Effect of hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin in fluid and semi-solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application.

OBJECTIVE: The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrin (HP-ß-CD) in cosmetic submicron emulsions and submicron emulsion gels on physiological skin parameters during regular application in a clinical set-up. METHODS: Formulation morphology was investigated using cryo-transmission electron microscopy. Stability of the employed formulations was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy, measurement of pH and rheological properties. Effect on physiological skin parameters was evaluated during regular application over four weeks in a parallel group study (n = 15, healthy forearm skin) with a Corneometer, Sebumeter, skin-pH-Meter, Aquaflux and an Epsilon sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor urea and NMF levels. RESULTS: Both submicron emulsions and gels showed satisfying storage stability irrespective of cyclodextrin incorporation. No statistically significant effects on skin barrier function and any of the observed parameters were obtained, indicating good skin tolerability of all tested formulations. CONCLUSION: Results suggest good skin tolerability of the developed cosmetic submicron emulsions and gels with HP-ß-CD.

OBJECTIF: Le but de la présente étude était d'évaluer l'effet de l'hydroxypropyl-ß-cyclodextrine (HP-ß-CD) dans les émulsions cosmétiques submicroniques et les gels d'émulsion submicronique sur les paramètres physiologiques de la peau lors d'une application régulière dans une configuration clinique. MÉTHODES: La morphologie de la formulation a été étudiée en utilisant la microscopie électronique à transmission cryo. La stabilité des formulations employées a été déterminée par spectroscopie de corrélation de photons, mesure du pH et des propriétés rhéologiques. L'effet sur les paramètres physiologiques de la peau a été évalué lors d'une application régulière pendant quatre semaines dans une étude de groupe parallèle (n = 15, peau d'avant-bras saine) avec un cornéomètre, un sébumètre, un pH-mètre cutané, un Aquaflux et un capteur Epsilon. La spectroscopie Raman confocale a été utilisée pour surveiller les niveaux d'urée et de NMF. RÉSULTATS: Les émulsions et les gels submicroniques ont montré une stabilité de stockage satisfaisante indépendamment de l'incorporation de cyclodextrine. Aucun effet statistiquement significatif sur la fonction de barrière cutanée et aucun des paramètres observés n'a été obtenu, indiquant une bonne tolérance cutanée de toutes les formulations testées. CONCLUSION: Les résultats suggèrent une bonne tolérance cutanée des émulsions et des gels cosmétiques submicroniques développés avec HP-ß-CD.

The role of viscosity on skin penetration from cellulose ether-based hydrogels.

BACKGROUND: The rheological properties of dermal drug delivery systems are of importance when designing new formulations. Viscosity not only affects features such as spreadability and skin feel, but may also affect the skin penetration of incorporated actives. Data on the latter aspect are controversial. Our objective was to elucidate the relation between viscosity and drug delivery performance of different model hydrogels assuming that enhanced microviscosity might delay drug release and penetration. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Hydrogels covering a broad viscosity range were prepared by adding either HPMC or HEC as gelling agents in different concentrations. To investigate the ability of the gels to deliver a model drug into the skin, sulphadiazine sodium was incorporated and its in vitro skin penetration was monitored using tape stripping/HPLC analysis and non-invasive confocal Raman spectroscopy. RESULTS: The trends observed with the two different experimental setups were comparable. Drug penetration depths decreased slightly with increasing viscosity, suggesting slower drug release due to the increasingly dense gel networks. However, the total penetrated drug amounts were independent of the exact formulation viscosity. CONCLUSION: Drug penetration was largely unaffected by hydrogel viscosity. Moderately enhanced viscosity is advisable when designing cellulose ether hydrogels to allow for convenient application.

Effect of Physical and Chemical Hair Removal Methods on Skin Barrier Function in vitro: Consequences for a Hydrophilic Model Permeant.

