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1.
Curr Issues Mol Biol ; 46(3): 2043-2070, 2024 Mar 04.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38534748

RESUMEN

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.

2.
Curr Issues Mol Biol ; 46(6): 5037-5051, 2024 May 21.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38920974

RESUMEN

Skin aging is an unavoidable natural phenomenon caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In modern society, the pursuit of a wrinkle-free and aesthetically appealing face has gained considerable prominence. Numerous studies have aimed at mitigating the appearance of facial wrinkles. Antiaging research focused on regulating the function of mitochondria, the main reactive oxygen species-generating organelles, has been extensively conducted. In this study, we investigated the correlation between facial wrinkles and the expression of PPARGC1B, considering the association of this gene with mitochondrial function, to identify its potential as a target for exploring antiaging cosmetic materials. We elucidated the role of PPARGC1B in the skin and identified five bioactive materials that modulated its expression. The effectiveness of these materials was verified through in vitro experiments on human dermal fibroblasts. We prepared cosmetic formulations incorporating the five materials and confirmed their ability to enhance dermal collagen in three-dimensional skin models and reduce facial wrinkles under the eyes and nasolabial fold areas in human subjects. The study findings have significant implications for developing novel antiaging cosmetic formulations by reinforcing mitochondrial functions.

3.
Curr Issues Mol Biol ; 46(8): 9122-9135, 2024 Aug 20.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-39194756

RESUMEN

Skin aging is a complex process with internal and external factors. Recent studies have suggested that enlargement and elongation of skin pores may be early signs of aging in addition to wrinkles and loss of elasticity. This study explores the potential of targeting the SGPP2 gene in keratinocytes to address these emerging concerns. Using siRNA knockdown, we demonstrated that SGPP2 modulates the production of inflammatory cytokines (interleukin (IL)-1ß and IL-8). Furthermore, conditioned media experiments revealed that keratinocytes with high SGPP2 expression indirectly influence fibroblast extracellular matrix remodeling, potentially contributing to enlarged pores and wrinkle formation. Based on these findings, we explored a complex formulation containing four SGPP2-modulating compounds. In vitro and in vivo experiments demonstrated the efficacy of the formulation in mitigating fine wrinkles and pore enlargement. This study highlights the significant implications of developing a more effective antiaging cosmetic formulation by targeting underlying inflammatory processes that drive skin aging.

4.
Chembiochem ; 25(6): e202300839, 2024 03 15.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38265820

RESUMEN

Switching from oil-based to bio-based feedstocks to ensure the green transition to a sustainable and circular future is one of the most pressing challenges faced by many industries worldwide. For the cosmetics and personal and house care industries there is a strong drive to accelerate this transition from the customers that starts favoring the purchase of naturally derived and bio-degradable products over the traditionally available products. In this work we developed a series of fully biobased macromolecules constituted of a glycerol-based oligoester backbone. Based on the subsequent derivatization with fatty acids or peptides, the resulting products may find application as emulsifiers, wetting agents, and potential vectors for the delivery of bioactive peptides. All steps of the resulting macromolecules were conducted following the green chemistry principles with no toxic or environmentally damaging compounds that were used in the overall production process.


Asunto(s)
Glicerol , Polímeros , Glicerol/química , Polímeros/química , Péptidos , Ácidos Grasos/química
5.
Mol Pharm ; 21(2): 622-632, 2024 Feb 05.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38273445

RESUMEN

Poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) is used in many common products, such as cosmetics. PEG, however, is also used to covalently conjugate drug molecules, proteins, or nanocarriers, which is termed PEGylation, to serve as a shield against the natural immune system of the human body. Repeated administration of some PEGylated products, however, is known to induce anti-PEG antibodies. In addition, preexisting anti-PEG antibodies are now being detected in healthy individuals who have never received PEGylated therapeutics. Both treatment-induced and preexisting anti-PEG antibodies alter the pharmacokinetic properties, which can result in a subsequent reduction in the therapeutic efficacy of administered PEGylated therapeutics through the so-called accelerated blood clearance (ABC) phenomenon. Moreover, these anti-PEG antibodies are widely reported to be related to severe hypersensitivity reactions following the administration of PEGylated therapeutics, including COVID-19 vaccines. We recently reported that the topical application of a cosmetic product containing PEG derivatives induced anti-PEG immunoglobulin M (IgM) in a mouse model. Our finding indicates that the PEG derivatives in cosmetic products could be a major cause of the preexistence of anti-PEG antibodies in healthy individuals. In this study, therefore, the pharmacokinetics and therapeutic effects of Doxil (doxorubicin hydrochloride-loaded PEGylated liposomes) and oxaliplatin-loaded PEGylated liposomes (Liposomal l-OHP) were studied in mice. The anti-PEG IgM antibodies induced by the topical application of cosmetic products obviously accelerated the blood clearance of both PEGylated liposomal formulations. Moreover, in C26 tumor-bearing mice, the tumor growth suppressive effects of both Doxil and Liposomal l-OHP were significantly attenuated in the presence of anti-PEG IgM antibodies induced by the topical application of cosmetic products. These results confirm that the topical application of a cosmetic product containing PEG derivatives could produce preexisting anti-PEG antibodies that then affect the therapeutic efficacy of subsequent doses of PEGylated therapeutics.


