A New Blend of Litsea cubeba, Pinus mugo, and Cymbopogon winterianus Essential Oil Active as an Anti-tyrosinase Ingredient in Topical Formulations.

Tyrosinase is a target enzyme to be inhibited in order to reduce excessive melanin production and prevent typical age-related skin disorders. Essential oils are complex mixtures of volatile compounds, belonging mainly to monoterpenoids and sesquiterpenoids, which have been relatively little studied as tyrosinase inhibitors. Among the monoterpenoids, citral (a mixture of neral and geranial) is a fragrance compound in several essential oils that has shown interesting tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Although citral is listed as an allergen among the 26 fragrances in Annex III of the Cosmetics Directive 2003/15/EC, it can be safely used for the formulation of topical products in amounts that are not expected to cause skin sensitization, as shown by various commercially available products.The aim of this work was to evaluate two different formulations (oil/water emulsion, oily solution) containing a new combination of essential oils (Litsea cubeba, Pinus mugo, Cymbopogon winterianus) applied to the skin both in nonocclusive and partially occlusive modes. The blend is designed to reduce the concentration of citral to avoid potential skin reactions while taking advantage of the inhibitory activity of citral. Specifically, the amount of citral and other bioactive compounds (myrcene, citronellal) delivered through the skin was studied as a function of formulation and mode of application.The results show that an oil/water emulsion is preferable because it releases the bioactive compounds rapidly and minimizes their evaporative loss. In addition, semi-occluded conditions are required to prevent evaporation, resulting in higher availability of the bioactive compounds in viable skin.

Adulteration of Essential Oils: A Multitask Issue for Quality Control. Three Case Studies: Lavandula angustifolia Mill., Citrus limon (L.) Osbeck and Melaleuca alternifolia (Maiden & Betche) Cheel.

The quality control of essential oils (EO) principally aims at revealing the presence of adulterations and at quantifying compounds that are limited by law by evaluating EO chemical compositions, usually in terms of the normalised relative abundance of selected markers, for comparison to reference values reported in pharmacopoeias and/or international norms. Common adulterations of EO consist of the addition of cheaper EO or synthetic materials. This adulteration can be detected by calculating the percent normalised areas of selected markers or the enantiomeric composition of chiral components. The dilution of the EO with vegetable oils is another type of adulteration. This adulteration is quite devious, as it modifies neither the qualitative composition of the resulting EO nor the marker's normalised percentage abundance, which is no longer diagnostic, and an absolute quantitative analysis is required. This study aims at verifying the application of the two above approaches (i.e., normalised relative abundance and absolute quantitation) to detect EO adulterations, with examples involving selected commercial EO (lavender, bergamot and tea tree) adulterated with synthetic components, EO of different origin and lower economical values and heavy vegetable oils. The results show that absolute quantitation is necessary to highlight adulteration with heavy vegetable oils, providing that a reference quantitative profile is available.

Exploiting the versatility of vacuum-assisted headspace solid-phase microextraction in combination with the selectivity of ionic liquid-based GC stationary phases to discriminate Boswellia spp. resins through their volatile and semivolatile fractions.

The frankincense resins, secreted from Boswellia species, are an uncommon example of a natural raw material where every class of terpenoids is present in similar proportions. Diterpenoids (serratol, incensole, and incensole acetate) are used to discriminate samples from different species and origins. Headspace solid-phase microextraction has been used for frankincense analysis, although it requires long sampling time for medium- to low-volatility markers; headspace solid-phase microextraction under vacuum can overcome this limit. Gas chromatography is used for analysis but the separation of incensole and serratol needs polar stationary phases. In this study, we develop a method to discriminate frankincenses based on vacuum-assisted headspace solid-phase microextraction combined with fast gas chromatography-mass spectrometry with ionic liquid-based stationary phases. The optimized conditions for solid samples were: air evacuation below 0°C, 15 min of incubation time, and 15 min of extraction time. Losses of volatiles due to vial air-evacuation in the presence of the sample were minimized by sample amount above 100 mg and low sample temperature. Fast gas chromatography provides the baseline separation of all markers in 20 min. By applying vacuum sampling and fast gas chromatography, the total analysis was reduced to 50 min compared to 120 min (60 min sampling plus 60 min analysis) as previously reported. The method was successfully applied to commercial frankincense samples.

Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil: Evaluation of Skin Permeation and Distribution from Topical Formulations with a Solvent-Free Analytical Method.