BACKGROUND: Although very common in our society, the effect of hair removal on physiological skin parameters and on the ingress of applied chemicals has not been systematically investigated. Thus, as a first step, the aim of the present study was to elucidate the effect of hair removal through epilation (electric epilation, waxing) and depilation (dry and wet shaving, depilatory cream) on skin properties in vitro using the porcine ear model. METHODS: Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, measurement of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), visualization by capacitance-based contact imaging, confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS), diffusion cell studies and tape stripping experiments were employed. RESULTS: Increased TEWL and altered skin permittivity maps were observed. Decreased stratum corneum thickness was observed after waxing. Diffusion cell studies showed increased skin permeation especially in case of dry shaving, electric epilation and waxing. CONCLUSION: Considering CRS and diffusion cell data, a moderate if significant decrease in skin barrier function was found after hair removal by dry shaving (physical skin/material interaction) and epilation methods (plucking out the entire hair, for example, by electrical epilation and waxing). Subsequent experiments will include testing of different permeants covering a broad range of physicochemical properties in vitro and confirming our findings in vivo.

Monitoring the distribution of surfactants in the stratum corneum by combined ATR-FTIR and tape-stripping experiments.

Combined ATR-FTIR (attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared) spectroscopy and tape-stripping experiments in vitro on porcine ear skin were used to investigate the spatial distribution of different surfactants in the stratum corneum (SC). To reveal a possible connection between the size of the formed micelles and skin penetration, dynamic light-scattering measurements of the aqueous surfactant solutions were also taken. Compared to an alkyl polyglycoside and sucrose laurate, a deeper skin penetration of the anionic surfactants sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) und sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) could be related to a smaller size of the formed micelles. Beside the differences in spatial distribution, a link between the physical presence of anionic surfactants in the SC and a decrease of skin hydration was found. Furthermore, the incorporation of SDS and SLES into the SC, even after a brief, consumer-orientated washing procedure with commercially available hair shampoos, was confirmed.

Skin integrity testing and monitoring of in vitro tape stripping by capacitance-based sensor imaging.

BACKGROUND: Despite the frequent use of porcine ear skin for tape-stripping experiments, the peculiarities of this skin type have not been characterised in detail yet. Thus, different techniques were employed to investigate the skin surface structure of porcine ear skin and the changes in barrier function during in vitro tape stripping. To this end, the potential of capacitance-based skin hydration imaging as a means of skin quality control was investigated for the first time. METHODS: The porcine ear model was characterised before and during tape stripping using transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements, capacitance-based sensor imaging, attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) and optical light microscopy. RESULTS: The capacitance-based sensor was found to deliver precise information about the quality of the employed skin sites before and during tape stripping. The removal of stratum corneum proteins was highly reproducible even for different porcine ear types. The mean greyscale values showed an excellent linear correlation to the corresponding TEWL values and the respective penetration depth. Optical light microscopy confirmed the presence of canyons on the surface of porcine ear skin. CONCLUSION: The results suggest that the capacitance-based sensor is a suitable tool for skin integrity testing of porcine ear skin in vitro and for monitoring changes in skin barrier function.

Lecithin-based nanoemulsions of traditional herbal wound healing agents and their effect on human skin cells.

In previous studies, lecithin-based nanoemulsions (NEs) have been shown to be skin friendly drug carrier systems. Due to their nontoxic properties, NEs might also be suitable as wound healing agents. Hence, different O/W NEs based on lecithin Lipoid® S 75 and plant oils or medium chain triglycerides were produced and characterised. Two lipophilic natural wound healing agents, a betulin-enriched extract from birch bark (BET) and a purified spruce balm (PSB), were successfully incorporated and their effects on primary human skin cells were studied in vitro. MTT, BrdU and scratch assays uncovered the positive influence of the drug-loaded NEs on cell viability, proliferation and potential wound closure. Compared to control formulations, the NEs loaded with either BET or PSB led to higher cell viability rates of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Higher proliferative activity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts was observed after the treatment, which is a prerequisite for wound closure. Indeed, in scratch assays NEs with PSB and notably BET showed significantly ameliorated wound closure rates than the negative control (unloaded NEs) and the positive control (NEs with dexpanthenol). Our findings suggest that BET and PSB are outstanding wound healing drugs and their incorporation into lecithin-based NEs may represent a valid strategy for wound care.