Asunto(s)
Doxorrubicina/análogos & derivados , Liposomas , Neoplasias , Ratones , Humanos , Animales , Composición de Medicamentos , Vacunas contra la COVID-19 , Inmunoglobulina M , Polietilenglicoles
6.
J Toxicol Environ Health B Crit Rev ; 27(3): 106-129, 2024 Apr 02.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38375664

RESUMEN

Cyclic and linear siloxanes are compounds synthesized from silicon consisting of alternating atoms of silicone and oxygen [Si-O] units with organic side chains. The most common cyclic siloxanes are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), while the most common linear siloxanes are high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and low molecular weight volatile linear siloxanes known as hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5). These compounds (1) exhibit low dermal toxicity, (2) are generally inert and non-reactive, and (3) are compatible with a wide range of chemicals offering beneficial chemical properties which include the following: wash-off or transfer resistance from the skin, sun protection factor (SPF) enhancement, emolliency in cleaning products). Because of these properties, these compounds are incorporated into multiple consumer products for use on the skin, such as cosmetics and health-care products, with over 300,000 tons annually sold into the personal care and consumer products sector. Because of their widespread use in consumer products and potential for human dermal exposure, a comprehensive understanding of the dermal absorption and overall fate of siloxanes following dermal exposure is important. This review summarizes available data associated with the dermal absorption/penetration as well as fate of the most commonly used siloxane substances.


Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Siloxanos , Humanos , Siloxanos/toxicidad , Siloxanos/química , Piel , Siliconas , Dimetilpolisiloxanos
7.
Environ Sci Technol ; 58(27): 12101-12112, 2024 Jul 09.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38935436

RESUMEN

Cosmetics make up one of the consumer product categories most widely known to contain perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs), including precursors to perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and other perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs). Because of the way cosmetics are used, most of the PFASs present in these products are likely to reach wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs), which suggests that cosmetics may contribute significantly to the load of PFOA and other PFASs at WWTPs. However, the majority of PFASs present as intentional ingredients in cosmetics cannot be quantified with the available analytical methods. To address this issue, we developed a methodology to estimate the total PFAS mass in cosmetics as well as the corresponding mass of total organic fluorine and of fluorinated side chains associated with PFAA precursors, using various ingredient databases and ingredient concentrations reported by manufacturers. Our results indicate that the cosmetics sold in California during a one-year period cumulatively contain 650-56 000 kg of total PFASs, 370-37 000 kg of organic fluorine, and 330-20 000 kg of fluorinated side chains associated with PFAA precursors. Among the 16 product subcategories considered, >90% of the PFAS mass came from shaving creams and gels, hair care products, facial cleansers, sun care products, and lotions and moisturizers, while the sum of all nine makeup subcategories accounted for <3%. Comparing our estimates to available WWTP influent data from the San Francisco Bay Area suggests that cosmetics may account for at least 4% of the precursor-derived PFAAs measured in wastewater. As the first study ever to estimate the total mass of PFASs contained in cosmetics sold in California, our results shed light on the significance of certain cosmetics as a source of PFASs to WWTPs and can inform effective source reduction efforts.


Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Fluorocarburos , Cosméticos/análisis , Fluorocarburos/análisis , California , Contaminantes Químicos del Agua/análisis , Aguas Residuales/química
8.
J Am Acad Dermatol ; 2024 Jan 25.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38280680

RESUMEN

Multiple recently approved medications have been added to our treatment armamentarium for various dermatologic conditions. Herein, we have reviewed the literature, consolidated available safety data, and offered recommendations based upon available evidence as a reference guide for clinicians treating patients for dermatologic conditions during lactation.

