The Effect of a Ceramide-Containing Product on Stratum Corneum Lipid Levels in Dry Legs.

Roughly equimolar concentrations of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids arranged in lamellar sheets form the intercellular lipid barrier in the stratum corneum (SC). Intercellular lipid deficiencies, specifically ceramides, and barrier disruption are associated with many dermatologic conditions, including dry skin. This study explored the relationship between the improvement in the signs of dry skin and the amounts of ceramides in the SC by combining clinical observations with a biochemical analysis to quantify the level of SC intercellular lipids. The efficacy of a multilamellar vesicular emulsion (MVE), ceramide-containing moisturizing cream was evaluated in a randomized, investigator-blinded, split-leg study on female subjects with dry, itchy skin. The cream increased skin hydration and demonstrated an immediate and sustained reduction in the visible signs of dry skin and subject perceived sensory discomfort. Additionally, ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acid levels in the SC significantly increased after 4 weeks of moisturizer application. Thus, the clinical effect of the ceramide-containing moisturizing cream on dry, itchy skin was accompanied by an increase in SC intercellular lipid levels. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(4):372-376. doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.4796.

Effect of a Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, and Niacinamide Containing Serum on Facial Dyschromia: A Clinical Evaluation

Background: Stubborn dyschromia such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are leading causes for cosmetic consultation. Topical treatment is challenging, using a range of modalities, to stop, hinder, and/or prevent steps in the pigment production process. Tranexamic acid (TXA), a potent plasmin inhibitor, is proposed to control pigmentation by inhibiting the release of inflammatory mediators involved in triggering melanogenesis. TXA has been recently introduced as a topical therapy aimed at reducing pigmentation in melasma. Methods: In a 12-week clinical study, a novel, topical facial serum containing 3% TXA, 1% kojic acid, and 5% niacinamide was evaluated for its effectiveness in treating melasma, PIH, and hyperpigmentation in Brazilian female subjects with Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV. Efficacy evaluations were performed at pre-treatment baseline, weeks 2, 4, 8, and 12, and included expert clinical grading, bio-instrumental measurements, and self-assessment questionnaires. Cutaneous tolerability was also evaluated by assessing subjective and objective irritation of the treatment area. Results: A significant improvement in the appearance of PIH, hyperpigmentation, melasma, skin texture, and skin tone homogeneity was observed beginning at week 2 and continued through week 12. Melanin index, as measured by Mexameter®, demonstrated a significant decrease by week 12 as compared to both pre-treatment baseline and control. Conclusions: The findings suggest that the test product is an effective and well-tolerated treatment option for addressing hyperpigmentary conditions, including melasma. Additional in vitro data suggests that TXA may act by mediating the inhibition of PGE2-stimulated human epidermal melanocytes. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(5):454-459.

Clinical Evaluation of a Multi-Modal Facial Serum That Addresses Hyaluronic Acid Levels in Skin.

BACKGROUND: Hyaluronic acid (HA), the major glycosaminoglycan present in the human skin, is a key contributor to water retention and mechanical support in skin. The level, size, and functionality of cutaneous HA are known to diminish with age. Topical treatments designed to increase the HA content of skin have been met with limited success. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the tolerance and efficacy of a multi-modal facial serum containing HA, Proxylane (C-Xyloside), purple rice extract, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate in addressing HA levels in skin. METHODS: A 12-week, single center, clinical study was conducted on 59 women with mild to moderate photodamage. Clinical grading to assess the efficacy and tolerability was conducted on the face at baseline and at weeks 4, 8, and 12. Bioinstrumentation measurements were taken, including corneometer, tewameter, ultrasound, and standardized digital imaging. A randomized subset of 20 subjects from the study population had 3 mm punch biopsies collected for quantitative RT-PCR analysis from 2 sites on the face at baseline and week 12. Additionally, a 4-week, single center, clinical study was conducted on the photodamaged forearms of 12 subjects. At both baseline and week 4, a 4 mm punch biopsy was obtained from the subjects' randomized forearms. Biopsy samples were subjected to immunohistochemical staining and analysis of HA content. RESULTS: Statistically-significant improvements in all facial skin attributes (weeks 4, 8, and 12), stratum corneum hydration (week 12), and transepidermal water loss (week 12) were observed. Tolerability was excellent, with no increases in irritation parameters noted. A significant increase of HA content in skin after 4 weeks of treatment was observed. By PCR analysis, there was a significant increase in hyaluronan synthase 2, as well as a significant increase in collagen type 1a1 after 12 weeks of application. CONCLUSION: The findings suggest that this novel topical facial serum is capable of stimulating HA and skin extracellular matrix components, as well as improving skin hydration and skin quality in women with mild to moderate photodamage.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(9):884-890.

