The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background.

BACKGROUND: Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well-blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm. OBJECTIVE: This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice-daily to a 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half-face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half-face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity. RESULTS: After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun-induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product. CONCLUSION: Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen.

Impact on facial skin aging signs of a 1-year standardized photoprotection over a classical skin care routine in skin phototypes II-VI individuals: A prospective randomized trial.

BACKGROUND: Data reflecting the impact of photoprotection on cutaneous aging are scarce and mostly limited to fair skin. OBJECTIVE: To assess the effectiveness of a photoprotective product in counteracting the photoaging process in different skin phototypes over 1 year compared against a classical routine. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Two hundred and ninety Brazilian women aged 30-65 years, with skin phototype II-VI were equally randomized in two groups. Group 1 kept on their routine whereas Group 2 applied, twice daily, a photoprotective product (SPF 60, PPD = 24.1) replacing the one they routinely used. Volunteers reported the duration of their daily sun-exposure. Standardized photographs taken at D0 and D365 were analysed by 15 dermatologists to assess eight wrinkles and pigmentation signs. RESULTS: A global increase in severity was reported which was significant for Group 1. This increase was lower in Group 2 where only half the signs showed significant worsening. In Group 2 versus Group 1, the increase in forehead wrinkles, marionette lines, wrinkles created by ptosis and size of dark spot was significantly (p < 0.05) decreased by 30%-50%. CONCLUSION: Daily application of a high photoprotective product significantly decreases the progression of skin aging signs after 1 year in skin phototypes II-VI.

Morphological, structural and biophysical properties of French and Brazilian photoaged skin.

BACKGROUND: Knowledge of skin biology and its alterations in different populations is very important for the development of appropriate skincare strategies. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate and compare morphological, structural and biophysical properties of photoaged skin in French and Brazilian populations, using biophysical and skin-imaging techniques. METHODS: Forty-one French and 41 Brazilian healthy, female volunteers aged between 40 and 65 years were enrolled. Each participant completed a questionnaire concerning habits related to cosmetic use, sun exposure and sun protection during different life periods. Skin on the face and volar forearm was evaluated using noninvasive techniques, to determine skin colour, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, skin microrelief, skin viscoelasticity and dermis structure. Reflectance confocal microscopy was used to measure epidermal layer thickness and epidermal morphological and structural characteristics. RESULTS: Compared with Brazilian skin, French skin was more hydrated, had a lower TEWL and presented a distinct viscoelastic profile on the forearms and face. Brazilian facial skin was more wrinkled, and the dermis was less echogenic on the forearms and face. The French participants had thicker stratum corneum. Brazilian facial skin presented a higher prevalence of rete ridge effacement, low interkeratinocyte reflectance, huddled collagen and solar elastosis. CONCLUSIONS: Morphological, structural and biophysical differences were found when assessing the skin of the Brazilian and French participants, who were exposed to different environmental factors.

Clinical scoring and instrumental analysis to evaluate skin types.

BACKGROUND: The biology of the skin is very complex, and there are a number of methods used to classify the different skin types. It is possible to measure or quantify the characteristics of the specific skin types, using a variety of techniques that can objectively evaluate the properties of the skin in a noninvasive manner. AIM: To clinically characterize different skin types by dermatological evaluation and biophysical and skin imaging techniques, and to evaluate the relationship between the different characteristics. METHODS: The study recruited 26 volunteers. Clinical scoring was performed by a dermatologist who classified the volunteers' skin as normal or dry (group 1) and combination or oily (group 2). Objective measurements included skin microrelief, pH, oiliness, water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). RESULTS: Positive correlations were found between the level of skin oiliness and skin texture obtained from both instrumental analysis and clinical scoring. The combination and oily skin types had higher clinical scores for shine intensity, oiliness and tendency to pigmentation, and also had higher objective scores for sebum secretion, TEWL and roughness. CONCLUSIONS: Biophysical and skin imaging techniques are effective tools to help characterize skin type and assist in clinical dermatology. We found that different skin types had different characteristics related to skin microrelief, oiliness and TEWL, and therefore require specific dermatological treatments.

In vivo photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, vitamins, Ginkgo biloba and red algae extracts.

The aim of this study was to assess the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, red algae, Porphyra umbilicalis, extracts and combinations of the extract with vitamins and Ginkgo biloba through the use of in vivo preclinical studies. For this study, 4 groups of 4 hairless mice each were treated with topical formulations applied on the dorsum for 5 days as follows: group 1 - control (no treatment); group 2 - application of the formulation F (sunscreen formulation containing only UV filters); group 3 - application of the formulation FA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract); and group 4 - application of the formulation FVGA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract, G. biloba and vitamins A, C and E). The effects of these formulations were evaluated by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index. Apoptosis was detected by immunohistochemical staining with anti-p53 and anti-caspase-3 antibodies. The results showed that the formulations protected the skin from erythema when exposed to UV radiation. The group that received the formulation FVGA presented a greater TEWL than did the other groups, suggesting that this formulation was involved in cell renewal. Immunohistochemical analysis showed that UV radiation caused an increase in the expression of p53 and active caspase-3, confirming that the damage caused by UV radiation exposure led to apoptosis. The application of all formulations studied resulted in a statistically significant reduction in the expression of p53 and caspase-3, with a more pronounced effect observed following treatment with FA. In conclusion, extracts from the red algae P. umbilicalis could be considered effective ingredients to be used in sunscreen formulations. The combination of vitamins A, E, C and G. biloba along with red algae extracts can improve significantly the performance of the sunscreens, preventing UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation. Thus, they should be considered an interesting combination for an effective photoprotective formulation with anti-aging properties.