In vivo analysis of the stratum corneum of Japanese neonates and infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy: a pilot study.

BACKGROUND: Physiological skin properties of neonates and infants change drastically after birth and are implicated in the onset of atopic dermatitis and other diseases. Studies have measured physiological skin properties in infants; however, how these properties change over time remains unclear. No reports have measured ceramide in the stratum corneum of infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy; hence, we used it to measure the physiological properties of the skin, including ceramide, in infants. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The water content and other factors in the skin of infants aged 0, 1, and 6 months were measured. All measurements were performed five times indoors at 22 ± 2°C and 50% ± 10% relative humidity in the middle of the calf at 4-µm distances, and their mean was calculated. RESULTS: The water content of the area between the skin surface and superficial layers was the lowest in newborns as compared with other ages, and the deeper the skin layer, the higher the water content. The stratum corneum, evaluated using confocal Raman spectroscopy, was the thickest in newborns and gradually thinned with age. Its water content was the lowest in newborns. The levels of natural moisturizing factor, ceramide, and cholesterol were higher in newborns and tended to decrease with age. CONCLUSION: This report is the first to evaluate ceramide in the stratum corneum of infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy and could help in conducting subsequent longitudinal measurements of physiological skin properties in neonates and infants.

Label-free Raman spectroscopy characterizes signatures of inflammation and fibrosis in the silicosis.

Silicosis is an occupational disease that seriously damages the life and health of miners. Herein, we constructed a mouse model of silicosis and used label-free confocal Raman spectroscopy to analyze the biomolecular variations in lung fibrous nodules and inflammatory sites. The mice were exposed to silica particles for 1 month (SIL-1M group), 3 months (SIL-3M group), or no exposure (control tissues, NS). Raman spectra obtained from treated and untreated lung tissue were subjected to chemometric analysis to quantify biochemical composition differences in the silicosis. Simultaneously, immunohistochemistry and collagen staining were used to evaluate inflammation, fibrosis, and apoptosis. As a result, the SIL-1M and SIL-3M groups showed significant differences in cholesterol, lipids, amino acids, nucleic acids, and cytochrome C, and the collagen peaks at 1248 cm-1 and 1448 cm-1 were significantly higher than in the NS group. Notably, glycogen and phospholipid may be an inflammatory indicator consistent with NF-κB expression. In addition, significant differences in collagen and cytochrome C content in silicosis lung tissue were found using Raman spectroscopy and were verified by Masson's staining and Bax/Bcl-2 expression ratio. In summary, our findings provide a label-free technique to understand the biochemical changes in lung inflammatory and fibrosis microenvironment after exposure to silica particles and provide a valuable reference for studying the mechanism of silicosis.

ex vivo-in vivo comparison of drug penetration analysis by confocal Raman microspectroscopy and tape stripping.

When it comes to skin penetration analysis of a topically applied formulation, the number of suitable methods is limited, and they often lack in spatial resolution. In vivo studies are pivotal, especially in the approval of a new product, but high costs and ethical difficulties are limiting factors. For that reason, good ex vivo models for testing skin penetration are crucial. In this study, caffeine was used as a hydrophilic model drug, applied as a 2% (w/w) hydrogel, to compare different techniques for skin penetration analysis. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) and tape stripping with subsequent HPLC analysis were used to quantify caffeine. Experiments were performed ex vivo and in vivo. Furthermore, the effect of 5% (w/w) 1,2-pentanediol on caffeine skin penetration was tested, to compare those methods regarding their effectiveness in detecting differences between both formulations.

To study the effect of acute infrared radiation-induced alterations in human skin at cellular and molecular level using in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Solar radiations are classified in terms of wavelengths, including visible light, infrared, and ultraviolet. Infrared radiation (IR) accounts the largest proportion of solar radiations that cause oxidative stress-induced aging of human skin. This study investigates the biochemical changes in proteins, lipids, and DNA associated with acute exposure to IR radiations. METHOD: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to examine the forearms region of 20 healthy participants with phototype II skin, aged between 18 and 30 years, without IR incidence (T0), with IR incidence 30 minutes (T30) at day 1 and 30 minutes at day 2 (T60). One-way ANOVA and two-tailed t test along with post hoc Bonferroni correction were used to detect the existence of significant differences in the timestamps of stratum corneum, stratum basale, and dermis at all IR wavenumbers under test. RESULTS: An increase in the Raman peaks of stratum corneum lipids, decrease in stratum basal DNA peaks, and a shift in the amide I peak of collagen in the skin dermis were observed. One-way ANOVA results showed significant differences among timestamps of stratum corneum, stratum basale, and dermis at all wavenumbers under test (P < .001). Furthermore, paired timestamps also showed significant differences (P < .016) except at two wavenumbers 1293 cm-1 and 852 cm-1 in stratum corneum and basale layer clusters on timestamps (T0 & T30 and T30 & T60, P > .016). This study proved that confocal Raman spectroscopy is an useful technique for early evaluation of IR-induced skin changes.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy is suitable to assess hair cleansing-derived skin dryness on human scalp.

