Discovery of (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide among N-substituted cinnamamide derivatives as a novel cosmetic ingredient for hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharides promote skin barrier repair through the Claudin family.

BACKGROUND: Plant polysaccharides have various biological activities. However, few studies have been conducted on the skin barrier of Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharide extract (PURP). MATERIALS AND METHODS: The proportions of polysaccharides, monosaccharides and proteins were determined by extracting polysaccharides from fruit meal using water. The healing rate was measured by cell scratch assays. SDS-damaged reconstructed human epidermal models, an acetone-ether-induced mouse model and an IL-4-induced cellular inflammation model were used to detect the effects of polysaccharides on the phenotype, HA, TEWL, and TEER, with further characterizations performed using QRT-PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence (IF) assays. RESULTS: PURP contained 35.73% polysaccharides and 11.1% proteins. PURP promoted cell migration and increased skin thickness in a reconstructed human epidermis model. The TEWL significantly decreased, and the HA content significantly increased. PURP significantly increased the TEER and decreased the permeability of the SDS-damaged reconstructed human epidermis model. Claudin-3, Claudin-4, and Claudin-5 were significantly upregulated. IF and Western blot analysis revealed that the Claudin-4 level significantly increased after treatment with PURP. Claudin-1, Claudin-3, Claudin-4, and Claudin-5 gene expression and IF and immunohistochemical staining were significantly increased in mice treated with acetone-ether. PURP promoted the expression of Claudin-1, Claudin-3, Claudin-4, and Claudin-5 after treatment with 100 ng/mL IL-4. PURP also downregulated the expression of NO, IL6, TNFα and NFκB in Raw 264.7 cells and in a mouse model. CONCLUSION: We hypothesize that PURP may repair the skin barrier by promoting the expression of the claudin family and can assist in skin therapy.

Reconstructed human epidermis-based testing strategy of skin sensitization potential and potency classification using epidermal sensitization assay and in silico data.

The hazards and potency of skin sensitizers are traditionally determined using animal tests such as the local lymph node assay (LLNA); however, significant progress has been made in the development of non-animal test methods addressing the first three mechanistic key events of adverse outcome pathway in skin sensitization. We developed the epidermal sensitization assay (EpiSensA), which is a reconstructed human epidermis-based assay, by measuring four genes related to critical keratinocyte responses during skin sensitization. Four in vitro skin sensitization test methods (EpiSensA, direct peptide reactivity assay [DPRA], KeratinoSens™, and human cell line activation test [h-CLAT]) were systematically evaluated using 136 chemicals including lipophilic chemicals and pre/pro-haptens, which may be related to assay-specific limitations. The constructed database included existing and newly generated data. The EpiSensA showed a broader applicability domain and predicted the hazards with 82.4% and 78.8% accuracy than LLNA and human data. The EpiSensA could detect 76 out of 88 sensitizers at lower concentrations than the LLNA, indicating that the EpiSensA has higher sensitivity for the detection of minor sensitizing constituents. These results confirmed the potential use of the EpiSensA in evaluating a mixture of unknown compositions that can be evaluated by animal tests. To combine different information sources, the reconstructed human epidermis-based testing strategy (RTS) was developed based on weighted multiple information from the EpiSensA and TImes MEtabolism Simulator platform for predicting Skin Sensitization (TIMES-SS; RTSv1) or Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) QSAR Toolbox automated workflow (RTSv2). The predictivities of the hazards and Globally Harmonized System (GHS) subcategories were equal to or better than the defined approaches (2 out of 3, integrated testing strategy [ITS]v1, and ITSv2) adopted as OECD Guideline 497.

The inter-laboratory validation study of EpiSensA for predicting skin sensitization potential.

The Epidermal Sensitization Assay (EpiSensA) is a reconstructed human epidermis (RhE)-based gene expression assay for predicting the skin sensitization potential of chemicals. Since the RhE model is covered by a stratified stratum corneum, various kinds of test chemicals, including lipophilic ones and pre-/pro-haptens, can be tested with a route of exposure akin to an in vivo assay and human exposure. This article presents the results of a formally managed validation study of the EpiSensA that was carried out by three participating laboratories. The purpose of this validation study was to assess transferability of the EpiSensA to new laboratories along with its within- (WLR) and between-laboratory reproducibility (BLR). The validation study was organized into two independent stages. As demonstrated during the first stage, where three sensitizers and one non-sensitizer were correctly predicted by all participating laboratories, the EpiSensA was successfully transferred to all three participating laboratories. For Phase I of the second stage, each participating laboratory performed three experiments with an identical set of 15 coded test chemicals resulting in WLR of 93.3%, 93.3%, and 86.7%, respectively. Furthermore, when the results from the 15 test chemicals were combined with those of the additional 12 chemicals tested in Phase II of the second stage, the BLR for 27 test chemicals was 88.9%. Moreover, the predictive capacity among the three laboratories showed 92.6% sensitivity, 63.0% specificity, 82.7% accuracy, and 77.8% balanced accuracy based on murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) results. Overall, this validation study concluded that EpiSensA is easily transferable and sufficiently robust for assessing the skin sensitization potential of chemicals.

