Screening Allergenic Potencies of Skin-Contact Products Using the Human-Derived THP-1 Cell Activation Test.

With the prevalence of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) from the usage of skin-contact products, like wearable, skin care, and hair care products, screening their skin sensitizing potential is necessary, for the sake of alleviating the consequent public health impact. In the present study, a total of 77 skin-contact products classified by four categories, watch bands (WBs), skin care products (SCPs), hair care products (HCPs), and rubber gloves (RGs), were investigated, using an optimized in vitro assay of human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). Extracting the products using neutral artificial sweat simulated well the practical usage scenarios, and testing the extracts showed that 26 of them were allergy test positive, including nine WBs, six SCPs, two HCPs, and nine RGs. The allergenic response was mainly characterized by the induction of CD54 expression, and diverse paradigms of CD54 and CD86 levels were observed by analyzing dose-response curves, which could also be influenced by the compromised viability of the THP-1 cells. The data implicated the intricate regulation by different contributors to suspicious ingredients in the test samples. Altogether, a promising methodology for testing skin allergy potential was well established for commonly used commodities by neutral artificial sweat extraction coupled with h-CLAT screening. The findings would be of great help in tracing the potential allergens in practical products and improving their qualities.

Allergen content of popular chemical hair relaxers: A product analysis.

BACKGROUND: Chemical hair relaxers are widely utilized by black women, yet little research exists on the allergens present in these products. OBJECTIVE: This study aims to investigate allergen prevalence in the most popular chemical hair relaxers. METHODS: We analysed 41 products from five major retailers, identifying allergens through ingredient lists and comparing them to the 2020 American Contact Dermatitis Group Core allergen series. RESULTS: The most common contact allergens in chemical relaxers include propylene glycol, cetyl steryl alcohol, fragrance, D/L-a-tocopherol, tea tree oil and cocamidopropyl betaine. CONCLUSION: Understanding allergen exposure in products used by individuals with textured hair is needed for managing contact dermatitis in diverse populations. This analysis underscores the presence of potential allergens in hair relaxers, emphasizing the importance of dermatologists' awareness and patient scrutiny of ingredient lists.

Occurrence of alkyl glucosides in rinse-off cosmetics marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin.

Rinse-off cosmetic products, primarily shampoos, are frequently implicated in the onset of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) caused by alkyl glucosides (AGs). AGs are increasingly popular surfactants and known contact allergens. Glucoside-induced ACD was most frequently observed with shampoos and skin-cleansing products in both consumer and occupational settings. Thereby, studies have shown that atopic individuals are the most susceptible to ACD. Also, several investigations have indicated that individuals with sensitive skin might be more prone to skin allergies. This is why the presence of AGs was investigated in shampoos and body cleansers marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin. For this purpose, the website of Amazon.com was surveyed. Four groups of cosmetics were obtained by using the following keywords: "hypoallergenic shampoo for adults," "sensitive skin shampoo for adults," "hypoallergenic body cleanser for adults," and "sensitive skin body cleanser for adults." The first 30 best-selling cosmetics in each group were investigated for the presence of AGs, by analyzing the product information pages. The results showed that as much as 56.7% of hypoallergenic shampoos contained AGs, as ingredients, whereas the percentage was somewhat lower for other product categories. Even though decyl and lauryl glucoside were nearly ubiquitously used AGs in cosmetics over the past decade, the most commonly present AG in our analysis was coco-glucoside. The results of this study indicated a necessity to include coco-glucoside in the baseline series of patch testing allergens. Industry, regulators, and healthcare providers should be made aware of the frequent presence of AGs in rinse-off cosmetic products marketed as hypoallergenic or for sensitive skin to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and patients.

Preliminary evaluation of a commercial shampoo and fine bubble bathing in the treatment of canine atopic dermatitis: A single-blinded, randomised, controlled study.