BACKGROUND: The purpose of this pilot study was to provide information about the washout-dependent depletion of important skin components in the horny layer of the scalp. They were taken as markers for scalp drying effects of cosmetic cleansing products and were measured directly in vivo. METHOD: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to measure the depletion of the total natural moisturizing factor (total NMF) and some of its components (urea and lactic acid) as well as a fraction of stratum corneum lipids, after repeated washing with a standard shampoo on the human scalp. RESULTS: The measurements showed a reduction in the amount of NMF and lipids of the stratum corneum caused by repeated shampooing. CONCLUSION: Confocal Raman spectroscopy is an innovative technology that can be used successfully in vivo on the hairy scalp. The loss of the most important skin components caused by hair washing can be quantified directly with this technology. The method is valuable to support the development cosmetic cleansing products, as it is suitable to directly compare the effects of different product candidates on the human scalp in a most realistic way.

Characterization and ex vivo evaluation of excised skin samples as substitutes for human dermal barrier in pharmaceutical and dermatological studies.

BACKGROUND: Excised animal and human skins are frequently used in permeability testing in pharmaceutical research. Several factors exist that may have influence on the results. In the current study some of the skin parameters that may affect drug permeability were analysed for human, mouse, rat and pig skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Classic biophysical skin parameters were measured (e.g. pH, hydration, permittivity, transepidermal water loss). Physiological characteristics of the skins were also analysed by confocal Raman spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and two-photon microscopy. RESULTS: Based on biophysical testing, skin barrier function was damaged in psoriatic mouse skin and in marketed pig skin. Hydration and pH values were similar among the species, but freezing and thawing reduced the water content of the skins and shifted the surface pH to acidic. Aging reduced hydration and permittivity, resulting in impaired barrier function. Mechanical sensitization used in permeability studies resulted in proportional thinning of dead epidermis. DISCUSSION: Results indicate that depending on the scientific question it should be considered whether fresh or frozen tissue is used, and for certain purposes rodent skins are well usable. The structure of the skin tissue (ceramide, cholesterol, keratin, natural moisturizing factor or urea) is similar in rats and mice, but due to the higher skin thickness the lipid distribution is different in porcine skin. Psoriasis led to irregular chemical composition of the skin. CONCLUSION: A comprehensive evaluation of skin samples of four species was performed. The biophysical and microscopic observations should be considered when selecting drug penetration models and experimental conditions.

Machine Learning Assisted Handheld Confocal Raman Micro-Spectroscopy for Identification of Clinically Relevant Atopic Eczema Biomarkers.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic inflammatory skin dermatosis condition due to skin barrier dysfunction that causes itchy, red, swollen, and cracked skin. Currently, AD severity clinical scores are subjected to intra- and inter-observer differences. There is a need for an objective scoring method that is sensitive to skin barrier differences. The aim of this study was to evaluate the relevant skin chemical biomarkers in AD patients. We used confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and advanced machine learning methods as means to classify eczema patients and healthy controls with sufficient sensitivity and specificity. Raman spectra at different skin depths were acquired from subjects' lower volar forearm location using an in-house developed handheld confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy system. The Raman spectra corresponding to the skin surface from all the subjects were further analyzed through partial least squares discriminant analysis, a binary classification model allowing the classification between eczema and healthy subjects with a sensitivity and specificity of 0.94 and 0.85, respectively, using stratified K-fold (K = 10) cross-validation. The variable importance in the projection score from the partial least squares discriminant analysis classification model further elucidated the role of important stratum corneum proteins and lipids in distinguishing two subject groups.

