In-Vivo Tape Stripping Study with Caffeine for Comparisons on Body Sites, Age and Washing.

PURPOSE: Assessing the percutaneous absorption of cosmetic ingredients using in-vitro human skin reveals certain limitations, such as restricted anatomical sites and repeated exposure, and to overcome these issues, in-vivo studies are required. The aim of the study is to develop a robust non-invasive in-vivo protocol that should be applicable to a wide range of application. METHODS: A robust tape stripping protocol was therefore designed according to recent recommendations, and the impact of two different washing procedures on caffeine distribution in tape strips was investigated to optimise the protocol. The optimised protocol was then used to study the effect of age and anatomical area on the percutaneous absorption of caffeine, including facial areas which are not readily available for in-vitro studies. RESULTS: With tape stripping, a difference between the percutaneous absorption on the face (forehead, cheek) and the volar forearm was observed. No obvious difference was observed between percutaneous absorption in young and post-menopausal women, but this could be due to the limited number of subjects. CONCLUSION: This tape stripping protocol is now to be deployed to address many other factors, such as percutaneous absorption in other anatomical areas (e.g. abdomen, axilla, etc.), impact of repeated applications and effect of formulation.

3D Molecular Imaging of Stratum Corneum by Mass Spectrometry Suggests Distinct Distribution of Cholesteryl Esters Compared to Other Skin Lipids.

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g., regarding molecular specificity or spatial resolution. Here, we used 3D time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry to characterize the spatial distribution of skin lipids in corneocyte multilayer squams obtained by tape stripping. Depth profiles of specific skin lipids display an oscillatory behavior that is consistent with successive monitoring of individual lipid and corneocyte layers of the SC structure. Whereas the most common skin lipids, i.e., ceramides, C24:0 and C26:0 fatty acids and cholesteryl sulfate, are similarly organized, a distinct 3D distribution was observed for cholesteryl oleate, suggesting a different localization of cholesteryl esters compared to the lipid matrix separating the corneocyte layers. The possibility to monitor the composition and spatial distribution of endogenous lipids as well as active drug and cosmetic substances in individual lipid and corneocyte layers has the potential to provide important contributions to the basic understanding of barrier function and penetration in the SC.

Spatial distribution of active compounds in stratum corneum-partitioning between corneocytes and lipid matrix.

The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway. In this work, 3D mass spectrometry imaging is used to determine the spatial distributions of four active substances at subcellular resolution in SC, including partitioning between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix. The results indicate that caffeine, 2-methyl resorcinol and oxybenzone are homogeneously distributed in the corneocytes but largely absent in the lipid matrix, despite considerable differences in lipophilicity. In contrast, the distribution- of jasmonic acid derivative is more inhomogeneous and indicates considerable localization to both the lipid phase and the corneocytes.

Inter-laboratory study of the skin distribution of 4-n-butyl resorcinol in ex vivo pig and human skin.

4-n-butyl resorcinol (4-nBR) is a highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor, and can be used in cosmetic product for depigmentation purpose. Its efficacy correlates with 4-nBR that absorbed by skin. In this study, skin distribution of 4-nBR within either human or pig skin ex vivo was studied and compared by three independent laboratories. Good agreement was observed in each compartment considering usual inter-lab variability. This study supports the use of pig skin as an alternative source of skin when the availability of human skin is a limiting factor.

Inter-laboratory skin distribution study of 4-n-butyl resorcinol: The importance of liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS) bioanalytical validation.

In the present study, three laboratories independently compared percutaneous absorption and distribution of 4-n-butylresorcinol, using human skin from five donors. Each laboratory used the same protocol for percutaneous absorption studies but different LC-MS/MS analytical methods to quantify the test compound. All laboratories respected the mass balance criteria (i.e. 100±15%; average 96.5-102% of applied dose). Regarding usual inter-lab variability, good agreement was observed for all compartments with the greatest difference in the epidermis: 3.3 fold increase. The data obtained demonstrate that robustness of skin absorption data rely on properly validated analytical methods including sample extraction and LC-MS/MS method. It also includes clearly defined cutaneous absorption protocol for dose skin preparation, application, washing and tape stripping.