L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits.

OBJECTIVE: Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing. METHODS: In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles. RESULTS: In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation. CONCLUSION: L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.

OBJECTIF: La peau du visage est sujet à des changements majeurs structuraux et fonctionnels dus à des facteurs intrinsèques et extrinsèques. Dans cette étude, nous montrons que l'acide aminé non-protéinogène L-4-thiazolylalanine (L4, Protinol) est une alternative intéressante pour une application topique. MÉTHODES: Des modèles 3D de peaux ont été utilisés pour mesurer les changements d'expressions géniques et protéiques de marqueurs clés du derme à partir d'échantillons traités avec L4 comparés à une condition contrôle. In vivo, après un traitement L4, le renouvellement cutané a été mesuré chez les volontaires et comparé à un traitement au rétinol. Des biopsies de peaux (n = 30) traitées soit à L4 soit au rétinol ont été isolées afin d'évaluer les changements au niveau du derme et de l'épiderme. Pour finir, une étude clinique (n = 28) a été menée pour évaluer l'efficacité de L4 par rapport à une formulation de base en utilisant différents paramètres de vieillissement au sein d'une population de femmes de 46 à 66 ans présentant des rides légères à modérées. RÉSULTATS: Les études in vitro sur tissues 3D ont montré des changements dans la matrice du derme avec une augmentation de la production d'acide hyaluronique et de procollagène I et une diminution d'expression de gènes pro-inflammatoires. Les études menées in vivo sur biopsies ont démontré que L4 et rétinol augmentaient indépendamment tous deux significativement l'épaisseur de l'épiderme et le remodelage du collagène par rapport à leur base seule. Pour finir, une peau plus ferme et plus lisse a été mesurée cliniquement après 28 jours de traitement L4 par rapport au véhicule et cela sans effets indésirables tels que rougeur et irritation. CONCLUSION: L4 est un ingrédient, innovant et multifonctionnel. Il offre une sérieuse alternative aux technologies actuellement disponibles dans les traitements contre le vieillissement de la peau ou le photodommage.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy.

OBJECTIVE: Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin. METHOD: In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers. RESULTS: We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue. CONCLUSION: In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

OBJECTIF: Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ¼. Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d'Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l'échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu'une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux. CONCLUSION: En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence.

OBJECTIVE: As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI-predicted anti-ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing. METHODS: A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28-day pilot study. RESULTS: In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi-functional anti-ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti-wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential. CONCLUSION: pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI-predicted and experimentally validated anti-ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients.

OBJECTIF: À mesure que la peau vieillit, une altération de la synthèse des protéines de la matrice extracellulaire (ECM) et une action accrue des enzymes dégradantes se manifestent par une atrophie, des rides et un laxisme. Il existe de plus en plus de preuves du rôle fonctionnel des peptides exogènes dans de nombreux domaines, y compris pour compenser les effets du vieillissement cutané. Ici, en utilisant une approche d'intelligence artificielle (AI), nous avons identifié le peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), un peptide naturel non modifié avec des propriétés de stimulation ECM. Les propriétés anti-âge prédites par l'IA de pep_RTE62G ont ensuite été validées par des tests cliniques in vitro, ex vivo et de validation de principe. LES MÉTHODES: Une approche d'apprentissage en profondeur a été appliquée pour déverrouiller pep_RTE62G à partir d'une source végétale, Pisum sativum (pois). Des tests de culture cellulaire de fibroblastes dermiques humains (HDF) et de kératinocytes (HaCaTs) ont ensuite été utilisés pour évaluer l'effet in vitro de pep_RTE62G. Des activités distinctes telles que la prolifération cellulaire et les propriétés de production de protéines ECM ont été déterminées par des tests ELISA. La migration cellulaire a été évaluée à l'aide d'un test de cicatrisation des plaies, tandis que la synthèse des protéines ECM et l'expression des gènes ont été analysées, respectivement, par microscopie à immunofluorescence et PCR. L'immunohistochimie des explants de peau humaine a été utilisée pour approfondir l'induction des protéines ECM par pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Enfin, l'effet clinique de pep_RTE626 a été évalué dans une étude pilote de 28 jours de validation de principe. RÉSULTATS: Les tests in vitro ont confirmé que pep_RTE62G est un ingrédient anti-âge multifonctionnel efficace. Dans HaCaTs, le traitement pep_RTE62G augmente de manière significative à la fois la prolifération et la migration cellulaire. De même, dans les HDF, pep_RTE62G a induit de manière cohérente la néosynthèse de la protéine ECM élastine et collagène, effets qui sont maintenus dans les explants de peau humaine. Enfin, dans notre étude clinique de preuve de concept, l'application de pep_RTE626 sur 28 jours a démontré un potentiel stimulant anti-rides et collagène. CONCLUSION: pep_RTE62G représente un peptide naturel, non modifié avec des propriétés anti-âge prédites par l'IA et validées expérimentalement. Nos résultats confirment l'utilité de l'IA dans la découverte de nouveaux ingrédients topiques fonctionnels.