Estimating the Analytical Performance of Raman Spectroscopy for Quantification of Active Ingredients in Human Stratum Corneum.

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) has become a versatile technique that can be applied routinely to monitor skin penetration of active molecules. In the present study, CRM coupled to multivariate analysis (namely PLSR-partial least squares regression) is used for the quantitative measurement of an active ingredient (AI) applied to isolated (ex vivo) human stratum corneum (SC), using systematically varied doses of resorcinol, as model compound, and the performance is quantified according to key figures of merit defined by regulatory bodies (ICH, FDA, and EMA). A methodology is thus demonstrated to establish the limit of detection (LOD), precision, accuracy, sensitivity (SEN), and selectivity (SEL) of the technique, and the performance according to these key figures of merit is compared to that of similar established methodologies, based on studies available in literature. First, principal components analysis (PCA) was used to examine the variability within the spectral data set collected. Second, ratios calculated from the area under the curve (AUC) of characteristic resorcinol and proteins/lipids bands (1400-1500 cm-1) were used to perform linear regression analysis of the Raman spectra. Third, cross-validated PLSR analysis was applied to perform quantitative analysis in the fingerprint region. The AUC results show clearly that the intensities of Raman features in the spectra collected are linearly correlated to resorcinol concentrations in the SC (R2 = 0.999) despite a heterogeneity in the distribution of the active molecule in the samples. The Root Mean Square Error of Cross-Validation (RMSECV) (0.017 mg resorcinol/mg SC), The Root Mean Square of Prediction (RMSEP) (0.015 mg resorcinol/mg SC), and R2 (0.971) demonstrate the reliability of the linear regression constructed, enabling accurate quantification of resorcinol. Furthermore, the results have enabled the determination, for the first time, of numerical criteria to estimate analytical performances of CRM, including LOD, precision using bias corrected mean square error prediction (BCMSEP), sensitivity, and selectivity, for quantification of the performance of the analytical technique. This is one step further towards demonstrating that Raman spectroscopy complies with international guidelines and to establishing the technique as a reference and approved tool for permeation studies.

New approach for hair keratin characterization: Use of the confocal Raman spectroscopy to assess the effect of thermal stress on human hair fibre.

OBJECTIVE: The objective of our research was to investigate the heat-protecting effect of a product ex vivo and in vivo on human hair fibres. METHODS: A preparatory study was carried out in order to determine an optimal threshold of thermal stress. For this, the structure of cross-sections of the hair fibre was observed by optical microscopy. Then, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) were applied to analyse ex vivo and in vivo morphological and molecular damage in hair structure after heat stress. Finally, in vivo tests were used to collect consumer perception. RESULTS: The preparatory study enabled us to determine an optimal stress threshold of 10 heating cycle for SEM and 5 heating cycle for CRS. Based on spectral hierarchical classification using Ward's clustering algorithm, the ex vivo Raman results show that the spectral signature of the hair treated and heated is very close to the negative control. This shows that the product preserves the keratin structure after thermal stress. These results were also confirmed by an in vivo Raman analysis performed on hair samples from 5 donors. In concordance with Raman results, SEM shows that treated hair presents lesser "bubbles" and "crackling" on the hair surface. Finally, the in vivo studies proved that hair was more protected from heat. CONCLUSION: The authors concluded that the product shows protective properties with respect to morphological and molecular heat damage. We also demonstrate that the product promotes the α-helix keratin conformation and preserves the S-S disulfide bands.

