Acclimatization improves submaximal exercise economy at 5533 m.

We tested whether the better subjective exercise tolerance perceived by mountaineers after altitude acclimatization relates to enhanced exercise economy. Thirty-two mountaineers performed progressive bicycle exercise to exhaustion at 490 m and twice at 5533 m (days 6-7 and day 11), respectively, during an expedition to Mt. Muztagh Ata. Maximal work rate (W(max)) decreased from mean ± SD 356 ± 73 watts at 490 m to 191 ± 49 watts and 193 ± 45 watts at 5533 m, days 6-7 and day 11, respectively; corresponding maximal oxygen uptakes (VO2max ) were 50.7 ± 9.5, 26.3 ± 5.6, 24.7 ± 7.0 mL/min/kg (P = 0.0001 5533 m vs 490 m). On days 6-7 (5533 m), VO(2) at 75% W(max) (152 ± 37 watts) was 1.75 ± 0.45 L/min, oxygen saturation 68 ± 8%. On day 11 (5533 m), at the same submaximal work rate, VO(2) was lower (1.61 ± 0.47 L/min, P < 0.027) indicating improved net efficiency; oxygen saturation was higher (74 ± 7%, P < 0.0004) but ratios of VO(2) to work rate increments remained unchanged. On day 11, mountaineers climbed faster from 4497 m to 5533 m than on days 5-6 but perceived less effort (visual analog scale 50 ± 15 vs 57 ± 20, P = 0.006) and reduced symptoms of acute mountain sickness. We conclude that the better performance and subjective exercise tolerance after acclimatization were related to regression of acute mountain sickness and improved submaximal exercise economy because of lower metabolic demands for non-external work-performing functions.

Time-varying signal analysis to detect high-altitude periodic breathing in climbers ascending to extreme altitude.

This work investigates the performance of cardiorespiratory analysis detecting periodic breathing (PB) in chest wall recordings in mountaineers climbing to extreme altitude. The breathing patterns of 34 mountaineers were monitored unobtrusively by inductance plethysmography, ECG and pulse oximetry using a portable recorder during climbs at altitudes between 4497 and 7546 m on Mt. Muztagh Ata. The minute ventilation (VE) and heart rate (HR) signals were studied, to identify visually scored PB, applying time-varying spectral, coherence and entropy analysis. In 411 climbing periods, 30-120 min in duration, high values of mean power (MP(VE)) and slope (MSlope(VE)) of the modulation frequency band of VE, accurately identified PB, with an area under the ROC curve of 88 and 89%, respectively. Prolonged stay at altitude was associated with an increase in PB. During PB episodes, higher peak power of ventilatory (MP(VE)) and cardiac (MP(LF)(HR) ) oscillations and cardiorespiratory coherence (MP(LF)(Coher)), but reduced ventilation entropy (SampEn(VE)), was observed. Therefore, the characterization of cardiorespiratory dynamics by the analysis of VE and HR signals accurately identifies PB and effects of altitude acclimatization, providing promising tools for investigating physiologic effects of environmental exposures and diseases.

Periodic breathing during ascent to extreme altitude quantified by spectral analysis of the respiratory volume signal.

High altitude periodic breathing (PB) shares some common pathophysiologic aspects with sleep apnea, Cheyne-Stokes respiration and PB in heart failure patients. Methods that allow quantifying instabilities of respiratory control provide valuable insights in physiologic mechanisms and help to identify therapeutic targets. Under the hypothesis that high altitude PB appears even during physical activity and can be identified in comparison to visual analysis in conditions of low SNR, this study aims to identify PB by characterizing the respiratory pattern through the respiratory volume signal. A number of spectral parameters are extracted from the power spectral density (PSD) of the volume signal, derived from respiratory inductive plethysmography and evaluated through a linear discriminant analysis. A dataset of 34 healthy mountaineers ascending to Mt. Muztagh Ata, China (7,546 m) visually labeled as PB and non periodic breathing (nPB) is analyzed. All climbing periods within all the ascents are considered (total climbing periods: 371 nPB and 40 PB). The best crossvalidated result classifying PB and nPB is obtained with Pm (power of the modulation frequency band) and R (ratio between modulation and respiration power) with an accuracy of 80.3% and area under the receiver operating characteristic curve of 84.5%. Comparing the subjects from 1(st) and 2(nd) ascents (at the same altitudes but the latter more acclimatized) the effect of acclimatization is evaluated. SaO(2) and periodic breathing cycles significantly increased with acclimatization (p-value < 0.05). Higher Pm and higher respiratory frequencies are observed at lower SaO(2), through a significant negative correlation (p-value < 0.01). Higher Pm is observed at climbing periods visually labeled as PB with > 5 periodic breathing cycles through a significant positive correlation (p-value < 0.01). Our data demonstrate that quantification of the respiratory volume signal using spectral analysis is suitable to identify effects of hypobaric hypoxia on control of breathing.

Glomerular filtration rate estimates decrease during high altitude expedition but increase with Lake Louise acute mountain sickness scores.

AIM: Acute mountain sickness (AMS) can result in pulmonary and cerebral oedema with overperfusion of microvascular beds, elevated hydrostatic capillary pressure, capillary leakage and consequent oedema as pathogenetic mechanisms. Data on changes in glomerular filtration rate (GFR) at altitudes above 5000 m are very limited. METHODS: Thirty-four healthy mountaineers, who were randomized to two acclimatization protocols, undertook an expedition on Muztagh Ata Mountain (7549 m) in China. Tests were performed at five altitudes: Zurich pre-expedition (PE, 450 m), base camp (BC, 4497 m), Camp 1 (C1, 5533 m), Camp 2 (C2, 6265 m) and Camp 3 (C3, 6865 m). Cystatin C- and creatinine-based (Mayo Clinic quadratic equation) GFR estimates (eGFR) were assessed together with Lake Louise AMS score and other tests. RESULTS: eGFR significantly decreased from PE to BC (P < 0.01). However, when analysing at changes between BC and C3, only cystatin C-based estimates indicated a significant decrease in GFR (P = 0.02). There was a linear decrease in eGFR from PE to C3, with a decrease of approx. 3.1 mL min(-1) 1.73 m(-2) per 1000 m increase in altitude. No differences between eGFR of the two groups with different acclimatization protocols could be observed. There was a significant association between eGFR and haematocrit (P = 0.01), whereas no significant association between eGFR and aldosterone, renin and brain natriuretic peptide could be observed. Finally, higher AMS scores were significantly associated with higher eGFR (P = 0.01). CONCLUSIONS: Renal function declines when ascending from low to high altitude. Cystatin C-based eGFR decreases during ascent in high altitude expedition but increases with AMS scores. For individuals with eGFR <40 mL min(-1) 1.73 m(-2), caution may be necessary when planning trips to high altitude above 4500 m above sea level.