Structure-function relationship between a natural cosmetic active ingredient and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4.

OBJECTIVE: Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. METHODS: For this purpose, natural molecules were extracted from Cocos nucifera flour. Then, efficacy of this natural extract was evaluated on keratinocyte migration in vitro. Molecules of the Cocos nucifera flour extract were then identified by UPLC-MS/MS. Molecular docking was finally conducted to investigate the potential interaction between identified molecules and the olfactory receptor OR2AT4. RESULTS: The Cocos nucifera flour extract significantly increased keratinocyte migration and results demonstrated that this effect was mediated by the olfactory receptor OR2AT4. Metabolomic analysis revealed two molecules, nonioside D and butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, as significantly present in the Cocos nucifera flour extract compared to both Cocos nucifera oil and water. Finally, molecular docking revealed that butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside could interact with the extracellular domain 2 of the OR2AT4. CONCLUSION: This study highlighted for the first time a natural molecule, extracted from Cocos nucifera flour, able to interact with the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 and promote the keratinocyte migration and thus the epithelialization.

OBJECTIF: Bien que le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4 a été décrit comme étant impliqué dans le renouvellement de l'épiderme, il n'y a à ce jour aucune donnée concernant un ingrédient actif cosmétique activant ce récepteur. Le but de cette étude est donc d'identifier une molécule naturelle capable de se fixer au récepteur OR2AT4 afin de stimuler la migration des kératinocytes. METHODE: L'efficacité de cet extrait naturel sur la migration des kératinocytes in vitro a ensuite été évaluée. Les molécules présentes dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera ont ensuite été identifées par UPLC-MS/MS. Enfin, des expérimentations de docking moléculaire ont été réalisées afin d'identifier une potentielle interaction entre les molécules précédemment identifiées et le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. RESULTATS: L'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera augmente significativement la migration des kératinocytes via l'activation du récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. Les analyses métabolomiques ont révélées deux molécules, le nonioside D et le butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, comme étant significativement présentes dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera en comparaison avec l'huile et l'eau de coco. Enfin, le docking moléculaire révèle que le butyl 4-O-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl-beta-D-glucopyranoside, présent dans l'extrait de farine de Cocos nucifera peut interagir avec le domaine extracellulaire 2 du récepteur olfactif OR2AT4. CONCLUSION: Cette étude a identifié pour la première fois une molécule naturelle, extraite de la farine de Cocos nucifera, capable d'interagir avec le récepteur olfactif OR2AT4, afin de stimuler la migration kératinocytaire et ainsi favoriser le processus de ré-épithélialisation.

Exploring some characteristics (density, anagen ratio, growth rate) of human body hairs. Variations with skin sites, gender and ethnics.