OBJECTIF: L'objectif de notre étude est d'évaluer ex vivo et in vivo l'effet thermoprotecteur d'un produit sur les fibres capillaires humaines. MÉTHODES: Une étude préparatoire a été réalisée afin de déterminer un seuil optimal du stress thermique. Pour cela, la structure des coupes transversales des cheveux a été observée par microscopie optique. Ensuite, la microscopie électronique à balayage (MEB) et la spectroscopie confocale Raman (SCR) ont été appliquées pour analyser les dommages morphologiques et moléculaires (ex vivo et in vivo) de la structure du cheveu après un stress thermique. Enfin, des tests in vivo ont été réalisés pour recueillir la perception des consommateurs. RÉSULTATS: L'étude préparatoire nous a permis de déterminer un seuil de stress thermique optimal correspondant à 10 cycles de chauffage pour la MEB et 5 cycles de chauffage pour la SCR. Basés sur une classification hiérarchique utilisant l'algorithme de Ward, les résultats Raman « ex vivo ¼ montrent que la signature spectrale des cheveux traités et chauffés est très proche du témoin négatif. Cela montre que le produit préserve la structure de la kératine après un stress thermique. Ces résultats ont également été confirmés par une analyse Raman « in vivo ¼ réalisée sur des échantillons de cheveux de 5 donneurs. En concordance avec les résultats Raman, la MEB montre que les cheveux traités présentent moins de « bulles ¼ et de « craquelures ¼ à la surface des cheveux. Enfin, l'étude in vivo a prouvé que les cheveux sont mieux protégés de la chaleur. CONCLUSION: Les auteurs ont conclu que le produit présente des propriétés protectrices vis-à-vis des dommages thermiques morphologiques et moléculaires. Nous avons démontré également que le produit favorise la conformation de la kératine en hélice-α et préserve les bandes disulfures S-S.

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging of the human skin extracellular matrix degradation due to accumulated intrinsic and extrinsic aging.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging is a dynamic process that affects the entire body, marked by molecular and structural changes. Type I collagen is the most abundant structural component and accounts 80% of total collagen in human skin. The amount of proline and hydroxyproline reflect the quantity and quality of the collagen fiber in the extracellular matrix of skin, which is alerted due to accumulated effects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Extrinsic aging is driven by ultraviolet radiation-induced reactive oxygen species production that activates the matrix metalloproteinase and disrupts the extracellular matrix of skin dermis, while intrinsic aging is the non-enzymatic process resulting in advanced glycation end products (AGEs). In the presence of pentosidine-AGEs, aging process is accelerated. METHOD: In vivo Raman spectra of human dermis were collected from forearms of 30 volunteers and were divided into three groups: 10 young adult 25 ± 5 years, 10 old adult 65 ± 10 years and 10 diabetic old adult 65 ± 10 years old male participants. Density functional theory was performed to compute the vibration modes of AGEs, pentosidine, and glucosepane. RESULTS: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy detects the specific changes in the proline and hydroxyproline conformation, collagen fiber degradation of type I collagen and AGE protein contribution to specific Raman bands in the aged dermis because of Intrinsic and Extrinsic aging. Statistical t test marked significant differences (P < .01) in Raman peaks of proline and hydroxyproline among young adult, old adult, and diabetic old adult participants at wavenumbers 855, 875, 922, and 938 cm-1 . CONCLUSION: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy is a useful tool to detect the AGE markers in the old adult and diabetic old adult male participants, which interacts with the ultraviolet radiations and accelerates the aging process resulting in the extracellular matrix degradation.

Measurement of dermal water content by confocal RAMAN spectroscopy to investigate intrinsic aging and photoaging of human skin in vivo.

BACKGROUND: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) revealed a clear correlation of age and dermal water content, indicating increasing water content of the dermis with increasing age. This enhancement of water has been interpreted as an age-dependent depletion, of proteins, mainly of collagen. Chronical sun exposure is known to destroy the collagen network of the skin, which leads to the signs of photoaging as the formation of wrinkles. Noninvasive in vivo measuring techniques for photoaging are limited. Therefore, sensitive techniques to quantify even mild degrees of photoaging in a clinical setting are of high interest. We used CRS to measure the water content in human dermis in vivo, assuming that additionally to the increase of water content in intrinsic aging, photoaging would lead to further collagen depletion and an additional increase in water content of the dermis. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A panel of 24 female subjects of different age-groups and scores of photoaging was recruited. A ranking of high resolution dorsal forearm photographs was used to classify the degree of photoaging with high precision. After that, CRS water content and collagen measurements were performed in the photoexposed dorsal as well as the photoprotected volar dermis of the subjects. RESULTS: A positive correlation of water content in the dermis with age could be confirmed (r = .550). Further, a positive correlation between water content of dorsal dermis and photoaging ranks was observed (Pearson's r = .417). CONCLUSION: Assessment of water content in the dermis with confocal Raman spectroscopy was found to be a promising method to measure the degree of photoaging in human subjects in vivo.

Advanced Formulation Design for Topical Creams Assisted with Vibrational Spectroscopic Imaging.