Changes in Skin Barrier Function after Repeated Exposition to Phospholipid-Based Surfactants and Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate In Vivo and Corneocyte Surface Analysis by Atomic Force Microscopy.

(1) Background: The aim of the study was to evaluate the effect of pure lecithins in comparison to a conventional surfactant on skin in vivo. (2) Methods: Physiological skin parameters were evaluated at the beginning and the end of the study (day 1 and day 4) (n = 8, healthy forearm skin) with an Aquaflux®, skin-pH-Meter, Corneometer® and an Epsilon® sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor natural moisturizing factor, urea and water content of the participants' skin. Tape strips of treated skin sites were taken and the collected corneocytes were subjected to atomic force microscopy. Circular nano objects were counted, and dermal texture indices were determined. (3) Results: Transepidermal water loss was increased, and skin hydration was decreased after treatment with SDS and LPC80. Natural moisturizing factor and urea concentrations within the outermost 10 µm of the stratum corneum were lower than after treatment with S75 or water. Dermal texture indices of skin treated with SDS were higher than skin treated with water (control). (4) Conclusions: Results suggest very good (S75) or good (LPC80) skin-tolerability of lecithin-based surfactants in comparison to SDS and encourage further investigation.

Effects of lecithin-based nanoemulsions on skin: Short-time cytotoxicity MTT and BrdU studies, skin penetration of surfactants and additives and the delivery of curcumin.

Surfactants are important ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations, as in creams, shampoos or shower gels. As conventional emulsifiers such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) have fallen into disrepute due to their skin irritation potential, the naturally occurring lecithins are being investigated as a potential alternative. Thus, lecithin-based nanoemulsions with and without the drug curcumin, known for its wound healing properties, were produced and characterised in terms of their particle size, polydispersity index (PDI) and zeta potential and compared to SDS-based formulations. In vitro toxicity of the produced blank nanoemulsions was assessed with primary human keratinocytes and fibroblasts using two different cell viability assays (BrdU and EZ4U). Further, we investigated the penetration profiles of the deployed surfactants and oil components using combined ATR-FTIR/tape stripping experiments and confirmed the ability of the lecithin-based nanoemulsions to deliver curcumin into the stratum corneum in tape stripping-UV/Vis experiments. All manufactured nanoemulsions showed droplet sizes under 250 nm with satisfying PDI and zeta potential values. Viability assays with human skin cells clearly indicated that lecithin-based nanoemulsions were superior to SDS-based formulations. ATR-FTIR tests showed that lecithin and oil components remained in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum, suggesting a low risk for skin irritation. Ex vivo tape stripping experiments revealed that the kind of oil used in the nanoemulsion seemed to influence the depth of curcumin penetration into the stratum corneum.

Chitosan-glycolic acid: a possible matrix for progesterone delivery into skin.

BACKGROUND: Chitosan-EDTA is an interesting matrix for dermal delivery; however, the adhesiveness is too small. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to investigate chitosan-glycolic acid as possible dermal matrix for progesterone in comparison to chitosan-EDTA and carrageenan. METHOD: After preparation of the chitosan-glycolic acid salt and characterization by NMR and FTIR, tensile studies using porcine skin and rheology measurements as well as standard diffusion experiments using dermatomed porcine skin were performed. RESULTS: Results showed an improved skin adhesiveness of chitosan-glycolic acid and increased viscosity. Skin diffusion studies indicated the highest cumulative permeation of progesterone after 48 hours from chitosan-glycolic acid followed by carrageenan and chitosan-EDTA. A possible explanation might be a longer residence time on skin caused by the higher adhesiveness and with it higher progesterone skin permeation. CONCLUSION: Chitosan-glycolic acid can be recommended as a suitable polymer for hydrogels and an adhesive matrix for a transdermal application of progesterone exhibiting excellent skin adhesiveness and permeation properties.

