Cotton honeydew (Gossypium hirsutum L.) extract offers very interesting properties for hair cosmetics and care products.

Cotton honeydew extract is composed of a unique combination of oligosaccharides, including fructose, glucose, inositol, melezitose, saccharose, trehalose and trehalulose. Studies have shown that these oligosaccharides exhibit a protective effect. Therefore, we were interested in studying the effect of these oligosaccharides on normal and damaged human hair. Both clinical and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies were performed. Standardized human hair samples were used to determine the effect of a rinse-off mask with 1% cotton honeydew extract on the ultrastructure of hair. In addition, hair samples were submitted to different aggressions, following various experimental protocols. SEM showed that, without extra aggression, the cuticle scales appeared to lie more smoothly in the hair in cotton honeydew extract-treated samples than in untreated samples. The extract-treated hair samples were also less prone to chipping. In contrast, the control, untreated hair samples retained a dry and damaged appearance and were prone to chipping and progressive splitting. In a clinical study, 15 volunteers had half of their hair treated with a formula with 1% honeydew extract and the other half was left untreated as a control. Pictures and visual evaluation of the hair showed that the honeydew extract formula left the hair with a smoothness that was far superior to the control side and this result was confirmed by SEM. In addition, mRNA studies on epidermal cells were performed and confirmed the stimulating effect of honeydew extract on keratin synthesis. These results demonstrate that cotton honeydew extract can be of great use in hair care products and cosmetics.

Quercus suber cork extract displays a tensor and smoothing effect on human skin: an in vivo study.

Recently, it has become indispensable for anti-aging active ingredients to provide a visible and immediate smoothing antiwrinkle effect. In Quercus suber, suberin is the most important structural component of cork cell walls. Studies have shown that suberin is made up mostly of hydroxycarboxylic acids and that it is endowed with many special mechanical and chemical properties that evoke a possible smoothing effect on the surface of the skin. Therefore, we were interested in investigating the effect of this cork extract on the skin's surface in a double-blind clinical study. The study was conducted in 15 healthy volunteers, aged 22 to 52 years. The volunteers applied a gel formula with 3% of cork extract, or placebo gel, on each forearm. Skin surface roughness was evaluated visually by pictures and by silicone replicas 1 and 2 h after application, followed by statistical analysis using the matched-pairs McNemar statistical test. McNemar analysis of the pictures revealed that application of cork extract on the skin resulted in a highly significant reduction of roughness 1 h after application. This effect was observed in 73.3% of volunteers. Two hours after cork extract application, a highly significant improvement of skin roughness was found in 78.6% of volunteers. Moreover, silicone replica treatment confirmed significant improvement in average of roughness at 2 h. These results demonstrate that cork extract provides a remarkable and highly significant tensor and smoothing effect on the skin, which could be of great use in anti-aging skin care products.

Collagen-like peptide exhibits a remarkable antiwrinkle effect on the skin when topically applied: in vivo study.

In this double-blind clinical study, we evaluated the effect of our newly developed synthetic collagen-like hexapeptide on wrinkles. Twenty healthy women volunteers, aged 40 to 62 years old, participated in the study Volunteers applied either a gel formula containing 3% of the collagen-like peptide and 1% of a booster molecule that stimulates general cell metabolism with no specific effect on wrinkles, or a placebo gel, on the eye zone area twice a day for 4 weeks. Control visits were performed at the beginning and the end of the study. Skin wrinkles were evaluated clinically and by silicon replica analysis followed by statistical treatment using the matched-pairs Student's t-test. The results showed that application of the collagen-like peptide on the skin significantly reduced the total surface of wrinkles and this effect was observed in 75% of the replicas. Similarly, the decrease in number and average depth of wrinkles was also significant and was observed in 65% and 75% of the replicas, respectively. The effect of the collagen-like peptide on reducing the total and average length of wrinkles was also remarkable. This effect was statistically highly significant (p < 0.003) and was observed in 75% to 80% of the replicas. Moreover these results were supported by volunteer questionnaires and clinical observation. The results demonstrate that the collagen-like peptide acts deeply and intensely on wrinkles; these properties are of great interest in the field of antiaging skin care research.

Date palm kernel extract exhibits antiaging properties and significantly reduces skin wrinkles.

Hormones play a central role in skin appearance and are implicated in skin aging. Recently, along with the remarkable increase in interest in natural products, the application of phytohormones in antiaging products has become very important. In this context, we developed date palm kernel extract. Date palm kernel is rich in phytohormones and we investigated the antiaging properties of date palm kernel in this in vivo study on wrinkles. Ten healthy women volunteers, between the ages of 46 and 58 years, applied the cream formula with 5% date palm kernel or placebo on the eye area twice a day for 5 weeks. The evaluation was made both clinically and by silicon replica analysis followed by statistical analysis using the Wilcoxon test. Silicon replica results showed that topical application of date palm kernel reduced the total surface of wrinkles by 27.6% (p = 0.038). Moreover, date palm kernel reduced the depth of wrinkles by 3.52% (p = 0.0231). These results are statistically significant and were clinically confirmed where visual improvement was seen in 60% of the volunteers treated. This in vivo study demonstrates that date palm kernel exhibits a significant antiwrinkle effect and is therefore of interest in antiaging skin care products.