9.
Macromol Rapid Commun ; 45(10): e2300723, 2024 May.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38395416

RESUMEN

Emulsions are complex. Dispersing two immiscible phases, thus expanding an interface, requires effort to achieve and the resultant dispersion is thermodynamically unstable, driving the system toward coalescence. Furthermore, physical instabilities, including creaming, arise due to presence of dispersed droplets of different densities to a continuous phase. Emulsions allow the formulation of oils, can act as vehicles to solubilize both hydrophilic and lipophilic molecules, and can be tailored to desirable rheological profiles, including "gel-like" behavior and shear thinning. The usefulness of emulsions can be further expanded by imparting stimuli-responsive or "smart" behaviors by inclusion of a stimuli-responsive emulsifier, polymer or surfactant. This enables manipulation like gelation, breaking, or aggregation, by external triggers such as pH, temperature, or salt concentration changes. This platform generates functional materials for pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, oil recovery, and colloid engineering, combining both smart behaviors and intrinsic benefit of emulsions. However, with increased functionality comes greater complexity. This review focuses on the use of stimuli-responsive polymers for the generation of smart emulsions, motivated by the great adaptability of polymers for this application and their efficacy as steric stabilizers. Stimuli-responsive emulsions are described according to the trigger used to provide the reader with an overview of progress in this field.


Asunto(s)
Emulsiones , Emulsiones/química , Polímeros de Estímulo Receptivo/química , Concentración de Iones de Hidrógeno , Tensoactivos/química , Polímeros/química , Temperatura , Interacciones Hidrofóbicas e Hidrofílicas , Reología
10.
Appl Microbiol Biotechnol ; 108(1): 390, 2024 Jun 24.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38910175

RESUMEN

Microalgae are gaining attention as they are considered green fabrics able to synthesize many bioactive metabolites, with unique biological activities. However, their use at an industrial scale is still a challenge because of the high costs related to upstream and downstream processes. Here, a biorefinery approach was proposed, starting from the biomass of the green microalga Pseudococcomyxa simplex for the extraction of two classes of molecules with a potential use in the cosmetic industry. Carotenoids were extracted first by an ultrasound-assisted extraction, and then, from the residual biomass, lipids were obtained by a conventional extraction. The chemical characterization of the ethanol extract indicated lutein, a biosynthetic derivative of α-carotene, as the most abundant carotenoid. The extract was found to be fully biocompatible on a cell-based model, active as antioxidant and with an in vitro anti-aging property. In particular, the lutein-enriched fraction was able to activate Nrf2 pathway, which plays a key role also in aging process. Finally, lipids were isolated from the residual biomass and the isolated fatty acids fraction was composed by palmitic and stearic acids. These molecules, fully biocompatible, can find application as emulsifiers and softener agents in cosmetic formulations. Thus, an untapped microalgal species can represent a sustainable source for cosmeceutical formulations. KEY POINTS: • Pseudococcomyxa simplex has been explored in a cascade approach. • Lutein is the main extracted carotenoid and has antioxidant and anti-aging activity. • Fatty acids are mainly composed of palmitic and stearic acids.


Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Microalgas , Microalgas/metabolismo , Microalgas/química , Cosméticos/química , Carotenoides/química , Carotenoides/aislamiento & purificación , Biomasa , Antioxidantes/química , Antioxidantes/farmacología , Antioxidantes/aislamiento & purificación , Luteína/aislamiento & purificación , Luteína/química , Luteína/metabolismo , Humanos , Ácidos Grasos/química
11.
Skin Res Technol ; 30(8): e13831, 2024 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-39104132