Human relevance of in vivo and in vitro skin irritation tests for hazard classification of pesticides.

Background: Test methods to inform hazard characterization and labeling of pesticides to protect human health are typically conducted using laboratory animals, and for skin irritation/corrosion the rabbit Draize test is currently required by many regulatory agencies. Although the Draize test is generally regarded to provide protective classifications for human health, new approach methodologies (NAMs) have been developed that offer more human relevant models that circumvent the uncertainty associated with species differences that exist between rabbits and humans. Despite wide applicability and use of these test methods across a broad range of chemicals, they have not been widely adopted for testing pesticides and pesticidal formulations. One of the barriers to adoption of these methods in this sector is low concordance with results from the Draize rabbit test, particularly for chemicals within the mild to moderate irritation spectrum.Methods: This review compares and contrasts the extent to which available models used in skin irritation testing mimic the anatomy and physiology of human skin, and how each aligns with the known key events leading to chemically-induced adverse skin irritation and corrosion. Doing so fully characterizes the human relevance of each method.Results: As alternatives to the rabbit Draize test, several protocols using ex vivo, in chemico, and in vitro skin models are available as internationally harmonized test guidelines. These methods rely on a variety of models of human skin, including excised rodent skin, synthetic biochemical models of barrier function, cell culture systems, and reconstructed human tissue models. We find these models exhibit biological and mechanistic relevance aligned with human skin irritation responses. Further, recent retrospective analyses have shown that the reproducibility of the Draize test is less than 50% for mild and moderate responses, with many of the replicate predictions spanning more than one category (e.g., a moderate response reported in one study followed by a non-irritant response reported in another study).Conclusions: Based on this comparative evaluation, we recommend top-down and bottom-up testing strategies that use the most human relevant in vitro test methods for skin irritation and corrosion classification of pesticides and pesticide formulations. To further discriminate among mild and non-irritant formulations, optimization of a cytokine release protocol and subsequent analyses of reference formulation test results is recommended.

The hyaluronan metabolism in the UV-irradiated human epidermis and the relevance of in vitro epidermal models.

Exposure to the sun affects the skin and may eventually result in UV-induced skin damage. It is generally known that hyaluronan (HA) is one of the main structural and functional components of the skin. However, UV-related changes in the HA metabolism in the skin have not yet been elucidated. Using qRT-PCR, confocal microscopy and LC-MS/MS we compared the naturally sun-exposed (SE), sun-protected, experimentally repeatedly UVA + UVB-exposed and acutely (once) UVA + UVB irradiated skin of Caucasian women. The epidermis was harvested by means of suction blistering 24 h after the acute irradiation. In addition, the epidermis was compared with a UV-irradiated in vitro reconstituted 3D epidermis (EpiDerm) and an in vitro 2D culture of normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The amount of HA was found to be statistically significantly enhanced in the acutely irradiated epidermis. The acute UV evinced the upregulation of HA synthases (HAS2 and HAS3), hyaluronidases (HYAL2 and HYAL3), Cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44), and Cell Migration Inducing Proteins (CEMIP and CEMIP2), while only certain changes were recapitulated in the 3D epidermis. For the first time, we demonstrated the enhanced gene and protein expression of CEMIP and CEMIP2 following UV irradiation in the human epidermis. The data suggest that the HA metabolism is affected by UV in the irradiated epidermis and that the response can be modulated by the underlying dermis.

Human Epidermal Keratinocytes in Culture: A Story of Multiple Recipes for a Single Cell Type.

