The evolving mechanical response of curly hair fibres subject to fatigue testing.

Cyclic testing of human hair reveals important details about the behaviour of fibres over many cycles of loading. Phenomena which are observed under static tensile tests give important clues about the form and behaviour of hair fibres, but these do not necessarily remain constant on the inevitable march to failure. In previous work, we demonstrated that curly fibres exhibited a toe-region during tensile tests. The form of curly fibres could be altered by mechanical manipulation but the curl could be recovered upon immersion in water. In this study, where straight and curly fibres are subject to cyclic loading, this characteristic toe-region was shown to be present in the first cycle of loading (for curly fibres). As the number of cycles increased (and the curly fibres progressively became straighter), the stress-strain response of curly fibres started to resemble that of straight fibres. This observation supports our previous hypothesis, which states that the toe-region can be attributed to the presence of a hydrogen bonding mechanism, which is present in curly fibres only, and can be altered by mechanical force. Interestingly, the alteration in load-bearing pattern in curly fibres did not necessarily translate to increased endurance, demonstrating that the relationship between fatigue and strength is a complex one in hair fibres.

Untangling the fibre ball: Proteomic characterization of South American camelid hair fibres by untargeted multivariate analysis and molecular networking.

The proteomic analysis of hairs, yarns or textiles has emerged as a powerful method to determine species of origin, mainly used in archaeozoological research and fraud control. Differentiation between the South American camelid (SAC) species (the wild guanaco and vicuña and their respective domesticates the llama and alpaca) is particularly challenging due to poor database information and significant hybridization between species. In this study, we analysed 41 modern and 4 archaeological samples from the four SACs species. Despite strong similarities with Old World Camelidae, we identified 7 peptides specific to SACs assigned to keratin K86 and the keratin-associated proteins KAP13-1 and KAP11-1. Untargeted multivariate analysis of the LC-MS data permitted to distinguish SAC species and propose discriminant features. MS/MS-based molecular networking combined with database-assisted de novo sequencing permitted to identify 5 new taxonomic peptides assigned to K33a, K81 and/or K83 keratins and KAP19-1. These peptides differentiate the two wild species, guanaco and vicuña. These results show the value of combining database search and untargeted metabolomic approaches for paleoproteomics, and reveal for the first time the potential of molecular networks to highlight deamidation related to diagenesis and cluster highly similar peptides related to interchain homologies or intra- or inter-specific polymorphism. SIGNIFICANCE: This study used an innovative approach combining multivariate analysis of LC-MS data together with molecular networking and database-assisted de novo sequencing to identify taxonomic peptides in palaeoproteomics. It constitutes the first attempt to differentiate between hair fibres from the four South American camelids (SACs) based on proteomic analysis of modern and archaeological samples. It provides different proteomic signatures for each of the four SAC species and proposes new SAC taxonomic peptides of interest in archaeozoology and fraud control. SACs have been extensively exploited since human colonization of South America but have not been studied to the extent of their economic, cultural and heritage importance. Applied to the analysis of ancient Andean textiles, our results should permit a better understanding of cultural and pastoral practices in South America. The wild SACs are endangered by poaching and black-market sale of their fibre. For the first time, our results provide discriminant features for the determination of species of origin of contraband fibre.