Reliability and Validity of a Method for the Assessment of Sport Rock Climbers' Isometric Finger Strength.

ABSTRACT: Torr, O, Randall, T, Knowles, R, Giles, D, and Atkins, S. The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climbers' isometric finger strength. J Strength Cond Res 36(8): 2277-2282, 2022-Isometric strength of the finger flexors is considered to be one of the main physical determinants of sport rock climbing performance. We set out to determine the test-retest reliability and criterion validity of a low resource maximal isometric finger strength (MIFS) testing protocol that uses a pulley system to add or remove weight to/from a climber's body. To determine test-retest reliability, 15 subjects' MIFS was assessed on 2 occasions, separated by a minimum of 48 hours. Body mass and maximum load were recorded on both occasions. Intra-class correlation coefficients (ICCs) between visits for all variables were very good (ICC > 0.91), with small bias and effect sizes-particularly when expressed as a percentage of body mass (ICC = 0.98, 95% confidence interval 0.93-0.99). To determine the criterion validity of MIFS and climbing ability, data of 229 intermediate to higher elite climbers were compared. Pearson's product moment correlations demonstrated good agreement, again particularly between total load when expressed as a percentage of body mass and climbing performance ( r = 0.421-0.503). The results illustrate the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of MIFS in intermediate to height elite climbers from an ecologically valid, climbing specific test that only requires equipment found at most climbing walls. This low resource test protocol for the assessment of isometric finger strength has wide-reaching utility, for instance when assessing strength before and after a training intervention or when prescribing load intensities for exercises aimed at improving maximal finger strength.

Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers.

Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R2 = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R2 = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.