BACKGROUND: For one half-century, cultures of human epidermal keratinocytes have opened new paths of research in skin biology and dermatology. Either performed with serum and feeder layer, in serum-free conditions, or in autocrine conditions, cells cultured as monolayers became research materials for basic science and dermatology, as well as a source for grafting, particularly to treat severely burned patients. More recently, tissue reconstruction at air-liquid interface has opened new perspectives for in vitro toxicology, studies of epidermal barrier, and modeling skin diseases. SUMMARY: This review presents a brief retrospective of the emergence of keratinocyte-based culture techniques. It also presents opportunities and eventual problems that researchers might encounter when exploring the skin using such procedures. KEY MESSAGES: While methodologies in tissue culture evolve, the multiplicity of procedures concomitantly increases, requiring to make some selective but difficult choice. Keeping tracks of technological evolution in epidermal cell culture should help choosing the adequate methodology for a specific investigation or innovating with new, more dedicated ones.

Interactions between Malassezia and New Therapeutic Agents in Atopic Dermatitis Affecting Skin Barrier and Inflammation in Recombinant Human Epidermis Model.

Several studies have reported the pathogenic role of Malassezia in atopic dermatitis (AD); the significance of Malassezia's influence on AD needs to be further investigated. Dupilumab, a monoclonal antibody to anti-Interleukin (IL) 4Rα, and ruxolitinib, a Janus kinase (JAK)1/2 inhibitor, are the first approved biologics and inhibitors widely used for AD treatment. In this study, we aimed to investigate how Malassezia Restricta (M. restricta) affects the skin barrier and inflammation in AD and interacts with the AD therapeutic agents ruxolitinib and anti-IL4Rα. To induce an in vitro AD model, a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was treated with IL-4 and IL-13. M. restricta was inoculated on the surface of RHE, and anti-IL4Rα or ruxolitinib was supplemented to model treated AD lesions. Histological and molecular analyses were performed. Skin barrier and ceramide-related molecules were downregulated by M. restricta and reverted by anti-IL4Rα and ruxolitinib. Antimicrobial peptides, VEGF, Th2-related, and JAK/STAT pathway molecules were upregulated by M. restricta and suppressed by anti-IL4Rα and ruxolitinib. These findings show that M. restricta aggravated skin barrier function and Th2 inflammation and decreased the efficacy of anti-IL4Rα and ruxolitinib.

Transferability and reproducibility of the EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay.

A novel in vitro 3D micronucleus assay was developed in China using the EpiSkin™ 3D human skin model. This EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay showed good predictivity and reproducibility during internal validation and is expected to contribute to in vitro genotoxicity testing as a follow-up for positive results from 2D micronucleus assay. Having developed the assay in one laboratory, further work focused on the transferability and inter-laboratory reproducibility in two additional Chinese authority laboratories (Guangdong Provincial Center for Disease Control and Prevention and Zhejiang Institute for Food and Drug Control). Formal training was provided for both laboratories, which resulted in good transferability based on the results of two positive compounds, such as mitomycin C and vinblastine. Independent experiments were then performed, and inter-laboratory reproducibility was checked using 2-acetylaminofluorene, 5-fluorouracil, 2,4-dichlorophenol, and d-limonene. The dose-responses of the positive control chemical, mitomycin C, were similar to those of the developing laboratory, and all test chemicals were correctly classified by all laboratories. Overall, there was a good transferability as well as intra- and inter-laboratory reproducibility of the EpiSkin™ Micronucleus Assay. This study further confirmed the assay's robustness and provided confidence to enter following validation stages for scientific acceptance.

Stratum corneum ceramide profiles in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo: characterization of the α-hydroxy double esterified ceramides.

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSn). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS2/MS3 analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.

Electron paramagnetic resonance and spin trapping to detect free radicals from allergenic hydroperoxides in contact with the skin: From the molecule to the tissue.

A major research topic consists of revealing the contribution of radical-mediated reactions in dermatological diseases related to xenobiotic-induced stress to succeed risk-assessment procedures protecting producers and consumers. Allergic contact dermatitis is the clinically relevant consequence of skin sensitization, one of the most critical occupational and environmental health issues related to xenobiotics exposure. The first key event identified for the skin sensitization process to a chemical is its aptitude to react with epidermal proteins and form antigenic structures that will further trigger the immune response. Many chemical sensitizers are suspected to react through mechanisms involving radical intermediates. This review focuses on the recent progress we have accomplished over the last few years studying radical intermediates derived from skin-sensitizing chemicals by electron paramagnetic resonance in combination with the spin-trapping technique. Our work is carried out "from the molecule", performing studies in solution, "to the tissue", by the development of a methodology on a reconstructed human epidermis model, very close in terms of histology and metabolic/enzymatic activity to real human epidermis, that can be used as suitable biological tissue model. The benefits are to test chemicals under conditions close to human use and real-life sensitization exposures and benefit from the three-dimensional (3D) microenvironment.