BACKGROUND: Fine bubble (FB) bathing has shown benefits on a mouse model of atopic dermatitis (AD). However, its efficacy in dogs with AD remains to be evaluated. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the clinical effectiveness of FB bathing in dogs with AD. ANIMALS: Seventeen dogs with AD whose clinical presentation showed a Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index, 4th iteration (CADESI-04) score of <40. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The dogs were randomly assigned to either the FB bathing group or the shampoo group. The treatments were administered once a week as per the instructions, in a trial totalling 4 weeks. Evaluations were conducted on Day (D)0 and D28 to assess the outcomes of the trial. The severity of AD was measured using the CADESI-04 and the pruritus Visual Analog Scale (PVAS). The skin barrier function parameters, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration were measured before and after the treatment. RESULTS: Both treatment groups demonstrated a decreasing trend in CADESI-04 scores, yet the FB group exhibited significant improvement in comparison to the shampoo group after 1 month of trial. There were no significant changes in PVAS scores in either group. No significant difference was found in skin barrier function parameters between the two treatments, although TEWL slightly decreased in the FB group and slightly increased in the shampoo group after treatment. CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL RELEVANCE: These results suggested that FB treatment provides benefits for dogs with AD and offers an alternative topical treatment option with a lesser impact on skin barrier function compared to frequent shampooing.

A Novel Ex Vivo Blinking Method for Comparing the Corneal Residence Time of New Shampoo Formulations.

In the cosmetics sector, many products such as shampoos have a probability of accidental ocular exposure during their routine use. One very specific safety parameter is the residence time of the substance on the corneal surface, as prolonged exposure may cause injury. In this study, we developed a system that simulates corneal exposure to blinking and tear flow, for comparing the corneal clearance times of viscous detergent formulations. The Ex Vivo Eye Irritation Test (EVEIT), which uses corneal explants from discarded rabbit eyes from an abattoir, was used as the basis for the new system. To simulate blinking, we developed a silicone wiping membrane to regularly move across the corneal surface, under conditions of constant addition and aspiration of fluid, to mimic tear flow. Six shampoo formulations were tested and were shown to differ widely in their corneal clearance time. Three groups could be identified according to the observed clearance times (fast, intermediate and slow); the reference shampoo had the shortest clearance time of all tested formulations. With this new system, it is now possible to investigate an important physicochemical parameter, i.e. corneal clearance time, for the consideration of ocular safety during the development of novel cosmetic formulations.

Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties.

OBJECTIVE: With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. METHODS: The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. RESULTS: The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. CONCLUSION: The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

OBJECTIF: Avec l'amélioration constante des concepts de soins de santé, les produits capillaires sans silicone ont attiré l'attention des consommateurs. Dans la présente étude, un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant des protéines a été fabriqué avec succès en mélangeant des tensioactifs doux sans sulfate, des conditionneurs cationiques composés, des substituts naturels de l'huile de silicone, des conditionneurs protéiques, des épaississants et d'autres ingrédients auxiliaires. On a étudié les effets du type de tensioactifs, de conditionneurs pour les cheveux et d'épaississants, du type et de la teneur en protéines et du rapport massique des protéines composées sur les performances de moussage des cheveux, du nettoyage des cheveux et de la pénétration. MÉTHODES: le cadre de formulation de base pour le shampooing transparent sans silicone a d'abord été établi. Ensuite, diverses protéines hydrolysées ont été ajoutées à la formulation de base sous forme d'utilisation unique ou d'utilisation de composés pour préparer un shampooing transparent sans silicone contenant différentes protéines. La morphologie des échantillons de cheveux et la pénétration des protéines dans les cheveux ont été évaluées à l'aide d'un microscope électronique a balayage et d'une microscopie confocale laser à fluorescence, respectivement. Les performances de nettoyage des cheveux ont également été déterminées par un testeur de peignage dynamique. RÉSULTATS: les protéines composées de Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD et de GluadinR Kera-PLM avec des rapports massiques de 1:9 et 1:1 à 2 % en poids de teneur en protéines totales ajoutées au shampooing sans silicone ont un angle de contact plus élevé et un coefficient de frottement plus faible que le shampooing sans silicone commercial sans protéines. En outre, les protéines composées ont également doublé l'effet d'adsorption à la surface des cheveux et de pénétration à l'intérieur des cheveux. CONCLUSION: la combinaison de protéines hydrolysées modifiées cationiques (par exemple, Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) et de protéines hydrolysées de faible poids moléculaire (par exemple, GluadinR Kera-P LM) avec un rapport massique approprié a montré un fort effet synergique sur les propriétés de conditionnement des cheveux. Il pourrait fournir une référence significative pour le développement de produits capillaires sans silicone avec plus d'avantages.

