Elastin structure and its involvement in skin photoageing.

Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non-functional deposition of elastic fibers. The occurrence of UV radiation-induced alternative splicing of the elastin gene, which leads to inadequate synthesis of the proteins required for the correct assembly of elastic fibers, is a potential explanation for this phenomenon. Innovative studies have been fundamental for the elucidation of rarely explored photoaging mechanisms and have enabled the identification of effective therapeutic alternatives such as cosmetic products. This review addresses cutaneous photoaging and the changes that affect elastin in this process.

Comparison between fibroblasts and mesenchymal stem cells derived from dermal and adipose tissue.

OBJECTIVE: Stem cells have the ability to renew themselves and differentiate into various cell types. For this reason, numerous research groups have been studying these cells for their therapeutic potential. Some of the therapies, however, are not producing the expected results because of contamination by other cell types, especially by fibroblasts. In the cosmetic industry, stem cells are used to test the efficacy of anti-ageing and rejuvenation products. The purpose of this work was to gain a better understanding of the differences in phenotype, in gene expression associated with stem cells, in the pattern of cell surface proteins and in the differentiation capacity of adipose-derived stem cells, of skin-derived stem cells and of commercially available fibroblasts. METHODS: In this study, we compared fibroblasts with mesenchymal stem cells derived from bone marrow, skin (dermis) and adipose tissue, to assess the differentiation potential of fibroblasts. Dermal and adipose stem cells were isolated from aesthetic surgery patients, and fibroblasts were obtained from a commercial source. The following parameters were used in this study: immunophenotypic profile (positive: CD29, CD73, CD90 and CD105; negative: CD14, CD45 and HLA-DR); differentiation into osteoblastic, chondrogenic and adipogenic cell types; and PCR array to analyse the gene expression of cells isolated from different culture passages. RESULTS: Fibroblasts express the same cell immunophenotypic markers, as well as the genes that are known to be expressed in stem cells, and were shown to be expressed also in adipose and dermis stem cells. Fibroblasts are also able to differentiate into the three cell lineages mentioned above, that is, adipocytes, osteocytes and chondrocytes. CONCLUSION: Human dermal fibroblasts have a potential to adhere to plastic surfaces and differentiate into other cell types. However, for stem cells intended to be used in cosmetics, experiments conducted with contaminated fibroblasts may produce poor or even falsely negative results for the efficacy of the active ingredient or formulation and thus conceal their promising effects as anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation products.

Apoptosis induction by 4-nerolidylcatechol in melanoma cell lines.

Pothomorphe umbellata, a native Brazilian plant, is popularly known to be effective in the treatment of skin lesions. This benefit is attributed to 4-nerolidylcatechol (4-NC), a compound extracted from P. umbellata. Since melanomas show prominent resistance to apoptosis and exhibit extreme chemoresistance to multiple forms of therapy, novel compounds addressing induction of cell death are worth investigating. Here, we evaluated effects on cell cycle progression and possible cytotoxic activity of 4-NC in melanoma cell lines as well as human dermal fibroblasts. Inhibitory effects on cell invasion and MMP activity were also investigated. 4-NC showed cytotoxic activity for all melanoma cell lines tested (IC50=20-40 microM, 24h for tumoral cell lines; IC50=50 microM for fibroblast cell line) associated with its capacity to induce apoptosis. Furthermore, this is the first time that 4-NC is described as an inhibitor of cell invasiveness, due mainly to a G1 cell cycle arrest and inhibition of MMP-2 activity in melanoma cell lines.

Parameters for assessing the aquatic environmental impact of cosmetic products.

The cosmetic industry's growing concern about the impact of its supply chain on the environment, sustainability of raw materials, and biodiversity increases the need to ensure that the final product has a lower environmental impact. The objective of this review is to summarize and compare the information available from international organizations and legislation regarding the main criteria used to assess raw materials for aquatic toxicity, as well as the most suitable alternative methods for obtaining assessment parameters. Using the literature available in databases, a review of the scientific literature and international legislation, this work discusses and compares the parameters established by international organizations such as the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and Cradle to Cradle (C2C), as well as European legislation, namely, European Regulation 1272/2008, for assessing environmental impact. Defining the ecotoxicity parameters of the main classes of raw materials in rinse-off cosmetic products can enable the development of products that are more environmentally sustainable, prioritizing substances with less environmental impact.