Miniaturized Two-Dimensional Heart Cutting for LC-MS-Based Metabolomics.

Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS)-based metabolomics usually combines hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) and reversed-phase (RP) chromatography to cover a wide range of metabolomes, requiring both significant sample consumption and analysis time for separate workflows. We developed an integrated workflow enabling the coverage of both polar and nonpolar metabolites with only one injection of the sample for each ionization mode using heart-cutting trapping to combine HILIC and RP separations. This approach enables the trapping of some compounds eluted from the first chromatographic dimension for separation later in the second dimension. In our case, we applied heart-cutting to non-retained metabolites in the first dimension. For that purpose, two independent miniaturized one-dimensional HILIC and RP methods were developed by optimizing the chromatographic and ionization conditions using columns with an inner diameter of 1 mm. They were then merged into one two-dimensional micro LC-MS method by optimization of the trapping conditions. Equilibration of the HILIC column during elution on the RP column and vice versa reduced the overall analysis time, and the multidimensionality allows us to avoid signal measurements during the solvent front. To demonstrate the benefits of this approach to metabolomics, it was applied to the analysis of the human plasma standard reference material SRM 1950, enabling the detection of hundreds of metabolites without the significant loss of some of them while requiring an injection volume of only 0.5 µL.

Recent advances in understanding inflammatory acne: Deciphering the relationship between Cutibacterium acnes and Th17 inflammatory pathway.

Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous units. Four factors contribute to acne: hyperseborrhea and dysseborrhea, follicular hyperkeratinisation, skin microbiome dysbiosis and local immuno-inflammation. Recent key studies have highlighted a better understanding of the important role of Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) in the development of acne. Three major findings in the last decade include: (1) the ability of C. acnes to self-organize in a biofilm associated with a more virulent activity, (2) the loss of the C. acnes phylotype diversity and (3) the central role of the Th17 pathway in acne inflammation. Indeed, there is a close link between C. acnes and the activation of the Th17 immuno-inflammatory pathway at the initiation of acne development. These mechanisms are directly linked to the loss of C. acnes phylotype diversity during acne, with a predominance of the pro-pathogenic phylotype IA1. This specifically contributes to the induction of the Th17-mediated immuno-inflammatory response involving skin cells, such as keratinocytes, monocytes and sebocytes. These advancements have led to new insights into the underlying mechanisms which can be harnessed to develop novel treatments and diagnostic biomarkers. A major disadvantage of traditional treatment with topical antibiotics is that they induce cutaneous dysbiosis and antimicrobial resistance. Thus, future treatments would no longer aim to 'kill' C. acnes, but to maintain the skin microbiota balance allowing for tissue homeostasis, specifically, the restoration of C. acnes phylotype diversity. Here, we provide an overview of some of the key processes involved in the pathogenesis of acne, with a focus on the prominent role of C. acnes and the Th17-inflammatory pathways involved.

Change in Cutibacterium acnes phylotype abundance and improvement of clinical parameters using a new dermocosmetic product containing Myrtus communis and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extracts in patients with acne vulgaris.

BACKGROUND: Acne is a multifactorial chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, where Cutibacterium acnes plays a main role. Recent papers demonstrated that specific C. acnes phylotypes were correlated with the severity of inflammatory acne and reported a specific loss of C. acnes phylotype diversity in this context. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this exploratory study was to evaluate the efficacy of a new dermocosmetic product containing Myrtus communis and Celastrol-enriched plant cell culture extracts on C. acnes phylotype abundance and clinical parameters in subjects with mild to moderate acne vulgaris. METHODS: Cutibacterium acnes phylotype diversity was evaluated by single-locus sequence typing sequencing on the nonlesional areas of the forehead, that is, areas excluding inflammatory lesions (papules and pustules) on day 1 (D1) and after 56 days (D57) of twice daily application of the dermocosmetic product on the whole face. Clinical efficacy on acne was also assessed by acne lesion counting and Global Evaluation Acne (GEA) score on D1 and D57. RESULTS: Our study confirmed the link between the presence of some C. acnes phylotypes and acne severity. The dermocosmetic cream was linked to a positive impact on C. acnes phylotypes: a significant decrease in pro-pathogen phylotype IC and increase in nonpathogen phylotype IB were observed in the nonlesional areas of acne on D57 compared to D1. In parallel, the clinical results showed a significant decrease in inflammatory and comedonal acne lesions and a significant improvement in the acne severity according to the GEA score. CONCLUSIONS: This study showed that the application of a new dermocosmetic product containing M. communis and Celastrol-enriched plant cell culture extracts was linked to a change in the C. acnes phylotype abundance and an improvement in acne severity.