A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair.

OBJECTIVES: Through the cooperation with an industrial partner, we gained a set of data for the tensile properties (wet) of human hair. The hair samples originated from a cross-over study with two groups of individuals, using for a topical application sequentially two products (A and B). Each phase of the study lasted 6 months. The phases of the study by chance covered first largely the winter and then the summer period. Initially, tensile variables were chosen, which not only reflect the mechanical properties of hair (modulus, break strain, and break stress) but which are also considered to have a good connection to practice-relevant hair properties. The initial analysis of the data showed that changes were observed for the variables due to the treatment phases. However, these were either small or difficult to interpret. METHODS: Against this background and using two-factor analysis of variance, we investigated the hypothesis that the tensile properties of hair (wet) may show significant seasonal changes. For this, we chose those two independent variables, which reflect the properties of the intermediate filaments (modulus) and the matrix (break strain) in the composite structure of the hair cortex. RESULTS: The results support the 'seasonal' hypothesis and clearly show that the variables show significant changes from Winter to Summer (modulus: 10% increase; break strain: 3% decrease). The seasonal effect was thus a major reason, why the first stage of the analysis of the data was inconclusive. CONCLUSIONS: The tensile properties of the main morphological components of the cortex show distinct seasonal changes. Towards the summer, the hair becomes stiffer and more brittle. Furthermore, the results suggest that seasonal effects may need to be taken into account when conducting studies on lengths of hair grown during different seasons.

OBJECTIFS: Grâce à la coopération avec un partenaire industriel, nous avons obtenu un ensemble de données sur les propriétés de traction des cheveux (humides) humains. Les échantillons de cheveux provenaient d'une étude croisée avec deux groupes de personnes, utilisant pour une application topique deux produits (A et B) de manière séquentielle. Chaque phase de l'étude a duré 6 mois. Les phases de l'étude ont principalement couvert l'hiver, puis l'été. Initialement les variables de traction ont été choisies reflètent non seulement les propriétés mécaniques des cheveux (modulus, extension de rupture et stress de rupture), mais sont également considérées comme ayant un lien étroit avec les propriétés pertinentes des cheveux. L'analyse initiale des données a montré que des changements ont été observés pour les variables en raison des phases de traitement. Cependant, ils étaient faibles ou difficiles à interpréter. MÉTHODES: Dans ce contexte et à l'aide d'une analyse de variance à deux facteurs, nous avons étudié l'hypothèse selon laquelle les propriétés de traction des cheveux (humides) pourraient montrer des changements saisonniers significatifs. Pour cela, nous avons choisi ces deux variables indépendantes, qui reflètent les propriétés des filaments intermédiaires (modulus) et de la matrice (extension de rupture) dans la structure composite du cortex capillaire. RÉSULTATS: Les résultats appuient l'hypothèse « saisonnière ¼ et indiquent clairement que les variables montrent des évolutions significatives de l'hiver à l'été (modulus : augmentation de 10 % ; extension de rupture : diminution de 3 %). L'effet saisonnier était donc une raison majeure pour laquelle la première étape de l'analyse des données n'a pas été concluante. CONCLUSIONS: Les propriétés de traction des principaux composants morphologiques du cortex montrent des changements saisonniers distincts. Vers l'été, les cheveux deviennent plus raides et plus cassants. En outre, les résultats indiquent que les effets saisonniers devrait être pris en compte lors de la réalisation d'études sur les longueurs des cheveux ayant poussé à différentes saisons.