Hair removal and bioavailability of chemicals: Effect of physicochemical properties of drugs and surfactants on skin permeation ex vivo.

Cosmetic hair removal procedures are everyday routines in our society. However, it is unclear if such routines lead to increased uptake of applied substances such as drugs or formulation compounds, potentially resulting in skin irritation or sensitization. The aim of this study was to elucidate the effect of common depilation and epilation methods on skin penetration of two surfactants and four model drugs of different physicochemical properties using the porcine ear model. It should be elucidated whether the substances' skin penetration behavior would be affected by hair removal procedures and if potential effects would be related to their polarity. Confocal Raman spectroscopy revealed no effect of hair removal on total penetration depths of SDS and sulfathiazole. Significantly higher relative penetrated amounts within 0-6 µm of stratum corneum depth were found for SDS after dry shaving, depilatory cream and waxing and for sulfathiazole after all depilation methods and partly after epilation. ATR-FTIR spectroscopy revealed no effect of hair removal on the penetration depth of lecithin LPC80, but higher relative amounts at the skin surface after wet shaving and electric epilation. Diffusion cell experiments using a lecithin-based microemulsion as carrier system for fluconazole, fludrocortisone acetate and flufenamic acid showed higher cumulative amounts, higher drug fluxes and shorter lag times for the more lipophilic drugs for some of the methods, but only shorter lag times in some cases for fluconazole. In summary, the observed effects appeared to depend on drug polarity and experimental setup.

Topical application of highly concentrated water-in-oil emulsions: Physiological skin parameters and skin penetration in vivo - A pilot study.

Important aspects in the development of new dermal drug delivery systems are the formulations' physicochemical properties and stability. Moreover, their influence on skin physiology and their penetration performance in vivo are of crucial interest. We have recently developed novel concentrated water-in-oil emulsions based on a non-ionic silicone surfactant; the present study deals with the effect of these formulations on physiological skin parameters of healthy volunteers after repeated application. Variations in skin condition and barrier integrity were investigated using classical biophysical and spectroscopic techniques. After four weeks of continuous treatment, no signs of skin irritation could be observed. Both tested emulsions had a positive effect on skin properties despite their relatively high water content and low lipid content. In vivo tape stripping studies revealed penetrated amounts of the incorporated model drug fluorescein sodium of almost 50% of the applied dose, with a superior performance of emulsions with isopropyl myristate when compared to liquid paraffin. In summary, our study confirmed the suitability of the developed W/O emulsions for pharmaceutic and cosmetic applications.

Cytotoxicity of lecithin-based nanoemulsions on human skin cells and ex vivo skin permeation: Comparison to conventional surfactant types.

As constituents of cellular membranes, lecithins feature high biocompatibility and great emulsifying properties due to their amphiphilicity. Additionally, there are expectations that these naturally occurring emulsifying agents can replace other skin damaging emulsifiers like sodium dodecyl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate. However, cytotoxicity data of lecithin-based formulations on primary human skin cells are scarce. Thus, we developed nanoemulsions with different kinds of surfactants (amphoteric, anionic and non-ionic), studied the skin permeation of a model drug from this formulations employing Franz-type diffusion cells and monitored their cytotoxicity potential on primary human keratinocytes and fibroblasts using a cell proliferation assay. The skin diffusion studies demonstrated that the amphoteric lecithin-based emulsifiers were superior to non-ionic surfactants in terms of skin permeation, but inferior to anionic emulsifiers. Further, we found that the nanoemulsions containing the amphoteric lecithins as emulsifying agents lead to significantly higher viability rates of both epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts than the investigated anionic and non-ionic surfactants. This renders them a promising alternative to conventional emulsifiers used in daily products.

The advantage of polymer addition to a non-ionic oil in water microemulsion for the dermal delivery of progesterone.

