Functional properties and skin care effects of sodium trehalose sulfate.

BACKGROUND: It is known that heparinoid, a mucopolysaccharide polysulfate, is effective in improving rough skin and promoting blood circulation as medicines for diseased areas. However, heparinoid has a molecular weight of more than 5000 and cannot penetrate healthy stratum corneum. OBJECTIVE: We tested the efficacy of sulfated oligosaccharides with a molecular weight of less than 2000 on the human skin barrier function and moisturizing function. METHODS: We measured the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of a three-dimensional human epidermis model cultured for 3 days after topical application of sulfated oligosaccharides, then observed the effects on TEWL suppression. The mRNA levels of proteins involved in intercellular lipid transport and storage in the stratum corneum, and moisture retention were measured using RT-qPCR. RESULTS: An increase in the mRNA levels of the ATP-binding cassette subfamily A member 12 (ABCA12), which transports lipids into stratum granulosum, was confirmed. Increases were also observed in the mRNA levels of filaggrin (FLG), which is involved in the generation of natural moisturizing factors, and of caspase-14, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, which are involved in the degradation of FLG. Antibody staining confirmed that the application of sodium trehalose sulfate to 3D model skin resulted in more ABCA12, ceramide, transglutaminase1, and FLG than those in controls. In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study, participants with low stratum corneum water content applied a lotion and emulsion containing sodium trehalose sulfate to their faces for 4 weeks. Sodium trehalose sulfate decreased the TEWL and increased the stratum corneum water content. CONCLUSION: These results suggest that cosmetics containing sodium trehalose sulfate act on the epidermis by increasing barrier factors and moisturizing factors, thereby ameliorating dry skin.

Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidative, and Moisturizing Effects of Oxyceros horridus Lour. Ethanol Extract in Human Keratinocytes via the p38 Signaling Pathway.

Skin is the largest and outermost organ in the human body; it serves as a vital defense mechanism against various external threats. Therefore, it is crucial to maintain its health through protection against harmful substances and adequate moisture levels. This study investigates the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of Oxyceros horridus Lour. (Oh-EE) in human keratinocytes. Oh-EE demonstrates potent antioxidant activity and effectively protects against oxidative stress induced by external stimuli such as UVB radiation and H2O2. Additionally, it exhibits significant anti-inflammatory effects proven by its ability to downregulate the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, namely COX-2 and IL-6. The study also explores the involvement of the AP-1 pathway, highlighting the ability of Oh-EE to suppress the expression of p38 and its upstream regulator, MKK3/6, under UVB-induced conditions. Interestingly, Oh-EE can activate the AP-1 pathway in the absence of external triggers. Furthermore, Oh-EE enhances skin moisture by upregulating the expression of key genes involved in skin hydration, namely HAS3 and FLG. These findings underscore the potential of Oh-EE as a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations, providing a range of skin benefits. Further research is warranted to comprehensively understand the underlying mechanisms through which Oh-EE exerts its effects.

The Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Moisturizing Effects of Camellia oleifera Oil and Its Potential Applications.

Camellia oleifera oil (CO oil) extracted from C. oleifera seeds has a 2300-year consumption history in China. However, there is relatively little research regarding its non-edible uses. This study determined the physicochemical properties of CO oil extracted via direct pressing, identified its main components using GC-MS, and evaluated its antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory activities. The results revealed that CO oil's acid, peroxide, iodine, and saponification values were 1.06 ± 0.031 mg/g, 0.24 ± 0.01 g/100 g, 65.14 ± 8.22 g/100 g, and 180.41 ± 5.60 mg/g, respectively. CO oil's tocopherol, polyphenol, and squalene contents were 82.21 ± 9.07 mg/kg, 181.37 ± 3.76 mg/kg, and 53.39 ± 6.58 mg/kg, respectively; its unsaturated fatty acid (UFA) content was 87.44%, and its saturated fatty acid (SFA) content was 12.56%. CO oil also demonstrated excellent moisture retention properties, anti-inflammatory effects, and certain free radical scavenging. A highly stable CO oil emulsion with competent microbiological detection was developed using formulation optimization. Using CO oil in the emulsion significantly improved the formulation's antioxidant and moisturizing properties compared with those of the emulsion formulation that did not include CO oil. The prepared emulsion was not cytotoxic to cells and could reduce cells' NO content; therefore, it may have potential nutritional value in medicine and cosmetics.