Scalp microbiome composition changes and pathway evaluations due to effective treatment with Piroctone Olamine shampoo.

OBJECTIVE: To characterize the scalp microbial composition, function, and connection to dandruff severity using a metagenomics approach and to understand the impact of a Piroctone Olamine containing anti-dandruff shampoo on the scalp microbiome. METHODS: Shotgun metagenomics was used to characterize the composition of the scalp microbiomes from 94 subjects with and without clinically defined dandruff. Furthermore, the microbiome of the scalps of 100 dandruff sufferers before and after 3 weeks of treatment with either control or anti-dandruff shampoo containing 0.5% Piroctone Olamine (PO) was characterized and compared to identify microorganisms associated with the dandruff condition and the associated pathways and processes that may contribute to PO's effect on scalp microbiome. RESULTS: A higher relative abundance of Malassezia restricta and Staphylococcus capitis and a lower abundance of Cutibacterium acnes were associated with the dandruff scalps relative to the no-dandruff scalps. A 3-week PO shampoo treatment reduced the relative abundance of Malassezia species and Staphylococcus capitis and increased the relative abundance of Cutibacterium acnes. This change to the scalp microbiome composition is consistent with a return to a healthy no-dandruff microbiome and improved clinical signs and symptoms as measured by adherent scalp flaking score (ASFS) compared with the control shampoo. Functional genomics analysis showed that the PO shampoo treatment reduced oxidative stress-associated genes and decreased the abundance of protease, urease, and lipase genes. These changes correlated positively to improvements in dandruff severity. PO treatment favourably shifted scalp microbiomes in dandruff subjects toward the no-dandruff state. CONCLUSION: Our results suggest that part of the aetiology of dandruff can be attributed to dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. PO treatment can restore a healthier microbiome, reducing oxidative stress and promoting better scalp health.

OBJECTIF: Caractériser la composition microbienne du cuir chevelu, sa fonction et son lien avec la sévérité des pellicules à l'aide d'une approche métagénomique. Comprendre l'impact d'un shampooing antipelliculaire à base de piroctone olamine sur le microbiome du cuir chevelu. MÉTHODES: La métagénomique shotgun a été utilisée pour caractériser la composition des microbiomes du cuir chevelu de 94 sujets avec et sans pellicules définies cliniquement. Par ailleurs, le microbiome des cuirs chevelus de 100 personnes ayant des pellicules avant et après trois semaines de traitement par un shampooing témoin ou un shampooing antipelliculaire contenant 0,5 % de piroctone olamine (PO) a été caractérisé et comparé pour identifier les micro­organismes associés à l'état pelliculaire, et les voies et processus associés pouvant contribuer à l'effet de la PO sur le microbiome du cuir chevelu. RÉSULTATS: Une abondance relative plus élevée de Malassezia restricta et de Staphylococcus capitis, et une abondance plus faible de Cutibacterium acnes étaient associées aux cuirs chevelus avec des pellicules par rapport aux cuirs chevelus sans pellicules. Un traitement avec un shampooing contenant de la PO de 3 semaines a réduit l'abondance relative des espèces Malassezia et Staphylococcus capitis, et a augmenté l'abondance relative de Cutibacterium acnes. Cette modification de la composition du microbiome du cuir chevelu est cohérente avec un retour à un microbiome sain sans pellicules, et une amélioration des signes et symptômes cliniques mesurés par le score de desquamation du cuir chevelu adhérent (Adherent Scalp Flaking Score, ASFS) par rapport au shampooing témoin. L'analyse génomique fonctionnelle a montré que le traitement avec un shampooing contenant de la PO réduisait les gènes associés au stress oxydatif et diminuait l'abondance des gènes de la protéase, de l'uréase et de la lipase. Ces modifications étaient corrélées positivement à des améliorations de la sévérité des pellicules. Le traitement avec la PO a favorisé l'évolution des microbiomes du cuir chevelu des sujets ayant des pellicules vers un état sans pellicules. CONCLUSION: Nos résultats suggèrent qu'une partie de l'étiologie des pellicules peut être attribuée à la dysbiose du microbiome du cuir chevelu. Le traitement avec la PO peut rétablir un microbiome plus sain, en réduisant le stress oxydatif et en favorisant une meilleure santé du cuir chevelu.

