Para rubber seed oil and its fatty acids alleviate photoaging and maintain cell homeostasis.

OBJECTIVE: Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging. METHODS: Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components. RESULTS: Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 µg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones. CONCLUSION: The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.

OBJECTIF: L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para a été indiquée pour la peau terne et la perte de cheveux en ce qui concerne ses acides gras bénéfiques cutanés. Néanmoins, la propriété anti­photovieillissemen de l'huile reste inexplorée. Nous avons proposé que l'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para puisse atténuer le photovieillissement. MÉTHODES: L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para a été étudiée dans des cocultures de cellules HaCaT humaines et de fibroblastes dermiques (HDF). L'efficacité de la protection contre le photovieillissement a été surveillée en termes d'IL­6 et d'IL­8, ainsi que de MMP­1 (collagénase) et de MMP­9 (gélatinase) en comparaison avec ses composants d'acides gras. RÉSULTATS: L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para standardisée en acides gras a été indiquée comme huile végétale prometteuse pour le traitement du photovieillissement. Pour la première fois, son mécanisme de photoprotection a été démontré dans le système de coculture des cellules kératinocytaires et fibroblastiques. Où l'huile et ses composants d'acides gras (100 microgrammes/ml) ont été indiqués comme étant sûrs et protégeant efficacement les cocultures contre les dommages causés par les UV. L'huile a significativement (p < 0,001) supprimé les sécrétions d'IL­6, IL­8, MMP­1 et MMP­9 induites par les UV. La capacité de photoprotection révélée a été permise par ses acides gras, en particulier les acides gras insaturés C18. CONCLUSION: L'huile a été indiquée pour sa capacité de maintenir l'homéostasie de la peau et d'atténuer le vieillissement de sénescence en ce qui concerne ses capacités de photoprotection démontrées. L'huile de graines de caoutchouc Para est justifiée comme agent protecteur contre le photovieillissement de nouvelle génération avec la sécurité et l'efficacité décrites démontrées dans le système de coculture épidermique. Les résultats encouragent le développement de produits anti­vieillissement innovants contenant l'huile, qui est catégorisable comme un matériau spécialisé durable pour le traitement du photovieillissement.

Anti-skin ageing activities of rice (Oryza sativa) bran soft and hard waxes in cultured skin cells.

OBJECTIVE: Rice (Oryza sativa) bran waxes, the by-products of rice bran oil manufacturing, are widely used as inactive components in several preparations. Nevertheless, the function of rice bran waxes against skin ageing has never been reported. This study aimed to investigate thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes, including rice bran soft (RBS) and hard (RBH) waxes, and the activities against skin ageing in cultured skin cells. METHODS: Thermal property and fatty acid profile of rice bran waxes were analysed by differential scanning calorimetry and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, respectively. The cytotoxicity assay of waxes was performed in B16F10 melanoma cells, human skin fibroblasts and co-culture cells of HaCaT cells and human skin fibroblasts. The non-cytotoxic concentrations of waxes were evaluated for their activities against skin ageing, including melanogenesis assay, antioxidant activity, collagen content analysis, matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory assay and anti-inflammatory activity. RESULTS: Thermal property indicated the endotherm peaks with melting temperatures at 40.89 ± 0.27°C and 69.64 ± 0.34°C for RBS and RBH, respectively. The main fatty acids in RBS were oleic (31.68 ± 0.75%) and linoleic acids (27.19 ± 0.40%), whereas those in RBH were palmitic (36.24 ± 1.08%) and stearic acids (35.21 ± 4.51%). The cytotoxicity assay in single cells and co-culture cells showed the non-cytotoxicity of RBS (0.0001-1 mg/mL) and RBH (0.0001-0.1 mg/mL). The anti-skin ageing activities of 1 mg/mL RBS and 0.1 mg/mL RBH included the melanogenesis inhibition by suppression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 enzymes, the antioxidant activity by cellular protection against cell damage and cell death, the collagen stimulation, the matrix metalloproteinase-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-2 suppression and the anti-inflammation. CONCLUSIONS: The study results suggest that RBS and RBH can potentially be applied as the functional ingredients in formulations against skin ageing as well as provide the superior benefit on skin moisturization.

