Type 1 Treg cells promote the generation of CD8+ tissue-resident memory T cells.

Tissue-resident memory T (TRM) cells, functionally distinct from circulating memory T cells, have a critical role in protective immunity in tissues, are more efficacious when elicited after vaccination and yield more effective antitumor immunity, yet the signals that direct development of TRM cells are incompletely understood. Here we show that type 1 regulatory T (Treg) cells, which express the transcription factor T-bet, promote the generation of CD8+ TRM cells. The absence of T-bet-expressing type 1 Treg cells reduces the presence of TRM cells in multiple tissues and increases pathogen burden upon infectious challenge. Using infection models, we show that type 1 Treg cells are specifically recruited to local inflammatory sites via the chemokine receptor CXCR3. Close proximity with effector CD8+ T cells and Treg cell expression of integrin-ß8 endows the bioavailability of transforming growth factor-ß in the microenvironment, thereby promoting the generation of CD8+ TRM cells.

Intestinal tissue-resident T cell activation depends on metabolite availability.

The metabolic capacity of many cells is tightly regulated and can adapt to changes in metabolic resources according to environmental changes. Tissue-resident memory (TRM) CD8+ T cells are one of the most abundant T cell populations and offer rapid protection against invading pathogens, especially at the epithelia. TRM cells metabolically adapt to their tissue niche, such as the intestinal epithelial barrier. In the small intestine, the types of TRM cells are intraepithelial lymphocytes (IELs), which contain high levels of cytotoxic molecules and express activation markers, suggesting a heightened state of activation. We hypothesize that the tissue environment may determine IEL activity. We show that IEL activation, in line with its semiactive status, is metabolically faster than circulating CD8+ T cells. IEL glycolysis and oxidative phosphorylation (OXPHOS) are interdependently regulated and are dependent on rapid access to metabolites from the environment. IELs are restrained by local availability of metabolites, but, especially, glucose levels determine their activity. Importantly, this enables functional control of intestinal TRM cells by metabolic means within the fragile environment of the intestinal epithelial barrier.

RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN RESIDUAL DIURESIS AND SARCOPENIA IN PATIENTS ON HEMODIALYSIS.

OBJECTIVE: To assess the association of residual diuresis with sarcopenia in patients with Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD) on hemodialysis. METHODS: Through a cross-sectional study, patients on hemodialysis were subjected to a Dual Energy Radiologic Absorption (DEXA) exam to record muscle mass. Based on the volume of urine collected in 24 hours, patients were classified as anuric (diuresis ≤ 100 mL/day) or non-anuric (diuresis > 100 mL/day). Functional performance was evaluated by Short Physical Performance Battery (SPPB) and muscle strength by handgrip strength and 5-repetition sit-to-stand test. The association between the absence of residual urine and the presence of sarcopenia, low SPPB, and low muscle strength was analyzed using a binary logistic regression model. RESULTS: Ninety-two patients, with a mean age of 54.4 years (95% CI 51.3 - 57.4) and with a mean diuresis volume of 476.3 mL/day (95% CI 320.4 - 632.2) were evaluated (48 anuric and 44 non-anuric). Anuric patients had a 2.77 (95% CI 1.14 - 6.73) times greater probability of sarcopenia and had a 3.55 (1.14 - 11.0) times greater probability of low SPPB, regardless of gender, age, and time on dialysis. Gender was the other associated variable for the presence of sarcopenia, with males having a 3.30 (95% CI 1.34 - 8.13) times higher risk. There were no associations with muscle strength. CONCLUSION: The absence of residual diuresis in patients on hemodialysis is associated with a higher risk of sarcopenia and low functional performance.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts.

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

On the hormonal control of posterior regeneration in the annelid Platynereis dumerilii.