Vibrational spectroscopic imaging has become useful analytical tools for quality control of drug products. In this study, we applied microscopic attenuated total reflection (ATR)-IR and confocal Raman microscopy to elucidate microscopic structure of creams and for the formulation design in the development of semi-solid drug products. The model creams were prepared with prednisolone (PRD) and fluconazole (FLC) as active pharmaceutical ingredients and oily solvents such as mineral oil (MO), isopropyl myristate (IPM), benzyl alcohol (BA) and diethyl sebacate (DES). As a result of microscopic ATR-IR imaging, several domains indicating oily internal phase were observed, which had absorption around 1732 and 1734 cm-1 derived from MO, IPM and DES. In addition, domains of BA around 1009 cm-1 were observed at the complemental or similar position in the formulation with MO or DES, respectively. These results suggested that the creams were oil-in-water type and the distribution of domains would reflect the compatibility of the solvents. The contents of PRD and BA were determined quantitatively in each layer after the intentional separation of the creams and the results agreed well with the imaging analysis. Whereas, confocal Raman imaging allowed to visualize the distribution of the components in depth direction as well as two-dimensional plane. In particular, the Raman imaging would ensure the coexistence of FLC and BA as oily phase in the cream. From these results, the feasibility of spectroscopic imaging techniques was successfully demonstrated for the formulation design of semi-solid dosage forms.

A New Method for In-Situ Skin Penetration Analysis by Confocal Raman Microscopy.

In the development of dermal drug formulations and cosmetics, understanding the penetration properties of the active ingredients is crucial. Given that widespread methods, including tape stripping, lack in spatial resolution, while being time- and labour-intensive, Confocal Raman Microscopy is a promising alternative. In optimizing topically applied formulations, or the development of generic formulations, comparative in-situ measurements have a huge potential of saving time and resources. In this work, we show our approach to in-situ skin penetration analysis by confocal Raman Microscopy. To analyse feasibility of the approach, we used caffeine solutions as model vehicles and tested the effectiveness of 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer for delivery to the skin.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy as a tool to measure the prevention of skin penetration by a specifically designed topical medical device.

BACKGROUND/AIM: The scope of this study was to utilize confocal Raman spectroscopy in the evaluation of the degree of non-penetration into the viable skin layers of a paraffin and petrolatum-based product for use in the intimate areas of the skin. The formulation was purposely designed with properties to prevent undesirable skin penetration. METHODS: Product-The test product was a proprietary topical medical device comprising paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, paraffin, and tocopheryl acetate. Volunteers-A total of 20 healthy volunteers were recruited onto the study-17 females and three males. Product Testing-Raman spectra were obtained at Baseline and 90 minutes after product application. Product Penetration-Skin penetration was calculated from Raman spectra taken at skin depths of -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 µm. RESULTS: Raman spectra of the investigated product could be clearly differentiated from the skin spectrum. The minimum measurable concentration of the test product was determined at a detection level of 0.5%. In this study, the test product did not penetrate down to skin depths of 10 to 20 µm. CONCLUSIONS: Within the precision range of the test method, the investigated product did not penetrate into the compact part of the stratum corneum. The study revealed Raman spectroscopy to be suitable to detect not only penetration but also non-penetration of substances into human skin.

The role of viscosity on skin penetration from cellulose ether-based hydrogels.

BACKGROUND: The rheological properties of dermal drug delivery systems are of importance when designing new formulations. Viscosity not only affects features such as spreadability and skin feel, but may also affect the skin penetration of incorporated actives. Data on the latter aspect are controversial. Our objective was to elucidate the relation between viscosity and drug delivery performance of different model hydrogels assuming that enhanced microviscosity might delay drug release and penetration. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Hydrogels covering a broad viscosity range were prepared by adding either HPMC or HEC as gelling agents in different concentrations. To investigate the ability of the gels to deliver a model drug into the skin, sulphadiazine sodium was incorporated and its in vitro skin penetration was monitored using tape stripping/HPLC analysis and non-invasive confocal Raman spectroscopy. RESULTS: The trends observed with the two different experimental setups were comparable. Drug penetration depths decreased slightly with increasing viscosity, suggesting slower drug release due to the increasingly dense gel networks. However, the total penetrated drug amounts were independent of the exact formulation viscosity. CONCLUSION: Drug penetration was largely unaffected by hydrogel viscosity. Moderately enhanced viscosity is advisable when designing cellulose ether hydrogels to allow for convenient application.