Melaleuca alternifolia essential oil (tea tree oil) is widely used as an ingredient in skin care products because of its recognized biological activities. The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products constantly promotes research and collection of data on both skin distribution and systemic exposure to tea tree oil components after the application of topical formulations. This study quantitatively evaluates permeation, skin layer distribution (stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis), and release into the surrounding environment of bioactive tea tree oil markers (i.e., α-pinene, ß-pinene, α-terpinene, 1,8-cineole, γ-terpinene, 4-terpineol, α-terpineol) when a 5% tea tree oil formulation is applied at a finite dosing regimen. Permeation kinetics were studied in vitro on pig ear skin using conventional static glass Franz diffusion cells and cells ad hoc modified to monitor the release of markers into the atmosphere. Formulation, receiving phases, and skin layers were analyzed using a fully automatic and solvent-free method based on headspace solid-phase microextraction/gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. This approach affords, for the first time, to quantify tea tree oil markers in the different skin layers while avoiding using solvents and overcoming the existing methods based on solvent extraction. The skin layers contained less than 1% of each tea tree oil marker in total. Only oxygenated terpenes significantly permeated across the skin, while hydrocarbons were only absorbed at trace level. Substantial amounts of markers were released into the atmosphere.

Characterization and Biological Activity of Fiber-Type Cannabis sativa L. Aerial Parts at Different Growth Stages.

Currently, there is a renewed interest in cannabis-related products in different fields because of the rich phytocomplex of this plant, together with its fiber and agricultural features. In this context, the current study aims to chemically characterize different samples of fiber-type Cannabis sativa L. grown in Italy as a potential health promoting source. An ultrasound-assisted solid-liquid extraction (UA-SLE) method was first developed and optimized to obtain a fingerprinting of the investigated phytocomplex. Analyses were carried out through an ultra high performance liquid chromatography equipped with a photodiode array detector in series with triple quadrupole system with an electrospray ionization (ESI) interface (UHPLC-UV-ESI-MS/MS) and showed that the phytocomplex mainly includes flavonoids and non-psychotomimetic cannabinoids. The method was then applied to characterize and compare 24 samples of fiber-type Cannabis sativa L. aerial parts (mainly stems and leaves), which differed for the growth stages (from mid-vegetative to early flowering), growth land plots, and methods of drying (forced-draft oven or freeze-drying). The quali-quantitative analysis showed that a freeze-drying method seems to better preserve the chemical composition of the samples, while the location of the land plot and the growth stage of the plant (which did not comprise inflorescences) had minor influences on the chemical pattern. These results were also supported by spectrophotometric in-vitro assays (scavenging of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH•) and 2,2'-azinobis-3-ethyl-benzthiazoline-6-sulphonate (ABTS+•) radicals and inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes) to investigate the potential biological activity of these samples and the contribution of non-psychotomimetic cannabinoids.

A New Sesquiterpene Essential Oil from the Native Andean Species Jungia rugosa Less (Asteraceae): Chemical Analysis, Enantiomeric Evaluation, and Cholinergic Activity.

As part of a project devoted to the phytochemical study of Ecuadorian biodiversity, new essential oils are systematically distilled and analysed. In the present work, Jungia rugosa Less (Asteraceae) has been selected and some wild specimens collected to investigate the volatile fraction. The essential oil, obtained from fresh leaves, was analysed for the first time in the present study. The chemical composition was determined by gas chromatography, coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) for qualitative analysis, and to flame ionization detector (GC-FID) for quantitation. The calculation of relative response factors (RRF), based on combustion enthalpy, was carried out for each quantified component. Fifty-six compounds were identified and quantified in a 5% phenyl-polydimethylsiloxane non-polar column and 53 compounds in a polyethylene glycol polar column, including four undetermined compounds. The main feature of this essential oil was the exclusive sesquiterpenes content, both hydrocarbons (74.7% and 80.4%) and oxygenated (8.3% and 9.6%). Major constituents were: γ-curcumene (47.1% and 49.7%) and ß-sesquiphellandrene (17.0% and 17.9%), together with two abundant undetermined oxygenated sesquiterpenes, whose abundance was 6.7-7.2% and 4.7-3.3%, respectively. In addition, the essential oil was submitted to enantioselective evaluation in two ß-cyclodextrin-based enantioselective columns, determining the enantiomeric purity of a minor component (1S,2R,6R,7R,8R)-(+)-α-copaene. Finally, the AChE inhibition activity of the EO was evaluated in vitro. In conclusion, this volatile fraction is suitable for further investigation, according to two main lines: (a) the purification and structure elucidation of the major undetermined compounds, (b) a bio-guided fractionation, intended to investigate the presence of new sesquiterpene AChE inhibitors among the minor components.

Citral-Containing Essential Oils as Potential Tyrosinase Inhibitors: A Bio-Guided Fractionation Approach.

