How to help the skin cope with glycoxidation.

BACKGROUND: Protein glycation refers to the spontaneous reaction of reducing sugars with proteins and the subsequent formation of stable advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Glycation is linked with oxidative stress, and this association is called "glycoxidation". Glycoxidation alters the protein structure and function and causes tissue aging, as seen in human skin. Therefore, research on substances inhibiting glycoxidation appears to be crucial in the prevention of skin aging. With this aim, several plant extracts have been screened for antiglycation activity, and the results of the best candidates are presented in this article. METHODS: Glycation was studied on human skin proteins (collagen, elastin, and albumin) and on a model of reconstructed skin. Oxidative stress has been addressed by testing the copper-induced low-density lipoprotein oxidation, ultraviolet irradiation of glycated dermis, and carbonyl activation of human dermal fibroblasts. A clinical test evaluated the extent of oxidative stress induced by ultraviolet A irradiation. RESULTS: Among the tested products, several plant extracts have decreased the glycation effects on skin proteins collagen, elastin, and albumin. In addition, a plant extract has significantly inhibited the different forms of oxidative stress associated with protein glycation. CONCLUSIONS: We have demonstrated that plant extracts can relieve the deleterious effects of glycation on human skin. Moreover, a plant extract rich in antioxidant molecules has also significantly preserved the human skin from glycoxidation attacks.

Stress-sensing in the human greying hair follicle: Ataxia Telangiectasia Mutated (ATM) depletion in hair bulb melanocytes in canities-prone scalp.

Canities (or hair greying) is an age-linked loss of the natural pigment called melanin from hair. While the specific cause(s) underlying the loss of melanogenically-active melanocytes from the anagen hair bulbs of affected human scalp remains unclear, oxidative stress sensing appears to be a key factor involved. In this study, we examined the follicular melanin unit in variably pigmented follicles from the aging human scalp of healthy individuals (22-70 years). Over 20 markers were selected within the following categories: melanocyte-specific, apoptosis, cell cycle, DNA repair/damage, senescence and oxidative stress. As expected, a reduction in melanocyte-specific markers in proportion to the extent of canities was observed. A major finding of our study was the intense and highly specific nuclear expression of Ataxia Telangiectasia Mutated (ATM) protein within melanocytes in anagen hair follicle bulbs. ATM is a serine/threonine protein kinase that is recruited and activated by DNA double-strand breaks and functions as an important sensor of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in human cells. The incidence and expression level of ATM correlated with pigmentary status in canities-affected hair follicles. Moreover, increased staining of the redox-associated markers 8-OHdG, GADD45 and GP-1 were also detected within isolated bulbar melanocytes, although this change was not clearly associated with donor age or canities extent. Surprisingly, we were unable to detect any specific change in the expression of other markers of oxidative stress, senescence or DNA damage/repair in the canities-affected melanocytes compared to surrounding bulbar keratinocytes. By contrast, several markers showed distinct expression of markers for oxidative stress and apoptosis/differentiation in the inner root sheath (IRS) as well as other parts of the hair follicle. Using our in vitro model of primary human scalp hair follicle melanocytes, we showed that ATM expression increased after incubation with the pro-oxidant hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). In addition, this ATM increase was prevented by pre-incubation of cells with antioxidants. The relationship between ATM and redox stress sensing was further evidenced as we observed that the inhibition of ATM expression by chemical inhibition promoted the loss of melanocyte viability induced by oxidative stress. Taken together these new findings illustrate the key role of ATM in the protection of human hair follicle melanocytes from oxidative stress/damage within the human scalp hair bulb. In conclusion, these results highlight the remarkable complexity and role of redox sensing in the status of human hair follicle growth, differentiation and pigmentation.