Use of Collagen in Cosmetic Products.

Collagen (CLG) belongs to the family of fibrillar proteins and is composed of left-handed α polypeptide chains, which, twisting around themselves and their axis, form a right-handed superhelix. In the chemical structure, it contains mainly proline, hydroxyproline, glycine, and hydroxylysine. It occurs naturally in the dermis in the form of fibers that provide the skin with proper density and elasticity. The review aimed to present the types of collagen protein, factors affecting its structure and its unusual role in the functioning of the human body. Also, an overview of cosmetic products containing collagen or its derivatives, the characteristics of the formulas of these products, and the effects of their use were presented. Throughout the market, there are many cosmetic and cosmeceutical products containing CLG. They are in the form of fillers administered as injections, belonging to the group of the oldest tissue fillers; products administered orally and for topical use, such as creams, gels, serums, or cosmetic masks. Analyzed studies have shown that the use of products with collagen or its peptides improves the general condition of the skin and delays the aging process by reducing the depth of wrinkles, improving hydration (in the case of oral preparations), reducing transepithelial water loss (TEWL), as well as improving skin density and elasticity. In addition, oral application of bioactive CLG peptides has shown a positive effect on the nails, reducing the frequency of their breakage.

Aromatic plants as cosmeceuticals: benefits and applications for skin health.

MAIN CONCLUSION: This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation. Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants' diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.

Best practices in the treatment of melasma with a focus on patients with skin of color.

BACKGROUND: Melasma is a chronic hypermelanosis of the skin that affects approximately 1% of the global population, predominantly affects women, and is more prevalent in skin of color. Melasma is a common driver for patients with skin of color to seek out a dermatologist for treatment, and ensuring the right approach for these patients is important because some treatments may be associated with adverse side effects. Because of the chronicity of the disease and established psychosocial and emotional impacts, there is a large need to ensure care follows the best available evidence on the treatment of patients with melasma. OBJECTIVE: Here, we summarized current available topical treatments for melasma with considerations dermatologists should have for their patients with skin of color. METHODS: Steering committee consensus on clinical best practices. RESULTS: We describe a flexible and focused treatment algorithm that reflects both treatment and maintenance periods that is a consensus of our extensive clinical experience. LIMITATIONS: Use of real-world evidence and potential for individual practice bias. CONCLUSION: Melasma can be challenging to treat, particularly in patients with skin of color, and our recommendations for best practices for patients in the United States are an important step toward standardizing care.

New Phytol Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical Potential.

Natural compounds are widely incorporated into cosmetic products for many purposes. Diterpenes often function as fragrances, enhancing the sensory experience of these formulations. However, current trends in cosmetic science aim to develop multifunctional products, where compounds traditionally used for texture or fragrance also possess biological activities that contribute to the product's efficacy. In this context, this study focuses on synthesizing derivatives of phytol-a compound already presents in cosmetic formulations-to enhance its anti-aging properties. The derivatives were synthesized through esterification with substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids, known for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Reaction yields ranged from 91.0% to 5.2%, depending on the substituents in acid derivatives. The structures of the synthesized compounds were confirmed through NMR and MS techniques. Both the natural and newly synthesized derivatives were evaluated for their cosmeceutical potential using antioxidant assays and inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. This work presents the first report of the synthesis and cosmetic evaluation of several of these derivatives. Comparing with phytol (1), which presented an IC50 of 77.47 µM, four of the derivatives presented improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity, with phytyl 4-methoxybenzoate being the most active (IC50 = 27.9 µM), followed by phytyl benzoate with an IC50 of 34.73 µM. Substitutions at other positions on the aromatic ring were less effective. Molecular docking studies confirmed that the modifications potentiated a stronger interaction between the synthesized compounds and tyrosinase.

Anti-ageing mechanism of topical bioactive ingredient composition on skin based on network pharmacology.