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin.

OBJECTIVE: The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High-frequency ultrasonication technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilization of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients, such as emulsifying surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesized by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions. METHODS: The pH, droplet size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared. RESULTS: The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average droplet size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20%-30% only. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

OBJECTIF: l'industrie cosmétique œuvre à renforcer les revendications plus écologiques et plus sûres des processus pour répondre à la forte demande des clients de produits naturels et plus respectueux de l'environnement. La technologie d'ultrasons à haute fréquence (High-Frequency Ultrasonication Technology, HFUT) est un processus physique permettant de stabiliser les émulsions sans qu'il soit nécessaire d'ajouter des ingrédients supplémentaires, tels que des surfactants émulsifiants, aux formulations. Dans cette étude, les principales caractéristiques de formulation d'une émulsion synthétisée par HFUT et d'une émulsion de référence ont été comparées, ainsi que la cinétique de perméation de la caféine, utilisée comme ingrédient cosmétique actif modèle, dans les deux types d'émulsion. MÉTHODES: le pH, la taille des gouttelettes, et la viscosité de l'émulsion préparée par HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence ont été déterminés et comparés. La perméation de la caféine de l'émulsion HFUT et de l'émulsion de référence appliquées à la surface de modèles d'épiderme humain reconstruit a été comparée. RÉSULTATS: la formulation sans surfactants émulsifiants préparée par HFUT présentait une taille moyenne de gouttelettes presque 2 fois plus faible et une viscosité plus de 3 fois supérieure comparée à l'émulsion de référence. Malgré ces différences, l'absence de surfactants émulsifiants dans l'émulsion HFUT n'a pas significativement modifié la cinétique de perméation de la caféine dans l'épiderme humain reconstruit. Le flux à l'état d'équilibre de la caféine, le temps de latence et les coefficients de perméabilité différaient de 20 à 30 % uniquement. CONCLUSION: cette étude démontre le potentiel de la technologie HFUT à générer des produits cosmétiques topiques possédant des exigences plus faibles en termes d'ingrédients, sans perte d'efficacité, soutenant la mise en œuvre éventuelle de la technologie dans l'industrie cosmétique.

Development and characterization of a 3D in vitro model mimicking acneic skin.

Acne is an inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit, involving four essential factors: hyperseborrhoea combined to a modification of sebum composition, colonization by Cutibacterium (C.) acnes, hyperkeratinization and secreted inflammation. Understanding and mimicking compromised skin is essential to further develop appropriate therapeutic solutions. This study aimed to develop new in vitro 3D models mimicking acneic skin, by combining two main factors involved in the physiopathology, namely, altered sebum composition and C. acnes invasion. Normal human keratinocytes were first used to generate reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) that were then left untreated (control) or treated topically with a combination of both peroxidized squalene and C. acnes cultures. Once validated, this model considered relevant to mimic acneic skin, was further improved by using different phylotypes of C. acnes strains specifically isolated from healthy and acneic patients. While both phylotypes IB and II did not significantly alter RHE, C. acnes IA1 strains induce major acneic skin hallmarks such as hyperkeratinization, secreted inflammation and altered barrier function. Interestingly, these results are obtained independently of the origin of IA1 phylotypes (acneic vs. healthy patient), thus suggesting a role of the ecosystem in controlling C. acnes virulence in healthy skin. In conclusion, by combining two major factors involved in the physiopathology of acne, we (1) succeeded to design in vitro 3D models mimicking this skin disorder and (2) highlighted how C. acnes phylotypes can have an impact on epidermal physiology. These relevant models will be suitable for the substantiation of therapeutic molecules dedicated to acne treatment.

