Effects of climbing- and resistance-training on climbing-specific performance: a systematic review and meta-analysis.

The objective of this systematic review and meta-analysis was to examine the effects of climbing and climbing-and-resistance-training on climbing performance, and strength and endurance tests. We systematically searched three databases (SPORTDiscus, SCOPUS, and PubMed) for records published until January 2021. The search was limited to randomized-controlled trials using active climbers and measuring climbing performance or performance in climbing-specific tests. Data from the meta-analysis are presented as standardized difference in mean (SDM) with 95% confidence intervals (95% CI). Eleven studies are included in the systematic review and five studies compared training to a control group and could be meta-analyzed. The overall meta-analysis displayed an improvement in climbing-related test performance following climbing-specific resistance training compared to only climbing (SDM = 0.57, 95%CI = 0.24-0.91). Further analyses revealed that finger strength (SDM = 0.41, 95%CI 0.03-0.80), rate of force development (SDM = 0.91, 95%CI = 0.21-1.61), and forearm endurance (SDM = 1.23, 95%CI = 0.69-1.77) were improved by resistance-training of the finger flexors compared to climbing training. The systematic review showed that climbing performance may be improved by specific resistance-training or interval-style bouldering. However, resistance-training of the finger flexors showed no improvements in strength or endurance in climbing-specific tests. The available evidence suggests that resistance-training may be more effective than just climbing-training for improving performance outcomes. Importantly, interventional studies including climbers is limited and more research is needed to confirm these findings.

Contemporary Training Practices of Norwegian Powerlifters.

ABSTRACT: Shaw, MP, Andersen, V, Sæterbakken, AH, Paulsen, G, Samnøy, LE, and Solstad, TEJ. Contemporary training practices of Norwegian powerlifters. J Strength Cond Res 36(9): 2544-2551, 2022-The aim of this study was to explore the contemporary training practices of Norwegian powerlifters. One hundred twenty-four Norwegian powerlifters completed an electronic questionnaire that surveyed their current training practices with a focus on 2 areas: (a) training content and (b) training design and monitoring. One hundred seventeen respondents met the inclusion criteria, and the sample included World, European, and Norwegian champions. Where data were dichotomized, chi-square tests were used. The most frequently reported (58.1%) category of training was 5-6 times per week, with no statistically significant associations between levels of competitors (international vs. noninternational) (X 2 (1) = 0.414, p = 0.52). The most frequently reported load used in training was 71-80% 1 repetition maximum. The majority of Norwegian (76.9%) powerlifters train with variable resistance, with those competing internationally more likely to use elastic bands (X 2 (1) = 4.473, p = 0.034). 32.5% of respondents reported that they included strength training exercises in their training. Norwegian powerlifters' training differs from practices previously identified in the literature, with a higher prevalence of elastic resistance, particularly for those competing internationally, and a decreased use of strength training exercises at all levels. Norwegian powerlifters train frequently (5 or more times per week) and with submaximal loads.

Use of Mobile Applications to Collect Data in Sport, Health, and Exercise Science: A Narrative Review.

Peart, DJ, Balsalobre-Fernández, C, and Shaw, MP. Use of mobile applications to collect data in sport, health, and exercise science: A narrative review. J Strength Cond Res 33(4): 1167-1177, 2019-Mobile devices are ubiquitous in the population, and most have the capacity to download applications (apps). Some apps have been developed to collect physiological, kinanthropometric, and performance data; however, the validity and reliability of such data is often unknown. An appraisal of such apps is warranted, as mobile apps may offer an alternative method of data collection for practitioners and athletes with money, time, and space constraints. This article identifies and critically reviews the commercially available apps that have been tested in the scientific literature, finding evidence to support the measurement of the resting heart through photoplethysmography, heart rate variability, range of motion, barbell velocity, vertical jump, mechanical variables during running, and distances covered during walking, jogging, and running. The specific apps with evidence, along with reported measurement errors are summarized in the review. Although mobile apps may have the potential to collect data in the field, athletes and practitioners should exercise caution when implementing them into practice as not all apps have support from the literature, and the performance of a number of apps have only been tested on 1 device.

Coconut Water Does Not Improve Markers of Hydration During Sub-maximal Exercise and Performance in a Subsequent Time Trial Compared with Water Alone.

The purpose of this study was to compare markers of hydration during submaximal exercise and subsequent time trial performance when consuming water (PW) or coconut water (CW). There was also a secondary aim to assess the palatability of CW during exercise and voluntary intake during intense exercise. 10 males (age 27.9 ± 4.9 years, body mass 78.1 ± 10.1kg, average max minute power 300.2 ± 28.2W) completed 60-min of submaximal cycling followed by a 10-km time trial on two occasions. During these trials participants consumed either PW or CW in a randomized manner, drinking a 250 ml of the assigned drink between 10-15 min, 25-30 min and 40-45 min, and then drinking ad libitum from 55-min until the end of the time trial. Body mass and urine osmolality were recorded preexercise and then after 30-min, 60-min, and post time trial. Blood glucose, lactate, heart rate, rate of perceived exertion (RPE; 6-20) and ratings of thirst, sweetness, nausea, fullness and stomach upset (1 =very low/none, 5= very high) were recorded during each drink period. CW did not significantly improve time trial performance compared with PW (971.4 ± 50.5 and 966.6 ± 44.8 s respectively; p = .698) and there was also no significant differences between trials for any of the physiological variables measured. However there were subjective differences between the beverages for taste, resulting in a significantly reduced volume of voluntary intake in the CW trial (115 ± 95.41 ml and 208.7 ± 86.22 ml; p < .001).

Contextualizing gay-straight alliances: student, advisor, and structural factors related to positive youth development among members.