OBJECTIVE: To elucidate the anti-ageing mechanism of the combination of eight ingredients on the skin from a multidimensional view of the skin. METHODS: The target pathway mechanisms of composition to delay skin ageing were investigated by a network pharmacology approach and experimentally validated at three levels: epidermal, dermal, and tissue. RESULTS: We identified 24 statistically significant skin ageing-related pathways, encompassing crucial processes such as epidermal barrier repair, dermal collagen and elastin production, inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as modulation of acetylcholine and acetylcholine receptor binding. Furthermore, our in vitro experimental findings exhibited the following outcomes: the composition promotes fibroblast proliferation and the expression of barrier-related genes in the epidermis; it also stimulated the expression of collagen I, collagen III, and elastic fibre while inhibiting ROS and ß-Gal levels in HDF cells within the dermis. Additionally, Spilanthol in the Acmella oleracea extract contained in the composition demonstrated neuro-relaxing activity in Zebrafish embryo, suggesting its potential as an anti-wrinkle ingredient at the hypodermis level. CONCLUSIONS: In vitro experiments validated the anti-ageing mechanism of composition at multiple skin levels. This framework can be extended to unravel the functional mechanisms of other clinically validated compositions, including traditional folk recipes utilized in cosmeceuticals.

OBJECTIF: Élucider le mécanisme anti­âge de la combinaison de huit ingrédients sur la peau d'un point de vue multidimensionnel. MÉTHODES: Les mécanismes des voies cibles de la composition pour retarder le vieillissement de la peau ont été étudiés par une approche de pharmacologie des réseaux et validés expérimentalement à trois niveaux : épidermique, dermique et tissulaire. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons identifié 24 voies statistiquement significatives liées au vieillissement de la peau, englobant des processus cruciaux tels que la réparation de la barrière épidermique, la production de collagène et d'élastine dermiques, l'inhibition des espèces réactives de l'oxygène (ROS), ainsi que la modulation de l'acétylcholine et de la liaison des récepteurs de l'acétylcholine. En outre, nos résultats expérimentaux in vitro ont montré les résultats suivants : la composition favorise la prolifération des fibroblastes et l'expression des gènes liés à la barrière dans l'épiderme ; elle stimule également l'expression du collagène I, du collagène III et de la fibre élastique tout en inhibant les niveaux de ROS et de ß­Gal dans les cellules HDF au sein du derme. En outre, le Spilanthol de l'extrait d'Acmella oleracea contenu dans la composition a démontré une activité neuro­relaxante dans l'embryon de poisson zèbre, suggérant son potentiel en tant qu'ingrédient anti­rides au niveau de l'hypoderme. CONCLUSIONS: Les expériences in vitro ont validé le mécanisme anti­âge de la composition à plusieurs niveaux de la peau. Ce cadre peut être étendu pour élucider les mécanismes fonctionnels d'autres compositions validées cliniquement, y compris les recettes populaires traditionnelles utilisées dans les produits cosméceutiques.

Unlocking the role of herbal cosmeceutical in anti-ageing and skin ageing associated diseases.

The process of skin ageing is a natural biological phenomenon characterised by the emergence of wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and dryness over time. The increasing significance of skin in physical attractiveness has heightened skincare concerns. Anti-ageing cosmetics play a pivotal role in nurturing the skin, enhancing its quality, and promoting overall health. Today, cosmetics have evolved beyond mere aesthetics and are now integral to individual wellness. The contemporary quest for perpetual youth has intensified, prompting a deeper exploration into the skin ageing process. This comprehensive exploration delves into various elements involved in skin ageing, encompassing cells such as stem and endothelial cells, blood vessels, soft tissues, and signalling pathways. The molecular basis of skin ageing, including biochemical factors like reactive oxygen species, damaged DNA, free radicals, ions, and proteins (mRNA), is scrutinised alongside relevant animal models. The article critically analyzes the outcomes of utilising herbal components, emphasising their advantageous anti-ageing properties. The factors contributing to skin ageing, mechanistic perspectives, management approaches involving herbal cosmeceutical, and associated complications (especially cardiovascular diseases, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, etc.) are succinctly addressed. In addition, the manuscript further summarises the recent patented innovations and toxicity of the herbal cosmeceuticals for anti-ageing and ageing associated disorders. Despite progress, further research is imperative to unlock the full potential of herbal components as anti-ageing agents.