The influence of progesterone on the physicochemical behaviour of the o/w microemulsion consisting of the non-ionic surfactant polyoxyethylene-10-dodecyl ether, tributyrin and water was investigated. Thereby no significant influence could be detected in terms of droplet size, zeta potential, conductivity and pH by progesterone. However the chemical stability of progesterone was insufficient during the storage of 6 months. Therefore, two different polymeric agents, named silicon dioxide and polymeric emulsifier, were added to the progesterone containing microemulsions. These polymers increased the chemical stability of progesterone significantly. Moreover the polymeric additives improved the skin permeation 1.24- and 1.63-fold and decreased the skin retention in relation to the pure microemulsion. The polymer-stabilized progesterone microemulsions are interesting vehicles for skin application of progesterone.

Skin-compatible lecithin drug delivery systems for fluconazole: effect of phosphatidylethanolamine and oleic acid on skin permeation.

The purpose of the present study was to evaluate skin-compatible drug delivery systems for fluconazole. Pseudoternary phase diagrams were constructed, composed of different soybean lecithins/oil/isopropanol and water. The role of the various lecithin compositions was expressed in the different resulting isotropic areas. Based on these phase diagrams, two systems were chosen as drug delivery systems for fluconazole. The influence of phosphatidylethanolamine and of the oil component on the skin permeation of fluconazole was investigated. The more phosphatidylethanolamine, the greater was the fluconazole skin permeation, independent of the hydrophilicity of the system. The influence of oleic acid and isopropylmyristate as the oil component was compared and a greater penetration enhancing effect was found for the microemulsion containing oleic acid.

Simultaneous penetration monitoring of oil component and active drug from fluorinated nanoemulsions.

In the field of dermal drug delivery, determining the penetration depth of actives is a standard procedure for the development of novel formulations. Regarding the vehicle components, respective penetration studies are rather scarce due to their often challenging analytics. However, an understanding of the interactions between drugs and additives during skin penetrating could help to develop promising drug delivery systems. Thus, the objective of the present study was to simultaneously monitor the skin penetration of the incorporated model drug diclofenac sodium and the semifluorinated oil perfluorohexyloctane (F6H8) from newly developed nanoemulsions. In vitro tape stripping studies were conducted and the tapes were analysed for their content of drug and additive in parallel by HPLC and 19F NMR. The penetration depth and total recovered amount of both substances of interest were successfully determined on each tape strip. The vehicle oil compound F6H8 itself showed a very small skin penetration, while the penetration of diclofenac sodium was consistently about 9- to 10-fold higher. Higher amounts of the oil content led to higher skin penetration of diclofenac sodium and slightly increased oil penetration; this effect might be explained by the increasing occlusion effect caused by increasing amounts of fluorinated oil.

NLC versus nanoemulsions: Effect on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application and impact on drug penetration.

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) and nano-sized emulsions based on monoacyl-phosphatidylcholine (MAPL) were tested for their effect on physiological skin parameters in vivo during daily application over four weeks. The influence of the basic formulations on transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, sebum content and pH was determined once per week and after a recovery period of three weeks. In addition, confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to evaluate natural moisturising factor and urea content. The results showed that the tested NLC systems with different MAPL content led to increased TEWL and decreased stratum corneum hydration, NMF and urea content. This effect was more pronounced for NLC with higher MAPL content and less pronounced for corresponding emulsions with increased oil phase volume. The observed effects indicate temporarily impaired barrier function; however, all effects were reversible after the treatment was finished. Additional tape stripping penetration experiments were performed on intact human forearm skin in vivo using the model substance curcumin. Higher total penetrated curcumin amounts were found for NLC-based formulations when compared to the emulsion. Comparative in vitro tape stripping data on porcine ear skin confirmed the trends observed in vivo. In summary, these findings suggest that the effect of the developed MAPL-based NLC and nano-sized emulsion on skin barrier function differs mildly in a one-time application setup, but may increase strongly during daily application over a longer treatment period.