OBJECTIVE: To determine, in vivo, the density, growth rate and percentage of anagen phase follicles of body hairs present on five different skin sites (axilla, cheek, chin, leg, upper-lip) of women and men from four different ethnics (African, Caucasian, Chinese, North African). The same characteristics of terminal hairs from the nape of all subjects were recorded as references. METHODS: The photo-trichogram technique was used on all skin sites (of different sizes) at variable times (2 or 3 days) post shaving of small skin areas (a few cm2 ). Digital photographs were then analysed through a dedicated software that allows to record the density of body hairs (N cm-2 ), the % of growing hairs (Anagen phase) and their growth rates (in µm day-1 ). RESULTS: The densities of terminal hairs (on nape) found on all subjects were similar to those previously observed on much larger populations. The same ranking of a decreased density of body hairs in the five skin sites was observed in men, irrespective with ethnics. Body hairs seem homogeneously distributed among ethnics on armpit and leg with slight gender-related differences. In men, a significantly higher anagen phase percentage (> 85%) is found on terminal hairs, cheek and upper-lip region in Caucasians and North Africans, as compared to African and Chinese men. The technique used cannot precisely determine the very thin hairs present on the faces of all women. The anagen phase percentage appears higher in all women on leg and armpit. Hair body growth rates ranged from 180 to 485 µm day-1 and were found, on axilla, close to those of terminal hairs. CONCLUSION: The abundance of body hairs, in the studied skin sites, appears similar, irrespective with ethnic groups, whereas their functional characteristics (anagen ratio, growth rate) are more driven by individual/gender influences. RÉSUMÉ: Objectif Déterminer, in vivo, la densité, la vitesse de pousse et le pourcentage de follicules en phase anagènes des poils corporels présents sur 5 sites cutanés différents (l'aisselle, la joue, le menton, la jambe, la lèvre supérieure) de femmes et d'hommes issus de 4 groupes ethniques différents (Africain, Caucasien, Chinois, Nord-africain). Ces mêmes caractéristiques ont été enregistrées pour les cheveux (poils terminaux) en nuque de tous les sujets en tant que références. Méthodes la technique du photo-trichogramme a été utilisée sur tous les sites cutanés (de tailles différentes) après un temps variable (2 ou 3 jours) suivant le rasage de petites zones cutanées (quelques cm-2 ). Les photographies numériques ont été alors analysées par un logiciel spécifique qui permet d'enregistrer la densité de poils corporels (N.cm-2 ), le pourcentage de poils en phase de croissance (la phase Anagène) et leur vitesse de pousse (en µm/jour). Résultats la densité de cheveux (en nuque) trouvée sur tous les sujets était semblable à celle précédemment observée sur des populations beaucoup plus larges. On retrouve chez les hommes le même classement entre les 5 sites cutanés en termes de densité de poils corporels, indépendamment du groupe ethnique étudié. Les poils corporels semblent distribués de manière homogène parmi les membres d'un groupe ethnique sur l'aisselle et la jambe avec des légères différences liées au genre. Chez les hommes, les Caucasiens et les Nord-Africains présentent un pourcentage de poils terminaux en phase anagène significativement plus élevé (>85%) sur la joue et la région de la lèvre supérieure que les hommes Africains et Chinois. La technique utilisée ne permet pas précisément de déterminer la présence de poils très minces sur les visages des femmes. Le pourcentage de poils en phase anagène paraît plus élevé chez les femmes sur la jambe et l'aisselle. Les vitesses de pousse des poils corporels s'étendent de 180 à 485 µm/jours et se trouvent, sur les aisselles, proches de celles des cheveux. Conclusion la densité de poils corporels, dans les sites cutanés étudiés, présente une variabilité de sites indépendante du groupe ethnique considéré, tandis que leurs caractéristiques fonctionnelles (le ratio de poils en phase anagène, la vitesse de pousse) sont plus dirigées par des influences d'individu/genre.

A review of shampoo surfactant technology: consumer benefits, raw materials and recent developments.

Surfactants form the core of all shampoo formulations, and contribute to a wide range of different benefits, including cleansing, foaming, rheology control, skin mildness and the deposition of benefit agents to the hair and scalp. The purpose of this review was to assist the design of effective, modern, shampoo surfactant technologies. The mechanisms through which surfactants help deliver their effects are presented, along with the appraisal techniques through which surfactant options can be tested and screened for product development. The steps that should be taken to select the most appropriate blend of surfactants are described, and useful information on the most widely used surfactants is provided. The review concludes with an examination of recent developments in 'greener' surfactants, 'sulphate-free' technologies and structured liquid phases for novel sensory properties and for suspending benefit agents.

Visualization of zinc pyrithione particles deposited on the scalp from a shampoo by tape-strip sampling and scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy measurement.

OBJECTIVE: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes and morphologies have different deposition behaviours, the measurement of the actual ZnPT deposition is critical to understand the AD performance delivered by different ZnPT shampoos. The aim of this study is to develop a robust and reliable method for visualizing the particle size and morphology of ZnPT deposited on the scalp from AD shampoos. METHODS: Hair was washed with a commercially available AD shampoo containing ZnPT and zinc carbonate (ZnCO3 ). Tape strips were applied to collect the deposited particles from the scalp after AD shampoo application and rinse-off. The scalp tape strip samples were subjected to scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM/EDX) measurement. The morphology of the ZnPT particles was visualized by SEM imaging and identification of ZnPT particles was confirmed by EDX analysis. RESULTS: For the commercial shampoo studied it was observed that two zinc-containing particulates with different morphologies and composition remained on the scalp after shampoo application and rinse-off. As indicated by the EDX spectra, the ZnPT particles deposited onto the scalp surface had polygonal crystal structures. ZnCO3 was also deposited onto the scalp surface. This material was mainly present as aggregated particulates. CONCLUSION: An ex vivo method that combines tape strip sampling and SEM/EDX has been developed for measuring and visualizing the particle size, morphology and composition of ZnPT deposited on the scalp from AD shampoos. This ex vivo measurement method provides higher imaging resolution and more chemical specificity than reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). To the best of our knowledge, this is the first time that ZnPT particles were distinguishable from other zinc particles on the scalp. Moreover, the new method allows the microstructures of both ZnPT and other zinc particles on the scalp to be imaged.

