull-ups, HGS normalized by subject weight, and length of the middle finger had a significant effect on the maximal CSHT (non-dominant hand: R2corr = 0.63; dominant hand: R2corr = 0.55). Deeper exploration using a machine learning model including all available data showed a predictive performance with R2 = 0.51 and identified another relevant parameter for the regression model. These results call into question the use of hand dynamometers and highlight the performance-related importance of body weight in climbing practice. The results provide initial indications that finger length may be used as a sub-factor in talent scouting.

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