Penetration monitoring of drugs and additives by ATR-FTIR spectroscopy/tape stripping and confocal Raman spectroscopy - A comparative study.

Vibrational spectroscopy is a useful tool for analysis of skin properties and to confirm the penetration of drugs and other formulation compounds into the skin. In particular, attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) have been optimised for skin analysis. Despite an impressive amount of data on these techniques, a comparative methodological assessment for skin penetration monitoring of model substances is still amiss. Thus, in vitro skin penetration studies were conducted in parallel using the same porcine material and four model substances, namely sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), sulfathiazole sodium (STZ) and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). ATR-FTIR spectroscopy in combination with tape stripping and CRS were employed to evaluate the skin penetration of the applied substances. In addition, the skin hydration status or change in skin hydration after application was investigated. The results show that both methods provide valuable information on the skin penetration potential of applied substances. The penetration profiles determined by CRS or ATR-FTIR/tape stripping were comparable for all substances; a slow decrease in relative substance concentration was visible from the skin surface inwards within the stratum corneum (SC). In general, deeper penetration into the SC was observed with CRS, which may be related to the depth resolution of the employed device. However, when related to the respective total SC thickness of each experiment, the penetration depths determined by parallel CRS and ATR-FTIR analysis were in good agreement for all model substances. The observed order of the penetration depth was DMSO > SDS > SLES > STZ with both techniques. A decrease of the relative concentration to 10% of the maximum value was found approximately between 34 and 89% of total SC thickness. Summarising these findings, advantages and drawbacks of the two techniques for in vitro skin penetration studies are discussed.

The influence of selected steroid hormones on the physicochemical behaviour of DPPC liposomes.

The physicochemical properties of DPPC (1,2-dipalmitoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine) liposomes used for topical application are pharmaceutically important. Therefore the aim of our study was to establish rapid and efficient methods for the exact characterisation of the physicochemical properties of extruded DPPC liposomes containing low concentration (0.5%, w/w) of different, therapeutically interesting steroid hormones, named 17-beta-estradiol, cpa (cyproterone acetate) and finasteride. In a first step it could be shown that all drugs influenced the liposome size and changed the zeta potential compared to the placebo formulations. Our further analytical strategy was to use micro-calorimetry and ATR-FTIR (Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy), two powerful and non-destructive methods to confirm the drug incorporation into the liposomes by proving interactions between the phospholipids and the steroids. Thereby it was even possible to localize the location of interaction. The characteristic phase transition temperatures of the phospholipid were decreased by the hormones which was detected by micro-DSC (differential scanning calorimetry). The results of the ATR-FTIR measurements indicated shifts of the specific lipid peaks, the C=O stretching bands and PO(2)(-) antisymmetric double stretching band, in the gel and liquid crystalline phase. A polar as well as a non-polar interaction could be proven. It could be shown that the investigated steroid hormones changed the physical properties of the phospholipid bilayers.

Effect of selected fluorinated drugs in a "ringing" gel on rheological behaviour and skin permeation.

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the influence of different drugs exhibiting different solubility on the viscoelastic properties and on the skin diffusion profile of a ringing gel. In a preliminary rheology study with the placebo gel predominating elastic properties were confirmed and a temperature influence was indicated. Fluconazole, fludrocortisone-acetate, flumethasone-pivalate, flutamide and flufenamic-acid each 1% (w/w) were incorporated into the preparation and oscillatory measurements were performed at temperatures of 25, 28, 32 and 37 degrees C. In all drug containing formulations a high elastic G' value predominated the viscous G'' value. The highest G' value could be obtained with the incorporated flumethasone-pivalate. Additionally in almost all cases the G' values decreased with increasing temperature compared to the placebo gel. Additionally in vitro standard diffusion experiments using Franz-type cells and porcine skin were performed. Following rank order of the cumulative drug release after 48 h was obtained: fluconazole>flufenamic-acid>flumethasone-pivalate>flutamide>fludrocortisone-acetate. Furthermore an excellent chemical stability of all incorporated drugs was confirmed over 10 weeks.