Safety assessment for nail cosmetics: Framework for the estimation of systemic exposure through the nail plate.

All cosmetics products, including nail care products, must be evaluated for their safety. The assessment of systemic exposure is a key component of the safety assessment. However, data on the exposure, especially via ungual route (nail plate) are limited. Based on the physicochemical properties of human nails and permeability data of topical onychomycosis drugs, the nail plate is considered a good barrier to chemicals. We examine factors impacting penetration of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, including properties of the nails of the ingredients and formulations. The molecular weight, vapor pressure, logP, water solubility, and keratin binding, as well as formulations properties e.g., polymerization of acrylate monomers are considered important factors affecting penetration. To estimate systemic exposure of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, a standardized framework is applied that quantifies the impacts of these properties on penetration with an adjustment factor for each of these influencing properties. All the adjustment factors are then consolidated to derive an integrated adjustment factor which can be used for calculation of the systemic exposure dose for the ingredient. Several case studies are presented to reflect how this framework can be used in the exposure assessment for nail cosmetic products.

Common fragrance chemicals activate dendritic cells in coculture with keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Fragrances are important contact allergens; however, investigation of their skin sensitization potency has been challenging in new approach methods (NAMs). Many fragrance chemicals are susceptible to autoxidation or can be metabolized by enzymes constitutively expressed in skin keratinocytes. Strong sensitizers can be formed in both of these processes. Further, keratinocytes can modulate the dendritic cell (DC) activation and maturation potential, a key event in the acquisition of contact allergy. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the 2D coculture model consisting of keratinocytes and DCs using different weak to moderate sensitizing fragrance chemicals. Further, to investigate fragrances and related oxidation products in the in vitro model and compare to in vivo data. METHODS: Chemicals were tested in the coculture activation test (COCAT), consisting of HaCaT keratinocytes and THP-1 cells. THP-1 cell surface expression of costimulatory and adhesion molecules (CD86 and CD54) collected after 24 h incubation with the chemicals was analysed using flow cytometry. RESULTS: Twenty-four molecules were tested positive, three were negative (n = 27). Four pairs were evaluated, with aldehydes showing a 6- to 13-fold stronger responses compared to their corresponding alcohols. CONCLUSIONS: Results provide insight into the activation of DC in their natural environment of keratinocytes. α,ß-Unsaturated alcohols were classified as weaker sensitizers compared to their corresponding aldehydes. In sum, testing of fragrances retrieved results in good agreement with in vivo data.

Understanding the skin sensitization capacity of ascaridole: a combined study of chemical reactivity and activation of the innate immune system (dendritic cells) in the epidermal environment.

To improve the prediction of the possible allergenicity of chemicals in contact with the skin, investigations of upstream events are required to better understand the molecular mechanisms involved in the initiation of allergic reactions. Ascaridole, one of the compounds responsible for skin sensitization to aged tea tree oil, degrades into intermediates that evolve via different mechanisms involving radical species. We aimed at broadening the knowledge about the contribution of radical intermediates derived from ascaridole to the skin sensitization process by assessing the reactivity profile towards amino acids, identifying whether free radicals are formed in a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model and their biological properties to activate the immune system, namely dendritic cells in their natural context of human HaCaT keratinocytes and RHE. Electron paramagnetic resonance combined to spin-trapping in EpiSkin™ RHE confirmed the formation of C-radicals in the epidermal tissue from 10 mM ascaridole concentration, while reactivity studies toward amino acids showed electrophilic intermediates issued from radical rearrangements of ascaridole as the main reactive species. Activation of THP-1 cells, as surrogate for dendritic cells, that were cocultured with HaCaT was significantly upregulated after treatment with low micromolar concentrations based on cell surface expression of the co-stimulatory molecule CD86 and the adhesion molecule CD54. Placing THP-1 cells underneath the RHE allowed us to monitor which of the concentrations that produce radical(s) and/or protein antigens in the epidermal skin environment promote the activation of dendritic cells. We detected no significant upregulation of CD86/CD54 after topical RHE application of concentrations up to 30 mM ascaridole (t = 24 h) but clear upregulation after 60 mM.