Regeneration is the process by which many animals are able to restore lost or injured body parts. After amputation of the posterior part of its body, the annelid Platynereis dumerilii is able to regenerate the pygidium, the posteriormost part of its body that bears the anus, and a subterminal growth zone containing stem cells that allows the subsequent addition of new segments. The ability to regenerate their posterior part (posterior regeneration) is promoted, in juvenile worms, by a hormone produced by the brain and is lost when this hormonal activity becomes low at the time the worms undergo their sexual maturation. By characterizing posterior regeneration at the morphological and molecular levels in worms that have been decapitated, we show that the presence of the head is essential for multiple aspects of posterior regeneration, as well as for the subsequent production of new segments. We also show that methylfarnesoate, the molecule proposed to be the brain hormone, can partially rescue the posterior regeneration defects observed in decapitated worms. Our results are therefore consistent with a key role of brain hormonal activity in the control of regeneration and growth in P. dumerilii, and support the hypothesis of the involvement of methylfarnesoate in this control.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol. RESULTS: Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in ß-pleated sheet conformation of keratin. CONCLUSION: Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties.

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 22 full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Distinct patterns of gene expression during regeneration and asexual reproduction in the annelid Pristina leidyi.

Regeneration, the ability to replace lost body parts, is a widespread phenomenon in the animal kingdom often connected to asexual reproduction or fission, since the only difference between the two appears to be the stimulus that triggers them. Both developmental processes have largely been characterized; however, the molecular toolkit and genetic mechanisms underlying these events remain poorly unexplored. Annelids, in particular the oligochaete Pristina leidyi, provide a good model system to investigate these processes as they show diverse ways to regenerate, and can reproduce asexually through fission under laboratory conditions. Here, we used a comparative transcriptomics approach based on RNA-sequencing and differential gene expression analyses to understand the molecular mechanisms involved in anterior regeneration and asexual reproduction. We found 291 genes upregulated during anterior regeneration, including several regeneration-related genes previously reported in other annelids such as frizzled, paics, and vdra. On the other hand, during asexual reproduction, 130 genes were found upregulated, and unexpectedly, many of them were related to germline development during sexual reproduction. We also found important differences between anterior regeneration and asexual reproduction, with the latter showing a gene expression profile more similar to that of control individuals. Nevertheless, we identified 35 genes that were upregulated in both conditions, many of them related to cell pluripotency, stem cells, and cell proliferation. Overall, our results shed light on the molecular mechanisms that control anterior regeneration and asexual reproduction in annelids and reveal similarities with other animals, suggesting that the genetic machinery controlling these processes is conserved across metazoans.

Determining factors of functioning in hemodialysis patients using the international classification of functioning, disability and health.

BACKGROUND: Hemodialysis (HD) treatment affects functioning, physical activity level, clinical biomarkers, and body composition. However, the association between these variables with functioning, considering International Classification of Functioning, Disability and Health (ICF) domains remains unclear. Thus, the aim of this study was to investigate the possible association between physical activity, biomarkers, and body composition with functioning in HD patients in reference to the ICF. METHODS: Eighty HD patients performed different tests grouped according to ICF domain: Body structure and function - handgrip strength (HS), 5-repetition sit-to-stand test, and 60-s sit-to-stand test (5-STS, 60-STS, respectively); Activity - short physical performance battery (SPPB); and Participation - participation scale questionnaire. Physical activity [Human Activity Profile questionnaire (HAP)], body composition (Dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry), Parathormone (PTH), and alkaline phosphatase were analyzed as possible variables associated with ICF domains. Data analyses were performed using simple and multiple regression models adjusted for age, duration of HD, and diuresis volume. RESULTS: In the body structure and function domain, appendicular lean mass, PTH level, and age were associated with HS (R2 = 0.558); HAP and PTH were associated with 5-STS (R2 = 0.263); and HAP, PTH, duration of HD, and age were associated with 60-STS (R2 = 0.337). In the activity domain, HAP, PTH, alkaline phosphatase, duration of HD, age, and body fat were associated with SPPB (R2 = 0.689). Finally, only HAP was associated with the participation scale (R2 = 0.067). CONCLUSION: Physical activity and PTH levels are determinant protagonists of functioning in all ICF domains in hemodialysis patients.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies. METHODS: The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use. RESULTS: The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported. CONCLUSIONS: All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