Climbazole boosts activity of retinoids in skin.

OBJECTIVE: To explore whether climbazole enhances retinoid-associated biological activities in vitro and in vivo. METHODS: Primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated from six to 48 h with either retinoids (retinol, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate) alone or in combination with climbazole, and then assessed for cellular retinoic acid-binding protein 2 (CRABP2) mRNA expression by RT-qPCR. Next, skin equivalent (SE) cultures were topically treated with retinol or retinyl propionate, with or without climbazole, and then measured for biological changes in retinoid biomarkers. Lastly, an IRB-approved clinical study was conducted on the outer forearm of 16 subjects to ascertain the effects of low (0.02%) or high (0.1%) levels of retinol, retinyl propionate (0.5%), climbazole (0.5%) or a combination of retinol (0.02%)/climbazole (0.5%). Indicators of retinoid activities were measured after 3 weeks. RESULTS: Treatment of HDFs with retinol or retinyl propionate was unaffected by climbazole but alone, resulted in a significantly (P < 0.01) higher sustained CRABP2 mRNA expression than those treated with retinyl palmitate or vehicle control. In SEs, climbazole combined with either retinol or retinyl propionate boosted retinoid related activity greater than the retinoid only, reflected by a dose-response, downregulation of loricrin (LOR) and induction of keratin 4 (KRT4) proteins. In vivo, retinol (0.1%) and retinyl propionate (0.5%) significantly increased most evaluated biomarkers, as expected. Low-dose retinol or climbazole alone did not increase these biomarkers; however, in combination, significant (P < 0.05) increases in retinoid and ageing biomarkers were detected. CONCLUSION: Climbazole boosted retinoid activity both in the SE model, after a combined topic treatment with either retinol or retinyl propionate, and in vivo, in combination with a low level of retinol. Based upon the evidence presented here, we suggest that the topical skin application of climbazole in combination with retinoids could deliver skin ageing benefits more than a less robust retinoid alone.

Screening sunscreens: protecting the biomechanical barrier function of skin from solar ultraviolet radiation damage.

OBJECTIVE: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in human life and well known to cause skin damage that can lead to harmful conditions such as erythema. Although sunscreen is a popular form of protection for some of these conditions, it is unclear whether sunscreen can maintain the mechanical barrier properties of skin. The objective of this study was to determine whether in vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques adapted for biological tissue are able to characterize the efficacy of commonly used UV inhibitors and commercial sunscreens to protect the biomechanical barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) from UV exposure. METHODS: The biomechanical properties of SC samples were assayed through measurements of the SC's drying stress profile and delamination energy. The drying stresses within SC were characterized from the curvature of a borosilicate glass substrate onto which SC had been adhered. Delamination energies were characterized using a double-cantilever beam (DCB) cohesion testing method. Successive DCB specimens were prepared from previously separated specimens by adhering new substrates onto each side of the already tested specimen to probe delamination energies deeper into the SC. These properties of the SC were measured before and after UV exposure, both with and without sunscreens applied, to determine the role of sunscreen in preserving the barrier function of SC. RESULTS: The drying stress in SC starts increasing sooner and rises to a higher plateau stress value after UVA exposure as compared to non-UV-exposed control specimens. For specimens that had sunscreen applied, the UVA-exposed and non-UV-exposed SC had similar drying stress profiles. Additionally, specimens exposed to UVB without protection from sunscreen exhibited significantly lower delamination energies than non-UV-exposed controls. With commercial sunscreen applied, the delamination energy for UV-exposed and non-UV-exposed tissue was consistent, even up to large doses of UVB. CONCLUSION: In vitro thin-film mechanical analysis techniques can readily characterize the effects of SC's exposure to UV radiation. The methods used in this study demonstrated commercial sunscreens were able to preserve the biomechanical properties of SC during UV exposure, thus indicating the barrier function of SC was also maintained.