OBJECTIF: Les cires de son de riz (Oryza sativa) et les sous­produits de la fabrication de l'huile de son de riz sont largement utilisées comme composants inactifs dans plusieurs préparations. Néanmoins, l'effet des cires de son de riz contre le vieillissement de la peau n'a jamais été rapporté. Cette étude visait à étudier les propriétés thermiques et le profil d'acides gras des cires de son de riz, y compris les cires dures et douces de son de riz, et les activités contre le vieillissement de la peau dans les cellules cutanées en culture. MÉTHODES: La propriété thermique et le profil d'acides gras des cires de son de riz ont été analysés par calorimétrie différentielle à balayage et chromatographie en phase gazeuse couplée spectrométrie de masse, respectivement. Le dosage de la cytotoxicité des cires a été réalisé sur des cellules de mélanome B16F10, des fibroblastes de peau humaine, et des cellules de co­culture de cellules HaCaT et des fibroblastes de peau humaine. Les concentrations non cytotoxiques des cires ont été évaluées pour leurs activités contre le vieillissement de la peau, y compris l'analyse de la mélanogenèse, l'activité antioxydante, l'analyse de la teneur en collagène, le test de l'inhibiteur de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­1 et de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­2 et l'activité anti­inflammatoire. RÉSULTATS: La propriété thermique indiquait des pics endothermes avec des températures de fusion à 40,89 ± 0,27 °C et 69,64 ± 0,34 °C pour les cires dures et douces de son de riz, respectivement. Les principaux acides gras des cires douces de son de riz étaient des acides oléiques (31,68 ± 0,75 %) et des acides linoléiques (27,19 ± 0,40 %), tandis que ceux des cires dures de son de riz étaient des acides palmitiques (36,24 ± 1,08 %) et des acides stéariques (35,21 ± 4,51 %). Le dosage de la cytotoxicité dans les cellules individuelles et les cellules de co­culture a montré la non­cytotoxicité des cires douces de son de riz (0,0001 à 1 mg/ml) et des cires dures de son de riz (0,0001 à 0,1 mg/ml). Les activités antivieillissement de la peau de 1 mg/ml de cire douce de son de riz et de 0,1 mg/ml de cire dure de son de riz comprenaient l'inhibition de la mélanogenèse par suppression des enzymes de la tyrosinase et de la protéine liée à la tyrosinase 2, l'activité antioxydante par protection cellulaire contre les dommages et la mort cellulaires, la stimulation du collagène, la suppression de la métalloprotéinase matricielle­1 et la métalloprotéinase matricielle­2 et l'activité anti­inflammatoire. CONCLUSIONS: Les résultats de l'étude indiquent que les cires dures et douces de son de riz peuvent potentiellement être appliquées comme ingrédients fonctionnels dans des formulations contre le vieillissement de la peau et fournir un bénéfice supérieur en termes d'hydratation de la peau.

Phenolic-rich Pomegranate Peel Extract: In Vitro, Cellular, and In Vivo Activities for Skin Hyperpigmentation Treatment.

The pomegranate phenolics are reported to have cutaneous benefits and to be effective in treating skin disorders, including hyperpigmentation. In this context, a preparation method was developed by which to obtain phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract. Sinapic acid was presented as the major pomegranate peel phenolics, followed by gallic and ellagic acids, and 4 additional phenolics. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity with an in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory effect. The skin hyperpigmentation treating potency was confirmed by the suppression of cellular melanogenesis through tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitions as examined in the B16F10 melanoma cells. Cellular antioxidant and proliferative activities of the extract toward human dermal fibroblasts were evidenced, as well as an inhibitory effect against MMP-2. The extract was developed into the stable serum and mask. The products were proved to be non-irritated in 30 Thai volunteers participating in a single application closed patch test. A split-face, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled test of the skin lightening effect was evaluated in the 30 volunteers over 28 consecutive daily treatments and monitored by the Mexameter MX 18. The active serum and mask were better in facial skin lightening efficacy than the placebo (p < 0.005). That was in accordance with the sensory evaluation scored by the volunteers. Phenolic-rich pomegranate peel extract is evidenced as a safe herbal derived material promising for skin hyperpigmentation treatment. Supportive information regarding chemical and biological profiles is presented with the confirmed safety and cutaneous benefits in volunteers.

Improved Stability of Butterfly Pea Anthocyanins with Biopolymeric Walls.

Butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea) anthocyanins are important natural food colorants. However, the instability hinders industrial applications. The butterfly pea anthocyanin extract was prepared and mixed with biopolymeric wall systems such as maltodextrin (MD) and gum arabic (GA), MD and gelatin (GE), and MD and guar gum at 1/4 and 1/5 ratios with or without acidified condition, and assessed using the accelerated stability test. The total anthocyanin content (TAC) and color were reassessed. The biopolymeric walls of MD and GA (1/5) under acidified condition exhibited best stability enhancement in comparison with the unprotected one (12.04% ± 4.49% and 85.37% ± 0.22% TAC reduction, respectively). a* and b shifts of the protected system were 4.76% ± 0.00% and 0.28% ± 0.00%, respectively. The particle size of this system was 95.44 ± 1.57 µm. This stabilized anthocyanin extract can, therefore, be used in food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Plants and Natural Products for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation - A Review.

Skin hyperpigmentation is caused by several factors that upregulate melanogenesis. Plants and natural products with skin-whitening effects are gaining interest among consumers and researchers because they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than synthetic alternatives. This review extensively summarizes the status of plants and natural products currently used in skin-whitening cosmetics as well as potential candidates for future use, because the scope of natural choices for efficient treatment of skin hyperpigmentation is rapidly widening. Biological activities of plants and natural extracts are therefore available for cosmetic formulators and dermatologists interested in naturally derived ingredients for skin hyperpigmentation treatment and in accordance with the consumers' preferences and expectations upon natural cosmetic products.

Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences.

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

In vitro and cellular activities of the selected fruits residues for skin aging treatment.

Peel extracts of litchi and rambutan, and that of tamarind seed coat were investigated in relation to their utility in skin-aging treatments. Standardized extracts of tamarind were significantly (p < 0.05) more efficient at O2 •- scavenging (IC50 = 27.44 ± 0.09) than those of litchi and rambutan (IC50 = 29.57 ± 0.30 and 39.49 ± 0.52 µg/ml, respectively) and the quercetin standard (IC50 = 31.88 ± 0.15 µg/ml). Litchi extract proved significantly (p < 0.05) more effective for elastase and collagenase inhibition (88.29 ± 0.25% and 79.46 ± 0.92%, respectively) than tamarind (35.43 ± 0.68% and 57.69 ± 5.97%) or rambutan (31.08 ± 0.38% and 53.99 ± 6.18%). All extracts were safe to human skin fibroblasts and inhibit MMP-2, with litchi extract showing significantly (p < 0.01) enhanced inhibition over the standard, vitamin C (23.75 ± 2.74% and 10.42 ± 5.91% at 0.05 mg/ml, respectively). Extracts suppress melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells through inhibition of tyrosinase and TRP-2, with litchi extract being the most potent, even more so than kojic acid (standard). These results highlight the potential for adding value to agro-industrial waste, as the basis for the sustainable production of innovative, safe, anti-aging cosmetic products.

Biopolymeric agents for skin wrinkle treatment.

Skin aging is caused by several factors capable of deteriorating dermal matrix and is visibly noticed in skin color and skin contour deformities. In addition to the prevention of skin aging by application of antioxidants and sunscreens, treatment of skin wrinkles with those of dermal fillers is also recommended. Dermal filler products with enhanced injectability and longer duration are being developed continuously. Biodegradable polymers such as skin elastic fibers and dermal matrix mimetic used for treatment of skin wrinkle are summarized in this article. Additionally, the importance of amino acids, enzymes, and proteins in aesthetic of skin is addressed. Thus, elective agents are proposed for the dermatologists, cosmetic formulators, and the individuals facing skin aging problems. The candidate natural peptides from marine sources are additionally presented for widening the choice of actives application for treating aging.

Development and clinical evaluation of green tea hair tonic for greasy scalp treatment.

Green tea has cosmetic benefits that include activities against androgen disorders. A hair tonic containing green tea for reduction of scalp sebum was developed and clinically evaluated. Stable green tea hair tonics were closed-patch tested and clinically evaluated in 20 volunteers for 28 days by using a Sebumeter ® . Hair tonic base with glycerin and butylene glycol (total 4%) gained the highest consumers' preference was incorporated with green tea extract. All of the products were stable and none caused skin irritation. Green tea hair tonic (2%) significantly (p ≤ 0.024) lowered scalp sebum for 21 and 28 days following the application, suggesting that this topical therapy of scalp greasiness is safe and efficient.

Analysis of octyl methoxycinnamate in sunscreen products by a validated UV-spectrophotometric method.