Myrtus communis and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extracts control together the pivotal role of Cutibacterium acnes and inflammatory pathways in acne.

INTRODUCTION: Acne is a multifactorial inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit in which Cutibacterium acnes is one of the main triggers. A strong predominance of C. acnes phylotype IA1 is present in acne skin with higher biofilm organization and virulence, promoting local immuno-inflammation, especially the Th17 pathway. OBJECTIVES: We evaluated the single and combined pharmacological properties of the plant extracts, Myrtus communis (Myrtacine®) and Celastrol enriched plant cell culture (CEE) extracts on the C. acnes/Th17 pathway. METHODS: The effect of Myrtacine® on the virulence of C. acnes phylotype IA1 was quantified according to the expression of several related genes. The activity of Myrtacine® and CEE on the inflammatory cascade was assessed using monocytes-derived dendritic cells (Mo-DC) stimulated with membranes or biofilms of the C. acnes phylotype IA1. Finally, the effect of CEE on the Th17 pathway was studied using C. acnes stimulated sebocyte 2D cultures and 3D skin tissue models containing preactivated Th17 cells. RESULTS: Myrtacine® had an anti-virulence effect, evident as a significant and strong inhibition of the expression of several virulence factor genes by 60%-95% compared to untreated controls. Myrtacine® and CEE significantly inhibited proinflammatory cytokine (IL-6, IL-8, IL-12p40 and TNF-α) production by Mo-DC in response to C. acnes phylotype IA1. Interestingly, these two ingredients resulted in synergistic inhibition of most cytokines when used in combination. Finally, we demonstrated an inhibitory effect of CEE, in solution or formulated at 0.3%, specifically on IL-17 release by Th17 lymphocytes in a C. acnes-stimulated sebocyte 2D cultures and by Th17-lymphocytes integrated in a 3D skin models. CONCLUSIONS: 2D and 3D models were developed to represent relevant and specific pathways involved in acne. Myrtacine® and CEE were shown to alter one or more of these pathways, indicating their potential beneficial effects on this disease.

Evaluation of a Novel Skin Emollient Cream on Skin Lipidome and Lipid Organization.

INTRODUCTION: The stratum corneum (SC) matrix is composed of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides (CERs), which play a key role in the skin barrier function. Changes in the composition and content of skin lipids will affect the function of the skin barrier. The effect of a glycerol/petrolatum-based emollient (G/P-emollient) cream on the lipid profiles of isolated ex vivo human SC and the SC of a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model was measured. METHODS: The spatial organization of the cream and the isolated SC intercellular matrix were studied using X-ray diffraction. The inter-bilayer distances in the multi-lamellar lipid structures and lattice type were analyzed using small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), respectively. Lipidomic analysis using shotgun lipidomics was performed on RHE models to quantify CER classes and chain lengths. This technology enables the analysis of thousands of lipids in a single biological sample. RESULTS: The crystallized components of the cream are lipids, which were mainly packed in orthorhombic lattices, as well as hexagonal lattices and were similar to the SC structure. The cream penetrated the SC but did not alter the WAXS profile. It increased the amount of higher carbon number CERs (>42 carbons) and decreased lower carbon number CERs (<42 carbons). All chain length of CERs and acyl-CER classes (CER EOS, EOH, EOP, EOdS) were increased as the total CER classes. A decrease of the CER C34 for hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated CERs was also observed. The cream altered the S and P CER forms (increased the NP/NS and AP/AS ratios), indicating it could reduce the relative feedback mechanism observed in inflammatory pathologies, for example, atopic dermatitis. The cream increased CER NP, which is decreased in dry skin. CONCLUSION: G/P-emollient cream may be beneficial for skin pathologies by modifying SC lipids, balancing CER levels and ratios, and improving the barrier function. Importantly, the cream structure mimics that of the SC and penetrated the lower SC layers without compromising its lamellar structure.