Diagnostics and Prevention of Occupational Allergy in Hairdressers.

PURPOSE OF REVIEW: This study aims to provide an overview on current knowledge on occupational allergic diseases in hairdressers and up-to-date perspectives of prevention. RECENT FINDINGS: Hand eczema (dermatitis) is common in hairdressers, often caused by contact allergy to one or multiple small molecules (haptens) used, e.g., for dyeing, bleaching, and waving/relaxing or by ancillary substances such as preservatives. Hairdressers, compared to other patch-tested patients, have an up to fivefold increased risk to be found sensitized, e.g., against p-phenylenediamine, ammonium persulfate, and glyceryl thioglycolate. Some of these small molecules may induce respiratory sensitization causing allergic rhinitis and/or asthma, notably persulfate salts. Occupational hazards in hairdressing are well described. This knowledge needs to be put into use for risk reduction, mainly by substitution of allergenic ingredients by less allergenic ones, education, and use of ventilation and suitable single-use gloves.

Siloxane Emissions and Exposures during the Use of Hair Care Products in Buildings.

Cyclic volatile methyl siloxanes (cVMS) are ubiquitous in hair care products (HCPs). cVMS emissions from HCPs are of concern, given the potential adverse impact of siloxanes on the environment and human health. To characterize cVMS emissions and exposures during the use of HCPs, realistic hair care experiments were conducted in a residential building. Siloxane-based HCPs were tested using common hair styling techniques, including straightening, curling, waving, and oiling. VOC concentrations were measured via proton-transfer-reaction time-of-flight mass spectrometry. HCP use drove rapid changes in the chemical composition of the indoor atmosphere. cVMS dominated VOC emissions from HCP use, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) contributed the most to cVMS emissions. cVMS emission factors (EFs) during hair care routines ranged from 110-1500 mg/person and were influenced by HCP type, styling tools, operation temperatures, and hair length. The high temperature of styling tools and the high surface area of hair enhanced VOC emissions. Increasing the hair straightener temperature from room temperature to 210 °C increased cVMS EFs by 50-310%. Elevated indoor cVMS concentrations can result in substantial indoor-to-outdoor transport of cVMS via ventilation (0.4-6 tons D5/year in the U.S.); thus, hair care routines may augment the abundance of cVMS in the outdoor atmosphere.

Hair relaxer use and risk of uterine cancer in the Black Women's Health Study.

BACKGROUND: Chemical hair relaxers, use of which is highly prevalent among Black women in the US, have been inconsistently linked to risk of estrogen-dependent cancers, such as breast cancer, and other reproductive health conditions. Whether hair relaxer use increases risk of uterine cancer is unknown. METHODS: In the Black Women's Health Study, 44,798 women with an intact uterus who self-identified as Black were followed from 1997, when chemical hair relaxer use was queried, until 2019. Over follow-up, 347 incident uterine cancers were diagnosed. We used multivariable Cox proportional hazards regression models, adjusted for age and other potential confounders, to estimate hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) for associations of hair relaxer use with risk of uterine cancer. RESULTS: Compared to women who never used hair relaxers or used them infrequently (<4 years and ≤1-2 times/year), the HR for uterine cancer associated with heavy use (≥15 years and at least 5 times/year) was 1.18 (95% CI: 0.81, 1.71). However, among postmenopausal women, compared to never/light use, the HR for moderate use was 1.60 (95% CI: 1.01, 2.53), the HR for heavy use was 1.64 (1.01, 2.64), and the HR for ≥20 years of use regardless of frequency was 1.71 (1.08, 2.72). Results among premenopausal women were null. CONCLUSIONS: In this large cohort of Black women, long-term use of chemical hair relaxers was associated with increased risk of uterine cancer among postmenopausal women, but not among premenopausal women. These findings suggest that hair relaxer use may be a potentially modifiable risk factor for uterine cancer.

