Whey Protein Isolate as a Substrate to Design Calendula officinalis Flower Extract Controlled-Release Materials.

The use of natural active substances and the development of new formulations are promising directions in the cosmetic and pharmacy industries. The primary purpose of this research was the production of microparticles based on whey protein isolate (WPI) and calcium alginate (ALG) containing Calendula officinalis flower extract and their incorporation into films composed of gelatin, WPI, and glycerol. Both swollen and dry microparticles were studied by optical microscopy and their sizes were measured. Water absorption by the microparticles, their loading capacity, and the release profile of flower extract were also characterized. The films were analyzed by mechanical tests (Young's modulus, tensile strength, elongation at break), swelling capacity, contact angle, and moisture content measurements. The presented data showed that the active ingredient was successfully enclosed in spherical microparticles and completely released after 75 min of incubation at 37 °C. The incorporation of the microparticles into polymer films caused a decrease in stiffness and tensile strength, simultaneously increasing the ductility of the samples. Moreover, the films containing microparticles displayed higher swelling ability and moisture content compared to those without them. Hence, the materials prepared in this study with Calendula officinalis flower extract encapsulated into polymeric microspheres can be a starting point for the development of new products intended for skin application; advantages include protection of the extract against external factors and a controlled release profile.

Lyophilized Emulsions in the Form of 3D Porous Matrices as a Novel Material for Topical Application.

Researchers are constantly searching for innovations that can be applied to the cosmetic industry. Production of porous materials stored in a lyophilized form and swollen directly before use may be beneficial considering their facilitated packaging, transport and storage. In this study, we propose porous materials based on sodium alginate, gelatin, glycerol and lipids (cottonseed oil and beeswax) obtained by freeze-drying and cross-linking. Material composition with the most promising properties was modified by the addition of PLA microparticles with Calendula officinalis flower extract. The structure and properties of obtained porous materials were analyzed. ATR-FTIR, mechanical properties, residual moisture content, porosity and density were assessed, as well as swelling properties and degradation after their cross-linking. The loading capacity and in vitro release of Calendula officinalis flower extract were performed for samples with incorporated PLA microparticles containing plant extract. The modification of the composition and fabrication method of materials significantly influenced their physicochemical properties. The selected plant extract was successfully incorporated into polymeric microparticles that were subsequently added into developed materials. Prepared materials may be considered during designing new cosmetic formulations.

Design of Sodium Alginate/Gelatin-Based Emulsion Film Fused with Polylactide Microparticles Charged with Plant Extract.

This study aimed at designing emulsion films based on sodium alginate, gelatin, and glycerol, and their modification by the addition of lipids (cottonseed oil and beeswax). Film composition with the most promising properties was further modified by the incorporation of polylactide (PLA) microparticles with Calendula officinalis flower extract. PLA microspheres were obtained by the emulsion/solvent evaporation method. The size distribution of oily particles in emulsions was investigated. Mechanical properties, moisture content, UV-Vis spectra, and the color of films were analyzed, while biophysical skin parameters were assessed after their application to the skin. Moreover, the contact angles were measured, and the surface free energy of polymeric films was determined. An investigation of the amount of Calendula officinalis flower extract which can be incorporated into PLA microparticles was performed. The modification of the composition of films significantly influenced their physicochemical properties. The selected active ingredient in the form of plant extract was successfully incorporated into polymeric microparticles that were further added into the developed emulsion film. The condition of the skin after the application of obtained emulsion films improved. The prepared materials, especially containing microparticles with plant extract, can be considered for designing new cosmetic forms, such as cosmetic masks, as well as new topical formulations for pharmaceutical delivery.

Modification of Collagen/Gelatin/Hydroxyethyl Cellulose-Based Materials by Addition of Herbal Extract-Loaded Microspheres Made from Gellan Gum and Xanthan Gum.

Because consumers are nowadays focused on their health and appearance, natural ingredients and their novel delivery systems are one of the most developing fields of pharmacy, medicine, and cosmetics. The main goal of this study was to design, prepare, and characterize composite materials obtained by incorporation of microspheres into the porous polymer materials consisting of collagen, gelatin, and hydroxyethyl cellulose. Microspheres, based on gellan gum and xanthan gum with encapsulated Calendula officinalis flower extract, were produced by two methods: extrusion and emulsification. The release profile of the extract from both types of microspheres was compared. Then, obtained microparticles were incorporated into polymeric materials with a porous structure. This modification had an influence on porosity, density, swelling properties, mechanical properties, and stability of materials. Besides, in vitro tests were performed using mouse fibroblasts. Cell viability was assessed with the MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) assay. The obtained materials, especially with microspheres prepared by emulsion method, can be potentially helpful when designing cosmetic forms because they were made from safely for skin ingredients used in this industry and the herbal extract was successfully encapsulated into microparticles.