OBJECTIF: évaluer la sécurité d'emploi et les effets synergiques des associations d'huiles essentielles d'arbre à thé, de lavande, d'eucalyptus et de mandarine sur la peau à l'aide d'études in vitro, ex vivo et cliniques. MÉTHODES: la phototoxicité a été prédite avec le test de phototoxicité de fixation du rouge neutre 3T3 (OCDE TG 432). La pénétration cutanée a été évaluée par microspectroscopie confocale de Raman grâce à l'application directe d'huiles essentielles sur les oreilles de cochons. Pour les études cliniques, 40 participants ont été inclus et randomisés dans trois groupes : (1) lavande, eucalyptus et mandarine, (2) les mêmes huiles essentielles plus melaleuca et (3) un groupe placebo. La peau a été évaluée par des techniques non invasives avant et après une période d'utilisation topique de 90 jours. RÉSULTATS: les huiles essentielles se sont avérées non phototoxiques, mais l'huile de mandarine a montré une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante (CI 50 : 33,1 µg/ml), représentant 35 % de pénétration dans l'épiderme viable. À l'inverse, dans l'étude clinique, une quantité de 17,7 µg/ml par jour en association a été appliquée, et le taux de pénétration des associations (10 %, soit 1,77 µg/ml atteignant l'épiderme viable) a garanti la sécurité d'emploi, puisque dans l'étude clinique, l'application des quatre huiles essentielles a amélioré la barrière cutanée et les caractéristiques morphologiques de la peau, et a entraîné une augmentation de l'hydratation cutanée et une diminution des taux de sébum, sans signalement d'effets indésirables. CONCLUSIONS: chacune des huiles essentielles étudiées a été considérée comme non cytotoxique ou non phototoxique, à l'exception de la mandarine, qui présente une cytotoxicité dose-dépendante. Enfin, l'association d'huiles essentielles en quantité appropriée a démontré sa sécurité d'emploi et son efficacité dans l'amélioration de l'équilibre hydrolipidique et des propriétés morphologiques de la peau.

Film-Forming Properties of Topical Formulations for Skin and Hair: In Vivo and In Vitro Studies Using Biophysical and Imaging Techniques.

The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film-forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirulina maxima extract after their application to skin and hair, using sensorial analysis and instrumental measurements, with emphasis on reflectance confocal microscopy. Two formulations based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin containing or not (Vehicle) a Spirulina maxima dry extract were developed. The rheological behavior and sensorial properties of both formulations were evaluated. The film-forming property on the skin was evaluated in terms of skin hydration by RCM imaging analysis and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The hair tresses were evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and RCM imaging analysis. The formulations showed pseudoplastic behavior and a low hysteresis area. In addition, the presence of Spirulina in the formulation did not interfere in the rheological parameters. Both formulations reduced TEWL and maintained the stratum corneum water content. The protective effect was also observed in the hair, since the application of the formulation with Spirulina showed a better performance in the tensile test when compared to vehicle. Thus, the proposed formulation showed film formation on the skin and hair surface that brought immediate benefits such as a reduction of TEWL. Finally, the formulations were shown to have film-forming effects and their use can be suggested for skin and hair protection against daily damage.

Humoral Immune Response of SARS-CoV-2-Infected Patients with Cancer: Influencing Factors and Mechanisms.