Cav1.4 calcium channels control cytokine production by human peripheral TH17 cells and psoriatic skin-infiltrating T cells.

BACKGROUND: Type-17 inflammation characterizes psoriasis, a chronic skin disease. Because several inflammatory cytokines contribute to psoriasis pathogenesis, inhibiting the simultaneous production of these cytokines in TH17 cells may be beneficial in psoriasis. We found that Cav1.4, encoded by CACNA1F, was the only Cav1 calcium channel expressed in TH17 cells. OBJECTIVE: We sought to investigate the role of Cav1.4 expression in early TH17-activation events and effector functions, as well as its association with TH17 signature genes in lesional psoriatic (LP) skins. METHODS: Transcriptional gene signatures associated with CACNA1F expression were examined in LP skins by RT-PCR and in situ hybridization. Cav1 inhibitor and/or shRNA lentivectors were used to assess the contribution of Cav1.4 in TH17 activation and effector functions in a 3-dimensional skin reconstruction model. RESULTS: CACNA1F expression correlated with inflammatory cytokine expression that characterizes LP skins and was preferentially associated with RORC expression in CD4+ and CD4- cells from LP biopsies. Nicardipine, a Cav1 channel antagonist, markedly reduced inflammatory cytokine production by TH17 cells from blood or LP skin. This was associated with decreased TCR-induced early calcium events at cell membrane and proximal signaling events. The knockdown of Cav1.4 in TH17 cells impaired cytokine production. Finally, Cav1 inhibition reduced the expression of the keratinocyte genes characteristic of TH17-mediated psoriasis inflammation in human skin equivalents. CONCLUSIONS: Cav1.4 channels promote TH17-cell functions both at the periphery and in inflammatory psoriatic skin.

Reduction of senescence-associated secretory phenotype and exosome-shuttled miRNAs by Haritaki fruit extract in senescent dermal fibroblasts.

OBJECTIVE: Skin ageing is linked to the accumulation of senescent cells and a "senescence-associated secretory phenotype" (SASP). SASP factors include chemokines, cytokines, and small extracellular vesicles (EVs) containing miRNAs. We characterized SASP profile markers in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and evaluated the effect of Haritaki fruit extract on these senescence markers. METHODS: Senescence was induced in HDFs by ionizing radiation (X ray), followed by 14 days of culture. Parallel incubations included fibroblasts treated for 12 days with 10 or 100 µg/mL Haritaki (a standardized extract of Terminalia chebula fruit). Senescence was assessed on Day 14 according to cell morphology, ß-galactosidase activity, RT-qPCR measurement of SASP genes, as well as semi-quantitative (RT-qPCR) expression of miRNAs contained in EVs isolated from the medium. The size and distribution of EVs were measured by Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis. RESULTS: Human dermal fibroblasts exhibited a senescent phenotype 14 days after ionizing-radiation, demonstrated by a flattened and irregular shape, increased ß-galactosidase activity and over-expression of SASP genes. CSF3, CXCL1, IL1ß, IL6 and IL8 genes were increased by 1492%, 1041%, 343%, 478%, 2960% and 293%, respectively. The cell cycle inhibitor, CDKN1A, was increased by 357%, while COL1A1, was decreased by 56% and MMP1 was increased by 293%. NTA analysis of the EVs size distribution indicated a mix of exosomes (45-100 nm) and microvesicles (100-405 nm). miRNA expression in EVs was increased in senescent fibroblasts. miR 29a-3p, miR 30a-3p, miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p and miR 186-5p were increased in senescent HDF by 4.17-, 2.43-, 1.17-, 2.01, 12.5-fold, respectively. Incubation of senescent fibroblasts with Haritaki extract strongly decreased SASP mRNA levels and miRNA expression in EVs. CONCLUSION: Haritaki strongly reduced SASP expression and EV-shuttled miRNAs in senescent fibroblasts. These results indicate that Haritaki has strong senomorphic properties and may be a promising ingredient for the development of new anti-ageing dermo-cosmetic products by inhibiting deleterious effects of senescent cells.