An inexpensive, rapid method for the determination of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) in sunscreen products using ultraviolet-spectrophotometry has been developed and validated according to International Council for Harmonisation and Association of Official Analytical Chemists guidelines. Methanol was the optimal solvent used with a linearity range of 4­12 µg\/ml (r = 0.999) being obtainable. The accuracy of the method is highlighted by the % recovery (98.23­98.50) and relative standard deviation (%RSD, 0.12), and it is widely applicable to prototype products composed of oil in water, and water in oil emulsions. Mineral oils containing low, intermediate, and high OMC levels (1%, 4%, and 7.5%) gave recovery percentages of 99.76­100.76 with %RSD of 0.02­0.28. In addition, this method is repeatable and affords a high degree of precision (%RSD = 0.12 and 0) with 96.08­99.27% recovery. The method is suitable for quality assurance of suncare product formulations, and could be applicable to product development and validation.

An update on cutaneous aging treatment using herbs.

Skin aging is caused by several factors. Ultraviolet (UV) exposure as well as oxidative stress elevates inflammatory mediators causing degradation of the extracellular matrix, which is regarded as the major cause of skin wrinkles, one of the signs of aging. Topical applications of active ingredients protect against dermal photodamage and scavenge radicals that can delay skin aging. Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors against degradation of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronan are the key strategy to combat cutaneous aging. In addition, active ingredients with the efficacy to enhance extracellular matrix production, including those with UV protection efficacy, play an important role in protecting the skin from aging. Naturally derived compounds for combating skin wrinkles are gaining more interest among the consumers as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier. This article, therefore, briefly addresses the causes of skin aging and extensively summarizes on herbs appraisal for skin wrinkles treatment. Therefore, delaying aging of skin using the functional herbs would maintain the individual's appearance with high esthetic and psychosocial impacts.

Volatile profile and sensory property of Gardenia jasminoides aroma extracts.

The volatile profiles of aroma extracts prepared from the flower of Gardenia jasminoides by different methods were investigated using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The enfleurage extraction using spermaceti wax and palm oil afforded the best aroma extract with a preference that was significantly (p < 0.05) better than those from solvent extractions, as sensorially evaluated in 43 volunteers. The odor quality of the absolute de enfleurage was similar to the floral scent of fresh gardenia, as confirmed in 152 volunteers. Although female volunteers were insignificantly (p > 0.05) better sensed than male volunteers, age was significant (p < 0.05). The nuance gardenia floral scent was contributed by farnesene, Z-3-hexenyl tiglate, Z-3-hexenyl benzoate, and indole. The relaxing and refreshing sensations of the gardenia odor suggest its applications in body care, cleansing products, and perfume. This study addresses the increasing interest in floral fragrances. The aroma profile and sensory property of this sweet and elegant scent flower will strengthen and expand the applications of gardenia from traditional medicine to those of perfumery and the field of phytochemistry.

Sacha Inchi: The Promising Source of Functional Oil for Anti-Aging Product.

Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis) oil is constituted with macronutrients and the health benefit fatty acids. In this context, the efficient of Sacha inchi oil for anti-aging product is presented. The light-clear yellowish seed oil of Sacha inchi was revealed on its physicochemical properties that are in the same range of the commercializing plant-oil supplied for topical products. The oil was GC/MS exhibited to be constituted with α-linolenic (51.72%) and linoleic (24.3%) acids, with unsaturated/saturated fatty acids ratio of 21.26. The oil was noted onto its potent in vitro antioxidant activity assessed by ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. In addition, the oil (1-3%) was proved to be safe in normal human fibroblast cells. Furthermore, the oil exhibited cellular antioxidant with inhibitory effect against MMP-2. Sacha inchi oil is therefore highlighted as a potential source of nutraceutical especially for anti-aging product. The oil is specified for the product development in terms of physicochemical, chemical and biological profiles. Innovative processing of Sacha inchi is therefore encouraged as the promising plant for anti-aging product.

Wound healing and photoprotection properties of Acanthus ebracteatus Vahl. extracts standardized in verbascoside.