Sensitization potential and potency of terpene hydroperoxides in the cocultured activation test method.

BACKGROUND: Positive patch test reactions to mixtures of oxidized terpenes containing allergenic hydroperoxides are frequently reported. However, human sensitization data for these hydroperoxides are not available. OBJECTIVES: To analyse and evaluate the human sensitization potential and potency of hydroperoxides in vitro by using human cells. MATERIALS/METHODS: Limonene-1-hydroperoxide, limonene-2-hydroperoxide, citronellol-7-hydroperoxide, cumene hydroperoxide, 1-(1-hydroperoxy-1-methylethyl)cyclohexene and mixtures of citronellol hydroperoxides (isomers at positions 6 and 7) and linalool hydroperoxides (isomers at positions 6 and 7) were studied. All compounds were synthesized except for cumene hydroperoxide, which was commercially available. Their potential and potency to activate dendritic cells (DCs) was evaluated by measuring the upregulation of CD86 and CD54 on THP-1 cells upon exposure in the cocultured activation test (COCAT) consisting of HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) and THP-1 monocytes (as a surrogate for DCs). RESULTS: Hydroperoxides upregulated CD86 and/or CD54 on cocultured THP-1 cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The results are comparable with their sensitization potency ranking in predictive animal models. CONCLUSIONS: For the first time, the human sensitization potential and potency of several hydroperoxides were determined by the use of human cells and the COCAT method.

Respiratory sensitization: toxicological point of view on the available assays.

Respiratory sensitization as a consequence of exposure to chemical products has increased over the last decades, leading to an increase of morbidity. The increased use of synthetic compounds resulted in an exponential growth of substances to which we are potentially exposed on a daily basis. Some of them are known to induce respiratory sensitization, meaning that they can trigger the development of allergies. In the past, animal studies provided useful results for the understanding of mechanisms involved in the development of respiratory allergies. However, the mechanistic understanding of the involved cellular effects is still limited. Currently, no in vitro or in vivo models are validated to identify chemical respiratory sensitizers. Nonetheless, chemical respiratory sensitizers elicit a positive response in validated assays for skin sensitization. In this review, we will discuss how these assays could be used for respiratory sensitization and if necessary, what can be learnt from these assays to develop a model to assess the respiratory sensitizing potential of chemicals. In the last decades, much work has been done to study the respiratory toxicity of inhaled compounds especially in developing in vitro assays grown at the air-liquid interface. We will discuss how possibly the tests currently used to investigate general particle toxicity could be transformed to investigate respiratory sensitization. In the present review, we describe the most known mechanism involved in the sensitization process and the experimental in vivo and alternative in vitro models, which are currently available and how to adapt and improve existing models to study respiratory sensitization.

Skin sensitization quantitative risk assessment for occupational exposure of hairdressers to hair dye ingredients.

Occupational exposure of hairdressers to hair dyes has been associated with the development of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) involving the hands. p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD) have been implicated as important occupational contact allergens. To conduct a quantitative risk assessment for the induction of contact sensitization to hair dyes in hairdressers, available data from hand rinsing studies following typical occupational exposure conditions to PPD, PTD and resorcinol were assessed. By accounting for wet work, uneven exposure and inter-individual variability for professionals, daily hand exposure concentrations were derived. Secondly, daily hand exposure was compared with the sensitization induction potency of the individual hair dye defined as the No Expected Sensitization Induction Levels (NESIL). For PPD and PTD hairdresser hand exposure levels were 2.7 and 5.9 fold below the individual NESIL. In contrast, hand exposure to resorcinol was 50 fold below the NESIL. Correspondingly, the risk assessment for PPD and PTD indicates that contact sensitization may occur, when skin protection and skin care are not rigorously applied. We conclude that awareness of health risks associated with occupational exposure to hair dyes, and of the importance of adequate protective measures, should be emphasized more fully during hairdresser education and training.

Cross-elicitation responses to 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine in p-phenylenediamine-allergic individuals: Results from open use testing and diagnostic patch testing.