Optimizing the spectral absorption profile of sunscreens.

OBJECTIVE: To investigate whether sunscreens provide optimal protection by exhibiting a uniform spectral absorption profile throughout the ultraviolet spectrum or by having a spectral profile in which absorption in the UVB waveband is greater than in the UVA region. METHODS: A sunscreen with a flat spectral absorption profile was compared with one of the same SPF in which the SPF to UVA protection was in the ratio of 3 : 1 in terms of protecting against erythema and chronic effects with different action spectra, as well as the total UV burden to the skin. RESULTS: A sunscreen with spectral profile in which absorption in the UVB waveband is greater than in the UVA region confers no benefit in terms of erythema (and endpoints with similar action spectra) than a sunscreen with the same SPF that exhibits uniform absorption at all wavelengths throughout the UV spectrum. More importantly, the '3 : 1 profile' offers inferior protection when endpoints with other action spectra are considered, as well as resulting in a total UV burden to the skin that is about 5 times higher than sunscreen products showing a flat spectral absorption profile. CONCLUSION: It may be tempting to believe that it is beneficial to increase the absorption of sunscreens in the UVB region relative to the UVA to reflect the fact that skin damage is associated more with UVB than UVA exposure. However, this belief is a fallacy and consumers are best served with sunscreens in which the spectral protection profile is uniform at all wavelengths throughout the UV spectrum.

Comparing touch senses of naïve and expert panels through treated hair swatches: which associated wordings correlate with hair physical properties?

OBJECTIVES: This study (i) compared the sense of touch between a naïve and expert panels, under visual or blind conditions, using differently treated hair swatches and (ii) explored possible common wordings used by both panels and their possible links with some physical properties of hairs. METHODS: Two sets of 15 hair swatches of Caucasian and Chinese origins were differently treated (bleached, permed, brushed, etc.) or organized (root-tip vs. tip-root). These were evaluated by tactile assessments by two panels (105 naïve consumers and 10 hair experts) under visual or blind conditions, in two geographical locations. A series of 17 defined antonym adjectives, as descriptors, allowed responses of each panel to being scored and their preference mappings to being defined on a like-dislike scale. Hair swatches were measured and assessed by various instrumental techniques (bending, diameter, cuticle cohesion, alignments of hair). RESULTS: Apart from a few overlaps, all 15 hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels which showed a global agreement, making experts reliable assessors. Only three descriptors among 17 correlated with some objective measurements. Tactile-visual assessments differ from those performed tactile blind in both panels. Agreements between both panels appear, however, closer under tactile-blind conditions. CONCLUSION: Trained hair experts were confirmed as reliable representatives of a larger and naïve cohort, viewed as consumers. Hair swatches were well differentiated by both panels, with comparable descriptor rankings.

Retinyl propionate and climbazole combination demonstrates clinical improvement to the appearance of hyperpigmentation and deep wrinkling with minimal irritation.

OBJECTIVE: To evaluate a combination of retinyl propionate and climbazole (RPC) compared to 0.1% retinol for its efficacy, tolerance and ageing appearance. METHOD: Forty-five healthy Caucasian females, ages 40-70, with moderately photodamaged facial skin, were recruited for a 16-week randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved facial study. The efficacy of RPC treatment was compared to 0.1% retinol, in the same product base formulation, with twice daily, split-face product application. Changes in overall photodamage, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and irritation were visually evaluated and measured by instrumentation. Subjective appraisal of efficacy was self-assessed from images where subjects were blinded to treatment and time point. Irritancy potential was also evaluated in a 5-day randomized, double-blind, IRB-approved patch study. RESULTS: Treatment with RPC resulted in significant (P < 0.05) improvement in ageing attributes compared to 0.1% retinol treatment, with minimal irritation. More than 50% of subjects showed improvement to deep wrinkles in the crow's feet area after 5 weeks of product application, and continued improvement to deep wrinkles was observed throughout the course of the study. Similarly, improvement was observed for the appearance of lines and wrinkles in the nasolabial fold (NLF) and for mottled hyperpigmentation. The results from subjective self-assessment confirmed in vivo clinical assessments. In a separate patch study, significantly less irritation was observed with the RPC product as compared to the 0.1% retinol control product. CONCLUSION: RPC delivered significant skin anti-ageing benefits comparable or greater than 0.1% retinol, with minimal irritation.

Grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus as TRPV1 receptor blockers for cosmetic applications.

OBJECTIVE: Blocking the TRPV1 receptor is an interesting approach for the treatment of sensitive skin. Here we investigated the potential of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus to act as TRPV1 receptor blockers and their potential to serve as cosmetic active ingredients. METHODS: Binding characteristics of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus were determined in competitive and functional in vitro assays to achieve IC50 values. The TRPV1 receptor was activated in vivo with capsaicin and noxious heat to investigate skin reddening, microcirculation, skin sensations and heat pain thresholds. RESULTS: Grifolin derivatives extracted from Albatrellus ovinus proved to inhibit the TRPV1 receptor in vitro and in vivo. Besides suppression of the TRPV1 receptor activity upon chemical stimulation with capsaicin, thermal activation was shown to be inhibited as well by application of cosmetic formulations containing 3% Albatrellus ovinus extract. The reduction of stinging and burning sensations as well as reduction of reddening and microcirculation upon irritation with capsaicin or thermal stress proved efficacy in vivo. CONCLUSION: Grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus are able to serve as fungal-derived TRPV1 receptor blockers with capability to serve as a cosmetic active ingredient on sensitive skin.

How long does the volumizing effect of a Zingiber officinale-based lip plumper last?

OBJECTIVE: Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS: Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive techniques. The effect on vascularisation was analyzed with the Mexameter MX 16® , and the volume enhancing effect was assessed by anthropometric measures and profilometry analysis from 3D scanning electron microscope (SEM) images using Alicona's MEX software. Sixty female volunteers were recruited for the study and the measurements were taken 15, 30, 60, 90 and 120 min after product application. RESULTS: Product application produced a statistically significant increase of lip vascularisation during the first 15 min, which stayed unchanged until the 30th min, then decreased in intensity. The volumizing effect was revealed by 3D profilometry analysis only, not by anthropological measurements. The use of 3D SEM images showed an increase of 0.50 mm in the protrusion of the lip vermilion (MHP parameter) during the first 15 min from product application. CONCLUSION: Results suggest that the lip plumper temporarily enhances vasodilation and increases lip volume.

Reinforcement of barrier function and scalp homeostasis by Senkyunolide A to fight against dandruff.

OBJECTIVE: Senkyunolide-A (SENKY) can be isolated from Apium graveolens seed oil obtained using supercritical CO2 extraction. SENKY and its parent compounds, the N-butyl phthalides, have been demonstrated to protect cells from CO poisoning, to prevent diabetes mellitus and to decrease cancer cell proliferation. This study was undertaken to evaluate in vitro and in vivo the effect of SENKY on epidermal function improvement, Malassezia effect control, scalp soothing and dandruff reduction via skin protection-related pathways. METHODS: DNA-array and proteomic studies were performed on human keratinocytes, sebocytes and skin explants to demonstrate SENKY activities. Two clinical evaluations were performed under dermatologist control on 106 volunteers, with greasy or dry scalp, experiencing dandruff, itching and redness. Volunteers tested a shampoo followed, or not, by a leave-on, containing SENKY, or their placebos. Dandruff severity and redness were scored on the scalp. Moisturization and sebum release were recorded using relevant measuring apparatus. Itching and scratching evaluations came from volunteers' self-declarations. RESULTS: DNA-array studies on keratinocytes showed a clear regulation of skin barrier functions and epidermis defence pathways. Upregulation of epidermal differentiation complex genes was observed. These preliminary observations were reinforced by immunocytochemistry and immunohistochemistry studies showing a significant increase of involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, SPRR, LC3B and ceramide 2 productions. Tight-junctions and corneodesmosomes were significantly reinforced both in keratinocyte cultures (corneodesmosin, claudin, ZO-1) and in skin explants (desmoglein). DNA-array studies also demonstrated upregulation of genes involved in detoxification and anti-inflammation pathways. Proteomic studies revealed that hBD2 production was increased in keratinocytes in contact with SENKY, whereas IL-8, PGE-2 and TLR-9 releases were repressed as well as sebocyte lipid production. Clinical evaluations confirmed that after 3 weeks, SENKY significantly reduced dandruff intensity, redness, itching and scalp histamine content compared to placebo and beginning of treatment. CONCLUSION: For the first time, SENKY has been shown to promote scalp homoeostasis by reinforcing barrier and defence functions at both gene and protein levels. It reduces irritation and redness in promoting detoxification and anti-inflammation pathways while controlling the niche of Malassezia. Applied on scalp, SENKY significantly reduces the formation of dandruff and soothes the scalp.