BACKGROUND: Severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2)-infected patients with cancer show worse outcomes compared with patients without cancer. The humoral immune response (HIR) of patients with cancer against SARS-CoV-2 is not well characterized. To better understand it, we conducted a serological study of hospitalized patients with cancer infected with SARS-CoV-2. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This was a unicentric, retrospective study enrolling adult patients with SARS-CoV-2 admitted to a central hospital from March 15 to June 17, 2020, whose serum samples were quantified for anti-SARS-CoV-2 receptor-binding domain or spike protein IgM, IgG, and IgA antibodies. The aims of the study were to assess the HIR to SARS-CoV-2; correlate it with different cancer types, stages, and treatments; clarify the interplay between the HIR and clinical outcomes of patients with cancer; and compare the HIR of SARS-CoV-2-infected patients with and without cancer. RESULTS: We included 72 SARS-CoV-2-positive subjects (19 with cancer, 53 controls). About 90% of controls revealed a robust serological response. Among patients with cancer, a strong response was verified in 57.9%, with 42.1% showing a persistently weak response. Treatment with chemotherapy within 14 days before positivity was the only factor statistically shown to be associated with persistently weak serological responses among patients with cancer. No significant differences in outcomes were observed between patients with strong and weak responses. All IgG, IgM, IgA, and total Ig antibody titers were significantly lower in patients with cancer compared with those without. CONCLUSION: A significant portion of patients with cancer develop a proper HIR. Recent chemotherapy treatment may be associated with weak serological responses among patients with cancer. Patients with cancer have a weaker SARS-CoV-2 antibody response compared with those without cancer. IMPLICATIONS FOR PRACTICE: These results place the spotlight on patients with cancer, particularly those actively treated with chemotherapy. These patients may potentially be more vulnerable to severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2) infection, so it is important to provide oncologists further theoretical support (with concrete examples and respective mechanistic correlations) for the decision of starting, maintaining, or stopping antineoplastic treatments (particularly chemotherapy) not only on noninfected but also on infected patients with cancer in accordance with cancer type, stage and prognosis, treatment agents, treatment setting, and SARS-CoV-2 infection risks.

Seroprevalence of anti-SARS-CoV-2 antibodies in COVID-19 patients and healthy volunteers up to 6 months post disease onset.

SARS-CoV-2 has emerged as a human pathogen, causing clinical signs, from fever to pneumonia-COVID-19-but may remain mild or asymptomatic. To understand the continuing spread of the virus, to detect those who are and were infected, and to follow the immune response longitudinally, reliable and robust assays for SARS-CoV-2 detection and immunological monitoring are needed. We quantified IgM, IgG, and IgA antibodies recognizing the SARS-CoV-2 receptor-binding domain (RBD) or the Spike (S) protein over a period of 6 months following COVID-19 onset. We report the detailed setup to monitor the humoral immune response from over 300 COVID-19 hospital patients and healthcare workers, 2500 University staff, and 198 post-COVID-19 volunteers. Anti-SARS-CoV-2 antibody responses follow a classic pattern with a rapid increase within the first three weeks after symptoms. Although titres reduce subsequently, the ability to detect anti-SARS-CoV-2 IgG antibodies remained robust with confirmed neutralization activity for up to 6 months in a large proportion of previously virus-positive screened subjects. Our work provides detailed information for the assays used, facilitating further and longitudinal analysis of protective immunity to SARS-CoV-2. Importantly, it highlights a continued level of circulating neutralising antibodies in most people with confirmed SARS-CoV-2.

Oral Supplementation with Hydrolyzed Fish Cartilage Improves the Morphological and Structural Characteristics of the Skin: A Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study.

Collagen and its peptides are natural ingredients used in food supplements and nutricosmetics with the claim of providing benefits for skin health and beauty. In this context, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of oral supplementation with hydrolyzed fish cartilage for the improvement of chronological and photoaging-induced skin changes. A total of 46 healthy females aged 45 to 59 years were enrolled and divided into two groups: G1-placebo and G2-oral treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. Measurements of skin wrinkles, dermis echogenicity and thickness, and morphological and structural characteristics of the skin were performed in the nasolabial region of the face before and after a 90-day period of treatment using high-resolution imaging, ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy image analyses. A significant reduction in wrinkles and an increase of dermis echogenicity were observed after a 90-day period of treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage compared to the placebo and baseline values. In addition, reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) image analysis showed improved collagen morphology and reduced elastosis after treatment with hydrolyzed fish cartilage. The present study showed the clinical benefits for the skin obtained with oral supplementation with a low dose of collagen peptides from hydrolyzed fish cartilage.