BACKGROUND: Allergic contact dermatitis caused by p-phenylenediamine (PPD) is a health concern for hair dye users. Because of its lower sensitization potency, the PPD derivative 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine (ME-PPD) has been developed as an alternative hair dye for primary prevention. However, cross-elicitation responses can occur in PPD-allergic subjects. OBJECTIVES: To compare cross-elicitation responses to ME-PPD in open use and diagnostic patch testing of PPD-allergic subjects with hair dye-related allergic contact dermatitis. METHODS: Reactions to ME-PPD were investigated in 25 PPD-allergic subjects by performing (1) 45-minute open use testing with a hair dye containing 2.0% of either ME-PPD or PPD, and (2) patch testing with increasing ME-PPD concentrations (0.1%-2.0% pet.). RESULTS: Of the 25 PPD-allergic subjects, 21 (84%) reacted to open use testing with a hair dye containing 2.0% PPD, and testing with 2.0% ME-PPD led to cross-elicitation in 12 (48%). When patch tested with increasing ME-PPD concentrations, 13 (52%) cross-reacted at 0.1% (lowest dose) and 21 (84%) at 2.0% (highest dose), indicating decreased reactivity as compared with published PPD dose-response data. CONCLUSION: In line with the decreased cross-reactivity of ME-PPD in hair dye open use testing, PPD-allergic subjects show an attenuated cross-elicitation dose response to ME-PPD in patch testing.

Endothelial responses of the alveolar barrier in vitro in a dose-controlled exposure to diesel exhaust particulate matter.

BACKGROUND: During the last 250 years, the level of exposure to combustion-derived particles raised dramatically in western countries, leading to increased particle loads in the ambient air. Among the environmental particles, diesel exhaust particulate matter (DEPM) plays a special role because of its omnipresence and reported effects on human health. During recent years, a possible link between air pollution and the progression of atherosclerosis is recognized. A central effect of DEPM is their impact on the endothelium, especially of the alveolar barrier. In the present study, a complex 3D tetraculture model of the alveolar barrier was used in a dose-controlled exposure scenario with realistic doses of DEPM to study the response of endothelial cells. RESULTS: Tetracultures were exposed to different doses of DEPM (SRM2975) at the air-liquid-interface. DEPM exposure did not lead to the mRNA expression of relevant markers for endothelial inflammation such as ICAM-1 or E-selectin. In addition, we observed neither a significant change in the expression levels of the genes relevant for antioxidant defense, such as HMOX1 or SOD1, nor the release of pro-inflammatory second messengers, such as IL-6 or IL-8. However, DEPM exposure led to strong nuclear translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 and significantly altered expression of CYP1A1 mRNA in the endothelial cells of the tetraculture. CONCLUSION: In the present study, we demonstrated the use of a complex 3D tetraculture system together with a state-of-the-art aerosol exposure equipment to study the effects of in vivo relevant doses of DEPM on endothelial cells in vitro. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first that focuses on indirect effects of DEPM on endothelial cells of the alveolar barrier in vitro. Exposure to DEPM led to significant activation and nuclear translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 in endothelial cells. The considerably low doses of DEPM had a low but measurable effect, which is in line with recent data from in vivo studies.

Recent progress in N-acetyltransferase research: 7th international workshop on N-acetyltransferases (NAT): workshop report.

The 7th International Workshop on N-Acetyltransferases (NAT), held from 18 to 20 June 2016, was hosted by Brunhilde Blömeke and her team at the Trier University (Germany). The workshop addressed important aspects and latest advancements in the fields of NAT enzymes, endogenous functions of NATs, NAT gene nomenclature, genetic polymorphisms, and their associations with diseases as well as their use in diagnosis. Representatives from the leading teams performing research on NATs presented their excellent work, discussed the latest results, and created new ideas in the field of N-acetyltransferase research.