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Skin "yellowness" is an abstract and subjective term, without a definitive measurement protocol. Objectives were to analyze Chinese women's self-perception of skin yellowness and associated parameters and identify objective clinical measurements that correlate with these perceptions. METHODS: Following focus group discussions, criteria for skin yellowness were defined, and validated by volunteer rankings of facial images. A typology study of 185 women was performed. Participants were grouped into yellow (Color Uniformity, Brightness and Transparency (CUBT) yellow scale grade > 3, chromameter b* value > 16) and non-yellow (CUBT yellow scale grade < 2, b* value < 14) groups. Participants self-evaluated their skin on yellowness, transparency, skin uniformity, dullness, radiance, oiliness, and texture. Expert assessments were performed to grade sebaceous pores, ocular area pigmentation, pigmentary spots and CUBT scores. Instrumental analysis of the skin was employed using corneometer, sebumeter, mexameter chromameter, and AGE reader. RESULTS: Women in the yellow group self-evaluated their skin as significantly duller, less uniform, and less radiant than women in the non-yellow group (P ≤ 0.05). Higher levels of ocular area pigmentation and lower facial skin uniformity and brightness (P < 0.001) were observed in women with yellow skin. CUBT expert grading showed lower pink skin color, but significantly higher beige, yellow, and olive pigmentation (P ≤ 0.05) in women in the yellow skin group. Melanin and b* values were significantly higher in women with yellow skin while L value was significantly lower. CONCLUSION: Self-perceived skin yellowness in Chinese women correlates to chromameter and mexameter measurements, as well as expert evaluation of ocular pigmentation and CUBT parameters.


Asunto(s)
Autoimagen , Pigmentación de la Piel , Humanos , Femenino , Adulto , China , Pigmentación de la Piel/fisiología , Persona de Mediana Edad , Adulto Joven , Piel/diagnóstico por imagen , Adolescente , Anciano
12.
Skin Res Technol ; 30(8): e13869, 2024 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-39171844

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: As a medicinal and food homologous plant, Rosa damascena is not only highly ornamental, but also rich in a variety of active ingredients such as polyphenols and flavonoids. It is widely used in cosmetics, food and pharmaceutical industries. OBJECTIVE: To study the in vitro efficacy of Rosa damascena solid state fermentation liquid (RDF) and water extract (RDE). METHODS: Firstly, the effect of RDF and RDE on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was detected by CCK-8 method, and the melanin content was measured by sodium hydroxide lysis method to evaluate the whitening effect of them. Finally, the antioxidant, anti-wrinkling and soothing effects of RDF and RDE were evaluated by biochemical methods in vitro. RESULTS: RDF and RDE within a certain concentration range (0.05%-0.5%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Compared with Rosa damascena extract (RDE), RDF showed significant effects on bleaching, antioxidant, anti-wrinkling and soothing, among which 0.5% RDF showed the best effect. CONCLUSION: Both RDF and RDE at a certain concentration have effect on skin care in vitro, but the effect of RDF is more significant than that of RDE.


Asunto(s)
Antioxidantes , Proliferación Celular , Fermentación , Extractos Vegetales , Rosa , Rosa/química , Extractos Vegetales/farmacología , Ratones , Animales , Proliferación Celular/efectos de los fármacos , Antioxidantes/farmacología , Cuidados de la Piel/métodos , Agua/química , Envejecimiento de la Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Melaninas , Línea Celular Tumoral , Humanos , Melanoma Experimental/tratamiento farmacológico , Melanoma Experimental/patología
13.
Skin Res Technol ; 30(3): e13632, 2024 Mar.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38407411

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: The Grand-AID research project, consisting of GRANDEL-The Beautyness Company, the dermatology department of Augsburg University Hospital and the Chair of IT Infrastructure for Translational Medical Research at Augsburg University, is currently researching the development of a digital skin consultation tool that uses artificial intelligence (AI) to analyze the user's skin and ultimately perform a personalized skin analysis and a customized skin care routine. Training the AI requires annotation of various skin features on facial images. The central question is whether videos are better suited than static images for assessing dynamic parameters such as wrinkles and elasticity. For this purpose, a pilot study was carried out in which the annotations on images and videos were compared. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Standardized image sequences as well as a video with facial expressions were taken from 25 healthy volunteers. Four raters with dermatological expertise annotated eight features (wrinkles, redness, shine, pores, pigmentation spots, dark circles, skin sagging, and blemished skin) with a semi-quantitative and a linear scale in a cross-over design to evaluate differences between the image modalities and between the raters. RESULTS: In the videos, most parameters tended to be assessed with higher scores than in the images, and in some cases significantly. Furthermore, there were significant differences between the raters. CONCLUSION: The present study shows significant differences between the two evaluation methods using image or video analysis. In addition, the evaluation of the skin analysis depends on subjective criteria. Therefore, when training the AI, we recommend regular training of the annotating individuals and cross-validation of the annotation.