Skin photoaging in young men: A clinical study by skin imaging techniques.

OBJECTIVE: Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques. METHODS: Twenty-three male, aged 18-28 years, with and without photoprotection habits participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of dermis thickness and echogenicity (20 mHz ultrasound - DermaScanC® ), morphological and structural skin characterization (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope® 1500) and high-resolution imaging (Visioface® ) were performed in the malar region of the face. RESULTS: Pigmentation disorders, telangiectasia, wrinkles and lower dermis echogenicity were observed in the skin of subjects without photoprotection habits. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images showed an irregular honeycomb pattern (35%), polycyclic papillae (40%) and coarse collagen fibres (35%), which are related to photoaging. CONCLUSION: Sun exposure without photoprotection results in a loss of dermal echogenicity and changes in the epidermis structure and collagen fibres regardless of chronological age. Thus, the study adds data for a discussion about correct photoprotection habits among young people and can help to increase the use of sunscreens for male public.

OBJECTIFS: Les différences de physiologie cutanée et de mode de vie peuvent influer sur les lésions cutanées causées par le rayonnement solaire. Les habitudes de photoprotection jouent un rôle important dans la prévention du photovieillissement cutané. Dans ce contexte, l'objectif de l'étude était d'évaluer les changements cutanés résultants de l'exposition au soleil chez les jeunes hommes à l'aide de techniques d'imagerie cutanée. MÉTHODES: L'étude a inclus 23 hommes, âgés de 18 à 28 ans, avec et sans habitudes de photoprotection. Des mesures instrumentales d'épaisseur et d'échogénicité du derme (échographie 20 mHz - DermaScanC®), de caractérisation morphologique et structurale de la peau (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope® 1500) et des images haute résolution (Visioface®) ont été réalisées dans la région malaire du visage. RÉSULTATS: Des troubles de la pigmentation, des télangiectasies, des rides et une moindre échogénicité du derme ont été observés sur la peau d'individus sans habitudes de photoprotection. Les images de microscopie confocale à réflectance ont montré un motif en nid d'abeille irrégulier (35%), des papilles polycycliques (40%) et des fibres de collagène épaisses (35%), qui sont liés au photovieillissement. CONCLUSION: L'exposition au soleil sans photoprotection entraîne une perte d'échogénicité cutanée et des modifications de la structure de l'épiderme et des fibres de collagène, quel que soit l'âge chronologique. Enfin, l'étude agrège les données pour une discussion sur les bonnes habitudes de photoprotection chez les jeunes et peut aider à augmenter l'utilisation des écrans solaires par le public masculin.

Influence of vegetable oils in the rheology, texture profile and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel.

OBJECTIVE: The knowledge about how ingredients in formulation can influence the texture profile is an important factor on the development of a cosmetic product. In this context, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effect of vegetable oils in the texture profile, rheological and sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations based on organogel. METHODS: Four organogel-based emulsions were developed and supplemented or not with sunflower, macadamia or olive oils. Analyses of rheological behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties were performed. RESULTS: The vegetable oils added to formulation did not alter the pseudoplastic rheological behaviour, but increased the area of hysteresis and reduced the work of shear of the formulations. In addition, the sunflower seed oil increased the consistency index and all texture parameters while the macadamia oil reduced firmness and consistency. The cosmetic formulation based on organogel containing the sunflower seed oil showed the highest score on sensory evaluation. CONCLUSION: The vegetable oils affected the rheology behaviour, texture profile and sensory properties of the formulations under study. However, the influence of sunflower oil in organogel-based cosmetic formulation was more pronounced considering texture profile and the response perceived by subjects in the sensorial analysis.