Real-time detection of p-phenylenediamine penetration into human skin by in vivo Raman spectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Penetration, autoxidation and N-acetylation of p-phenylenediamine (PPD) have been studied in vitro and ex vivo. However, a clear understanding of in vivo PPD penetration and the formation of PPD derivatives is lacking. OBJECTIVES: To obtain insights into the in vivo penetration, clearance and formation of PPD derivatives in human skin. METHODS: Patch test chambers containing PPD 1% pet. were applied to the forearms of two human volunteers, with increasing application times. Non-invasive Raman microspectroscopy was used for detection of PPD (derivatives) in skin at several follow-up times. RESULTS: Application of a PPD 1% pet. patch for 30 min resulted in substantial amounts of PPD in the stratum corneum of 90 mg PPD/g keratin. PPD contents were highest after three applications for 1 h each (330 mg PPD/g keratin), followed by single applications for 2 h 40 min, 2 h, and 23 h. The PPD half-time in the skin was 3 h. No spectral contributions of Bandrowski's base, monoacetyl-PPD and diacetyl-PPD were detected. CONCLUSIONS: We have gained insights into the in vivo penetration of PPD in human skin by using non-invasive Raman spectroscopy. Penetration into the skin was fast, and the PPD concentrations detected in the stratum corneum were high. PPD was detected in both the stratum corneum and the viable epidermis. Oxidized or acetylated PPD derivatives could not be detected.

The role of the antioxidant ascorbic acid in the elicitation of contact allergic reactions to p-phenylenediamine.

BACKGROUND: An allergic contact reaction is accompanied by high oxidative stress in the skin. Pretreatment of the skin with antioxidative substances could reduce the elicitation reaction. OBJECTIVES: To investigate, in a proof-of-principle study, whether pretreatment of the skin with the antioxidant ascorbic acid reduces the elicitation reaction to a p-phenylenediamine (PPD)-containing hair dye in sensitized subjects. METHODS: Twelve subjects with contact allergy to PPD, a documented skin reaction to a hair dye simulation exposure model and a history of hair dye-related skin complaints were included in this study. Skin areas on the forearms were, in a left versus right design, exposed to an emulsion with ascorbic acid and an emulsion without ascorbic acid, and then to a 2% PPD-containing hair dye testing formulation. In addition, control areas were exposed to the emulsions and to the PPD-containing hair dye formulation without pretreatment. Skin reactions were graded on day (D)2 and D3. RESULTS: Pretreatment with ascorbic acid emulsion resulted in a reduction in the elicitation reaction in 7 of 12 subjects at D3 (p = 0.046). No statistically significant difference was observed at D2. CONCLUSIONS: Pretreatment of the skin with the antioxidant ascorbic acid had an attenuating effect on the elicitation reaction to PPD in sensitized individuals.

Extrahepatic metabolism at the body's internal-external interfaces.

In general, xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) are expressed in lower levels in the extrahepatic tissues than in the liver, making the former less relevant for the clearance of xenobiotics. Local metabolism, however, may lead to tissue-specific adverse responses, e.g. organ toxicities, allergies or cancer. This review summarizes the knowledge on the expression of phase I and phase II XMEs and transporters in extrahepatic tissues at the body's internal-external interfaces. In the lung, CYPs of families 1, 2, 3 and 4 and epoxide hydrolases are important phase I enzymes, while conjugation is less relevant. In skin, phase I-related enzymatic reactions are considered less relevant. Predominant skin XMEs are phase II enzymes, whereby glucuronosyltransferases (UGT) 1, glutathione-S-transferase (GST) and N-acetyltransferase (NAT) 1 are important for detoxification. The intestinal epithelium expresses many transporters and phase I XME with high levels of CYP3A4 and CYP3A5 and phase II metabolism is mainly related to UGT, NAT and Sulfotransferases (SULT). In the kidney, conjugation reactions and transporters play a major role for excretion processes. In the bladder, CYPs are relevant and among the phase II enzymes, NAT1 is involved in the activation of bladder carcinogens. Expression of XMEs is regulated by several mechanisms (nuclear receptors, epigenetic mechanisms, microRNAs). However, the understanding why XMEs are differently expressed in the various tissues is fragmentary. In contrast to the liver - where for most XMEs lower expression is demonstrated in early life - the XME ontogeny in the extrahepatic tissues remains to be investigated.

Introduction of a methoxymethyl side chain into p-phenylenediamine attenuates its sensitizing potency and reduces the risk of allergy induction.