Distinct skin microbiome modulation following different topical acne treatments in mild acne vulgaris patients: A randomized, investigator-blinded exploratory study.

The effects of topical non-antibiotic acne treatment on skin microbiota have rarely been demonstrated. In the study, we randomized 45 mild acne vulgaris participants into three treatment groups, including a cream-gel dermocosmetic containing Aqua Posae Filiformis, lipohydroxy acid, salicylic acid, linoleic acid, niacinamide and piroctone olamine (DC), retinoic acid 0.025% cream (VAA) and benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel (BP). At months 0, 1 and 3, skin specimens were swabbed from the cheek and forehead and sequenced by targeting V3-V4 regions of the 16 S rRNA gene. QIIME2 was used to characterize bacterial communities. Acne severity, sebum level and tolerability were assessed concomitantly in each visit. We found that both VAA and BP could significantly reduce the bacterial diversity at month 1 (p-value = 0.010 and 0.004 respectively), while no significant reduction was observed in DC group. The microbiota compositions also significantly altered for beta diversity in all treatments (all p-value = 0.001). An increased Cutibacterium with decreased Staphylococcus relative abundance was observed at months 1 and 3 in DC group, while an opposite trend was demonstrated in VAA and BP groups. These findings suggest a potential impact of DC, VAA and BP on the diversity and composition profiles of the skin microbiota in mild acne participants.

The safety and effectiveness of low-level light therapy (LLLT) with light-emitting diode (LED) bed system and a novel topical anti-cellulite gel on grades 1-2 thigh/buttock cellulite: a randomized, comparative-controlled split-thigh/buttock IRB study.

BACKGROUND: Cellulite of the upper lateral and posterior thighs and lower buttocks represents a common unwanted condition. OBJECTIVES: The author sought to comparea LLLT-LED bed therapy and a novel topical anti-cellulite gel on one thigh/buttock cellulite vs light therapy for cellulite to the opposite side. METHODS: Eight healthy female subjects were randomly treated with a LLLT-LED bed twice weekly for 20 minutes in prone/supine positions with twice daily application of a novel anti-cellulite gel to one randomized thigh/buttock. RESULTS: At the end of the 3-month trial, skin elasticity increased after combined therapy on one thigh but decreased with only LLLT-LED bed treatments on the opposite thigh. Thighs treated with active gel and LLLT-LED bed, were downgraded to a lower cellulite grade, while monotherapy did not demonstrate any change from their baseline cellulite grading. Changes in thigh circumference did not correlate with either treatments regimens.Subject and investigator questionnaire evaluations at month-3 were assessed as "satisfactory" results. There were no adverse reactions to treatments. CONCLUSIONS: The use of LLLT-LED bed therapy and an anti-cellulite gel demonstrated an efficient alternative in the treatment of cellulite-involved thighs/buttocks over similarly affected thighs/buttocks that were treated only with LLLT-LED bed therapy.

Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives.

The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.

Ginkgo biloba leaves extract's cosmeceutical evaluation: a preliminary assessments on human volunteers towards achieving improved skin condition and rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Ginkgo biloba (GB) leaves extract is known to possess potent antioxidants and other bioactivities such as improved skin conditions and rejuvenation. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to develop a cosmeceutical preparation to utilize the strong antioxidant potential of GB leaves as part of the skincare formulation. METHODS: Cream incorporated GB (GBC) was prepared by mixing the obtained extract with stearic acid-sodium hydroxide components in an emulsion format. The obtained GBC was characterized for GB contents, uniformity, pH, compatibility, stability, and skin's human application. RESULTS: A homogeneous, physically, and chemically stable, with pH near the skin pH and shiny cream, was obtained. The prepared cream was easy to rub and pearly in appearance. It was effective and safe during the two-week trial conducted on human volunteers according to clinical trial registry protocols. The cream scavenged free radicals in DPPH assay tests. The cream incorporated GB made the skin more spirited and tauter. Furthermore, the wrinkles were reduced and the skin was renewed vigor. CONCLUSION: The GBC worked at the topical level and provided benefits when applied daily for the trial duration. The formulation also provided visually observable anti-wrinkle effects on the skin, with visible improvements in the skin's shape and texture. The prepared cream can be used to rejuvenate the skin.

