Purified Cannabidiol isolate does not inhibit active caspase-1 release in NLRP inflammasome-mediated UVB or ATP-activated keratinocytes or appear to reduce key inflammatory cytokines in UVB-irradiate keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Cannabidiol is a plant-derived cannabinoid that has been suggested to have several human health benefits including potential anti-inflammatory effects. It is now common to find various forms of Cannabidiol, most often referred to as CBD, in nutritional supplements and topical treatments. The mechanisms by which CBD can influence inflammatory pathways in the body, and more particularly in the skin, are presently still unclear. It is known that CBD will bind to cannabinoid receptors, CB1 and CB2, in the body and recent work has shown that in keratinocytes, CBD can regulate inflammation through transcriptional regulation involving the NFÆ™ß nuclear pathways. The fact that CBD operates through the NFÆ™ß pathways suggests that, perhaps, the molecule may influence the expression of active caspase-1 through NLRP inflammasome-mediated pathways. METHODS: Recently, work has published demonstrating that Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEKs) can be activated by UVB and ATP to express active caspase-1 via NLRP inflammasome-mediated pathways. There was a strong interest to see whether highly purified Cannabidiol Isolate (>99% purity) might function to control release of active caspase-1 by testing of NHEKs using the previously described models. In addition, NHEKs expression of non-NLRP inflammasome-induced inflammation markers including IL-6, IL-8 and PGE2 was examined in UVB-activated NHEKs. RESULTS: It was found that purified Cannabidiol Isolate did not influence active caspase-1 release in either UVB or ATP-activated NHEKs suggesting the molecule does not influence the NLRP inflammasome pathways. In addition, it was surprisingly found that the Cannabidiol Isolate did not impact the expression of additional UVB-activated non-NLRP inflammatory markers. CONCLUSIONS: Data presented suggest that if Cannabidiol functions as an anti-inflammatory, it does so through pathways not associated with either the NLRP inflammasome-mediated expression of caspase-1 or through the more commonly known expression of interleukin or prostaglandin inflammatory pathways.

CONTEXTE: Le cannabidiol est un cannabinoïde d'origine végétale considéré comme bénéfique pour la santé humaine et présentant notamment des effets anti-inflammatoires potentiels. Il est désormais courant de trouver diverses formes de cannabidiol dans les suppléments alimentaires et les traitements topiques. Les mécanismes par lesquels le cannabidiol peut influencer les voies inflammatoires dans l'organisme, et plus particulièrement dans la peau sont actuellement encore flous. On sait que le cannabidiol se lie aux récepteurs cannabinoïdes, CB1 et CB2 dans l'organisme et des travaux récents ont montré que dans les kératinocytes, le cannabidiol peut réguler l'inflammation par régulation transcriptionnelle impliquant les voies nucléaires NF-ƙß. Le fait que le cannabidiol fonctionne par le biais des voies NF-Æ™ß laisse à penser que la molécule peut influencer l'expression de la Caspase-1 active à travers les voies médiées par l'inflammasome NLRP. MÉTHODES: Récemment, des travaux ont été publiés démontrant que les kératinocytes épidermiques humains normaux (Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes, NHEK) peuvent être activés par les UVB et l'ATP pour exprimer la Caspase-1 active à travers les voies médiées par l'inflammasome NLRP. On cherchait surtout à savoir si l'isolat de cannabidiol hautement purifié (pureté > 99 %) pouvait fonctionner pour contrôler la libération de Caspase-1 active en analysant les NHEK à l'aide des modèles décrits précédemment. En outre, l'expression des NHEK des marqueurs de l'inflammation induits par l'inflammasome non-NLRP, notamment : IL-6, IL-8 et la PGE2 ont été examinées dans des NHEK activées par les UVB. RÉSULTATS: Il a été constaté que l'isolat de cannabidiol purifié n'influençait pas la libération active de Caspase-1 dans les NHEK activées par les UVB ou l'ATP, ce qui suggère que la molécule n'influence pas les voies de l'inflammasome NLRP. En outre, il a été surprenant de constater que l'isolat de cannabidiol n'avait pas d'impact sur l'expression des marqueurs inflammatoires non-NLRP activés par les UVB supplémentaires. CONCLUSIONS: Les données présentées suggèrent que si le cannabidiol fonctionne comme un anti-inflammatoire, il le fait par des voies non associées à l'expression de la Caspase-1 médiée par l'inflammasome NLRP ou par l'expression plus connue des voies inflammatoires de l'interleukine ou de la prostaglandine.