Gay-straight alliances (GSAs) may promote resilience. Yet, what GSA components predict well-being? Among 146 youth and advisors in 13 GSAs (58% lesbian, gay, bisexual, or questioning; 64% White; 38% received free/reduced-cost lunch), student (demographics, victimization, attendance frequency, leadership, support, control), advisor (years served, training, control), and contextual factors (overall support or advocacy, outside support for the GSA) that predicted purpose, mastery, and self-esteem were tested. In multilevel models, GSA support predicted all outcomes. Racial/ethnic minority youth reported greater well-being, yet lower support. Youth in GSAs whose advisors served longer and perceived more control and were in more supportive school contexts reported healthier outcomes. GSA advocacy also predicted purpose. Ethnographic notes elucidated complex associations and variability as to how GSAs operated.

Mobile applications for the sport and exercise nutritionist: a narrative review.

Mobile technology is widespread in modern society, and the applications (apps) that they run can serve various purposes. Features such as portability, ease of communication, storage, and relative low cost may make such technology attractive to practitioners in several fields. This review provides a critical narrative on the existing literature for apps relevant to the field of sport and exercise nutrition. Three main areas are discussed: (1) dietary analysis of athletes, (2) nutrition education for athletes, (3) estimating body composition. The key purpose of the review was to identify what literature is available, in what areas apps may have a benefit over traditional methods, and considerations that practitioners should make before they implement apps into their practice or recommend their use to coaches and athletes.

Stable transgenic C9orf72 zebrafish model key aspects of the ALS/FTD phenotype and reveal novel pathological features.

A hexanucleotide repeat expansion (HRE) within the chromosome 9 open reading frame 72 (C9orf72) gene is the most prevalent cause of amyotrophic lateral sclerosis/fronto-temporal dementia (ALS/FTD). Current evidence suggests HREs induce neurodegeneration through accumulation of RNA foci and/or dipeptide repeat proteins (DPR). C9orf72 patients are known to have transactive response DNA binding protein 43 kDa (TDP-43) proteinopathy, but whether there is further cross over between C9orf72 pathology and the pathology of other ALS sub-types has yet to be revealed.To address this, we generated and characterised two zebrafish lines expressing C9orf72 HREs. We also characterised pathology in human C9orf72-ALS cases. In addition, we utilised a reporter construct that expresses DsRed under the control of a heat shock promoter, to screen for potential therapeutic compounds.Both zebrafish lines showed accumulation of RNA foci and DPR. Our C9-ALS/FTD zebrafish model is the first to recapitulate the motor deficits, cognitive impairment, muscle atrophy, motor neuron loss and mortality in early adulthood observed in human C9orf72-ALS/FTD. Furthermore, we identified that in zebrafish, human cell lines and human post-mortem tissue, C9orf72 expansions activate the heat shock response (HSR). Additionally, HSR activation correlated with disease progression in our C9-ALS/FTD zebrafish model. Lastly, we identified that the compound ivermectin, as well as riluzole, reduced HSR activation in both C9-ALS/FTD and SOD1 zebrafish models.Thus, our C9-ALS/FTD zebrafish model is a stable transgenic model which recapitulates key features of human C9orf72-ALS/FTD, and represents a powerful drug-discovery tool.

Trypanothione biosynthesis in Leishmania major.

Trypanothione plays a crucial role in regulation of intracellular thiol redox balance and in defence against chemical and oxidant stress. Crithidia fasciculata requires two enzymes for the formation of trypanothione, namely glutathionylspermidine synthetase (GspS; EC 6.3.1.8) and a glutathionylspermidine-dependent trypanothione synthetase (TryS; EC 6.3.1.9), whereas Trypanosoma cruzi and Trypanosoma brucei use a broad-specificity trypanothione synthetase to make trypanothione from glutathione (GSH) and spermidine. Here, we report the identification of two genes in Leishmania major with similarity to previously identified GSPS and TRYS. GSPS is an apparent pseudogene containing two frame shift mutations and two stop codons, whereas TRYS is in a single open-reading frame. The enzyme encoded by TRYS was expressed and found to catalyse formation of trypanothione with GSH and either spermidine or glutathionylspermidine. When GSH is varied as substrate the enzyme displays substrate inhibition (apparent Km=89 microM, Ki(s)=1mM, k(cat)=2s-1). At a fixed GSH concentration, the enzyme obeys simple hyperbolic kinetics with the other substrates with apparent Km values for spermidine, glutathionylspermidine and MgATP of 940, 40 and 63 microM, respectively. Immunofluorescence and sub-cellular fractionation studies indicate that TryS localises to the cytosol of L. major promastigotes. Phylogenetic analysis of the GspS and TryS amino acid sequences suggest that in the trypanosomatids, TryS has evolved to replace the GspS/TryS complex in C. fasciculata. It also appears that the L. major still harbours a redundant GSPS pseudogene that may be currently in the process of being lost from its genome.

High-resolution crystal structure of Trypanosoma brucei UDP-galactose 4'-epimerase: a potential target for structure-based development of novel trypanocides.

The crystal structure of UDP-galactose 4'-epimerase from the protozoan parasite Trypanosoma brucei in complex with the cofactor NAD(+) and a fragment of the substrates, UDP, has been determined at 2.0 A resolution (1 A = 0.1 nm). This enzyme, recently proven to be essential for this pathogenic parasite, shares 33% sequence identity with the corresponding enzyme in the human host. Structural comparisons indicate that many of the protein-ligand interactions are conserved between the two enzymes. However, in the UDP-binding pocket there is a non-conservative substitution from Gly237 in the human enzyme to Cys266 in the T. brucei enzyme. Such a significant difference could be exploited by the structure-based design of selective inhibitors using the structure of the trypanosomatid enzyme as a template.