Particulate matter adheres to human hair exposed to severe aerial pollution: consequences for certain hair surface properties.

BACKGROUND: The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES: (i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-life' conditions of severe aerial pollution and (iii) to assess the changes of the hair surface properties, potentially caused by the adherence of airborne PM onto the hair. METHODS: In vitro: a PM was sprayed onto untreated or sebum-coated hair swatches. Real-life conditions: other swatches were exposed to a severely polluted environment, for 24 to 72 h, in Baoding (PR China). In both cases, swatches were examined using scanning electron microscopy. The shine, the frictional properties and the level of metals were measured and compared to those same properties for the unexposed swatches. RESULTS: This work clearly indicates that, under real-life conditions, a large number of PM of various sizes are deposited onto the hair surface. This phenomenon is increased by the presence of sebum and longer exposure times. The in vitro level of PM deposited onto the hair surface is comparable to the in vivo level. The presence of sebum seems to favour the deposit of larger PM. The shine of the exposed swatches is significantly decreased, whereas their respective friction coefficients are significantly increased. Both the presence of sebum and length of exposure time increased the amount of analysed metals present on the exposed hair surface (Al, Fe, Cu, Ba and Zn). CONCLUSION: This work indicates that a very high amount (e.g. billions) of PM can be deposited on a full head of hair for subjects living in a severely aerially polluted environment. This process can be reproduced in vitro. In real-life, pollution has a strong impact on hair surface properties, leading to a modification of the visual aspect (loss of shine) and the alteration of hair surface (increase in friction force). This work may be used to pave the way for prevention and cleansing studies in the field of hair care.

A robust sebum, oil, and particulate pollution model for assessing cleansing efficacy of human skin.

With increasing concerns over the rise of atmospheric particulate pollution globally and its impact on systemic health and skin ageing, we have developed a pollution model to mimic particulate matter trapped in sebum and oils creating a robust (difficult to remove) surrogate for dirty, polluted skin. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the cleansing efficacy/protective effect of a sonic brush vs. manual cleansing against particulate pollution (trapped in grease/oil typical of human sebum). METHODS: The pollution model (Sebollution; sebum pollution model; SPM) consists of atmospheric particulate matter/pollution combined with grease/oils typical of human sebum. Twenty subjects between the ages of 18-65 were enrolled in a single-centre, cleansing study comparisons between the sonic cleansing brush (normal speed) compared to manual cleansing. Equal amount of SPM was applied to the centre of each cheek (left and right). Method of cleansing (sonic vs. manual) was randomized to the side of the face (left or right) for each subject. Each side was cleansed for five-seconds using the sonic cleansing device with sensitive brush head or manually, using equal amounts of water and a gel cleanser. Photographs (VISIA-CR, Canfield Imaging, NJ, USA) were taken at baseline (before application of the SPM), after application of SPM (pre-cleansing), and following cleansing. Image analysis (ImageJ, NIH, Bethesda, MD, USA) was used to quantify colour intensity (amount of particulate pollutants on the skin) using a scale of 0 to 255 (0 = all black pixels; 255 = all white pixels). Differences between the baseline and post-cleansing values (pixels) are reported as the amount of SPM remaining following each method of cleansing. RESULTS: Using a robust cleansing protocol to assess removal of pollutants (SPM; atmospheric particulate matter trapped in grease/oil), the sonic brush removed significantly more SPM than manual cleansing (P < 0.001). While extreme in colour, this pollution method easily allows assessment of efficacy through image analysis.

SPF and UVA-PF sunscreen evaluation: are there good correlations among results obtained in vivo, in vitro and in a theoretical Sunscreen Simulator? A real-life exercise.