A method for maintaining the clinical results of 4% hydroquinone and 0.025% tretinoin with a cosmeceutical formulation.

Facial dyspigmentation treatment is an unmet need in dermatology with increasing challenges due to the questionable safety of hydroquinone. This research examined a new OTC formulation containing hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, ellagic acid, yeast extract, and salicylic acid on subjects who previously completed 12 weeks of treatment with 4% hydroquinone and 0.025% retinoic acid. The goal of this study was to evaluate the skin lightening and tolerability profile of a 20-week maintanence therapy with a cosmeceutical formulation during the summer months. 33 healthy subjects ages 25-60 years with moderate facial dyspigmentation defined as a score of 3 on a 5-point scale were enrolled. There was statistically significant improvement at week 20 in terms of even skin tone (P<0.001), spot intensity (P<0.001), spot size (P<0.05) and overall hyperpigmentation (P>=0.002).

Complementary clinical effects of topical tightening treatment in conjunction with a radiofrequency procedure.

UNLABELLED: Abstract Background: Skin laxity and cellulite on the buttocks and thighs are two common cosmetic concerns. Skin tightening with radiofrequency (RF) devices has become increasingly popular. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this study is to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a topical skin laxity tightening agent when used in combination with an RF device. METHODS: A double-blinded, randomized clinical trial enrolled twenty females with mild-to-moderate skin laxity on the posterior thighs/buttocks. Each subject underwent two monthly treatments with an RF source (Alma Accent) to both legs. Subjects were then randomized to apply a topical agent (Skinceuticals Body Tightening Concentrate) twice daily to only one designated thigh/buttock throughout the eight-week duration of the study. All subjects were evaluated for improvement in lifting, skin tone, radiance, firmness/tightness, skin texture, and overall appearance based on photographic evaluation by blinded investigators at 12 weeks following the final RF treatment. RESULTS: A statistically significant improvement was found in the overall appearance on both sides treated with the RF device when compared to baseline. However, the area treated with the topical agent showed a statistically significantly greater degree of improvement than the side where no topical agent was applied. No adverse effects were reported. CONCLUSION: The use of a novel skin tightening agent used after RF procedures is both safe and effective for treatment of skin laxity on the buttocks and thighs. Combined therapy leads to a better result.

Tolerance and efficacy of a product containing ellagic and salicylic acids in reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots in comparison with 4% hydroquinone.

Hydroquinone (HQ) is the benchmark prescription agent for skin lightening. However, HQ use is recently banned in Europe and in parts of Asia because of potential long-term consequences, including carcinogenesis when orally consumed. This has resulted in development of alternative skin-lightening agents with comparable efficacy to HQ, but better safety profiles. This study examined the skin-lightening ability of a topical product containing 0.5% ellagic acid and 0.1% salicylic acid and compared its efficacy with that of a prescription generic 4% HQ product. Fifty-four multiethnic subjects were randomly assigned to use the topical test formulation or generic 4% HQ twice daily for 12 weeks to evaluate product tolerability and efficacy. Under the conditions of this double-blinded clinical study, the test product demonstrated comparable tolerance and efficacy to that of a benchmark product 4% HQ, as assessed by clinical grading, physical measurement of spot size using image analysis, and questionnaire response analysis. This study suggests that this new product provided comparable skin depigmentation benefit to the benchmark product. In addition, the product appears to have better esthetics (texture, pleasantness to use, skin feel) than the 4% HQ product.