Asunto(s)
Inteligencia Artificial , Piel , Humanos , Elasticidad , Cara/diagnóstico por imagen , Proyectos Piloto , Piel/diagnóstico por imagen , Estudios Cruzados
14.
Skin Res Technol ; 30(8): e13828, 2024 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-39092468

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Skincare and makeup "pilling" is an unsightly and undesirable phenomenon whereby skincare such as moisturizers or foundation ball up to form flakes on the skin. To date, the causes of skincare product pilling have not been studied. This study aimed to examine the relationship between skin physiology and pilling potential of sunscreen and foundation (the two products most reported by consumers to cause pilling). This study also examined the effects of product application methods on pilling. MATERIALS AND METHODS: 528 female volunteers from Guangzhou, China, aged between 20 and 49 years, underwent various clinical skin assessments, followed by three steps of product layering. Pilling was assessed after each product application step. RESULTS: 217 volunteers (41%) experienced pilling. The majority of pilling (n = 655 events) occurred following sunscreen application, while only a few pilling events (n = 35) occurred with foundation. Foundation improved pilling caused by sunscreen in 98.9% of cases. Volunteers experiencing pilling with both sunscreen and foundation had significantly lower facial skin hydration and oiliness, higher pH, and smoother skin texture (P < 0.05). Two application methods, rubbing of products in circular and linear motions, yielded the highest numbers of pilling events. CONCLUSION: This study has provided the first insights into the causes of pilling. Sunscreen is a promoter of pilling, while foundation may resolve sunscreen-induced pilling in many cases. Skin physiology, particularly drier, smoother skin with higher pH, and product application methods are likely contributing factors to this undesirable phenomenon.


Asunto(s)
Cuidados de la Piel , Protectores Solares , Humanos , Femenino , Adulto , Protectores Solares/administración & dosificación , Persona de Mediana Edad , Cuidados de la Piel/métodos , Adulto Joven , China , Piel/efectos de los fármacos , Fenómenos Fisiológicos de la Piel/efectos de los fármacos
15.
Regul Toxicol Pharmacol ; 149: 105620, 2024 May.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38615840

RESUMEN

Botanical extracts, widely used in cosmetics, pose a challenge to safety assessment due to their complex compositions. The threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach, offering a safe exposure level for cosmetic ingredients, proves to be a promising solution for ensuring the safety of cosmetic ingredients with low exposure level. We assessed the safety of Paeonia lactiflora root extract (PLR), commonly used in skin conditioning products, with the TTC. We identified 50 constituents of PLR extract from the USDA database and literature exploration. Concentration of each constituent of PLR extract was determined with the information from USDA references, literature, and experimental analysis. The genotoxicity of PLR and its constituents was assessed in vitro and in silico respectively. Cramer class of the constituents of the PLR extract was determined with Toxtree 3.1 extended decision tree using ChemTunes®. Systemic exposure of each constituent from leave-on type cosmetic products containing PLR at a 1% concentration was estimated and compared with respective TTC threshold. Two constituents exceeding TTC threshold were further analyzed for dermal absorption using in silico tools, which confirmed the safety of PLR extract in cosmetics. Collectively, we demonstrated that the TTC is a useful tool for assessing botanical extract safety in cosmetics.


Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Paeonia , Extractos Vegetales , Raíces de Plantas , Paeonia/química , Extractos Vegetales/toxicidad , Cosméticos/toxicidad , Raíces de Plantas/química , Medición de Riesgo , Humanos , Animales , Seguridad de Productos para el Consumidor , Absorción Cutánea , Nivel sin Efectos Adversos Observados
16.
Regul Toxicol Pharmacol ; 151: 105667, 2024 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38925470

RESUMEN

Methylparaben (MeP), ethylparaben (EtP), propylparaben (PrP), and butylparaben (BuP) are among the most widely used preservatives in cosmetics, drugs, and foods. These compounds have been associated with toxic effects due to the overuse of products with parabens in their formulation. The toxicity of parabens may be correlated to endocrine disruption, owing to their ability to mimic the actions of estradiol. In this paper, a simple, sustainable, robust, and innovative dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (DLLME) technique was developed and employed to extract these xenobiotics from body cream samples, aiming to calculate the margin of safety (MoS) to assess the risk of exposure. The validated method presented suitable linearity (r > 0.99), lower limits of detection (ranging from 0.01 to 0.04 % w/w), and satisfactory precision and accuracy (ranging from 4.33 to 10.47, and from -14.25 to 13.85, respectively). Seven of the ten analysed samples presented paraben contents within the acceptable concentration according to European legislation. The MoS value obtained for PrP (37.58) suggested its reduced safety, indicating that PrP may significantly contribute to systemic exposure resulting from the use of personal care products.