Synthesis and Characterization of Curcumin-Chitosan Loaded Gold Nanoparticles by Oryctes rhinoceros' Chitin for Cosmeceutical Application.

A breakthrough in cosmeceuticals by utilizing insects as major ingredients in cosmetic products is gaining popularity. Therefore, the interest in rare sources of ingredients, for instance, from the Oryctes rhinoceros beetle, can bring huge benefits in terms of turning pests into wealth. In this study, curcumin was chosen as the active ingredient loaded into chitosan-gold nanoparticles (CCG-NP). Curcumin is unstable and has poor absorption, a high rate of metabolism, and high sensitivity to light. These are all factors that contribute to the low bioavailability of any substance to reach the target cells. Therefore, chitosan extracted from O. rhinoceros could be used as a drug carrier to overcome these limitations. In order to overcome these limitations, CCG-NPs were synthesized and characterized. Chitosan was isolated from O. rhinoceros and CCG-NPs were successfully synthesized at 70 °C for 60 min under optimal conditions of a reactant ratio of 2:0.5 (0.5 mM HAuCl4: 0.1% curcumin). Characterizations of CCG-NP involved FTIR analysis, zeta potential, morphological properties determination by FE-SEM, particle size analysis, crystallinity study by XRD, and elemental analysis by EDX. The shape of the CCG-NP was round, its size was 128.27 d.nm, and the value of the zeta potential was 20.2 ± 3.81 mV. The IC50 value for cell viability is 58%, indicating a mild toxicity trait. To conclude, CCG-NP is a stable, spherical, nano-sized, non-toxic, and homogeneous solution.

Cupressus arizonica Greene: Phytochemical Profile and Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Properties of Its Leaf Extracts.

For many decades, natural resources have traditionally been employed in skin care. Here, we explored the phytochemical profile of the aqueous and ethanolic leaf extracts of Cupressus arizonica Greene and assessed their antioxidant, antiaging and antibacterial activities in vitro. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) analysis led to the tentative identification of 67 compounds consisting mainly of phenolic and fatty acids, diterpene acids, proanthocyanidins and flavonoid and biflavonoid glycosides. The aqueous extract demonstrated substantial in vitro antioxidant potential at FRAP and DPPH assays and inhibited the four target enzymes (collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase) engaged in skin remodeling and aging with IC50 values close to those of the standard drugs. Moreover, the aqueous extract at 25 mg/mL suppressed biofilm formation by Pseudomonas aeruginosa, a bacterial pathogen causing common skin manifestations, and decreased its swarming and swimming motilities. In conclusion, C. arizonica leaves can be considered a promising candidate for potential application in skin aging.

Extraction Optimization, Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical and Wound Healing Potential of Echinacea purpurea Glycerolic Extracts.

Echinacea purpurea is a plant with immunomodulating properties, often used in topical preparations for treatment of small superficial wounds. In the presented study, the best conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of caffeic acid derivatives (caftaric and cichoric acid) (TPA-opt extract), as well as the conditions best suited for preparation of the extract with high radical scavenging activity (RSA-opt extract), from E. purpurea aerial parts were determined. A Box-Behnken design based on glycerol content (%, w/w), temperature (°C), ultrasonication power (W) and time (min) as independent variables was performed. Antioxidant, antiaging and wound healing effects of the two prepared extracts were evaluated. The results demonstrate that glycerol extraction is a fast and efficient method for preparation of the extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe2+ chelating and antioxidant abilities. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated notable collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, indicating their antiaging properties. Well-pronounced hyaluronidase-inhibitory activities, with IC50 values lower than 30 µL extract/mL, as well as the ability to promote scratch closure in HaCaT keratinocyte monolayers, even in concentrations as low as 2.5 µL extract/mL (for RSA-opt), demonstrate promising wound healing effects of E. purpurea. The fact that the investigated extracts were prepared using glycerol, a non-toxic and environmentally friendly solvent, widely used in cosmetics, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Selenized Chickpea Sprouts Hydrolysates as a Potential Anti-Aging Ingredient.