Study on the Skincare Effects of Red Rice Fermented by Aspergillus oryzae In Vitro.

Red rice, a variety of pigmented grain, serves dual purposes as both a food and medicinal resource. In recent years, we have witnessed an increasing interest in the dermatological benefits of fermented rice extracts, particularly their whitening and hydrating effects. However, data on the skincare advantages derived from fermenting red rice with Aspergillus oryzae remain sparse. This study utilized red rice as a substrate for fermentation by Aspergillus oryzae, producing a substance known as red rice Aspergillus oryzae fermentation (RRFA). We conducted a preliminary analysis of RRFA's composition followed by an evaluation of its skincare potential through various in vitro tests. Our objective was to develop a safe and highly effective skincare component for potential cosmetic applications. RRFA's constituents were assessed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), Kjeldahl nitrogen determination, the phenol-sulfuric acid method, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). We employed human dermal fibroblasts (FB) to assess RRFA's anti-aging and antioxidative properties, immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and 3D epidermal models to examine its moisturizing and reparative capabilities, and human primary melanocytes (MCs) to study its effects on skin lightening. Our findings revealed that RRFA encompasses several bioactive compounds beneficial for skin health. RRFA can significantly promote the proliferation of FB cells. And it markedly enhances the mRNA expression of ECM-related anti-aging genes and reduces reactive oxygen species production. Furthermore, RRFA significantly boosts the expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), and Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) mRNA, alongside elevating moisture levels in a 3D epidermal model. Increases were also observed in the mRNA expression of Claudin 1 (CLDN1), Involucrin (IVL), and Zonula Occludens-1 (ZO-1) in keratinocytes. Additionally, RRFA demonstrated an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. Collectively, RRFA contains diverse ingredients which are beneficial for skin health and showcases multifaceted skincare effects in terms of anti-aging, antioxidant, moisturizing, repairing, and whitening capabilities in vitro, highlighting its potential for future cosmetic applications.

Synergetic Effects of Aloe Vera Extract with Trimethylglycine for Targeted Aquaporin 3 Regulation and Long-Term Skin Hydration.

Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) channels are tetrameric membrane-bound channels that facilitate the transport of water and other small solutes across cell membranes in the skin. Decreased AQP3 expression is associated with skin dryness, skin aging, psoriasis, and delayed wound healing. Thus, our study focused on a novel combination based on Aloe barbadensis leaf extract and trimethylglycine for targeted AQP3 regulation in skin keratinocytes and deep skin moisturization. Firstly, a dose-finding cytotoxicity assay of the selected substances was performed with a 2,5-diphenyl-2H-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) indicator on HaCaT cells. The substances' ability to increase the amount of AQP3 in keratinocytes was evaluated in a keratinocyte cell culture by means of ELISA. Additionally, the deep skin hydration effect was confirmed in clinical research with healthy volunteers. According to the results, the maximum tolerated doses providing viability at 70% (MTDs) values for Aloe barbadensis leaf extract and trimethylglycine were 24.50% and 39.00%, respectively. Following the research and development, a complex based on Aloe barbadensis leaf extract and trimethylglycine in a 1:1 mass ratio exhibited a good cytotoxicity profile, with an MTDs value of 37.90%. Furthermore, it was shown that the combination had a clear synergetic effect and significantly increased AQP3 by up to 380% compared to the negative control and glyceryl glucoside (p < 0.001). It was clinically confirmed that the developed shower gel containing Aloe barbadensis leaf extract and trimethylglycine safely improved skin hydration after one use and over 28 days. Thus, this novel plant-based combination has promising potential for AQP3 regulation in the skin epidermis and a role in the development of dermatological drugs for the treatment of skin xerosis and atopic-related conditions.

Some thoughts about Anthony V. Rawlings and hydration and barrier function of the skin.

Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long-standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database.

Anthony V. Rawlings a plus de 30 ans d'expérience dans le domaine général de la science de la peau. Il est l'auteur d'un grand nombre de publications scientifiques, et ses travaux ont été largement cités. Il a beaucoup contribué à notre compréhension de la physiologie de la peau, notamment la xérose et l'hydratation, la fonction de barrière, la desquamation, l'enveloppe des cornéocytes, la chimie physique des lipides de la couche cornée, le photodommage et les variations ethniques. Il a occupé des postes de direction dans plusieurs entreprises aux États­Unis et au Royaume­Uni, a créé AVR Consulting en 2002 et entretient une relation de longue date avec ses collègues de l'University College de Londres. Le temps qu'il a passé comme rédacteur en chef de l'International Journal of Cosmetic Science a été déterminant dans le développement de la revue. Il a travaillé dur et a réussi à faire inclure l'IJCS dans la base de données PubMed.

Recommendations on the Use of Moisturizing Products Prepared by Spanish Dermatologists Using the Delphi Method. / Recomendaciones sobre el uso de productos hidratantes elaboradas por dermatólogos españoles mediante el método Delphi.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE: Moisturizing products are widely used in conditions affecting skin hydration. However, the lack of scientific evidence leads to discrepancies and great variability in the recommendations used by different health professionals. The aim of this consensus document is to generate recommendations based on the evidence and experience of dermatologists to unify and facilitate the use of moisturizing products in the routine clinical practice. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A 49-statement questionnaire on moisturizing products was prepared and, then, arranged in 5 blocks: 1) concept; 2) characteristics, 3) frequency and quantity, 4) product use and areas of application, and 5) special populations. Twenty-two expert dermatologists in the management of patients with eczema answered to the survey using a 2-round Delphi methodology (adding an item on the 2nd round). RESULTS: Consensus was reached on 27 statements (54%), most (n=23) via agreement. The highest level of agreement was reached in the blocks on quantity, product use and areas of application (77.8%), followed by the blocks on characteristics (73%) and frequency (62.5%). Regarding the blocks on concept and special populations, the level of consensus on the items proposed was 37.5% and 10%, respectively. Consensus on the use of emollients for xeroderma (71%) was higher vs atopic dermatitis (64%) and inflamed skin (33.3%). CONCLUSIONS: Consensus recommendations can help all prescribers and improve the available evidence regarding their use.

A Transparent Additive-Free Fibrous Facial Mask for Skin Moisturizing.

Most sheet facial masks for skincare are made of nonwovens and loaded with liquid active ingredients, which are usually opaque and require additives for long-term preservation. Herein, a Transparent Additive-Free Fibrous (TAFF) facial mask is reported for skin moisturizing. The TAFF facial mask consists of a bilayer fibrous membrane. The inner layer is fabricated by electrospinning functional components of gelatin (GE) and hyaluronic acid (HA) into a solid fibrous membrane to get rid of additives, the outer layer is an ultrathin PA6 fibrous membrane that is highly transparent, especially after absorbing water. The results indicate that the GE-HA membrane can quickly absorb water and become a transparent hydrogel film. By employing the hydrophobic PA6 membrane as the outer layer, directional water transport is achieved, which enables TAFF facial mask with excellent skin moisturizing effect. The skin moisture content is up to 84% ± 7% after placing the TAFF facial mask on the skin for 10 min. In addition, the relative transparency of the TAFF facial mask on the skin reaches 97.0% ± 1.9% when ultrathin PA6 membrane is used as the outer layer. The design of the transparent additive-free facial mask may serve as a guideline for developing new functional facial masks.

Non-invasive Microneedle Application Increases Ceramide and Natural Moisturizing Factors in a Reconstructed Human Skin Model.