A New, Rapid Method for Examining Potential Skin-Brightening Ingredients Using Apple Slices.

Darkening of fruits is the result of the oxidative activation of polyphenol oxidase converting low-molecular weight phenols present in the fruit body into quinone intermediates. Then, through polymerization, these reactive quinones convert to light yellow and red low-molecular weight melanin and, given enough time, to darker, higher molecular weight brown and black melanin. The process that occurs in the flesh of cut fruit is very similar to the process that human skin cells use to make melanin: the oxidative activation of tyrosinase and conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone and eventually to darker melanin. The conversion of the phenols by tyrosinase to quinones is the rate-limiting step in the biochemical manufacture of melanin. This article will discuss a new and cost effective way to screen skin-brightening ingredients by the use of apple slices as a model for skin using a chromameter to measure the change in color that occurs in apple slices over a short time course. Such measurements have been popularly used by food manufacturers to examine ingredients that inhibit fruit browning. Interestingly, as will be noted, many of the ingredients used commercially to inhibit food browning are also popular skin-brightening ingredients. We have found that a DermaLab (Cortex Technologies, Hadsund, Denmark) chromameter measuring the erythema index of apple slice darkening appears to be able to differentiate the benefit of a formulation containing azelaic acid, a known skin-lightening ingredient, to minimize the darkening effects that occur in sliced apples. We will discuss how different apples behave differently when cut and how to best use the chromameter to analyze the changes that occur that can potentially help rapidly screen ingredients for their skin-brightening benefits.

Modulation of cellular senescence in fibroblasts and dermal papillae cells in vitro.

A hexapeptide (Hexapeptide-11) of structure Phe-Val-Ala-Pro-Phe-Pro (FVAPFP) originally isolated from yeast extracts and later synthesized by solid state synthesis to high purity has demonstrated an ability to influence the onset of senescence in intrinsically aged fibroblasts, extrinsically aged fibroblasts, and extrinsically aged dermal papillae cells in vitro. The mechanism of senescence control is believed to be related to the peptide's ability to reversibly downregulate ataxia telangiectasia mutated (ATM) and p53 protein expression. The importance of p53 as the gatekeeping protein for monitoring cellular DNA damage is strategic for maintaining cellular health. ATM activates p53 by direct phosphorylation, causing cells to move into senescence which effectively moves them out of reproductive processes. Technologies that can influence ATM and p53 expression may offer unique benefits for controlling cellular senescence and effectively delaying cellular aging processes. The influence on ATM and p53 expression is noted to occur in both cell lines at peptide concentrations between 0.1% and 1.0%. The implications of these effects for aging benefits for skin and hair is important as, to date, no known small peptide has been suggested to demonstrate this effect in such a reversible and dose-dependent fashion.

Living, quiescent Lactobacillus plantarum Lp90 probiotic, delivered topically to full thickness tissues in vitro via a just-add-water cream delivery system, stimulates the expression of elastin protein.