Skin aging represents a health and aesthetic problem that could result in infections and skin diseases. Bioactive peptides can potentially be used in skin aging regulation. Chickpea (Cicer arietinum L.) selenoproteins were obtained from germination with 2 mg Na2SeO3/100 g of seeds for 2 days. Alcalase, pepsin, and trypsin were used as hydrolyzers, and a membrane < 10 kDa was used to fractionate the hydrolysate. Se content, antioxidant capacity, elastase and collagen inhibition, functional stability, and preventative capacity were analyzed. Significant increases in Se content were found in germinated chickpea flour and protein related to the control. An increase of 38% in protein was observed in the selenized flour related to the control. A band (600-550 cm-1) observed in the selenized hydrolysates suggested the insertion of Se into the protein. Hydrolysates from pepsin and trypsin had the highest antioxidant potential. Se enhanced the stability of total protein and protein hydrolysates through time and increased their antioxidant capacity. Hydrolysates > 10 kDa had higher elastase and collagenase inhibition than the total protein and hydrolysates < 10 kDa. Protein hydrolysates < 10 kDa 6 h before UVA radiation had the highest inhibition of collagen degradation. Selenized protein hydrolysates showed promising antioxidant effects that could be related to skin anti-aging effects.

Nutritional Supplements for Skin Health-A Review of What Should Be Chosen and Why.

Supplementation of micronutrients is considered to be crucial in the reinforcement of the skin's barrier. In this paper, 14 nutritional compounds commonly used in food or pharmaceutic industries were analyzed in terms of influencing skin conditions. The major objective of this paper was to provide a narrative review of the available literature regarding several chosen compounds that are currently widely recommended as supplements that aim to maintain proper and healthy skin conditions. We conducted a review of the literature from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science until September 2023 without any other restrictions regarding the year of the publication. Ultimately, we reviewed 238 articles, including them in this review. Each of the reviewed compounds, including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, curcumin, chlorella, Omega-3, biotin,Ppolypodium leucotomos, Simmondsia chinesis, gamma oryzanol, olive leaf extract, spirulina, and astaxanthin, was observed to present some possible effects with promising benefits for a skin condition, i.e., photoprotective radiation. Adding them to the diet or daily routine might have a positive influence on some skin inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Further, UV radiation protection facilitated by some supplements and their impact on human cells might be helpful during chemotherapy or in preventing melanoma development. Further research is needed because of the lack of clear consensus regarding the doses of the described compounds that could provide desirable effects on the skin.

Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence.

Skin aging goes beyond a chronological process and also results from extrinsic factors referred to as the exposome. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important component of the extracellular matrix, with loss starting at 25 years old. While many studies of HA concern topical use, few literature reviews only address the use of topical HA in dermatology. This review describes the different characteristics of HA-containing cosmeceuticals, with a focus on skin aging and the impact of exposome factors on HA synthesis and degradation. A review was performed using the terms HA, hyaluronan, topical, dermatology, cosmetic, aging treatment, exposome, and cosmeceuticals. Results are also presented from a recent randomized controlled trial (RCT), which investigated the additional benefit of using a HA epidermic filler (HA-filler serum) combined with Botulinum toxin type A (BoNTA) to treat signs of skin aging. Subjects were randomized to two groups: HA-filler serum starting 24 h after the BoNTA injection then twice daily for 24 weeks, or the control group, which received BoNTA. HA is a key ingredient used in cosmeceuticals for its hydration/antiaging properties (hygroscopic, rheological, and viscoelastic). Several clinical studies indicate that HA is both well tolerated and effective, adjuvant to both post-surgical and facial rejuvenation procedures. In the RCT, one of few studies to combine BoNTA and HA with a 6-month follow-up, the HA-filler serum lengthened the duration of BoNTA's effect in reducing wrinkles. Numerous studies support HA-based cosmeceuticals as a noninvasive, effective solution for improving skin hydration and rejuvenation.

Unveiling the dermatological potential of marine fungal species components: Antioxidant and inhibitory capacities over tyrosinase.