The strong sensitizing potencies of the most important primary intermediates of oxidative hair dyes, p-phenylenediamine (PPD) and p-toluylenediamine (PTD, i.e. 2-methyl-PPD) are well established. They are considered as the key sensitizers in hair dye allergic contact dermatitis. While modification of their molecular structure is expected to alter their sensitizing properties, it may also impair their color performance. With introduction of a methoxymethyl side chain we found the primary intermediate 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine (ME-PPD) with excellent hair coloring performance but significantly reduced sensitizing properties compared to PPD and PTD: In vitro, ME-PPD showed an attenuated innate immune response when analyzed for its protein reactivity and dendritic cell activation potential. In vivo, the effective concentration of ME-PPD necessary to induce an immune response 3-fold above vehicle control (EC3 value) in the local lymph node assay (LLNA) was 4.3%, indicating a moderate skin sensitizing potency compared to values of 0.1 and 0.17% for PPD and PTD, respectively. Finally, assessing the skin sensitizing potency of ME-PPD under consumer hair dye usage conditions through a quantitative risk assessment (QRA) indicated an allergy induction risk negligible compared to PPD or PTD.

The optimal patch test concentration for ascaridole as a sensitizing component of tea tree oil.

BACKGROUND: Tea tree oil is used as a natural remedy, but is also a popular ingredient in household and cosmetic products. Oxidation of tea tree oil results in degradation products, such as ascaridole, which may cause allergic contact dermatitis. OBJECTIVES: To identify the optimal patch test concentration for ascaridole, and to investigate the relationship between a positive reaction to ascaridole and a positive reaction to oxidized tea tree oil. PATIENTS/MATERIALS/METHODS: Three hundred and nineteen patients with eczema were patch tested with ascaridole 1%, 2%, and 5%, and 250 patients were patch tested with oxidized tea tree oil 5%. Readings were performed on D3 and D7 according to a patch test calibration protocol. RESULTS: With an increasing ascaridole test concentration, the frequency of positive reactions increased: ascaridole 1%, 1.4%; ascaridole 2%, 5.5%; and ascaridole 5%, 7.2%. However, the frequencies of irritant and doubtful reactions also increased, especially for ascaridole 5%. A positive reaction to ascaridole was related to a positive reaction to tea tree oil. CONCLUSIONS: This study is in support of ascaridole being a sensitizer. We recommend patch testing with ascaridole at 2%. The finding that every positive reaction to oxidized tea tree oil is accompanied by a positive reaction to ascaridole suggests that ascaridole might be a contact allergen in oxidized tea tree oil.

An improved 3D tetraculture system mimicking the cellular organisation at the alveolar barrier to study the potential toxic effects of particles on the lung.

BACKGROUND: Exposure to fine and ultra-fine ambient particles is still a problem of concern in many industrialised parts of the world and the intensified use of nanotechnology may further increase exposure to small particles. Complex in vitro coculture systems may be valuable tools to study particle-induced processes and to extrapolate effects of particles on the lung. A system consisting of four different human cell lines which mimics the cell response of the alveolar surface in vitro was developed to study native aerosol exposure (Vitrocell™ chamber). The system is composed of an alveolar type-II cell line (A549), differentiated macrophage-like cells (THP-1), mast cells (HMC-1) and endothelial cells (EA.hy 926), seeded in a 3D-orientation on a microporous membrane. RESULTS: The spatial distribution of the cells in the tetraculture was analysed by confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), showing a confluent layer of endothelial and epithelial cells on both sides of the transwell. Macrophage-like cells and mast cells can be found on top of the epithelial cells. The cells formed colonies under submerged conditions, which disappeared at the ALI. To evaluate the response to oxidative stress, the dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA) assay was used together with 2,2'-azobis-2-methyl-propanimidamide-dihydrochloride (AAPH) as inducer of oxidative stress. The tetraculture showed less induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production after being treated with a positive control compared to the monocultures of EA.hy 926, THP-1 and HMC-1. Submerged cultures showed elevated ROS and IL-8 levels compared to ALI cultures. The Vitrocell™ aerosol exposure system was not significantly influencing the viability. Using this system, cells were exposed to an aerosol of 50 nm SiO2-Rhodamine NPs in PBS. The distribution of the NPs in the tetraculture after exposure was evaluated by CLSM. Fluorescence from internalized particles was detected in CD11b-positive THP-1 cells only. CONCLUSION: The system can be used in conjunction with a native aerosol exposure system and may finally lead to a more realistic judgement regarding the hazard of new compounds and/or new nano-scaled materials in the future. The results for the ROS production and IL-8 secretion suggest that submerged exposure may lead to an overestimation of observed effects.

