Bioconversion of retinol and its cell barrier function in human immortalized keratinocytes cells and artificial epidermis-dermis skin.

The current study aimed to characterize cellular uptake and bioconversion of retinol in fully differentiated human immortalized keratinocytes cells (HaCaT) and artificial skin by measuring the cell integrity of skin barriers, time-dependent transport of retinol, and bioconversion to its metabolites. The expression of epidermal differentiation related genes including Keratin 1 (KRT1), Keratin 10 (KRT10), and Involucrin (IVL) significantly increased in differentiated HaCaT. TEER of HaCaT did not decrease after incubating retinol compared to control (p > 0.05), indicating that retinol tends to maintain strength and integrity of epidermal barrier. TEER of artificial skin decreased treatment of retinol for 2 h, but it was recovered after 4 h. During retinol transport, metabolite was eluted at 13.37 and 13.82 min of basal medium of both keratinocytes and artificial skin, which was identified as retinoic acid by product ion of m/z 283.47. Retinol appeared to be accumulated in keratinocytes, but its uptake tends to be reduced in a time-dependent manner. Retinoic acid converted from retinol in keratinocytes was time dependently transported. In case of artificial skin, retinol was mostly found in apical at initial incubation time, but it was reduced during incubation for 24 h. Retinoic acid was time-dependently found in a basal, which was converted via epidermis-dermis. Results from the current study suggest that topical application of retinol to human skin optimal concentration and time exposure could maintain epidermal barrier function and promote skin function due to its remarkable bioconversion to retinoic acid in the epidermis-dermis.

Spectral and mass characterization of kinetic conversion from retinoids to retinoic acid in an in vitro 3-D human skin equivalent model.

To investigate the effect of retinoids, such as retinol (ROL), retinal (RAL), and retinyl palmitate (RP), on epidermal integrity, skin deposition, and bioconversion to retinoic acid (RA). 3-D human skin equivalent model (EpiDermFT™) was used. Epidermal cellular integrity measured by TEER values was significantly higher for a topical treatment of ROL and RAL than RP (p < 0.05). The skin deposition (µM) of ROL and RAL was approximately 269.54 ± 73.94 and 211.35 ± 20.96, respectively, greater than that of RP (63.70 ± 37.97) over 2 h incubation. Spectral changes were revealed that the CO maximum absorbance occurred between 1600∼1800 cm-1 and was greater from ROL than that from RAL and RP, indicating conjugation of R-OH to R-CHO or R-COOH could strongly occur after ROL treatment. Subsequently, a metabolite from the bioconversion of ROL and RAL was identified as RA, which has a product ion of m/z 283.06, by using liquid a chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) - total ion chromatogram (TIC). The amount of bioconversion from ROL and RAL to RA in artificial skin was 0.68 ± 0.13 and 0.70 ± 0.10 µM at 2 h and 0.60 ± 0.04 and 0.57 ± 0.06 µM at 24 h, respectively. RA was not detected in the skin and the receiver compartment after RP treatment. ROL could be a useful dermatological ingredient to maintain epidermal integrity more effectively, more stably deposit on the skin, and more steadily metabolize to RA than other retinoids such as RAL and RP.

Bioconversion of BIOGF1K, a compound-K-rich fraction from ginseng root and its effect on epidermal barrier function.

BIOGF1K, the ginseng root-based and hydrolyzed ginsenoside-rich fraction, is known to improve skin damage, but there are rare studies on the kinetic of ginsenosides in the epidermis and their effects on epidermal barrier function. The current study investigated the effect of BIOGF1K on epidermal barrier function and its kinetics on epidermal transport. HPLC and LC/MS were used to verify the ginsenosides and the metabolites of BIOGF1K. Human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and epidermis-dermis artificial skin were treated with BIOGF1K and their metabolites were analyzed by HPLC and LC/MS. The epidermal barrier function was evaluated by transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER). In BIOGF1K, ginsenoside Rg1, Rd, F1, F2, compound Mc, compound Y (CY), and compound K (CK) were detected and CK and CY were the most and second abundant ginsenosides. TEER of HaCaT with 100 and 200 µg/mL BIOGF1K treatment was significantly higher than the control during 600 min of incubation. CK was permeated to the epidermis in a time-dependent manner and its maximum transported rate was observed at 600 min. In the case of artificial skin, CY and CK were permeated to the epidermis-dermis skin as time-dependent. Also, 24 h after treatment of CY, CK was detected as 19.59% of CY. It was proposed that CY was hydrolyzed into CK while permeating the epidermis. Results from the current study suggest that bioconversion of BIOGF1K rich in CK effectively enhances epidermal barrier function and it could be a useful cosmeceutical to exhibit its functionality to the skin.

Kinetic conversion of BIOGF1K enriched in compound K from in vitro 3-D human tissue model.

The purposes of current study were to investigate the effect of ginsenosides from BIOGF1K enriched in compound K (CK) and compound Y (CY) on the skin barrier function, the deposition in in vitro 3-D human tissue model (EpiDermFT™ Full Thickness 400), and to identify and quantify kinetic bioconversion of the ginsenosides in artificial skin by utilizing the Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS), respectively. Epidermal barrier integrity evaluated using transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) was significantly higher in the BIOGF1K treatment than the CY or CK individual treatment throughout incubation (p < 0.05). Skin deposition (%) of CY and CK from BIOGF1K treatment was approximately 4 and 2 times higher than the CY and CK single component treatment, respectively. Total amount of CK found in human skin by deposition and bioconversion was approximately 1087.3, 528.82, and 867.76 µM after topical treatment of BIOGF1K, CK, and CY. Results from the current study reveal that topical treatment of BIOGF1K more effectively induced CK deposition as well as bioconversion of CY to CK than that of a single treatment of CY or CK, suggesting that BIOGF1K could be a useful cosmetic preparation for enhancing skin function.

Chemometric Analysis of Extracts and Fractions from Green, Oxidized, and Microbial Fermented Teas and Their Correlation to Potential Antioxidant and Anticancer Effects.

Previous reports on phytochemicals in green tea (GT) and processed teas mainly focused on more representative compounds such as catechins. Here, we focus on the insignificantly studied non-catechin components in tea extracts, and explore the multivariate correlation between diverse phenolic compounds in tea and the in vitro antioxidant and anticancer effects. Extracts from GT and four types of processed teas were further divided into hydrophilic and hydrophobic fractions, whose phenolic compositions and antioxidant capacities were quantified using HPLC-MS and three antioxidant assays, respectively. For three types of teas, the anticancer effects of their extracts and fractions were assessed using cancer cell lines. The hydrophobic fractions had lower antioxidant capacities than the corresponding hydrophilic fractions, but exhibited superior antiproliferative effects on cancer cells compared with the whole extract and the hydrophilic fraction. Partial least squares-discriminant analysis revealed a strong correlation between the anticancer effects and the theaflavins and flavonols. Therefore, in addition to catechins, the hydrophobic fraction of tea extracts may have beneficial health effects.