Marine fungi are a rich source of biologically active molecules, but a poorly explored bioresource for cosmeceutical products. This study evaluates the phytochemistry, antioxidant, and antityrosinase effects of the organic extracts of marine fungi isolated from various marine environments in India. Out of 35 screened fungal strains, methanol extracts of strains P2, Talaromyces stipitatus, and D4, Aspergillus terreus exhibited antityrosinase activity of 45% and 43%, respectively, at the lowest concentration of 0.5 mg/mL. The highest free radicals scavenging activity of 94% and 97% was observed at 500 mg/mL, respectively, of the same fungal extracts. The total phenolic content ranged from 8.20 to 20.30 mg/g of the dry weight of extract, expressed as gallic acid equivalent. GC-MS analysis of T. stipitatus and A. terreus extract identified seven and 10 major compounds, respectively. Some of the major compounds included azetidine, (3E)-3-[(3,5-dimethoxybenzoyl)hydrazono]-N-isobutyl butanamide, aziridine, and 3-methylcyclopentanone, 1,1-dimethylcyclohexane, cyclopentane carboxylic acid, N-allyl-4,5,6,7-tetrahydro-2-benzothiophene-1-carboxamide, cyclo(l-Pro-l-Val), and 3-phenylpropionitrile. In conclusion, this study showed abundant fungal resources in Indian marine environments. A correlation between total phenolic contents of the extracts confirmed that phenolic compounds play an important role in antioxidant as well as antityrosinase activity of the marine fungal extracts and can be viewed as new potential antityrosinase and antioxidant resources.

Potential Beneficial Effects of Sargassum spp. in Skin Aging.

Seaweeds are receiving much attention as a rich source of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recent studies have revealed that Sargassum spp., a genus of brown algae in the family Sargassaceae, has multiple functions in preventing and improving skin aging. Sargassum spp. contains many bioactive compounds, such as fucoidan, fucoxanthin, terpenoids, flavonoids, and meroterpenoids. These Sargassum spp. extracts and derivative compounds have excellent potential for skincare, as they exhibit skin health-promoting properties, including antioxidants, anti-inflammation, whitening, skin barrier repair, and moisturizing. Therefore, searching for bioactive compounds in marine resources such as Sargassum spp. could be an attractive approach to preventing and improving skin aging. The current review focused on the various biological abilities of Sargassum extracts or derived compounds for anti-skin aging.

Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products.

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Bio-Guided Optimization of Cystoseira abies-marina Cosmeceuticals Extraction by Advanced Technologies.

Cystoseira abies-marina (reclassified as Gongolaria abies-marina) is a brown seaweed species rich in meroterpenoids, presenting interesting antioxidant, antitumor, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, there is still a lot to uncover regarding the bioactive potential of this species, as evidenced by the lack of records of antiaging activities from Cystoseira abies-marina, making this macroalga an excellent candidate for studies of its cosmeceutical potential. Ultrasound-(UAE) and microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) are advanced sustainable technologies that are very efficient in enhancing bioactive compound extraction. Applying these extraction techniques to a new biological matrix often calls for optimizing the parameters toward the best extraction yield. Since Cystoseira abies-marina is a new matrix for both UAE and MAE techniques, the present work proposes the optimization of the extraction process, using a novel approach: instead of only focusing on increasing the yield, the goal of this work is to determine the parameters for UAE and MAE that lead to extracts with better antiaging activities. For this bio-guided approach, several Cystoseira abies-marina extracts were prepared by UAE and MAE under varying conditions of solvent, time, and algae/solvent ratios. Their antiaging activities were then determined, and all the results combined to unveil the conditions yielding extracts with higher cosmeceutical potential. Using statistical tools, it was found that, for UAE, the best conditions were ethyl acetate, 15 min, and a ratio of 1:4, which led to an extract with high yield, and causing the strong inhibition of tyrosinase and elastase. In turn, ethanol, 10 min, and a ratio of 1:4 were the best conditions for MAE, leading to the extract with the best antioxidant activity. The results show that the proposed bio-guided approach was effective in obtaining extracts with high cosmeceutical potential, unveiling the possibility of modulating an extract's activity by changing the extraction method.