OBJECTIF: Le vieillissement cutané est lié à l'accumulation de cellules sénescentes et à un « phénotype sécrétoire associé à la sénescence ¼ (SASP). Le SASP est constitué de chimiokines, cytokines et de petites vésicules extracellulaires (VE) contenant des miARN. Nous avons caractérisé les marqueurs du SASP dans des fibroblastes dermiques humains normaux (HDF) et évalué l'effet d'un extrait de fruit d'Haritaki sur ces marqueurs de la sénescence. MÉTHODES: La sénescence a été induite dans les HDF par des rayonnements ionisants (rayons X), suivis de 14 jours de culture. Parallèlement, des HDF ont été traités pendant 12 jours avec 10 ou 100 µg/mL d'Haritaki (un extrait standardisé de fruit de Terminalia chebula). La sénescence a été évaluée au jour 14 en fonction de la morphologie cellulaire, de l'activité ß-galactosidase, de la mesure des gènes du SASP par RT-PCR, ainsi que de l'expression semi-quantitative (RT-qPCR) des miARN contenus dans les VE isolées du milieu. La taille et la distribution des VE ont été mesurées par Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA). RÉSULTATS: Les HDF ont présenté un phénotype sénescent 14 jours après le rayonnement ionisant, en effet, ils avaient une forme aplatie et irrégulière, une activité ß-galactosidase accrue et une surexpression des gènes du SASP. Les ARNm de CSF3, CXCL1, IL1ß, IL6 et IL8 ont été augmentés de 1492%, 1041%, 343%, 478%, 2960% et 293%, respectivement. L'inhibiteur du cycle cellulaire, CDKN1A, a été augmenté de 357%, tandis que le COL1A1 a diminué de 56% et la MMP1 a augmenté de 293%. L'analyse NTA de la distribution de taille des VE a montré un mélange d'exosomes (45-100 nm) et de microvésicules (100-405 nm). L'expression des miARN dans les VE a augmenté dans les fibroblastes sénescents. Les miR 29a-3p, miR 30a-3p, miR 34a-5p, miR 24a-3p et miR 186-5p ont été augmentés dans le HDF sénescent de, respectivement, 4,17-, 2,43-, 1,17-, 2,01 et 12,5- fois. L'incubation de fibroblastes sénescents avec l'extrait de Haritaki a fortement diminué les niveaux d'ARNm du SASP et l'expression de miARN dans les VE. CONCLUSION: L'extrait d'Haritaki a fortement réduit l'expression du SASP et de miARN contenus dans les VE des fibroblastes sénescents. Ces résultats indiquent que Haritaki possède de fortes propriétés sénomorphiques et pourrait être un ingrédient prometteur pour le développement de nouveaux produits dermo-cosmétiques anti-âge en inhibant les effets délétères des cellules sénescentes.

DNA photoproducts released by repair in biological fluids as biomarkers of the genotoxicity of UV radiation.