In vivo Change of Keratin-Bound Molecules in the Human Stratum Corneum following Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation.

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation damages the stratum corneum (SC) and disrupts the skin barrier. The damaged skin changes in the molecular composition of the SC, including its water content. However, it is difficult to examine the in vivo SC changes with existing methods, so those have not been well characterized. Therefore, we investigated in vivo changes of UV-induced SC damage using confocal Raman spectroscopy. METHOD: We irradiated the volar forearm of 10 subjects with 0.5, 1, and 1.5 minimal erythemal doses of UV radiation. Then, we examined erythema, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the water content, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and the lipids of the skin. RESULTS: After UV irradiation, erythema and TEWL of the skin were both increased. The bound water content of the SC was also increased following UV irradiation. The NMF of the SC revealed different tendencies. All free amino acids (FAAs) of the NMF were increased after UV irradiation, except proline. trans-urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactate, and urea, which are NMF components produced by the subsequent catabolism of FAAs and sweat, were decreased after UV irradiation. The amount of ceramide in the SC was also decreased after UV exposure, while cholesterol was increased. CONCLUSIONS: The bound water content of the SC was increased by UV exposure along with increasing TEWL, several NMF components, and cholesterol. These in vivo results for UV-damaged SC obtained via Raman spectroscopy could be applied to research with regard to protecting the SC from UV radiation and treating UV-damaged SC.

Rapid Determination of the Distribution of Cellulose Nanomaterial Aggregates in Composites Enabled by Multi-Channel Spectral Confocal Microscopy.

There is increased interest in the use of cellulose nanomaterials for the mechanical reinforcement of composites due to their high stiffness and strength. However, challenges remain in accurately determining their distribution within composite microstructures. We report the use of a range of techniques used to image aggregates of cellulose nanocrystals (CNCs) greater than 10 µm2 within a model thermoplastic polymer. While Raman imaging accurately determines CNC aggregate size, it requires extended periods of analysis and the limited observable area results in poor reproducibility. In contrast, staining the CNCs with a fluorophore enables rapid acquisition with high reproducibility, but overestimates the aggregate size as CNC content increases. Multi-channel spectral confocal laser scanning microscopy is presented as an alternative technique that combines the accuracy of Raman imaging with the speed and reproducibility of conventional confocal laser scanning microscopy, enabling the rapid determination of CNC aggregate distribution within composites.

Deposition of plant lipids after single application of a lip care product determined by confocal raman spectroscopy, corneometry and transepidermal water-loss.

OBJECTIVE: Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax (Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil-based (Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application. METHODS: The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Instrumental measurements were performed before and 30 min, 2 h and 6 h after a single application of the product. RESULTS: Lip skin barrier function as well as lip hydration were significantly improved and penetration of olive oil was maintained for at least 6 h post product application. The deposition of the three component lipids (berry fruit wax, coconut oil and olive oil) into the stratum corneum after a single application of the lip care product was maintained and data significant for 2-6 h post product application. Lipid deposition was regarded as a positive long-lasting skin care (depot-) effect combined with a profound hydrating effect for about 6 h. CONCLUSION: The tri-method approach taken in this study is deemed relevant and valid for measuring lip hydration offering a complimentary assessment of the barrier function of lip skin and interactive effects of cosmetic ingredients.

OBJECTIFS: Les formulations des produits de soins des lèvres contiennent souvent des huiles et des cires. En outre, la prévention, voire la réparation de la sécheresse et de la rugosité des lèvres font partie des résultats attendus de l'utilisation de ces produits. Cette étude avait pour objectif d'associer une spectroscopie confocale Raman à des mesures de la capacitance de la peau (cornéométrie) et de la perte d'eau transépidermique (système à chambre fermée Aquaflux), dans l'évaluation du niveau d'hydratation et de pénétration cutanées des lèvres d'une cire à base de fruits (cire d'écorce de Vernis du Japon) et d'un produit de soins des lèvres à base d'huiles naturelles (huile de coco et huile d'olive), après une seule application. MÉTHODES: Au total, l'étude a été menée auprès de 15 volontaires en bonne santé de sexe féminin. Des mesures instrumentales ont été réalisées avant, puis 30 minutes, 2 heures et 6 heures après une seule application du produit. RÉSULTATS: Une amélioration significative de la fonction barrière et de l'hydratation de la peau des lèvres a été observée, et la pénétration cutanée de l'huile d'olive est demeurée stable pendant au moins 6 heures après l'application du produit. Le dépôt des trois lipides entrant dans sa composition (la cire de baies, l'huile de coco et l'huile d'olive) dans la couche cornée s'est prolongé pendant 2 à 6 heures après une seule application du produit de soins des lèvres, présentant ainsi un intérêt significatif pour le recueil de données. Les résultats concernant le dépôt lipidique ont décrit un effet positif et durable dans le soin de la peau associé à une hydratation intense pendant environ 6 heures. CONCLUSION: L'approche à trois méthodes adoptée dans le cadre de cette étude pour mesurer l'hydratation des lèvres est jugée pertinente et valable, car elle offre une évaluation complémentaire de la fonction barrière de la peau des lèvres et des effets interactifs des ingrédients entrant dans la composition des cosmétiques.

