In vivo determination of the Infrared-A protection factor on human skin.

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to infrared A (IR-A) irradiation causes photoaging. However, daily or acute exposure to IR-A rarely induces erythema or pigmentation. Thus, evaluation of the physiological changes taking place on the skin surface is insufficient for clinical investigations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: We fabricated a novel device to obtain the IR-A protection factor (IPF) on human skin. This device consists of an artificial light source that mimics the actual IR-A intensity of sunlight, and a spectrophotometer to measure the spectral reflectance on the skin surface. The IPF can be determined by measuring the difference in spectral reflectance on the skin before and after the use of products and can be verified by the statistical criterion. A validation study was performed using different light intensities and two experimenters. Finally, we monitored the IPF on 12 commercial cosmetics. RESULTS: After considering the IPF and L*-values, we selected the optimal sample and performed a validation study. Neither the intensity of IR-A irradiation or the experimenters significantly affected the IPF. 12 commercial products exhibited their own IPF values and were verified by statistical criteria, with one exception. CONCLUSION: The present IPF evaluation method was concluded to be robust and reliable. This method is simple and safe for the subjects, and could be helpful for the development of IR-A protection products and the confirmation of product performances.

Biocompatible Wax-Based Microcapsules with Hermetic Sealing for Thermally Triggered Release of Actives.

We present a microfluidic approach that utilizes temperature-responsive and biocompatible palm oil as the shell material in microcapsules to simultaneously achieve hermetic sealing as well as on-demand temperature-triggered release of the encapsulated actives. Unlike common paraffin waxes (e.g., eicosane), microcapsule shells comprising palm oil do not form pores or cracks during freezing and provide a hermetic seal, a nearly perfect seal that separates the core containing the actives from the surrounding environment over a prolonged period of time. This allows effective isolation and protection of complex cargoes such as small molecules with high diffusivity, strong acids, and cosmetic actives including niacinamide. Moreover, the palm oil shell melts above the defined melting temperature, allowing the on-demand release of the encapsulated actives. Furthermore, palm oil is biocompatible, is edible, and leaves a minimal footprint when used in personal care and cosmetic products, offering new perspectives in the design of microcapsules for cosmetic applications.

Ultraviolet light screen using cholesteric liquid crystal capsules on the basis of selective reflection.

Sunscreen can protect human skin from sunlight by decreasing exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, specifically UV-B and UV-A. In this study, a new type of UV screen system is proposed using cholesteric liquid crystal (CLC) capable of selectively reflecting UV-A within the human skin temperature range of 32-36 °C. Polycaprolactone (PCL) capsules with CLC mixture which had a helical chiral pitch corresponding to the wavelength of UV light were made by a solvent evaporation method. The average diameter of the capsules was about 34 µm. Consequently, it was confirmed that the CLC mixture (COC : CN = 80 : 20) could reflect UV-A light over 350-380 nm within the human skin temperature range. Also, it was confirmed that the CLC/PCL microcapsules could block UV light over 290-400 nm by about 6%.