INTRODUCTION: Delivering living probiotics to the skin can be challenging as most water-containing cosmetic products require preservatives to maintain product stability. A recently introduced powdered technology [Stratabiosys™, Vantage Personal Care] allows for quiescent probiotic powders to be stored for extended periods of time. The powders can then be reconstituted to creams at the point of use by adding water and mixing and were examined in vitro on reconstructed human full thickness tissues to see if the probiotic had any influence of several important biomolecules expressed in the skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A probiotic powder containing 200 M CFU/gram of living quiescent Lactobacillus plantarum Lp90 was reconstituted to a cream by adding ultrapure water and gently mixing the components at room temperature to quickly produce a cream. The resulting cream was tested topically on Epiderm® Full Thickness Tissues by treating the tissues for 24 h, removing the cream with a PBS rinse and then repeating the treatment for another 24 h. The resulting tissues were examined for four strategically important skin biomolecules including Type 1A collagen, elastin, filaggrin and hyaluronic acid. The probiotic-containing powder was tested against untreated tissues and powders not containing probiotics and powders containing measured amounts of one of two cryoprotectants known to be used to maintain the integrity of the quiescent probiotics during drying of the quiescent probiotic powders. RESULTS: It was found that topical treatment on Epiderm® tissues with creams containing 2 M (1%), 4 M (2%) and 6 M (3%) CFU/gram prepared from a base powder containing 200 M CFU/gram of Lactobacillus plantarum Lp90 stimulated elastin expression in a dose dependent fashion. There was no effect on the other biomolecules examined in the studies. In addition, it was found that creams made from powders containing only the known cryoprotectants, not bacteria, had no influence on elastin expression. CONCLUSION: The results of this study demonstrate that topical delivery of probiotics is possible from powders containing quiescent probiotic powders converted to creams just prior to application to the tissues. In the case of a powder containing Lactobacillus plantarum Lp90, topical application significantly increased expression of elastin in the skin replicants after 48 h of exposure to the cream made with the probiotic. The elastin-stimulating effects are not coming from the oligosaccharide cryoprotectants used to maintain the probiotic powders in their quiescent, dried state. The results indicate that it is the living Lactobacillus plantarum probiotic that is stimulating the elastin expression in the skin tissues.

Passive Enhancement of Retinol Skin Penetration by Jojoba Oil Measured Using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (Skin-PAMPA): A Pilot Study.

Introduction: Retinol is known to have positive benefits on the skin including enhancements in barrier function, increased epidermal thickness, reductions in fine lines and wrinkles and reductions in hyperpigmentation. Improved methods to enhance the penetration of retinol are desirable. Methods: A study was conducted to examine if addition of natural jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) oil might help passively enhance the penetration of retinol through the skin's lipid barrier. The model used to examine the passive penetration of the retinol is the skin parallel artificial membrane permeation assay (Skin-PAMPA). In this study, three formulations were examined. The formulations included two control blends: a moisturizing emulsion without retinol and the same product containing 1.0% retinol without jojoba oil. The remaining formulation contained similar concentrations of retinol with 10% jojoba oil. The studies were conducted by applying the products to the Skin-PAMPA models at 37°C/5% CO2 for 16 hours and then extraction of the acceptor reservoir with cyclohexane (ratio 1:5 acceptor fluid to cyclohexane). The resulting acceptor reservoir cyclohexane solutions were analyzed for retinol by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). Results: The formulations without retinol showed no indications of retinol penetration by HPLC. The control formulation with 1.0% retinol demonstrated that retinol had permeated the membrane in the 16-hour timeframe with a measured Area Under the Curve (AUC) of 7 units. Analysis of the formulation containing 1.0% retinol and 10% jojoba oil indicated retinol had permeated with a AUC of 285 units, a nearly 40-fold increase in active retinol permeation. Discussion: The ability for jojoba oil to directly act to help skin permeation of a key skin care active like retinol has not been previously demonstrated. This potential for jojoba oil to enhance passive skin penetration of critical skin actives, like retinol, can help to improve the performance of skin care products employing active topical ingredients.

Examining Skin Recovery After a 3% Aqueous Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) Treatment Using ATP Biofluorescence.

