New bioprinted skin, cosmetic in vitro model.

We developed a new evolution of three-dimensional skin equivalent due to the optimization of four-dimensional laser-assisted bioprinting and skin equivalent culture protocols. This allowed us to produce fully bioprinted skin equivalents that are closed to current skin equivalents and suitable to test cosmetic ingredients. Particularly, we performed preliminary evaluation of maturogens to improve the dermis maturation before the epidermal seeding and we designed a specific "micropattern" to reproduce the nonlinear aspect of the dermal-epidermal junction. Finally an active ingredient was applied during the production of the bioprinted skin equivalent.

Discovery of benzylidenebenzofuran-3(2H)-one (aurones) as inhibitors of tyrosinase derived from human melanocytes.

Tyrosinase is a copper-dependent enzyme which converts l- tyrosine to dopaquinone and is involved in different biological processes such as melanogenesis and skin hyperpigmentation. The purpose of this study was to investigate naturally occurring aurones (Z-benzylidenebenzofuran-3(2H)-one) and analogues as human tyrosinase inhibitors. Several aurones bearing hydroxyl groups on A-ring and different substituents on B-ring were synthesized and evaluated as inhibitors of human melanocyte-tyrosinase by an assay which measures tyrosinase-catalyzed l-Dopa oxidation. We found that unsubstituted aurones were weak inhibitors; however, derivatives with two or three hydroxyl groups preferably at 4,6 and 4' positions are able to induce significant tyrosinase inhibition. The most potent aurone was found to be the naturally occurring 4,6,4'-trihydroxyaurone which induces 75% inhibition at 0.1 mM concentration and is highly effective when compared to kojic acid, one of the best tyrosinase inhibitors known so far (the latter is completely inactive at such concentrations). Active aurones are devoid of toxic effects as shown by in vivo studies.

Analogues of N-hydroxycinnamoylphenalkylamides as inhibitors of human melanocyte-tyrosinase.

Melanin play a major role in human skin protection and their biosynthesis is vital. Due to their color, they contribute to the skin pigmentation. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme involved in the first stage of melanin synthesis, catalyzing the transformation of tyrosine to l-dopaquinone. The aim of the present study was to study molecules able to inhibit melanin synthesis through inhibition of tyrosinase and their potential use in treating pigmentation-related disorders. We targeted amides obtained from coupling p-hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives with phenylalkylamines. The biological activity was evaluated on human melanocytes by an assay which measures tyrosine-catalyzed L-Dopa oxidation. The most active amides were: trans-N-caffeoyltyramine, N-dihydrocaffeoyltyramine, and trans-N-dihydro-p-hydroxycinnamoyltyramine which induce complete inhibition at 0.1mM. At the latter concentration, kojic acid, which was used as the reference inhibitor, was inactive.