OBJECTIF: Les connaissances sur la manière dont les ingrédients d'une formulation peuvent influencer la texture constituent un facteur important dans la conception d'un produit cosmétique. Dans ce contexte, l'objectif de ce travail était d'évaluer l'effet des huiles végétales sur la texture, les propriétés rhéologiques et sensorielles des formulations cosmétiques à base d'organogel. MÉTHODES: Quatre émulsions à base d'organogels ont été préparées et enrichies ou non d'huiles de tournesol, de macadamia ou d'olive. Le comportement rhéologique, la texture et les propriétés sensorielles ont été analysés. RÉSULTATS: Les huiles végétales ajoutées à la formulation n'ont pas altéré le comportement rhéologique pseudoplastique, mais ont augmenté la surface du cycle d'hystérésis et réduit l'effet lissant des formulations. En outre, l'huile de tournesol a augmenté l'indice d'onctuosité et tous les paramètres de la texture, tandis que l'huile de macadamia a réduit la fermeté et l'onctuosité. La formulation cosmétique à base d'organogel contenant l'huile de tournesol a obtenu le meilleur score lors de l'évaluation sensorielle. CONCLUSION: Les huiles végétales ont affecté le comportement rhéologique, la texture et les propriétés sensorielles des formulations étudiées. Cependant, l'influence de l'huile de tournesol dans la formulation des cosmétiques à base d'organogel était plus prononcée compte tenu de la texture et de la réaction perçue par les sujets lors de l'analyse sensorielle.

Brazilian and French sensory perception of complex cosmetic formulations: a cross-cultural study.

OBJECTIVE: Brazil and France are two major beauty markets worldwide. Despite this, there is not much cross-information on sensory analysis of cosmetic products between both population of these countries. The objective of this study was to compare the sensory perception of cosmetic formulations between Brazilian and French assessors and establish cross-culturally preferences. METHODS: For this, a total panel of 100 consumers of cosmetics evaluated four different products. The same protocol for the sensory analysis was followed in both countries. RESULTS: The panellists were able to perceive differences in the products and the method proved to be repeatable in both countries. The presence of UV filters in the formulation was noticed and displeased both populations. Brazilians, although dissatisfied with the sensory aspect of the sunscreen, are willing to use it for its UV protection. CONCLUSION: This work delivers important information on the sensory perception of cosmetics by people from different countries and brings important knowledge to develop products with textural properties that will be appreciated worldwide.

OBJECTIFS: Le Brésil et la France sont deux pays majeurs pour le marché de la beauté. Malgré cela, il y a peu d'étude interculturelle sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques entre ces deux populations. L'objectif de cette étude était donc de comparer l'analyse de formules cosmétiques par deux jurys, l'un brésilien et l'autre français, et d'établir leur préférence. METHODES: Pour cela, nous avons demandé à 100 consommateurs au total d'évaluer 4 produits cosmétiques différents. Le même protocole d'analyse sensorielle a été scrupuleusement suivi dans les deux pays. RESULTATS: Les évaluateurs ont été capables de percevoir des différences significatives entre les produits, et de façon répétable dans chaque pays. Chaque jury a noté la présence de filtres UV dans les formules et ces dernières ont été peu appréciées. Cependant, le jury brésilien était favorable à leur utilisation pour se protéger des UV, et ce malgré leurs propriétés sensorielles insatisfaisantes. CONCLUSION: Ce travail fournit des informations indispensables sur la perception sensorielle des produits cosmétiques par des populations différentes, ainsi que de nouvelles connaissances pour développer des formules avec des textures qui pourront être appréciées à travers le monde.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations Containing Nanostructured Lipid Carriers: Sun Protection Factor, Physical-Mechanical and Sensorial Properties.