Introduction: Since its complete mapping, the human skin microbiome has become an important area of research related to skin health. The human skin is populated by an environment of microorganisms, fungi, insects, and viruses that is collectively known as the microbiota, and the complete genomic contribution to the skin is called the microbiome. The terms are different but frequently used interchangeably. Measuring the skin's microbial diversity can be done, but it is a sophisticated technique that is performed using expensive instruments that can sequence the 16S ribosomal RNA of the microorganisms. Finding more rapid and less costly methods to analyze the changes in the skin's microbial biome is desirable. Methods: A study was conducted on thirty (30) inner volar forearms to see if ATP biofluorescence could be employed to examine skin microbial dysbiosis caused by the application of 3% hydrogen peroxide. Fifteen individuals were examined on both arms for a total of thirty inner volar forearms using a Charm Science® NovaLum® ATP analyzer to examine in a broad sense the skin's total microbial population and how it is affected after surface treatment with 3% hydrogen peroxide over a 24-hour period. Results: It was found that surface treatment of the skin with three cotton swab applications of 3% hydrogen peroxide five minutes apart was able to statistically significantly suppress the expression of ATP biofluorescence compared against un-swabbed sites and the effects remained significant for six hours following the H2O2 treatment. After 8 hours, and into the 24th hour, the ATP biofluorescence difference returns to non-statistical significance indicating potential return of the stable microbiota. Discussion: Using ATP biofluorescence to detect possible sanitizer-induced microbial dysbiosis may be a rapid way to examine how skin treatments may impact the return of microbially disrupted skin to its normal state and how surface treatments may impact the rate of return to normal after a disruptive event.

Pyrroloquinoline Quinone Disodium (PQQ2Na) Has an NLRP Inflammasome-Induced Caspase-1 Release Influence in UVB-Irradiated but Not ATP-Treated Human Keratinocytes but Has No Influence in Increasing Skin Cell Mitochondrial Biogenesis in Either Human Keratinocytes or Fibroblasts.

INTRODUCTION: Pyrroloquinoline quinone is a bacterial-derived redox factor that has been shown to have numerous benefits in humans. Recently, a model for examining the ability of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) to demonstrate anti-inflammatory benefits via nod-like receptor protein (NLRP)-activated caspase-1 release was reported. The question of whether PQQ2Na might have anti-inflammatory benefits that function through NLRP-activated release of active caspase-1 has not been explored. In addition, it has been reported that PQQ2Na will induce mitochondrial biogenesis in humans when taken orally. Whether or not this effect occurs in skin cells is presently unknown. METHODS: The inflammation studies followed previously published methods that demonstrated both UVB and ATP were able to upregulate the NLRP-activated release of caspase-1 in NHEKs. In addition, NHEK and normal dermal human fibroblasts (NHDF) were treated with PQQ2Na to see if the molecule might stimulate mitochondrial biogenesis measured by increased expression of cyclooxygenase-1 (COX-1) and succinate dehydrogenase complex, subunit A (SDHA). RESULTS: At non-cytotoxic concentrations between 5 µg/mL and 100 µg/mL in NHEKs and between 0.1 µg/mL and 5 µg/mL in fibroblasts, the PQQ2Na had no influence on cellular mitochondrial biogenesis. In ATP-activated NHEKs at concentrations of PQQ2Na between 0.05 µg/mL and 50 µg/mL, there was no influence of PQQ2Na on release of active caspase-1. In NHEKs irradiated with 60mJ/cm2 of UVB radiation as previously described and treated with 0.05 µg/mL to 50 µg/mL of PQQ2Na, the molecule showed a dose-dependent benefit at reducing the expression of active caspase-1 in the irradiated cells. DISCUSSION: Benefits of PQQ2Na on various skin cell types which had not been investigated previously were addressed. Surprisingly, the PPQ2Na had no apparent influence on skin cell mitochondrial biogenesis. However, the molecule has a strong suppressing influence on UVB-induced active caspase-1 release in UVB-irradiated NHEKs.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) stimulates the in vitro expression of CD44 proteins but not HAS1 proteins in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) and is HA molecular weight dependent.