UV-induced formation of photoproducts in DNA is a major initiating event of skin cancer. Consequently, many analytical tools have been developed for their quantification in DNA. In the present work, we extended our previous liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry method to the quantification of the short DNA fragments containing photoproducts that are released from cells by the repair machinery. We designed a robust protocol including a solid-phase extraction step (SPE), an enzymatic treatment aimed at releasing individual photoproducts, and a liquid chromatography method combining on-line SPE and ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography for optimal specificity and sensitivity. We also added relevant internal standards for a better accuracy. The method was validated for linearity, repeatability, and reproducibility. The limits of detection and quantification were found to be in the fmol range. The proof of concept of the use of excreted DNA repair products as biomarkers of the genotoxicity of UV was obtained first in in vitro studies using cultured HaCat cells and ex vivo on human skin explants. Further evidence was obtained from the detection of pyrimidine dimers in the urine of human volunteers collected after recreational exposure in summer. An assay was designed to quantify the DNA photoproducts released from cells within short fragments by the DNA repair machinery. These oligonucleotides were isolated by solid-phase extraction and enzymatically hydrolyzed. The photoproducts were then quantified by on-line SPE combined with UHPLC-MS/MS with isotopic dilution.

Comprehensive characterization of the structure and properties of human stratum corneum relating to barrier function and skin hydration: modulation by a moisturizer formulation.

The stratum corneum (SC) is key in the maintenance of the biomechanical barrier and hydration of skin. Our previous investigations showed beneficial effects of a combination of emollients on water capture and retention and protein and lipid organization, all of which are linked to dryness and dry skin damage. Here, we show how a formulation containing an emollient combination ("Trio") and its basal formulation (placebo) impacted the descriptors of SC hydration in SC layers. Only the Trio formulation-not its placebo formulation-modified SC biomechanical drying stress behaviour and imparted a high capacity to protect it from dehydration. This was in accordance with findings at the molecular level using Raman analyses and at the structural level using cryo-scanning electron microscopy (SEM). After topical application, only the Trio formulation profoundly increased lateral packing of lipids and their compactness. Cryo-SEM showed that, unlike the placebo formulation, the Trio formulation prevented the water loss when applied before the dehydration process. In conclusion, these studies demonstrate that stresses in the SC due to dehydration can be alleviated using a formulation containing emollients that interact with the SC lipid components.

Safety assessment of cosmetics by read across applied to metabolomics data of in vitro skin and liver models.

As a result of the cosmetics testing ban, safety evaluations of cosmetics ingredients must now be conducted using animal-free methods. A common approach is read across, which is mainly based on structural similarities but can also be conducted using biological endpoints. Here, metabolomics was used to assess biological effects to enable a read across between a candidate cosmetic ingredient, DIV665, only studied using in vitro assays, and a structurally similar reference compound, PA102, previously investigated using traditional in vivo toxicity methods. The (1) cutaneous distribution after topical application, (2) skin metabolism, (3) liver metabolism and (4) effect on the intracellular metabolomic profiles of in vitro skin and hepatic models, SkinEthic®RHE model and HepaRG® cells were investigated. The compounds exhibited similar skin penetration and skin and liver metabolism, with small differences attributed to their physicochemical properties. The effects of both compounds on the metabolome of RHE and HepaRG® cells were similarly small, both in terms of the metabolites modulated and the magnitude of changes. The patterns of metabolome changes did not fit with any known signature relating to a mode of action known to be linked to liver toxicity e.g. modification of the Krebs cycle, urea synthesis and lipid metabolism, were more reflective of transient adaptive responses. Overall, these studies indicate that PA102 is biologically similar to DIV665, allowing read across of safety endpoints, such as in vivo sub-chronic (but not reproduction toxicity) studies, for the former to be applied to DIV665. Based on this, in the absence of animal data (which is prohibited for new chemicals), it could be concluded that DIV665 applied according to the consumer topical use scenario, is similar to PA102, and is predicted to exhibit low local skin and systemic toxicity.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin.