Safety and efficacy of two anti-acne/anti-aging treatments in subjects with photodamaged skin and mild to moderate acne vulgaris.

BACKGROUND: Although reliable prevalence data are not available, adult acne is thought to be somewhat common, and it is not unusual for patients to have acne as well as early signs of skin aging. A novel anti-acne/anti-aging formulation (Treatment A) has been developed for daily use by patients to address both signs of skin aging and facial acne vulgaris. The novel, non-prescription formulation includes several ingredients shown to target factors underlying the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris while also addressing multiple components in the pathophysiology of skin aging. METHODS: A blinded, randomized, split-face study was conducted to evaluate and compare the tolerability and efficacy of the novel anti-acne/ anti-aging product in subjects with photodamaged skin and acne vulgaris relative to tretinoin cream 0.025% (Treatment B). All subjects also were given supportive skincare, consisting of a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. Each treatment was assessed for its effects on subjects' appearance, lesion count reductions, and tolerability. RESULTS: Treatment A produced statistically significantly greater improvements in skin tone evenness, skin tone clarity, and blemishes and blotchiness. There were also statistically greater reductions in total lesion count for acne patients on the side of the face treated with Treatment A compared to Treatment B; Treatment A was also associated with early (day 2) improvement in skin tone evenness and clarity, tactile skin smoothness, and blemishes and blotchiness. Both treatments demonstrated favorable tolerability. CONCLUSION: The novel topical anti-aging/anti-acne therapy (Treatment A) within a comprehensive skin care regimen of cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen may maximize efficacy and tolerability and contribute to our armamentarium for treating both photodamage and acne at the same time.

An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing C-xyloside and blueberry extract on the appearance of type II diabetic skin.

BACKGROUND: Diabetes is a multisystem disease caused by the presence of chronic hyperglycemia, which leads to increased oxidative stress. Many of the changes observed in type II diabetic patients can be traced to the increased production of advanced glycation end products, also known as AGEs. AGEs are produced as a result of a nonenzymatic reaction with glucose interacting with proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids. AGEs are also present in normal skin with advancing age and contribute to the senescence of many body organs, including the skin. AIMS: This research evaluated the effect of a topical product formulation containing blueberry extract, an AGE inhibitor, and C-xyloside, a GAG synthesis stimulator, applied twice daily on the hand, arm, and facial skin of 20 type II diabetic females. Diabetic skin was chosen for evaluation because AGEs are found in increased concentration in diabetic skin, representing a model for accelerated aging. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This single-center study enrolled 20 female type II diabetics aged 55+ years with mild to moderate fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation on the face and hands. Subjects used the study product on their face, hand, and inner forearm twice daily for 12 weeks. Ordinal grading on a 4-point scale (0 = none, 1 = mild, 2 =moderate, 3 = severe) of facial fine lines, wrinkles, firmness, radiance, skin tone, skin smoothness, hyperpigmentation, creping, density, sagging, and overall appearance was performed by the investigator at baseline, week 4, week 8, and week 12. Tolerability, subject assessments, digital photography, AGE measurements, skin caliper measurements, and corneometry were also performed at each time point. RESULTS: 19/20 subjects successfully completed the study. The presence of AGEs was documented by skin autofluorescence. The 12-week duration of the study was insufficient to measure a change in skin AGEs, but longer application of the study product might produce different results. No tolerability issues were noted. There was a statistically significant increase in skin caliper measurements on the face (P = 0.004) and arm (P = 0.014) as well as corneometry measurements (P < 0.001) consistent with enhanced moisturization at week 12. The dermatologist investigator also found statistically significant improvement in fine lines (P = 0.01), firmness (P = 0.011), radiance (P < 0.001), skin tone (P = 0.014), skin smoothness (P < 0.001), creping (P < 0.004), and overall appearance (P < 0.001). CONCLUSION: This study examined a topical product containing an AGE inhibitor and a GAG synthesis stimulator designed for the unique needs of diabetic skin.