BACKGROUND: In the skin, hyaluronic acid is broken down to smaller fragments by hyaluronidase enzymes, particularly when skin is wounded. The impact of various molecular weight fragments of HA on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) with regard to expression of important cellular proteins has not been deeply explored. AIMS: Examination of three molecular weight (Mw) fractions of hyaluronic acid: 1) average Mw of the high fraction: 1.5-2 MDa, 2) average Mw of the medium fraction: 200-500 kDa, and 3) average Mw of the low fraction: 5-10 kDa and a unique 1:1:1 composite complex of the three HA fragments (Triluronic® Acid) was done to examine the influence of the HA on two critical skin cell protein targets: hyaluronan synthase-1 (HAS-1) and the HA binding protein cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44). METHODS: NHEKs were treated in vitro with a 1.0% stock solution of each HA Mw fraction at 1.0, 0.5, and 0.1% concentrations of the 1.0% solution and the polysaccharide composite at the same concentrations for 48 Hrs. The cells were than analyzed by ELISA protein assays for HAS-1 and CD44 protein content. RESULTS: Examination of HAS-1 protein expression indicates that none of the HA test materials influenced the expression of HAS-1 at any concentration. Examination of the CD44 protein expression indicated that the low Mw fraction and the commercial complex of the three Mw fractions upregulated CD44 protein expression in NHEKs, but the medium Mw and high Mw HA fractions did not. CONCLUSIONS: In this work, it was demonstrated that HA can influence the expression of CD44 protein, a critical HA transmembrane HA binding protein, and the influence appears to be molecular weight dependent.

Examining the genomic influence of skin antioxidants in vitro.

A series of well-known, purified antioxidants including: Resveratrol, Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG), Genistein, Rosavin, Puerarin, Chlorogenic Acid, Propolis and two newer unexplored isoflavonoids isolated from Maclura pomifera (Osage Orange) including Pomiferin and Osajin, were applied to Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDF) and Normal Human Dermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) for 24 hours. The resulting treated cells were then examined using human gene microarrays supplied by Agilent. These chips typically have somewhere on the order of 30,000 individual genes which are expressed in the human genome. For our study, this large list of genes was reduced to 205 principal genes thought to be important for skin and each individual ingredient was examined for its influence on the culled list of genes. Working on a hypothesis that there may be some common genes which are either upregulated or downregulated by all or most of these ingredients, a short list of genes for each cell line was developed. What appears to emerge from these studies is that several genes in the gene pool that was screened are influenced by most or all of the molecules of interest. Genes that appear to be upregulated in both cell lines by all the ingredients include: ACLY, AQP3, COX1, NOS3, and PLOD3. Genes that appear to be downregulated in both cell lines by all ingredients include only PGR.

Influence of an extract from kudzu symbiosomes containing leghemoglobin on in vitro cutaneous procollagen production.

Cytoglobin is a hexacoordinate globin protein that was recently discovered in mammals. Interestingly, of the four human globin proteins that are now known, hemoglobin, myoglobin, neuroglobin and cytoglobin, the latter appears to have the closest resemblance to strikingly similar proteins expressed in plants. In legumes, these proteins accumulate in symbiosomes (root nodules) of various legumes and are called leghemoglobin. The paper will discuss the ability of an aqueous extract from Pueraria lobata (kudzu) symbiosomes that contains leghemoglobin to stimulate procollagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. This effect may be partly due to the possibility that leghemoglobin may mimic the function of cytoglobin by shuttling oxygen to prolyl-4-hydroxylase, the enzyme responsible for oxidizing proline residues in procollagen bundles. This hypothesis is supported by DNA microarray sequencing data that demonstrate that treatment of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) with highly purified cytoglobin or leghemoglobin upregulates a number of key collagen-related genes including COL1A1 and COL1A2.

In vitro expression of NLRP inflammasome-induced active Caspase-1 expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) by various exogenous threats and subsequent inhibition by naturally derived ingredient blends.