OBJECTIVE: Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations. METHODS: Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase. RESULTS: Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions. CONCLUSION: A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

OBJECTIF: Les effets délétères des polluants et des rayonnements ultraviolets au niveau cutané peau peuvent être atténués avec des formulations contenant des antioxydants. Cependant, ceux-ci peuvent présenter des inconvénients comme une instabilité chimique, une photodégradation, une faible biodisponibilité ou une faible activité biologique. Nous avons évalué deux formulations commerciales: l'une optimisée pour stabiliser et libérer de l'acide ascorbique (AA) à 15 % et l'autre contenant une forme conjugué de l'AA, à savoir l'acide ascorbique 2-glucoside (AA2G), à 1.8% et formulée à un pH physiologique. Nous avons comparé le passage percutané, les effets antioxydants et la stabilité chimique de l'AA2G avec l'AA dans leurs formulations respectives. MÉTHODES: Le passage percutané a été évalué avec des explants de peau humaine maintenus en survie et le stress oxydatif a été évalué à l'aide d'un modèle d'épiderme reconstruit humain (RHE) en mesurant les niveaux de malondialdéhyde (MDA), de superoxyde dismutase (SOD) et de catalase. RÉSULTATS: L'AA2G a été complètement métabolisé en AA par la peau avant d'atteintre le compartiment récepteur. Le composé parent et l'AA ont été retrouvé dans la peau, indiquant qu'une réserve d'AA2G était présente pour une libération prolongée. Pour l'AA2G et l'AA, le flux maximal d'équivalents AA était à 12 h, avec une absorption continue sur 24 h. La quantité absolue en µg était plus élevée dans la peau après application de la formulation contenant 15% d'AA qu'après application de la formule contenant 1.8% d'AA2G. Cela peut suggérer un effet antioxydant plus important ; cependant, selon les trois paramètres évalués pour le stress oxydatif, l'effet protecteur de l'AA et de l'AA2G était similaire. Contrairement à l'AA, l'AA2G est chimiquement plus stable dans des conditions de stockage. CONCLUSION: Une concentration plus faible d'AA2G est aussi efficace que le métabolite actif, l'AA, en termes d'effets antioxydants. L'AA2G est chimiquement plus stable et peut être appliqué à une concentration inférieure à l'AA, évitant ainsi le besoin d'une formulation acide avec un pH inférieur à 3.5.

Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties.

OBJECTIVE: We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities. METHODS: After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities. RESULTS: The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid. CONCLUSION: These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG.

OBJECTIF: Nous avons étudié la cinétique de pénétration cutanée et les propriétés antioxydantes d'une formulation solaire contenant deux antioxydants, l'oxothiazolidine (OTZ) et le δ-tocophéryl glucoside (DTG). L'OTZ se transforme directement en taurine en présence de stress oxydant sans l'action des enzymes cutanées, tandis que le DTG est métabolisé par les enzymes cutanées pour libérer le δ-tocophérol qui est la molécule ayant les propriétés antioxydantes. MÉTHODES: Après application topique sur un modèle d'épiderme humain reconstruit dérivé de follicules pileux (RHE), suivi d'une irradiation solaire, la cinétique de biodisponibilité et les réponses antioxydantes de ces deux composés ont été mesurées sur 24 h. Les marqueurs du stress oxydatif étaient la production de malondialdéhyde (MDA), l'activité de la superoxyde dismutase (SOD) et de la catalase. RÉSULTATS: Les deux antioxydants ont des profils de biodisponibilité différents. L'OTZ pénètre rapidement dans la peau, tandis que le DTG pénètre lentement et est biotransformé par les enzymes cutanés pour libérer le δ-tocophérol. Par rapport à l'OTZ seul, la protection oxydante sur les niveaux de MDA et les activités SOD et catalase était plus élevée lorsque le DTG était utilisé seul ou en association avec OTZ. Lorsqu'il est utilisé en combinaison, le degré de protection augmente au cours du temps et atteint son maximum 2h post-irradiation et reste constant durant 24 h. Le DTG pénètre lentement dans la peau et est présent dans la peau durant 24h post-irradiation, permettant ainsi un apport lent mais constant de δ-tocophérol. En revanche, la protection oxydante via l'OTZ est immédiate mais de courte durée en raison de sa pénétration rapide à travers le RHE. CONCLUSION: Ces résultats indiquent une action de protection solaire complémentaire de l'OTZ et du DTG avec une absorption immédiate d'OTZ juste après l'application topique de la formulation, et une libération cutanée prolongée de δ-tocophérol grâce à la pénétration et la métabolisation plus lentes du DTG.

