Lipid uptake and skin occlusion following topical application of oils on adult and infant skin.

BACKGROUND: Topical application of oils and oil-based formulations is common practice in skin care for both adults and infants. Only limited knowledge however is available regarding skin penetration and occlusive potential of oils and common methods for measuring skin moisturization fall short when it comes to the moisturizing effect of oils. OBJECTIVE: In this study we used in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy to test the efficacy of paraffin oil (mineral oil) and two vegetable oils in terms of skin penetration and occlusion. Petrolatum was used as a positive control. METHODS: The products were applied topically on the forearms of nine volunteers and seven infants and Raman spectra were acquired before and at 30 and 90 min following application. Depth concentration profiles for lipid and water were calculated from the Raman spectra. Skin occlusion was assessed from the amount of stratum corneum (SC) swelling measured from the water concentration profiles. RESULTS: The paraffin oil and the vegetable oils penetrate the top layers of the SC with similar concentration profiles, a result that was confirmed both for adult and infant skin. The three oils tested demonstrated modest SC swelling (10-20%) compared to moderate swelling (40-60%) for petrolatum. CONCLUSION: These data indicate that there is no statistical difference between the paraffin oil and vegetable oils in terms of skin penetration and skin occlusion. The results for petrolatum show that in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy is sensitive and specific enough to measure both lipid uptake and skin occlusion events following topical application.

Retinoic acid increases aquaporin 3 expression in normal human skin.

We have investigated the effects of all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) on aquaporin 3 (AQP3) expression and function both in vitro and ex vivo. ATRA treatment provoked a rapid accumulation of AQP3 transcripts in cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). This increase was still observed 24 hours after application of ATRA. The induction of AQP3 gene was accompanied by an augmentation of immunoreactivity. Using a selective agonist, we demonstrated that the effect of ATRA was predominantly mediated by retinoic acid receptor subtype gamma (RARgamma). Incubation of NHEK in ATRA for 24, 48, and 72 hours stimulated glycerol influx, suggesting that the increase in AQP3 gene and protein expression was followed by an enhancement of biological activity. Topical application of ATRA for 24 hours on skin explants induced significant epidermal expression of AQP3 and strong immunoreactivity in the epidermal basal layers. Collectively, the present results show that ATRA increased AQP3 expression and enhanced biological activity in human skin.

Human collagen Krox up-regulates type I collagen expression in normal and scleroderma fibroblasts through interaction with Sp1 and Sp3 transcription factors.

Despite several investigations, the transcriptional mechanisms that regulate the expression of both type I collagen genes (COL1A1 and COL1A2) in either physiological or pathological situations, such as scleroderma, are not completely known. We have investigated the role of hc-Krox transcription factor on type I collagen expression by human dermal fibroblasts. hc-Krox exerted a stimulating effect on type I collagen protein synthesis and enhanced the corresponding mRNA steady-state levels of COL1A1 and COL1A2 in foreskin fibroblasts (FF), adult normal fibroblasts (ANF), and scleroderma fibroblasts (SF). Forced hc-Krox expression was found to up-regulate COL1A1 transcription through a -112/-61-bp sequence in FF, ANF, and SF. Knockdown of hc-Krox by short interfering RNA and decoy strategies confirmed the transactivating effect of hc-Krox and decreased substantially COL1A1 transcription levels in all fibro-blast types. The -112/-61-bp sequence bound specifically hc-Krox but also Sp1 and CBF. Attempts to elucidate the potential interactions between hc-Krox, Sp1, and Sp3 revealed that all of them co-immunoprecipitate from FF cellular extracts when a c-Krox antibody was used and bind to the COL1A1 promoter in chromatin immunoprecipitation assays. Moreover, hc-Krox DNA binding activity to its COL1A1-responsive element is increased in SF, cells producing higher amounts of type I collagen compared with ANF and FF. These data suggest that the regulation of COL1A1 gene transcription in human dermal fibroblasts involves a complex machinery that implicates at least three transcription proteins, hc-Krox, Sp1, and Sp3, which could act in concert to up-regulate COL1A1 transcriptional activity and provide evidence for a pro-fibrotic role of hc-Krox.