Direct assessment of individual skin barrier components by electrical impedance spectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Expression of the tight junction proteins Cldn1 and 4 is altered in skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, and Cldn1 deficiency affects skin barrier formation. Impedance spectroscopy (IS) has been proven to allow detection of alterations in the skin barrier but is currently unable to separate effects on viable epidermis (VE) and stratum corneum (SC). METHODS: Effects of siRNA-mediated Cldn1 and 4 knockdown in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) on VE and SC barrier function were investigated with Ussing chamber-based IS. Barrier components were sequentially altered, employing iron oxide nanoparticles and EGTA, to identify their contribution to the impedance spectrum. Resistance changes due to apically applied hyperosmolar electrolyte were used to identify barrier defects non-invasively. RESULTS: IS of RHE yielded two relaxation frequencies, representing the barrier properties of the SC (~1000 Hz) and VE (~100 Hz). As proof of concept, it was shown that the Cldn1 knockdown-induced resistance drop arises from the impairment of both SC and VE, indicated by a shift of both relaxation frequencies. Hyperosmolar electrolyte penetration allowed non-invasive detection of Cldn1 knockdown via time-dependent frequency shifts. The absence of Cldn4 knockdown-induced changes revealed the weaknesses of transepithelial electrical resistance analysis. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, the present technique allows to separately measure the barrier properties of SC and VE and further evaluate the Cldn1 and 4 knockdown impact on the skin barrier. As the measurement with agarose-embedded electrolyte allowed non-invasive identification of the Cldn1 knockdown, this opens the way to detailed in vivo skin barrier assessment.

Computational flow cytometric analysis to detect epidermal subpopulations in human skin.

BACKGROUND: The detection and dissection of epidermal subgroups could lead to an improved understanding of skin homeostasis and wound healing. Flow cytometric analysis provides an effective method to detect the surface markers of epidermal cells while producing high-dimensional data files. METHODS: A 9-color flow cytometric panel was optimized to reveal the heterogeneous subgroups in the epidermis of human skin. The subsets of epidermal cells were characterized using automated methods based on dimensional reduction approaches (viSNE) and clustering with Spanning-tree Progression Analysis of Density-normalized Events (SPADE). RESULTS: The manual analysis revealed differences in epidermal distribution between body sites based on a series biaxial gating starting with the expression of CD49f and CD29. The computational analysis divided the whole epidermal cell population into 25 clusters according to the surface marker phenotype with SPADE. This automatic analysis delineated the differences between body sites. The consistency of the results was confirmed with PhenoGraph. CONCLUSION: A multicolor flow cytometry panel with a streamlined computational analysis pipeline is a feasible approach to delineate the heterogeneity of the epidermis in human skin.

Skin Disease Models In Vitro and Inflammatory Mechanisms: Predictability for Drug Development.

Investigative skin biology, analysis of human skin diseases, and numerous clinical and pharmaceutical applications rely on skin models characterized by reproducibility and predictability. Traditionally, such models include animal models, mainly rodents, and cellular models. While animal models are highly useful in many studies, they are being replaced by human cellular models in more and more approaches amid recent technological development due to ethical considerations. The culture of keratinocytes and fibroblasts has been used in cell biology for many years. However, only the development of co-culture and three-dimensional epidermis and full-skin models have fundamentally contributed to our understanding of cell-cell interaction and cell signalling in the skin, keratinocyte adhesion and differentiation, and mechanisms of skin barrier function. The modelling of skin diseases has highlighted properties of the skin important for its integrity and cutaneous development. Examples of monogenic as well as complex diseases including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis have demonstrated the role of skin models to identify pathomechanisms and drug targets. Recent investigations have indicated that 3D skin models are well suitable for drug testing and preclinical studies of topical therapies. The analysis of skin diseases has recognized the importance of inflammatory mechanisms and immune responses and thus other cell types such as dendritic cells and T cells in the skin. Current developments include the production of more complete skin models comprising a range of different cell types. Organ models and even multi-organ systems are being developed for the analysis of higher levels of cellular interaction and drug responses and are among the most recent innovations in skin modelling. They promise improved robustness and flexibility and aim at a body-on-a-chip solution for comprehensive pharmaceutical in vitro studies.

Comprehensive characterization and simultaneous analysis of overall lipids in reconstructed human epidermis using NPLC/HR-MSn: 1-O-E (EO) Cer, a new ceramide subclass.

Stratum corneum lipids are responsible for the skin's barrier function. They are the final product of epidermis lipid biosynthesis. During this process, lipids evolve from simple to complex structures in three main levels respectively (stratum basal level, stratum granulosum level, and stratum corneum level). Our aim was to simultaneously analyze and characterize the structure of total epidermis lipids. A powerful analytical method (normal-phase liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (NPLC/HR-MSn)) was developed in order to separate, in a single run, lipid classes with a wide polarity range. Chromatographic conditions were particularly designed to analyze lipids of intermediate polarity such as ceramides. Rich information was obtained about the molecular structure of keratinocyte differentiation biomarkers such as ceramides, glucosylceramides, and sphingomyelins and the microstructures of reconstructed human epidermis lipids using HR-MSn. A new subclass of ceramides, 1-O-Acyl Omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer] has been highlighted. This class is double esterified on the 1-O-position of sphingoid base with long to very long chain acyl residues (1-O-E) and on the position of ω-hydroxyl group of fatty acid with the linolenic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. In addition, we detected a new epidermis sphingomyelins. Our lipidomic approach offers a direct access to epidermis biomarkers.