Comparative study of instrumental measurement and sensory evaluation methods for the repairing effect of mildly damaged hair bundles.

OBJECTIVE: This study explores the applicability and scientific accuracy of instrument measurements in repairing hair products on slightly damaged hair bundles. MATERIALS AND METHOD: Sixty hair bundles mildly damaged with hydrogen peroxide and ammonia standards were divided into two groups: the treatment and control groups (30 hair bundles each). The treatment group used commercial hair care essential oil, whereas the control group used tap water to treat the damage. The two groups were measured using an instrument before and after the product application. The objective indicators included the gloss of hair, along with hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient, and against hair cuticle dynamic friction coefficient. At the same time, two evaluators conducted sensory evaluations on the gloss and frizz levels of the hair bundles. Therefore, data comparison and verification were carried out together with instrumental measurement data. RESULTS: We verified that the instrumental measurement methods could obtain data trends that are consistent with sensory assessment methods; hence, they have the advantages of accuracy, convenience, and quantifiability. CONCLUSION: Thus, the instrumental measurement methods we verified can provide objective evidence for the efficacy of hair care products in repairing hair.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models.

OBJECTIVE: Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber. RESULTS: To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution. CONCLUSION: Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Assessment of the photoprotection properties of hair cosmetics using the hemispherical directional reflectance method.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiation is responsible for changes in the structure of human hair, the damages include proteins (65%-95%), lipids, and melanin. The aim was to examine the effectiveness of sunscreen in hair cosmetics and whether hair color affects it. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The study included nine women, divided according to hair color to three groups: light, dark, and gray hair. The 410-Solar reflectometer was used in five time points. The hair was divided into three strands, one product applied to each. RESULTS: Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, the reflectance before products application was significantly higher than the hair reflectance immediately after application. The effect of sunscreens on light hair reflectance was found at wavelengths 400 and 720 nm and between 1000 and 2500 nm, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than the reflectance after. The use of products on gray hair did not have a significant effect on hair reflectance at wavelengths 400-1100 nm, the effect of sunscreens on the gray hair reflectance was observed in the UV and infrared range, the reflectance before application was significantly higher than immediately after. CONCLUSIONS: The results showed that the 410-Solar reflectometer is useful to assess the effectiveness of hair sunscreens. All three tested hair products do not show the expected protection properties. Dark hair showed the highest absorption of radiation in all wavelength ranges, suggesting that dark hair should be more protected against radiation than light and gray hair.

A comparison of dyeing efficacy between hair-oxidation-based and hair-coating-based shampoos for the treatment of gray hair.

BACKGROUND: The process of hair dyeing causes hair damage, and periodic re-dyeing is required for newly grown hair. To avoid these hassles, hair color shampoos have been developed and are widely used. In this study, we compared the effects of two hair color shampoos with different dyeing principles to analyze the function of hair color shampoos. We analyzed hair tresses treated by hair-oxidation- and hair-coating-based shampoos. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We measured the color, tensile properties, softness, elasticity, gloss, moisture content, and protein content of the hair tresses dyed with color shampoos. The hair structures were analyzed by scanning and transmission electron microscopies (SEM and TEM) and a hydroxy radical-based method. RESULTS: The shampoo based on hair coating enhanced the hair dyeing effect and roughness, whereas that based on hair oxidation improved the color retention and moisture content in the hair tresses. Frictional resistance, gloss, and elasticity of the hair tresses were similar for the two products. However, according to the results of the protein loss test, TEM, and hydroxyl radical staining, the shampoo based on hair oxidation showed a longer dyeing retention compared to that based on hair coating but caused cuticle damage. CONCLUSION: These results show that the two shampoos with different dyeing principles exhibit different hair dyeing abilities and hair health indices. Therefore, we recommend that hair color shampoos should be used according to the requirements of an individual.