Use of human liver and EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions as a screening assays to compare the in vitro hepatic and dermal metabolism of 47 cosmetics-relevant chemicals.

The abundance of xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes (XMEs) is different in the skin and liver; therefore, it is important to differentiate between liver and skin metabolism when applying the information to safety assessment of topically applied ingredients in cosmetics. Here, we have employed EpiSkin™ S9 and human liver S9 to investigate the organ-specific metabolic stability of 47 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The rank order of the metabolic rate of six chemicals in primary human hepatocytes and liver S9 matched relatively well. XME pathways in liver S9 were also present in EpiSkin S9; however, the rate of metabolism tended to be lower in the latter. It was possible to rank chemicals into low-, medium- and high-clearance chemicals and compare rates of metabolism across chemicals with similar structures. The determination of the half-life for 21 chemicals was affected by one or more factors such as spontaneous reaction with cofactors or non-specific binding, but these technical issues could be accounted for in most cases. There were seven chemicals that were metabolized by liver S9 but not by EpiSkin S9: 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, cinnamyl alcohol and 2-acetylaminofluorene (slowly metabolized); and cyclophosphamide, benzophenone, and 6-methylcoumarin. These data support the use of human liver and EpiSkin S9 as screening assays to indicate the liver and skin metabolic stability of a chemical and to allow for comparisons across structurally similar chemicals. Moreover, these data can be used to estimate the systemic bioavailability and clearance of chemicals applied topically, which will ultimately help with the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants.

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP+ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

Measurement of the penetration of 56 cosmetic relevant chemicals into and through human skin using a standardized protocol.

OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic-relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 µL/cm2 ) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 ± 0.02 and 72.61 ± 8.89 µg/cm2 . The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate-buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

Renouncing care in French Guiana: the national health barometer survey.

BACKGROUND: In French Guiana, health inequalities are patent for a broad range of pathologies for all age groups. The objective of the present study was to quantify the proportion of the population that had renounced care in the past year, to study predictive factors, and to compare results with other French territories. METHODS: A two-stage random sample of 2015 individuals aged 15 to 75 years was surveyed by telephone. A descriptive analysis of variables relative to renouncing care, use of health care, screening, and vaccination was initially performed. Multivariate analysis was then used to determine variables associated with renouncing care for financial reasons and renouncing for reasons linked to time were directly estimated using a Poisson model on weighted data. Variables with a significance level < 0.2 in the bivariate analysis were included in the full multivariate model. RESULTS: In French Guiana, during the past 12 months, 30.9% of surveyed persons renounced care whatever the type for financial reasons. Results of the multivariate analysis showed that gender, perceived financial situation, perceived health and complementary insurance status were independent predictive factors of care renouncement for financial reasons. Overall, 24% of the surveyed population declared having renounced to care for time-related motives. The independent predictors for time-related renouncing were different than those for renouncing care for financial reasons: a higher education level and a poor perceived health were independently associated with time-related renouncement; retired persons and students were found to renounce care less frequently than persons with a job. CONCLUSIONS: Renouncing for financial reasons, a major target of the 2016 health law, represented a public health problem in French Guiana. Renouncing for lack of time was an important motive for renouncing, which is aggravated by the insufficient number of health professionals, but may benefit from organizational solutions. There are avenues for improvement of health for the most vulnerable: promote health, act on risk factors, and facilitate the readability and accessibility of the health system. Recent reforms to stabilize health insurance may however have some adverse consequences for migrants.