Ichthyosis: A Road Model for Skin Research.

The understanding of monogenetic disorders of cornification, including the group of diseases called ichthyoses, has expanded greatly in recent years. Studies of the aetiology of more than 50 types of ichthyosis have almost invariably uncovered errors in the biosynthesis of epidermal lipids or structural proteins essential for normal skin barrier function. The barrier abnormality per se may elicit epidermal inflammation, hyperproliferation and hyperkeratosis, potentially contributing to the patient's skin symptoms. Despite this and other new knowledge about pathomechanisms, treatment of ichthyosis often remains unsatisfactory. This review highlights a series of approaches used to elucidate the pathobiology and clinical consequences of different types of ichthyosis, and related diseases with the ultimate goal of finding new and better treatments.

Me-too validation study for in vitro skin irritation test with a reconstructed human epidermis model, KeraSkin™ for OECD test guideline 439.

We conducted a me-too validation study to confirm the reproducibility, reliability, and predictive capacity of KeraSkin™ skin irritation test (SIT) as a me-too method of OECD TG 439. With 20 reference chemicals, within-laboratory reproducibility (WLR) of KeraSkin™ SIT in the decision of irritant or non-irritant was 100%, 100%, and 95% while between-laboratory reproducibility (BLR) was 100%, which met the criteria of performance standard (PS, WLR≥90%, BLR≥80%). WLR and BLR were further confirmed with intra-class correlation (ICC, coefficients >0.950). WLR and BLR in raw data (viability) were also shown with a scatter plot and Bland-Altman plot. Comparison with existing VRMs with Bland-Altman plot, ICC and kappa statistics confirmed the compatibility of KeraSkin™ SIT with OECD TG 439. The predictive capacity of KeraSkin™ SIT was estimated with 20 reference chemicals (the sensitivity of 98.9%, the specificity of 70%, and the accuracy of 84.4%) and additional 46 chemicals (for 66 chemicals [20 + 46 chemicals, the sensitivity, specificity and accuracy: 95.2%, 82.2% and 86.4%]). The receiver operating characteristic (ROC) analysis suggested a potential improvement of the predictive capacity, especially sensitivity, when changing cut-off (50% → 60-75%). Collectively, the me-too validation study demonstrated that KeraSkin™ SIT can be a new me-too method for OECD TG 439.

Modifications induced by chemical skin allergens on the metabolome of reconstructed human epidermis: A pilot high-resolution magic angle spinning nuclear magnetic resonance study.

BACKGROUND: High-resolution magic angle spinning (HRMAS) is a nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) technique that enables the characterization of metabolic phenotypes/metabolite profiles of cells, tissues, and organs, under both normal and pathological conditions, without resorting to time-consuming extraction techniques. OBJECTIVES: To assess the impact of chemical skin sensitizers vs non-sensitizers on the metabolome of three-dimensional reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) by HRMAS NMR. METHODS: Based on the SENS-IS assay, 12 skin sensitizers and five non-sensitizing chemicals were investigated and applied on EpiSkin RHE at the published maximal non-irritating concentrations under the conditions of the test. The metabolome of RHE samples was then analyzed by HRMAS NMR. RESULTS: A total of 32 different metabolites were identified; 20 of these were quantified for all samples. Statistical univariate analysis showed that the tissue content of most measured metabolites (with the exception of acetate and glucose) was different in the untreated, treated with non-sensitizers, and treated with sensitizers samples. In RHE samples in contact with sensitizing chemicals, concentrations of 18 metabolites were significantly decreased. Alanine and tyrosine could not discriminate between sensitizer- and non-sensitizer-treated groups. A multivariate partial least-squares-discriminant analysis was performed on the two treated groups, discriminating sensitizing and non-sensitizing chemicals with a very good R2Y value of 0.87 and a good Q2Y value of 0.70. CONCLUSIONS: Data suggest that HRMAS NMR could be used to monitor the impact of chemicals, skin allergens vs non-sensitizers, on the metabolome of three-dimensional RHE.