Development of a three-point cantilever bending technique to study the mechanical properties of hair styling ingredients.

BACKGROUND: The mechanical properties of hair treated with styling ingredients is an important aspect to determine if products will be efficacious when used by the consumer. Measurement techniques have been proposed in earlier work; however, these are mostly aimed at hairspray systems and not the myriad of styling products available to the modern-day consumer. AIM: In this article, experimental and data analysis guidelines are proposed for the evaluation of styling ingredients using a three-point cantilever bending technique. Most of the experiments were carried out on polysaccharide-based ingredients-guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Guar HPTC) and cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Cassia HPTC)-to establish basic characterization concepts of the polymer-fiber assemblies. METHODS: A three-point cantilever bending technique was developed using a texture analyzer housed in a temperature and humidity-controlled chamber. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies were conducted to monitor the fracture mechanics of polymer-fiber assemblies. RESULTS: Fundamental studies were carried out to determine the effect of concentration, molecular weight (MW), and chemistry of the polysaccharides on the calculated indices, which characterize the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of the treated hair. Experiments were conducted in a controlled temperature and humidity environment, which allowed us to monitor the behavior of the polymer-treated hair from 40-90% RH. Studies were also conducted on polymer blends and conventional styling polymers to provide guidance of the performance of naturally-derived polymers to their synthetic counterparts. CONCLUSIONS: A detailed description is provided for a user-friendly, quick method to measure the mechanical properties of styling ingredients on hair. We provide guidelines for three-point cantilever bending tests of straight hair tresses treated with conventional and naturally-derived styling polymers. Indices were developed to characterize the force-distance curves and were designated as E1, F1, position of F1, post-fracture gradient, toughness, E10/E1, and F10/F1. These indices provide an overall characterization of the stiffness, flexibility, elasticity, and plasticity of polymer-treated hair.

Bleaching powders, bleaching creams and other hair lightening preparations as sources for (airborne) allergic contact dermatitis and other health effects in hairdressers: Results of an empirical study.

BACKGROUND: Various products are available for lightening hair. There are no data on which applications are actually used in hairdressing, impeding proper estimation of actual exposure and necessary preventive measures. OBJECTIVES: To assess information about availability, usage and formulation of lightening preparations in the German hairdressing trade. METHODS: A market survey was conducted and hairdressers were surveyed by online questionnaires. RESULTS: Of 783 hairdressers clicking the link, 565 hairdressers (91.2% female, mean age of 40.2 ± 11.7 years) from all German states responded (response rate: 72.2%). The questionnaire survey has shown that available hair-lightening preparations in the German hairdressing trade are (multiple selection possible): dust-free (88.5%) and non-dust-free bleaching powders (22.1%), bleaching creams (41.9%), high-lifting hair colour creams (88.8%) and normal hair colour creams (58.4%). Five hundred eighteen (91.7%) hairdressers favour lightening hair with powder. The market survey revealed that bleaching powders and creams contain potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and sodium persulfate or combinations of these persulfate salts. CONCLUSIONS: Hairdressers are exposed to various hair-lightening applications containing different chemicals. Preventive measures need to address adverse skin and respiratory effects. Implementation of targeted health education already in early career stages (i.e., apprenticeship) seems advisable and can be maintained by refresher trainings.

Contact allergy to ingredients of hair cosmetics in female hairdressers and female consumers-An update based on IVDK data 2013-2020.