Penetration and haptenation of p-phenylenediamine.

Although p-phenylenediamine (PPD) has been recognized as an extreme sensitizer for many years, the exact mechanism of sensitization has not been elucidated yet. Penetration and the ability to bind to proteins are the first two hurdles that an allergen has to overcome to be able to sensitize. This review is an overview of studies regarding PPD penetration through skin (analogues) and studies on the amino acids that are targeted by PPD. To complete this review, the auto-oxidation and N-acetylation steps involved in PPD metabolism are described. In summary, under normal hair dyeing exposure conditions, <1% of the applied PPD dose penetrates the skin. The majority (>80%) of PPD that penetrates will be converted into the detoxification products monoacetyl-PPD and diacetyl-PPD by the N-acetyltransferase enzymes. The small amount of PPD that does not become N-acetylated is susceptible to auto-oxidation reactions, yielding protein-reactive PPD derivatives. These derivatives may bind to specific amino acids, and some of the formed adducts might be the complexes responsible for sensitization. However, true in vivo evidence is lacking, and further research to unravel the definite mechanism of sensitization is needed.

Impact of eugenol and isoeugenol on AhR translocation, target gene expression, and proliferation in human HaCaT keratinocytes.

The phenolic derivatives eugenol and isoeugenol, which are naturally found in essential oils of different spices, are commonly used as fragrances. Recently data demonstrated that growth suppression produced by these substances occurs in keratinocytes and that the effects may be mediated via aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) interactions. In this study the effects of eugenol and isoeugenol were determined on intracellular localization of AhR, AhR target gene expression, AhR-dependent cell cycle regulation, and proliferation in HaCaT cells. Both compounds produced a rapid and marked translocation of AhR into the nucleus, induced the expression of the AhR target genes cytochrome P-450 1A1 (CYP1A1) and AhR repressor (AhRR), and inhibited proliferation of HaCaT cells. Among the G(1) phase cell cycle-related proteins, levels of the retinoblastoma protein (RB), which is known to interact with AhR, and levels of the cyclin dependent kinase (CDK) 6 were reduced by eugenol and isoeugenol, whereas steady-state levels of CDK2 and CDK4 remained unaffected. Protein levels of CDK inhibitor (CKI) p27(KIP1), known to be modulated in an AhR-dependent manner, were increased after treatment with both substances. In conclusion, data show that the antiproliferative properties of eugenol and isoeugenol in HaCaT cells are mediated through AhR, and thereby the molecular mechanisms of action in these cells were identified for the first time in this study.

Variable NAT1 enzyme activity in long-term cultured human HaCaT keratinocytes.

Since animal testing should be avoided whenever possible, the development of in vitro tests for predicting the effect of chemicals becomes a major field. This rise of in vitro test systems led to an increased requirement for well-characterized continuously growing cell lines. Monitoring of the cells during test and routine culture is necessary to gain relevant and reproducible results. In the present study, the influence of passaging under constant culture conditions on the human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT was investigated. Data demonstrated that growth rate rose with increasing passages. Doubling times of the cells were decreased to 24 ± 0.6 h in the late passages (12-16), in comparison to 36.2 ± 1.5 h in the early passages (2-8). These data were confirmed by a fall in mRNA expression levels of keratin 1 and transglutaminase 1 within the passages. Furthermore, the activities of the xenobiotic metabolizing phase II enzyme N-acetyltransferase 1 (NAT1) were higher in the late passages compared to the early passages. These results are contrary to an expected decrease in enzyme activity and proliferation rate induced by replicative senescence or cell aging. Data also indicate that routine culture might result in significant changes in proliferation and phase II metabolism. These findings reinforce the necessity of a strict characterization and knowledge of regulation of in vitro systems, as well as the need for new biomarkers, in order to use cells for the development and evaluation of reproducible in vitro test systems.