Asunto(s)
Cosméticos , Parabenos , Parabenos/análisis , Parabenos/toxicidad , Medición de Riesgo , Conservadores Farmacéuticos/análisis , Microextracción en Fase Líquida/métodos , Humanos , Reproducibilidad de los Resultados , Límite de Detección , Disruptores Endocrinos/análisis
17.
J Appl Toxicol ; 44(7): 1067-1083, 2024 Jul.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38539266

RESUMEN

Case studies are needed to demonstrate the use of human-relevant New Approach Methodologies in cosmetics ingredient safety assessments. For read-across assessments, it is crucial to compare the target chemical with the most appropriate analog; therefore, reliable analog selection should consider physicochemical properties, bioavailability, metabolism, as well as the bioactivity of potential analogs. To complement in vitro bioactivity assays, we evaluated the suitability of three potential analogs for the UV filters, homosalate and octisalate, according to their in vitro ADME properties. We describe how technical aspects of conducting assays for these highly lipophilic chemicals were addressed and interpreted. There were several properties that were common to all five chemicals: they all had similar stability in gastrointestinal fluids (in which no hydrolysis to salicylic occurred); were not substrates of the P-glycoprotein efflux transporter; were highly protein bound; and were hydrolyzed to salicylic acid (which was also a major metabolite). The main properties differentiating the chemicals were their permeability in Caco-2 cells, plasma stability, clearance in hepatic models, and the extent of hydrolysis to salicylic acid. Cyclohexyl salicylate, octisalate, and homosalate were identified suitable analogs for each other, whereas butyloctyl salicylate exhibited ADME properties that were markedly different, indicating it is unsuitable. Isoamyl salicylate can be a suitable analog with interpretation for octisalate. In conclusion, in vitro ADME properties of five chemicals were measured and used to pair target and potential analogs. This study demonstrates the importance of robust ADME data for the selection of analogs in a read-across safety assessment.


Asunto(s)
Salicilatos , Humanos , Salicilatos/toxicidad , Salicilatos/farmacocinética , Salicilatos/química , Células CACO-2 , Medición de Riesgo , Protectores Solares/toxicidad , Protectores Solares/farmacocinética , Protectores Solares/química , Disponibilidad Biológica , Ácido Salicílico/farmacocinética , Ácido Salicílico/química , Ácido Salicílico/toxicidad , Cosméticos/toxicidad , Cosméticos/química
18.
J Appl Toxicol ; 44(3): 333-343, 2024 Mar.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37699698

RESUMEN

The HUMIMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological systems model using the epidermal model, EpiDerm™, was reported previously to mimic application route-dependent metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). Therefore, we evaluated the use of alternative skin models-SkinEthic™, EpiDermFT™ and PhenionFT™-for the same purpose. In static incubations, AHT permeation was similar using SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models. Older Day 21 (D21) SkinEthic™ models with a thicker stratum corneum did not exhibit a greater barrier to AHT (overall permeation was the same in D17 and D21 models). All epidermal models metabolised AHT, with the EpiDerm™ exhibiting higher N-acetylation than SkinEthic™ models. AHT metabolism by D21 SkinEthic™ models was lower than that by D17 SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models, thus a thicker stratum corneum was associated with fewer viable cells and a lower metabolic activity. AHT permeation was much slower using PhenionFT™ compared to epidermal models and better reflected permeation of AHT through native human skin. This model also extensively metabolised AHT to N-acetyl-AHT. After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 model with PhenionFT™, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The first-pass metabolism of AHT was demonstrated, and the introduction of a wash step after 30 min decreased the exposure to AHT and its metabolites by 33% and 40%-43%, respectively. In conclusion, epidermal and FT skin models used in the Chip2 can mimic the first-pass skin metabolism of AHT. This highlights the flexibility of the Chip2 to incorporate different skin models according to the purpose.