Excessive melanin production causes serious dermatological conditions as well as minor aesthetic problems (i.e., freckles and solar lentigo). The downregulation of tyrosinase is a widespread approach for the treatment of such disorders, and plant extracts have often proven to be valuable sources of tyrosinase inhibitors. Citral (a mixture of neral and geranial) is an important fragrance ingredient that has shown anti-tyrosinase potential. It is highly concentrated in the essential oils (EOs) of Cymbopogon schoenanthus (L.) Spreng., Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers., Melissa officinalis L., and Verbena officinalis L. However, only L. cubeba EO has been investigated for use as a potential skin-whitening agent. This work evaluates the in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity of these EOs and studies, using bio-assay oriented fractionation, whether their differing chemical compositions influence the overall EO inhibitory activities via possible synergistic, additive, and/or competitive interactions between EOs components. The inhibitory activity of C. schoenanthus EO and that of M. officinalis EOs, with negligible (+)-citronellal amounts, were in-line with their citral content. On the other hand, L. cubeba and V. officinalis EOs inhibited tyrosinase to considerably greater extents as they contained ß-myrcene, which contributed to the overall EO activities. Similar observations were made for M. officinalis EO, which bears high (+)-citronellal content which increased citral activity.

Bio-Guided Fractionation Driven by In Vitro α-Amylase Inhibition Assays of Essential Oils Bearing Specialized Metabolites with Potential Hypoglycemic Activity.

Type 2 diabetes mellitus (T2DM) is a metabolic disorder characterized by unpaired blood glycaemia maintenance. T2DM can be treated by inhibiting carbohydrate hydrolyzing enzymes (α-amylases and α-glucosidases) to decrease postprandial hyperglycemia. Acarbose and voglibose are inhibitors used in clinical practice. However, these drugs are associated with unpleasant gastrointestinal side effects. This study explores new α-amylase inhibitors deriving from plant volatile specialized metabolites. Sixty-two essential oils (EOs) from different plant species and botanical families were subjected to α-amylase in vitro enzymatic assay and chemically characterized using gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Several EOs were found to be potential α-amylase inhibitors, and Eucalyptus radiata, Laurus nobilis, and Myristicafragrans EOs displayed inhibitory capacities comparable to that of the positive control (i.e., acarbose). A bio-guided fractionation approach was adopted to isolate and identify the active fractions/compounds of Eucalyptus radiata and Myristica fragrans EOs. The bio-guided fractionation revealed that EOs α-amylase inhibitory activity is often the result of antagonist, additive, or synergistic interactions among their bioactive constituents and led to the identification of 1,8-cineole, 4-terpineol, α-terpineol, α-pinene, and ß-pinene as bioactive compounds, also confirmed when they were tested singularly. These results demonstrate that EO oils are a promising source of potential α-amylase inhibitors.

Systematic evaluation of matrix effects in supercritical fluid chromatography versus liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry for biological samples.

Matrix effects (ME) is acknowledged as being one of the major drawbacks of quantitative bioanalytical methods, involving the use of liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). In the present study, the incidence of ME in SFC-MS/MS and LC-MS/MS in the positive mode electrospray ionization (ESI+) was systematically compared for the analysis of urine and plasma samples using two representative sets of 40 doping agents and 38 pharmaceutical compounds, respectively. Three different SFC stationary phase chemistries were employed, to highlight the importance of the column in terms of selectivity. Biological samples were prepared using two different sample treatments, including a non-selective sample clean-up procedure (dilute and shoot (DS) and protein precipitation (PP) for urine and plasma samples, respectively) and a selective sample preparation, namely solid phase extraction (SPE) for both matrices. The lower susceptibility to ME in SFC vs. reversed phase LC (RPLC) was verified in all the experiments performed on urine, and especially when a simple DS procedure was applied. Also, with the latter, the performance strongly varied according to the selected SFC stationary phase, whereas the results were quite similar with the three SFC columns, in the case of SPE clean-up. The same trend was observed with plasma samples. Indeed, with the PP procedure, the occurrence of ME was different on the three SFC columns, and only the 2-picolylamine stationary phase chemistry displayed lower incidence of ME compared to LC-MS/MS. On the contrary, when a SPE clean-up was carried out, the results were similar to the urine samples, with higher performance of SFC vs. LC and limited discrepancies between the three SFC columns. The type of ME observed in LC-MS/MS was generally a signal enhancement and an ion suppression for urine and plasma samples, respectively. In the case of SFC-MS/MS, the type of ME randomly varied according to the analyzed matrix, selected column and sample treatment.