Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part II, protective action of solar filters.

The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface. However, the protective function of the SSLs may be limited and is dependent to the heterogenous distribution of SSLs over the body surface. To ensure comprehensive protection, synergistic measures such as the application of solar filters are necessary. In this second part of the study, we have evaluated the limits of the protection capacity of SSLs and explored the protective action of a solar filters on both SSLs composition and the water hydration and dehydration kinetics in the SC.

Blue light impairs the repair of UVB-induced pyrimidine dimers in a human skin model.

In recent years, interest is growing in the biological cutaneous effects of high-energy visible light (400-450 nm). In the present study, we explored the impact of blue light (BL) on the repair of pyrimidine dimers, the major class of premutagenic DNA damage induced by exposure to sunlight. We unambiguously demonstrate that the exposure of in vitro reconstructed human epidermis to environmentally relevant doses of BL strongly decreases the rate of repair of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and pyrimidine (6-4) pyrimidone photoproducts induced by a subsequent UVB irradiation. Using the highly sensitive and specific liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry assay, we did not observe induction of pyrimidine dimers by BL alone. Finally, we showed that application, during the BL exposure step, of a formula containing a new filter, named TriAsorB and affording BL photoprotection, prevented the decrease in DNA repair efficiency. These results emphasize the potential deleterious effects of BL on DNA repair and the interest in providing adequate skin protection against this wavelength range of sunlight.

Multi-omics analysis to evaluate the effects of solar exposure and a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen on markers of skin barrier function in a skin ecosystem model.

Sun exposure induces major skin alterations, but its effects on skin metabolites and lipids remain largely unknown. Using an original reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model colonized with human microbiota and supplemented with human sebum, we previously showed that a single dose of simulated solar radiation (SSR) significantly impacted the skin metabolome and microbiota. In this article, we further analyzed SSR-induced changes on skin metabolites and lipids in the same RHE model. Among the significantly altered metabolites (log2-fold changes with p ≤ 0.05), we found several natural moisturizing factors (NMFs): amino acids, lactate, glycerol, urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and derivatives. Analyses of the stratum corneum lipids also showed that SSR induced lower levels of free fatty acids and higher levels of ceramides, cholesterols and its derivatives. An imbalance in NMFs and ceramides combined to an increase of proinflammatory lipids may participate in skin permeability barrier impairment, dehydration and inflammatory reaction to the sun. Our skin model also allowed the evaluation of an innovative ultraviolet/blue light (UV/BL) broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high sun protection factor (SPF50+). We found that using this sunscreen prior to SSR exposure could in part prevent SSR-induced alterations in NMFs and lipids in the skin ecosystem RHE model.

Senomorphic activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: correlation with clinical improvement of skin aging.

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specific secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging. Here we evaluated the effect of a formula containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which are known to limit senescence and skin aging. We conducted three different studies. (1) Ex vivo explants treated with the formula had more collagen and glycosaminoglycan. (2) In a clinical trial with forty-four women, two months of treatment improved fine lines, wrinkles, luminosity, smoothness, homogeneity, and plumpness. (3) In a third study on thirty women, we treated one arm for two months and took skin biopsies to study gene expression. 101 mRNAs and 13 miRNAs were differentially expressed. We observed a likely senomorphic effect, as there was a decrease in many SASP genes including MMP12 and CXCL9 and a significant downregulation of autocrine signaling genes: S100A8 and S100A9. These pharmaco-clinical results are the first to demonstrate the senomorphic properties of an effective anti-aging formula in skin.

Characterization of triglycerides photooxidation under solar radiations: A stepwise Raman study.

Triglycerides (TGs) are one of the main components of the glycerolipid family. Their main task in cells is to store excess fatty acids. TG energy storage is mainly concentrated in adipocytes. TGs and free fatty acids constitute the majority (57.5%) of the skin surface lipids (SSLs). TGs are essential for the formation of the skin water barrier. This work is the second part of a global study that aims to evaluate the effect of solar radiations on SSLs using vibrational spectroscopy. In the first part of this work, a stepwise characterization of free fatty acids was performed, and different spectral descriptors were used to follow the different structural modifications during the photo-oxidation process, that is hydrogen abstraction, formation of hydroperoxides and peroxyl radicals as primary oxidation products and the formation of aldehydes, ketones, alcohol as secondary products. In this second part, the photo-oxidation of TGs was evaluated using Raman spectroscopy. A decrease in the CH2/CH3 stretching bands ratio that confirmed the hydrogen abstraction, an increase in the 1165/1740 cm-1 ((δ(OH) and υ(C-O))/ν(C=O) (ester)) ratio indicated the formation of secondary oxidation products such as hydroperoxides. And finally, an increase in the 1725/1740 cm-1 (υ(C=O) (ald.)/υ(C=O) (ester)) ratio and the trans ν(C=C)/cis ν(C=C) ratio highlighted the formation of aldehydes, alcohols, ketone, trans secondary products and others.