Acanthus spp. have been documented in traditional Thai herbal medicine and are applicable for the treatment of inflamed skin with wound healing property. Nonetheless, the scientific evidence necessary to prove the herb's doctrine has not yet been revealed. Verbascoside-rich extracts of the herbal medicine A. ebracteatus Vahl., were therefore prepared. The extracts and verbascoside were examined for their wound healing abilities using a scratch assay with fibroblasts. The anti-inflammatory effect suppressing MMP-9 was assessed in cocultures of keratinocyte (HaCaT cells) and fibroblasts. The extracts significantly improved wound healing compared with the control (p < 0.001). The wound healing effect of the extracts significantly (p < 0.01) increased with increasing verbascoside content. It should be noted that the extract was significantly (p < 0.05) better than verbascoside at the same test concentration. The extracts were capable of protecting cocultures of HaCaT cells and fibroblasts from photodamage. The extracts significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed cellular MMP-9 secretion following UV exposure, showing a better effect than that of verbascoside (p < 0.01). A. ebracteatus extract is promising for wound healing and photoprotection, and a prominent source of verbascoside. Verbascoside-rich A. ebracteatus could be utilized for the development of innovative skin-care products.

Recent insights into catechins-rich Assam tea extract for photoaging and senescent ageing.

Tea (Camellia spp.) is an important medicinal herb. C. sinensis var. sinensis is the most studied tea variety due to its more preferred flavor than C. sinensis var. assamica (Assam tea), the less economic importance with more bitter variety. A bitter taste highlights its potential as a candidate source for tea catechins, the health beneficial actives applicable for ageing treatment. Nonetheless, indicative data for tea on UV-induced and senescent ageing remain unclarified. Assam tea extract (ATE) was prepared and standardized in terms of TPC, TFC and TTC. EGCG was HPLC quantified as the prime ATE catechin. In vitro antioxidant activity of ATE was exhibited with ABTS, DPPH and FRAP assays. ATE's cellular antioxidant activity was indicated in HDFs at a stronger degree than ascorbic acid. The photoaging protection of ATE was evidenced in a coculture of HaCaT cells and HDFs. ATE markedly suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions. The proficiency of ATE targeting on senescent ageing was demonstrated in an ex vivo human skin model, where IL-6 and MMP-1 expressions were suppressed, whilst hyaluronic acid and collagen syntheses were promoted. ATE was chemically stabled as indicated by the catechin contents and color parameters following 6 months storage under conditions recommended for topical product. ATE enriched in catechins warrants its applicability as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent promising for the prevention and treatment for senescent ageing. The findings indicate the proficiency of ATE for innovative anti-ageing agent.

Salak plum peel extract as a safe and efficient antioxidant appraisal for cosmetics.

The antioxidant activities of Salak plum (Salacca edulis) peel extracts were assessed by 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothaiazoline)-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), and ferric reducing ability of plasma (FRAP) assays. The ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction was the most potent (DPPHIC50=2.932 ± 0.030 µg/mL, ABTSIC50=7.933 ± 0.049 µg/mL, FRAPEC=7,844.44 ± 40.734). Chlorogenic acid was detected as the marker (1.400 ± 0.102 g/kg). The EtOAc fraction was non-cytotoxic in vero and normal human fibroblast (NHF) cells. It exhibited cellular oxidative prevention and damage treatment at 5-40 µg/mL in NHF cells. Salak plum peel loaded liposome consisting of lecithin and hydrophobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose (HMHEC) was developed and found stable with adequate entrapment efficacy. Thus Salak plum peel was highlighted as a potential ecological antioxidant for health promotion aspects, and for cosmetics.

Aroma profiles and preferences of Jasminum sambac L. flowers grown in Thailand.

Comparison of volatile constituents and odor preference of Jasminum sambac cultivated in Thailand was performed by enfleurage and solvent extractions. Enfleurage bases consisting of spermaceti wax, olive, sunflower, and rice bran oils were prepared. The defleurage flower was daily replaced with fresh jasmine for a period of 12 days. The absolute de pomades and extraits of each base were subjected to gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC/MS) analysis, comparing with the concrete and absolute values obtained from maceration of jasmine in n-hexane for 24 h. Linalool, benzyl acetate, and α-farnesene were found as the main volatile compounds in the jasmine extracts. Spermaceti wax and olive oil gave the best quality base, exhibiting the most preferred resemblance of jasmine odor with the least difference from fresh jasmine, as evaluated by 103 Thai volunteers.

Cordyceps militaris polysaccharides: preparation and topical product application.