BACKGROUND: The discovery of the nod-like receptor protein (NLRP) inflammasomes in 2002 has led to the rapid identification of these unique cellular proteins as key targets for studies on innate inflammation pathways. The NLRP inflammasomes have been shown to be expressed in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). NLRP inflammasomes in keratinocytes are interesting as these skin cells are the first living cells in the skin to contact external exogenous threats such as UV energy, chemicals, physical trauma, and bacteria and viruses. Activation of the NLRP Inflammasomes by exogenous threats results in the release of active Caspase-1 (ACasp-1), a key protease enzyme, which targets inactive forms of IL-1ß, IL-18 as well as IL-1α and IL-33. PURPOSE: This article discusses efforts to examine the release of active Caspase-1 from NHEKs activated by various exogenous threats including UVB energy, ATP, Nigericin and Urban Dust. The work further examines if, after inflammasome activation and Caspase-1 release, certain naturally derived botanical ingredients known to have anti-inflammatory effects can function to inhibit upregulation of active Caspase-1. METHODS: NHEK were treated with various doses of UVB, ATP and Nigericin and with a single dose of Urban Dust. ACasp-1 expression was measured after 3 and 20 hours using the Promega Caspase Glo-1 bioluminescent assay. After confirmation that 60 mJ/cm2 of UVB and 5mM of ATP were effective to activate NHEK ACasp-1 release after 20 hrs, these conditions were employed to examine the influence of three botanical blends of ingredients on their ability to inhibit ACasp-1 expression. RESULTS: Initial results demonstrate that NHEKs can be activated to release active Caspase-1 by ATP and UVB, but not by Nigericin or Urban Dust. In addition, it was unexpectedly found that, while ATP and UVB activated NHEKs, the release of ACasp-1-did not happen within the first 3 hours after exposure but did become significant after 20 hours. Additional results indicate that a blend of polysaccharides and two blends of antioxidants, one oil-soluble and the other water-soluble, known for their anti-inflammatory effects, can reduce expression of active Caspase-1 in activated NHEKs when applied extracellularly. CONCLUSION: Expression of NLRP activated release of ACasp-1 was found to be influenced by UVB and ATP but not by Nigericin or Urban Dust. The effects were also time dependent. Several botanical extract blends were found to reduce ACasp-1 expression in previously activated NHEKs. Links between these inflammatory effects and processes of cellular inflammaging are discussed.

In vitro examination of an oleosome-based sun protection product on the influence of UVB-induced inflammation markers in human epidermal skin equivalent tissue model.

In vitro human epidermal skin equivalent tissues (MatTek EpiDerm™) were employed to examine the influence of UVB radiation on various established inflammation markers in the presence of topically applied sunscreens. MatTek EpiDerm™ tissues were treated with 2.0mg/cm2 of an Experimental oleosome-based SPF 30 product or a commercial SPF 30 beach product. Tissues were irradiated with 300mJ/cm2 of UVB radiation. Inflammatory cytokines IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8 as well as arachidonic acid cascade marker PGE2 were examined via ELISA-based antibody detection. Untreated tissues irradiated with 300mJ/cm2 of UVB radiation showed statistically significant upregulation of IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8 as well as PGE2. Application of both the experimental oleosome-based SPF 30 formulation and the commercial SPF 30 formulation demonstrated an ability to prevent the upregulation of all four markers when applied prior to irradiation. The experimental oleosome-based SPF 30 product contained approximately 80% less sunscreen actives than the commercial formulation. This study demonstrates that in vitro reconstructed human tissues can be used to study the influences of sun screen actives in the presence of UVB radiation. The results support previously reported clinical results that demonstrated that oleosome-based sun care formulations can function with high protection effects with significantly less sun care actives.

Reliable and simple spectrophotometric determination of sun protection factor: A case study using organic UV filter-based sunscreen products.

BACKGROUND: Current in vitro SPF screening method for plant oil body (oleosome)-based SPF products possesses significant inconsistency and low reliability in the SPF rating. OBJECTIVES: The primary objective of this study was to evaluate the reliability and reproducibility of spectrophotometrically determined sun protection factor (SPF) from oleosome-based SPF products. The secondary objective was the data comparison of the spectrophotometric measurements against in vivo SPF testing to establish a reliable in vitro test method as a screening assay. METHODS: Octyl methoxycinnamate (UVB filter) and avobenzone (UVA filter) were loaded into safflower oil bodies and formulated into oil-in-water emulsion-based finished products. To evaluate the reliability between in vivo and spectrophotometric test methods, samples were dispatched to a clinical laboratory, and the reported SPF values were compared with spectrophotometric test results. RESULTS: The observed SPF from the in vivo and spectrophotometric test results demonstrated a high correlation for SPF 30 products. Proportional correlation between the two evaluation methods was observed for SPF 15 and 50 products with slightly lesser accuracy with a smaller number of population tested in the clinical studies. CONCLUSIONS: A reliable spectrophotometric screening method for oil body-based SPF formulas has been developed using two broadly used organic UV sunscreen actives as a case study. The results demonstrated a high level of reproducibility and reliability compared to the US FDA-guided in vivo SPF testing method.