Use of a Simple in vitro Test to Assess Loss of Chemical due to Volatility during an in vitro Human Skin Absorption Study.

BACKGROUND: We tested the cutaneous distribution of 50 chemicals in frozen human skin. The mass balance (MB) values for 48% of the chemicals were < 90%, possibly due to evaporation. METHODS: We confirmed the reduction in MB was due to evaporation for two chemicals tested in skin penetration experiments using a carbon filter above the skin to trap airborne chemical. An in vitro assay was used to predict the reduction in MB due to evaporation by comparing the recovery of chemicals after 4 h of incubation at room temperature in open and closed vials. RESULTS: Evaporative losses in vitro correlated well with measured MBs (i.e., < 90%) in skin penetration experiments (R2 = 0.81). There was a correlation of the MB with the vapour pressure (VP) which could be used to group chemicals according to their likelihood to evaporate during the course of a skin penetration study. There was also a correlation of MB with Henry's law constants, melting and boiling points. CONCLUSION: Our data support the use of a quick and simple test for volatility to account for the loss of MB in skin penetration experiment due to volatility. The best parameter to indicate the potential of a chemical to evaporate is the VP.

Measurement of the biomechanical function and structure of ex vivo drying skin using raman spectral analysis and its modulation with emollient mixtures.

An important aspect of the biomechanical behaviour of the stratum corneum (SC) is the drying stresses that develop with water loss. These stresses act as a driving force for damage in the form of chapping and cracking. Betasitosterol is a plant sterol with a structure similar to cholesterol, a key component in the intercellular lipids of the outermost layer of human skin, the SC. Cholesterol plays an important role in stabilizing the SC lipid structure, and altered levels of cholesterol have been linked with SC barrier abnormalities. Betasitosterol is currently applied topically to skin for treatment of wounds and burns. However, it is unknown what effect betasitosterol has on the biomechanical barrier function of skin. Here, by analysing the drying stress profile of SC generated during a kinetics of dehydration, we show that betasitosterol, in combination with two emollient molecules, isocetyl stearoyl stearate (ISS) and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (GTEH), causes a significant modulation of the drying stress behaviour of the SC by reducing both the maximal peak stress height and average plateau of the drying stress profile. Raman spectra analyses demonstrate that the combination of betasitosterol with the two emollients, ISS and GTEH, allows a high water retention capacity within the SC, while the lipid conformational order by increasing the amount of trans conformers. Our study highlights the advantage of combining a biomechanical approach together with Raman spectroscopy in engineering a suitable combination of molecules for alleviating dryness and dry skin damage.

IL-1ß induces thymic stromal lymphopoietin and an atopic dermatitis-like phenotype in reconstructed healthy human epidermis.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common skin inflammatory disease characterized by the production of thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) and marked TH 2 polarization. Recent studies suggest that IL-1ß contributes to the development of AD skin inflammation. Here, we have investigated the impact of IL-1ß signalling on the epidermal homeostasis of both healthy subjects and AD patients [with functional filaggrin (FLG) alleles], with particular attention to TSLP production and keratinocyte differentiation. In healthy reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), IL-1ß promoted (i) robust secretion of TSLP in an NF-κB-dependent manner and (ii) a significant decrease in the expression of filaggrin and other proteins of the epidermal differentiation complex. These effects were prevented by treatment of RHE with the anti-IL-1ß mAb canakinumab and by the IL-1 receptor antagonist anakinra. Interestingly, RHE generated from AD donors behaved like that of healthy individuals and showed comparable responses to IL-1ß signals. Collectively, our results suggest that IL-1ß may be an early key mediator for the acquisition of an AD phenotype through induction of TSLP and alteration of the epidermal homeostasis. Copyright © 2017 Pathological Society of Great Britain and Ireland. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.