BACKGROUND: Topical product derived from the fungus Cordyceps militaris was explored as a feasible method for an industrial practice. RESULTS: The mycelium residue of C. militaris that was industrial biotechnological produced was extracted with water at different time conditions under ambient temperature, filtered and lyophilized. The extracts were all light to dark brown powder. The 24 h extraction was significantly (p < 0.01) highest in an extractive yield and total polysaccharides content (TPC) (43.33 ± 0.99% and 144.02 ± 2.06 mg glucose/g crude extract). This extract was proved to be stable following an accelerated stability test with the insignificant (p > 0.05) reduction of TPC (4.95 ± 2.23%). Topical product containing the extract were developed. Skin care preparation containing 0.2% extract was exhibited as the appropriated amount giving the stable cream. The developed C. militaris polysaccharide cream was confirmed safe and gained more than 70% of the overall preferences examined in 20 female volunteers. CONCLUSIONS: Cordyceps militaris mycelium residue is a beneficial source for pharmaceutical products. The C. militaris polysaccharides extract was prepared and qualified in terms of active content and stability. The extract was shown to be compatible with the available cosmetic ingredients. The safe and preferred C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics was developed. Accordingly, C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics that meets all the quality characters which are stable, safe, usable and efficient.

Biological activity assessment and phenolic compounds characterization from the fruit pericarp of Litchi chinensis for cosmetic applications.

CONTEXT: Litchi chinensis Sonn. (Spindaceae) is an important economic fruit of Thailand. Therapeutic effects of the fruits are contributed by anti-inflammatory phenolics. OBJECTIVE: To extract the litchi fruit pericarp in order to identify biologically actives substances with potential for cosmetic application. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The litchi pericarp was macerated by 70% ethanol (EtOH) and partitioned using n-hexane and ethyl acetate (EtOAc). In vitro antioxidant activities were assessed by 1, 1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ABTS and ferric reducing ability of plasma (FRAP) assays including tyrosinase inhibitory effect. Cellular radical scavenging capacity was monitored in a normal human fibroblast cell culture (NHF). Total phenolic content was determined and characterized by HPLC. RESULTS: The EtOAc fraction was a significant antioxidant, stronger than ascorbic acid (p < 0.01), as assessed by ABTS (IC(50) = 7.137 ± 0.021 µg/mL), DPPH (IC(50) = 2.288 ± 0.063 µg/mL) and FRAP (EC(1mMFeSO4) = 8013.183 ± 58.804 µg/mL) assays. It demonstrated an antityrosinase effect (IC(50) = 197.860 ± 1.230 µg/mL) and showed no cytotoxic activity toward Vero and NHF cells, at a maximum tested concentration (50 µg/mL), with cellular antioxidant activity. Total phenolic content was highest in the most potent antioxidant fraction. Quercetin, rosmarinic and gallic acids were found. Total phenolic content is highly related to FRAP, antityrosinase, and ABTS activities. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION: Pericarp from litchi fruit can be obtained abundantly from agricultural waste, and the strong antioxidant activity demonstrated in this report may have application in topical cosmetic products. This ecological antioxidant can be prepared using a feasible method resulting in less waste and increased agro-industrial profitability.

Nanocomplex of quaternized cyclodextrin grafted chitosan and hyaluronic acid for a skin delivery.

Water soluble quaternized cyclodexrin grafted chitosan (QCD-g-CS) was synthesized by combining both beneficial properties of ß-cyclodextrin (ß-CD) and the chitosan (CS) backbone. The chitosan backbone exhibits positive charges, while the ß-CD moieties are available to include hydrophobic guest molecules into the cavity. The present work demonstrates a formation of nanocomplexes by simple mixing of the cationic QCD-g-CS with three different molecular weights of anionic Hyaluronic acid (low, medium and high HA; LHA, MHA and HHA, respectively). The HA is well-known on providing hydration to the skin and normalize keratinization. However, its strong hydrophilicity limits skin absorption. The polyelectrolyte nanocomplexes between QCD-g-CS and HA formed through the electrostatic interactions were confirmed by FTIR. Particle size of HA nanocomplexes were greater than that of free QCD-g-CS and increased with an increase in HA content. The complex of LHA and MHA improve the water retention capacity as well as ability to control the release of HA to be slower than the original HA. The release of both LHA and MHA from their complexes were both limited diffusion kinetics. Pronounced effect of small particle sizes of LHA complexes was found to benefit skin penetration. Clinical study indicated that LHA complexes improved skin texture and elasticity due to an increase in skin hydration. It is suggested that the QCD-g-CS in combination with anionic hydrophilic HA can be used as a promising polysaccharide-based skin delivery system.