Can a topical scalp treatment reduce hair bulb extraction?

Generally speaking, when people talk about "hair breakage" they are typically referring to the idea that as they comb or brush their hair, the fibers are elongating and snapping at some weak point in the fiber length. It is well established that as people chemically treat their hair, the keratin proteins are degraded further and the hair become more brittle and susceptible to breakage. For the consumer, hair breakage is registered as hair fibers noted in their comb or brush, and in the drain that they see after a cosmetic treatment. However, a fundamental question that needs to be asked is whether or not the hairs that are seen in the drain are really the result of hair breakage (i.e., a fiber snapping) or are they the result of hairs that are actually being extracted from the scalp by their root bulbs. If the bulk of the hair fibers are actually extracted by the bulb, than it seems somewhat superfluous to try and improve hair strength by improving the exterior of the fiber. The fiber is dead and topical treatments can only smooth, and possibly moisten already established fiber structure and integrity. This paper will attempt to address hair strength by looking at the scalp and follicle as the target for treatment, showing that topical application of a product containing a blend of well-known skin active ingredients can demonstrate potential reductions in hair extractions. An in vivo testing protocol in which 15 voluntary participants with at least 12" hair length were professionally shampooed, and then treated, half-head, with a commercial conditioner, or the same conditioner that contained 5% of a mixture of yeast peptides, fruit acids and green tea polyphenols every day for five days will be discussed. At the beginning and end of the treatment period, the number of hairs that either broke along the fiber, or extracted by the bulb were gathered, separated and counted for both the treated and untreated side of the head. The results of this one-week study demonstrate that the number of hairs that actually break pales in comparison to the number of hairs that are extracted complete with intact root bulb from the follicle.

In vitro and ex vivo examination of topical Pomiferin treatments.

Pomiferin is a unique, prenylated isoflavonoid that can be isolated and purified from the fruits of Maclura pomifera (Osage Orange). The molecule typically is isolated with a small amount of a molecule called Osajin which is structurally similar to Pomiferin but lacks an aromatic hydroxyl group. As a consequence, Osajin has been shown to be a less effective antioxidant than Pomiferin. In vitro studies on Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts demonstrate that Pomiferin is a potent extracellular matrix protein stimulant, showing increases in collagen, elastin and fibrillin expression comparable or superior to equivalent concentrations of retinol. Ex vivo hair follicle assays demonstrate comparable effects on expression of collagen and elastin at Pomiferin concentrations in the range of 0.05-5 ppm. Taken together, the results from the two assays conducted on different models indicate that Pomiferin may be a very interesting ingredient for topical skin and scalp treatments where modulation of the expression of extracellular matrix proteins is important.

Examining the impact of skin lighteners in vitro.

Three cosmetically important skin lightening agents, hydroquinone (HQ), kojic acid (KA), and niacinamide (NA), consume the bulk of successful skin lightening ingredients in cosmetic applications. However, the mechanisms by which these ingredients work are still unclear. In this study, melanocytes and keratinocytes were treated with high, nontoxic doses of HQ, KA, and NA and the cells were examined by human microarrays and protein assays for several important targets including cytotoxicity, melanin expression, tyrosinase gene (TYR) and protein expression, melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) gene and protein expression, cytochrome c oxidase-1 (COX1) gene and protein expression, and ferritin (FTH1) gene and protein expression. It was found that all the skin lighteners examined showed marked increases in TYR, COX1, and FTH1 gene and protein expression, but not in MC1R expression in melanocytes. Upregulation of COX1 and FTH1 genes and proteins was common across both cell lines, melanocytes and keratinocytes. The results of the tyrosinase expression were somewhat unexpected. The role of iron in the expression of melanin is somewhat unexplored, but common and strong upregulation of ferritin protein in both types of cells due to the treatments suggests that iron plays a more pivotal role in melanin synthesis than previously anticipated.