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application.

OBJECTIVE: In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. METHODS: To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and ß-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. RESULTS: We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes ß-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. CONCLUSION: From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and ß-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

OBJECTIF: Dans l'évaluation des produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux, une méthode communément utilisée consiste à évaluer l'aspect des cheveux afin de déterminer l'effet d'un principe actif sur l'état final des cheveux via l'appréciation visuelle. Bien que d'autres techniques ont été proposées pour une analyse directe de la fibre capillaire, elles ne donnent que des informations de surface ou de structure, sans aucune information moléculaire précise. Une approche différente par la spectroscopie confocale Raman a été proposée pour le suivi in situ du changement moléculaire de la kératine directement dans les fibres de cheveux humains. Il présente une grande spécificité moléculaire, détecter les interactions chimiques entre les molécules et peut fournir des informations moléculaires à différents niveaux de profondeur du cortex et de la cuticule. MÉTHODES: Afin d'évaluer le potentiel de la spectroscopie Raman confocale pour tester l'efficacité des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine, nous avons entrepris une étude pilote sur l'efficacité d'un shampooing lissant sur cheveux naturels, en analysant les marqueurs spectraux de l'hélice α et du feuillet ß dans la bande Amide I et les marqueurs spectraux spécifiques au contenu en sulfure-cystine. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons confirmé qu'un actif s'avérant efficace sur un gold standard diminue la conformation de la kératine en hélice α et favorise la conformation de la kératine en feuillet ß dans les fibres des cheveux. Nous avons également montré que le traitement avec l'actif efficace diminue l'intensité des bandes de cystéine réticulant sous forme de ponts disulfures covalents (S - S à 510 cm-1). Ces données confirment que l'actif efficace agit également sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. CONCLUSION: À partir de ces expériences, nous avons conclu que l'actif efficace a un effet lissant sur les fibres du cheveu humain en agissant sur la conformation hélice α et feuillet ß de la kératine et sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. Sur la base de ces résultats, la spectroscopie confocale Raman peut être considérée comme une technique puissante pour étudier l'influence des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine dans les fibres de cheveux. De plus, cette technique analytique a l'avantage d'être non destructive et ne nécessite pas de marquage; de plus, elle ne nécessite pas d'extraction ou de purification des échantillons et peut être appliquée en routine dans les laboratoires de cosmétiques.

In vivo study of dermal collagen of striae distensae by confocal Raman spectroscopy.

This research work mainly deals with studying qualitatively the changes in the dermal collagen of two forms of striae distensae (SD) namely striae rubrae (SR) and striae albae (SA) when compared to normal skin (NS) using confocal Raman spectroscopy. The methodology includes an in vivo human skin study for the comparison of confocal Raman spectra of dermis region of SR, SA, and NS by supervised multivariate analysis using partial least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) to determine qualitatively the changes in dermal collagen. These groups are further analyzed for the extent of hydration of dermal collagen by studying the changes in the water content bound to it. PLS-DA score plot showed good separation of the confocal Raman spectra of dermis region into SR, SA, and NS data groups. Further analysis using loading plot and S-plot indicated the participation of various components of dermal collagen in the separation of these groups. Bound water content analysis showed that the extent of hydration of collagen is more in SD when compared to NS. Based on the results obtained, this study confirms the active involvement of dermal collagen in the formation of SD. It also emphasizes the need to study quantitatively the role of these various biochemical changes in the dermal collagen responsible for the variance between SR, SA, and NS.