Asunto(s)
Cresoles , Tinturas para el Cabello , Humanos , Tinturas para el Cabello/metabolismo , Piel/metabolismo , Compuestos de Anilina/metabolismo , Hígado
19.
J Appl Toxicol ; 44(2): 287-300, 2024 Feb.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37700462

RESUMEN

The HUMMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological system using EpiDerm™ and HepaRG and stellate liver spheroids was used to evaluate the route-specific metabolism and toxicodynamic effects of genistein. Human-relevant exposure levels were compared: 60 nM representing the plasma concentration expected after topical application of a cosmetic product and 1 µM representing measured plasma concentrations after ingesting soya products. Genistein was applied as single and repeated topical and/or systemic doses. The kinetics of genistein and its metabolites were measured over 5 days. Toxicodynamic effects were measured using transcriptional analyses of skin and liver organoids harvested on Days 2 and 5. Route-specific differences in genistein's bioavailability were observed, with first-pass metabolism (sulfation) occurring in the skin after topical application. Only repeated application of 1 µM, resembling daily oral intake of soya products, induced statistically significant changes in gene expression in liver organoids only. This was concomitant with a much higher systemic concentration of genistein which was not reached in any other dosing scenario. This suggests that single or low doses of genistein are rapidly metabolised which limits its toxicodynamic effects on the liver and skin. Therefore, by facilitating longer and/or repeated applications, the Chip2 can support safety assessments by linking relevant gene modulation with systemically available parent or metabolite(s). The rate of metabolism was in accordance with the short half-life observed in in vivo in humans, thus supporting the relevance of the findings. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 provides route-specific information on metabolic fate and toxicodynamics that may be relevant to safety assessment.


Asunto(s)
Genisteína , Piel , Humanos , Genisteína/toxicidad , Toxicocinética , Hígado
20.
Contact Dermatitis ; 90(6): 556-565, 2024 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-38368629

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: The baseline series includes common allergens, evolves over time, and differs by location. Our study aims to characterize allergen sensitization trends among the Israeli population during the last two decades, compare our results to American and European registries, as well as to highlight significant allergens in additional series outside the European baseline series (OEBS). METHODS: We analysed patch test results of 2086 patients from a designated contact dermatitis clinic in Tel Aviv between 2019 and 2022, compared them to European and North American registries and to 2156 patch test results conducted in Israel two decades ago. RESULTS: 38.6% of patients had at least one positive reaction to an allergen in the European baseline series (EBS), nickel sulphate (14.6%), fragrance mix I (4.6%), and Methylchloroisothiazolinone methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MI; 3.7%) were the most common among them. N-Isopropyl N-Phenyl-4-Phenylenediamine (NIPPD; 0%), Propolis (0.1%), Sesquiterpene lactone mix (0.1%), and Budesonide (0.1%) elicited a sensitization frequency significantly lower than the proposed threshold for baseline inclusion. Chi-square test revealed a statistically significant decrease (p < 0.05) in the sensitization frequency of fragrance mix I, Formaldehyde, Potassium dichromate, Neomycin sulphate, Myroxylon pereirae, Sesquiterpene lactone, and NIPPD during the last two decades. The overall sensitization frequency to the majority of allergens was lower in our cohort in comparison to the North American and European registries. CONCLUSIONS: MCI/MI and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate-2 (HEMA) are common, relevant allergens, with high SPIN (significance and prevalence index number) and should be better regulated by the authorities. While among the EBS, NIPPD, Propolis, Sesquiterpene lactone, and Budesonide usually do not elicit a positive reaction and therefore should be reconsidered in baseline series, among the OEBS, Chloramphenicol, Quaternium 15, Propyl gallate, and Amerchol L101 have elicited high SPIN values and should be vigilantly examined in the suitable clinical scenario. Significantly lower sensitization frequency to propolis raises the possibility of a protective effect due to early oral exposure among the Israeli population.


Asunto(s)
Alérgenos , Dermatitis Alérgica por Contacto , Pruebas del Parche , Humanos , Dermatitis Alérgica por Contacto/epidemiología , Dermatitis Alérgica por Contacto/etiología , Dermatitis Alérgica por Contacto/diagnóstico , Israel/epidemiología , Alérgenos/efectos adversos , Femenino , Masculino , Persona de Mediana Edad , Adulto , Sistema de Registros , Própolis/efectos adversos , Europa (Continente)/epidemiología , Fenilendiaminas/efectos adversos , Níquel/efectos adversos , Tiazoles/efectos adversos , Myroxylon/efectos adversos
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