BACKGROUND: Hair cosmetic products contain several, partly potent contact allergens, including excipients like preservatives. Hand dermatitis in hairdressers is common, scalp and face dermatitis in clients or self-users (summarised here as 'consumers') may be severe. OBJECTIVE: To compare frequencies of sensitization to hair cosmetic ingredients and other selected allergens between female patch tested patients working as hairdressers and consumers without professional background, respectively, who were tested for suspected allergic contact dermatitis to such products. METHODS: Patch test and clinical data collected by the IVDK (https://www.ivdk.org) between 01/2013 and 12/2020 were descriptively analysed, focusing on age-adjusted sensitization prevalences in the two subgroups. RESULTS: Amongst the 920 hairdressers (median age: 28 years, 84% hand dermatitis) and 2321 consumers (median age: 49 years, 71.8% head/face dermatitis), sensitization to p-phenylenediamine (age-standardised prevalence: 19.7% and 31.6%, respectively) and toluene-2,5-diamine (20 and 30.8%) were most common. Contact allergy to other oxidative hair dye ingredients was also more commonly diagnosed in consumers, whereas ammonium persulphate (14.4% vs. 2.3%) and glyceryl thioglycolate (3.9 vs. 1.2%) as well as most notably methylisothiazolinone (10.5% vs. 3.1%) were more frequent allergens in hairdressers. CONCLUSIONS: Hair dyes were the most frequent sensitizers both in hairdressers and in consumers; however, as indication for patch testing may differ, prevalences cannot directly be compared. The importance of hair dye allergy is evident, often with marked coupled reactivity. Workplace and product safety need to be further improved.

Systematic review on skin adverse effects of important hazardous hair cosmetic ingredients with a focus on hairdressers.

BACKGROUND: The burden of occupational hand eczema in hairdressers is high, and (partly strong) allergens abound in the hair cosmetic products they use. OBJECTIVES: To systematically review published evidence concerning contact allergy to an indicative list of active ingredients of hair cosmetics, namely, p-phenylenediamine (PPD), toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD), persulfates, mostly ammonium persulfate (APS), glyceryl thioglycolate (GMTG), and ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), concerning the prevalence of sensitization, particularly in terms of a comparison (relative risk; RR) between hairdressers and non-hairdressers. METHODS: Following a PROSPERO-registered and published protocol, eligible literature published from 2000 to February 2021 was identified, yielding 322 publications, and extracted in standardized publication record forms, also considering risk of bias. RESULTS: Based on 141 publications, the contact allergy prevalence to PPD was 4.3% (95% CI: 3.8-4.9%) in consecutively patch tested patients. Other ingredients were mostly tested in an aimed fashion, yielding variable, and partly high contact allergy prevalences. Where possible, the RR was calculated, yielding an average increased sensitization risk in hairdressers of between 5.4 (PPD) and 3.4 (ATG). Additional evidence related to immediate-type hypersensitivity, experimental results, exposures, and information from case reports was qualitatively synthesized. CONCLUSIONS: An excess risk of contact allergy is clearly evident from the pooled published evidence from the last 20 years. This should prompt an improvement in working conditions and product safety.

Evaluating the Impact of Hair Care Product Exposure on Hair Follicle and Scalp Health.

Human hair follicles traverse the epidermis and dermis, and are comprised of specialised cells including dermal papilla cells (DPCs). DPCs play a critical role in the development and growth of both hair and follicle structure. While exposure of DPCs to undiluted exogenous compounds is unlikely, exposure to diluted compounds is possible should dermal penetration occur. The goal of this study was to evaluate the impact on hair and scalp health following application of a hair care product. Due to the lack of standardised and validated test systems for evaluating hair follicle health, the HairSkin® model, which uses intact human scalp samples, was adapted to evaluate hair follicle and scalp health. Similarly, the Franz diffusion cell assay and matrix-assisted laser desorption ionisation-Fourier transform ion cyclotron resonance (MALDI-FTICR) were adapted to evaluate dermal penetration. The results of this study demonstrate that application of the hair care product does not result in appreciable dermal penetration, suggesting that DPCs are unlikely to be exposed to undiluted product. Additionally, hair follicle health was not impacted following product application. While this study is exploratory, these results suggest that the combination of test systems utilised herein provides valuable insight and warrants further development and validation.