OBJECTIVE: Strategies to optimize the development of sunscreens include the use of theoretical sunscreen simulators to predict sun protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro measurements of UVA-PF. The aims of this study were to assess the correlations between (1) SPF and UVA-PF results obtained in a theoretical sunscreen simulator with those observed in vivo (SPF and UVA-PF) and in vitro (UVA-PF) and (2) the results of UVA-PF observed in vitro and in vivo for products in different galenic forms containing or not pigments. METHODS: BASF Sunscreen Simulator software was used to evaluate the theoretical performance of formulations regarding SPF and UVA protection. In vitroUVA-PF and in vivoSPF were determined for all formulations. UVA-PFin vivo measurements were carried out only on products for which the galenic forms (compact foundations and lip balms) or the presence of dye or pigments could make the results of UVA-PFin vitro less reliable (due to a possible uneven film formation). RESULTS: The results of the SPF calculated by the BASF Sunscreen Simulator presented a very good correlation with SPF observed in vivo in the absence of pigments (r = 0.91; P < 0.05) and a good correlation in the presence of pigments (r = 0.70; P < 0.05). The UVA-PF calculated by the BASF Sunscreen Simulator also exhibited a very good correlation with UVA-PF measured in vitro (r = 0.88; P < 0.05) for the formulations not containing pigment and a good correlation (r = 0.75; P < 0.05) for the formulations containing pigment. The correlation of same UVA-PF calculated by BASF Sunscreen Simulator with UVA-PF measured in vivo for the formulations containing pigment was r = 0.74 (P < 0.05), which is considered good. In addition, the measurements of UVA-PFin vivo presented a good correlation with the values obtained in vitro (r = 0.74; P < 0.05). CONCLUSION: In the present study, the use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator and in vitroUVA tests showed good correlations with in vivo results and could be considered as valuable resources in the development of sunscreens.

A study of the suppression of body odour in elderly subjects by anti-fungal agents.

OBJECTIVE: The suppression of body odour following the use of shampoos or soaps containing the anti-fungal agent miconazole nitrate (MCZ) has been recognized anecdotally. To determine whether MCZ could play a role in the suppression of body odour through inhibiting squalene oxidation. METHODS: A prospective study recruited 54 elderly subjects residing in a nursing facility who needed bathing assistance. Subjects bathed with three types of body soap over a 6-week study period (regular soap, sample soap (soap containing MCZ), control soap; 2 weeks per type of soap). Body odour was evaluated based on olfactory assessment of the subjects and their clothing. The subjects and the examiners were blinded to the type of soap (sample or control) being used during the study. An analysis using GC/MS was also carried out to identify the volatile compounds associated with body odour. RESULTS: Suppression of unpleasant body odour of the neck and axilla was reported in subjects who used the sample soap. Three common volatile compounds were detected from the T-shirts worn by the subjects: 2-ethylbutanal, 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one, and geranylacetone. The occurrence of these compounds was reduced using the sample soap. CONCLUSION: Our findings suggest that MCZ could play a role in the suppression of body odour.

Modified Corneosurfametry as a new accelerated high-throughput ex vivo methodology for predicting cleanser effects towards human skin.

BACKGROUND: Corneosurfametry (CSM) was originally developed as a tool to predict irritation potential of cleansers. In this method, surface skin stripped using cyanoacrylate is contacted with surfactants/products, rinsed and stained with toluidine blue and basic fuschin dyes. The intensity of staining increases with increases in irritation potential of surfactant. Our objective was to modify the CSM technique to achieve better control of the tape stripping process. Another objective was to correlate the modified CSM (MCSM) with a traditional in-vivo forearm controlled application test (FCAT) for mildness and to explore its utility to assess the state of corneum after a clinical test. METHODS: Surface skin cells were tape stripped from forearms of volunteers with D-Squame Adhesive Discs. Discs were treated with a 10% solution of the product in a 96-plate well for 10 min, rinsed, dried and treated with basic fuschin-toluidine blue dye solution, rinsed and dried again. Forearm Controlled Application Test (FCAT) was based on a published protocol. Tape strips obtained after product treatment were also analyzed by the MCSM procedure without additional product treatment. RESULTS: Mildness/barrier damage assessed from in-vivo FCAT showed a similar ranking to the MCSM results. MCSM, TEWL and Erythema analysis of between-treatment differences showed a good correlation indicating that barrier damage seen in in-vivo studies can be predicted from ex-vivo MCSM studies. MCSM analysis of tape strips after the FCAT study showed that the damage decreased with increase in tape strip number. A moisturizing body wash (MBW) with mild surfactants showed the least damage in all layers. In contrast, harsh dish washing liquid showed significantly higher damage down to several layers. Another MBW with petrolatum in a harsher base showed damage almost similar to that of the harsh dish washing liquid in the surface layers. Thus, the MCSM was able to show underlying damage which would have been normally masked by the deposited petrolatum. CONCLUSION: The MCSM assay was shown to be a valuable tool for accelerated high throughput evaluation of mildness of surfactants and fully formulated products. MCSM can also be used to assess the state of the corneum after a product treatment.