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by the sun are cumulative and can result in chemical changes such as the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to the regular use of sunscreen. As an alternative, the use of antioxidants, such as quercetin, into sunscreen can control these effects and provide additional skin photoprotection. However, quercetin presents low stability and poor permeation, alternatively, the encapsulation in nanoparticles can improve the stability and skin permeation. Thus, this study aimed to develop photoprotective formulations containing nanoencapsulated quercetin, characterize the physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, and evaluate the influence of nanocarriers on sun protection factor (SPF) and the immediate clinical effects. Sunscreen formulations with or without antioxidants in a free form or loaded in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were developed. After the stability, rheological behavior, texture profile, and in vivo SPF (sun protector factor) evaluation, sixty female participants, aged between 20 and 35 years, were enclosed to evaluate the sensorial properties and immediate clinical effects of the formulation in the skin hydration using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The correlation of rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensory properties enabled the correct choice of formulation ingredients. In addition, the use of NLCs with quercetin significantly improved the SPF in vivo of the developed photoprotective formulation, without increasing the amount of UV filters. Finally, the association of NLCs in the photoprotective formulation showed synergistic effects in the SPF and an improvement in the skin barrier function and hydration.

Maternal bisphenol A exposure disrupts spermatogenesis in adult rat offspring.

Bisphenol A (BPA) is an endocrine-disrupting chemical (EDC) that is widely used in the manufacturing of plastics and inner linings of food cans. Previously, it was reported that BPA disturbed the sexual dimorphic nucleus of the hypothalamus and delaying the onset of puberty attributed to an estrogenic action. In addition, BPA during the perinatal period increased LH serum concentrations in male offspring of dams at doses below the reproductive NOAEL (No Observable Adverse Effect Level) based upon World Health Organization guidelines. Based upon these findings, the objective of this study was to (1) determine the effects of perinatal treatment with low doses of BPA on regulation of spermatogenesis in adult offspring and (2) elucidate molecular mechanisms involved in the pathogenesis of gonadal dysfunction. The expression of genes related to spermatogenesis was disrupted with adverse consequences on sperm production, reserves, and function. Both BPA treated groups exhibited reduction in sperm production and epithelial height of seminiferous tubules, accompanied by diminished integrity of the acrosome and plasma membrane, decreased mitochondrial activity and increased incidence of morphological abnormalities. The sperm transit time was also slower. However, only in the group receiving the higher BPA dose was transcript expression of genes affected (reduced Ar and increased Esr1). It is of interest that serum testosterone levels were elevated in the same group where Ar was decreased. Data suggest that exposure to low BPA doses during hypothalamic sexual differentiation period produces permanent deleterious effects on spermatogenesis in adulthood.

Spirulina, Palmaria Palmata, Cichorium Intybus, and Medicago Sativa extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of in vitro toxicity and in vivo acceptability studies.

Background/Aims: The selection of suitable raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, not only in order to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. This study evaluated the in vitro toxicity potential of four different plant extracts and their in vivo acceptability studies. Methods: Spirulina, Palmaria palmata, Cichorium intybus and Medicago sativa extracts were analysed alone or in combination and added in cosmetic formulations. The in vitro toxicity evaluation, Hen's Egg Chorioallantoic Membrane Test (HET-CAM) and 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test were performed to evaluate in vitro potential ocular irritation and photo safety, respectively. Twenty subjects were enrolled in the acceptability studies, who were evaluated for the absence of harmful effects of the formulation by visual assessment and by transepidermal water loss, a biophysical technique, for 30 days. Results: HET-CAM assay showed that the studied extracts added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential. In addition, the combination of Palmaria palmata, alfalfa and chicory extracts did not show phototoxic potential in vitro. Acceptability studies showed that the formulation containing the four extracts combined did not provoke any transepidermal water loss (TEWL) alteration, sensory irritation or erythema in the forearms for the period of analysis. Conclusion: The studied active ingredients, alone or in combination, present no cytotoxicity potential and when added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential in vitro. These results predicting no harmful effects were confirmed in the acceptability tests, which showed no alteration on skin barrier function and no report of irritation perception of sign of erythema, suggesting the potential of these extracts for the development of safe cosmetic products.