Analysis of Competition and Training Videos of Speed Climbing Athletes Using Feature and Human Body Keypoint Detection Algorithms.

Compared to 25 years ago, the climbing sport itself has changed dramatically. From a rock climbing modification to a separation in three independent disciplines, the requirements to athletes and trainers increased rapidly. To ensure continuous improvement of the sport itself, the usage of measurement and sensor technology is unavoidable. Especially in the field of the discipline speed climbing, which will be performed as a single discipline at the Olympic Games 2024 in Paris, the current state of the art of movement analysis only consists of video analysis and the benefit of the experience of trainers. Therefore, this paper presents a novel method, which supports trainers and athletes and enables analysis of motion sequences and techniques. Prerecorded video footage is combined with existing feature and human body keypoint detection algorithms and standardized boundary conditions. Therefore, several image processing steps are necessary to convert the recorded movement of different speed climbing athletes to significant parameters for detailed analysis. By studying climbing trials of professional athletes and the used techniques in different sections of the speed climbing wall, the aim among others is to get comparable results and detect mistakes. As a conclusion, the presented method enables powerful analysis of speed climbing training and competition and serves with the aid of a user-friendly designed interface as a support for trainers and athletes for the evaluation of motion sequences.

Importance of shoulder girdle and finger flexor muscle endurance in advanced male climbers.

Aim: This study aimed to: (a) assess the relationships between climbing performance and finger and shoulder girdle muscle endurance; and (b) provide evidence on the validity of the specialized exercise tests used for the purpose. Materials and methods: 28 male sport climbers (climbing ability 23 ± 2.43 IRCRA scale) performed four tests muscle failure, including two-finger hang tests (using 2.5 and 4 cm holds) and two variants of pull-up exercises (classical pull-ups and a combination of dynamic and isometric actions - the so-called Edlinger). Climbing performance and test results were subjected to correlation, taxonomic and regression analysis. Results: The correlations between the results from all tests and climbing performance were notably strong ( r between 0.54 and 0.61) and statistically significant ( p < 0.05 ). The taxonomic analysis indicated that the two variants of each test type reflect two different latent variables 2.5 cm and 4 cm finger hang durations were highly correlated ( r = 0.76 , p < 0.01 ). A similar correlation was found between the results from the pull-up tests ( r = 0.72 , p < 0.01 ). Thus, the finger hang and pull-up test results were determined to a high extent (43% and 49%, respectively) by factors that cannot be assessed when only one test of each type is used. The regression model of the two-finger tests allowed individual endurance profiles to be assessed. Conclusions: The muscular endurance of the elbow flexors and shoulder girdle muscles predicts climbing performance within the specific sport level studied to a comparable degree as finger flexor endurance.The use of two variants of a test intended to assess one physical ability provided important details on a climber's fitness.