Recently, microneedling as a cosmetic product has attracted attention as one way to improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function to reduce wrinkle formation. However, some cases of erythema and edema have been reported as side effects. In order to develop safer microneedle cosmetics, we investigated whether microneedles can improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function even when applied in a non-invasive manner that does not penetrate the stratum corneum. We established the condition of non-penetrating microneedle application on reconstructed human full-thickness skin models and examined the effect on the skin models when microneedles were applied under this condition. Microneedle application increased the gene expression of serine palmitoyltransferase long chain base subunit (SPTLC) 3, filaggrin, and transglutaminase 1. The amount of ceramide produced by SPTLC was also increased by microneedle application. Gene expression of filaggrin-degrading enzymes and the amount of free amino acids, a product of filaggrin degradation, were also increased by microneedling. These results suggest that non-invasive microneedle application can improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function by increasing the amount of ceramide and natural moisturizing factors.

In vivo analysis of the stratum corneum of Japanese neonates and infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy: a pilot study.

BACKGROUND: Physiological skin properties of neonates and infants change drastically after birth and are implicated in the onset of atopic dermatitis and other diseases. Studies have measured physiological skin properties in infants; however, how these properties change over time remains unclear. No reports have measured ceramide in the stratum corneum of infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy; hence, we used it to measure the physiological properties of the skin, including ceramide, in infants. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The water content and other factors in the skin of infants aged 0, 1, and 6 months were measured. All measurements were performed five times indoors at 22 ± 2°C and 50% ± 10% relative humidity in the middle of the calf at 4-µm distances, and their mean was calculated. RESULTS: The water content of the area between the skin surface and superficial layers was the lowest in newborns as compared with other ages, and the deeper the skin layer, the higher the water content. The stratum corneum, evaluated using confocal Raman spectroscopy, was the thickest in newborns and gradually thinned with age. Its water content was the lowest in newborns. The levels of natural moisturizing factor, ceramide, and cholesterol were higher in newborns and tended to decrease with age. CONCLUSION: This report is the first to evaluate ceramide in the stratum corneum of infants using confocal Raman spectroscopy and could help in conducting subsequent longitudinal measurements of physiological skin properties in neonates and infants.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy.

BACKGROUND: Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). MATERIALS AND METHODS: Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol. RESULTS: Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in ß-pleated sheet conformation of keratin. CONCLUSION: Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Dermocosmetic evaluation of a nutricosmetic formulation based on Curcuma.

Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.

Analysis of Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid in Moisturizing Lotion and Milk Lotion by HPLC with Fluorescence Detection.

We developed a simple and sensitive analytical HPLC method for the determination of acetylated hyaluronic acid (AcHA) in moisturizing and milk lotions. AcHA with different molecular weights was separated as a single peak using a C4 column and detected through post-column derivatization using 2-cyanoacetamide. The limits of detection and quantification were 60 and 200 ng, respectively. We found that AcHA in water was successfully extracted into a strong anion exchange (SAX) spin column with a recovery rate of AcHA was 63.8 ± 1.8%. Although the supernatant from acetone precipitation of lotions could pass through the spin column, the recovery rate (%) and accuracy of AcHA were affected by the viscous properties of cosmetics and acidic and acetone-soluble ingredients. Upon conducting analytical methods in this study, the concentration of AcHA in nine lotions was found to have ranged from 7.50 to 83.3 µg/mL. These values are comparable to the concentration range of AcHA in emulsions that have been previously evaluated for their superior effects. We believe that the analytical and extraction method is useful for the qualitative analysis of AcHA in moisturizing and milk lotions.

Moisturizing and Antioxidant Effects of Artemisia argyi Essence Liquid in HaCaT Keratinocytes.

Artemisia argyi essence liquid (AL) is an aqueous solution extracted from A. argyi using CO2 supercritical fluid extraction. There have been few investigations on the aqueous solution of A. argyi extracted via CO2 supercritical fluid extraction. This study aimed to explore the moisturizing and antioxidant effects of AL and to clarify the potential mechanism underlying those effects. Expression levels of skin moisture-related components and the H2O2-induced oxidative stress responses in human keratinocyte cells were measured via quantitative RT-qPCR, Western blot, and immunofluorescence. Our results showed that AL enhanced the expression of AQP3 and HAS2 by activating the EGFR-mediated STAT3 and MAPK signaling pathways. In addition, AL can play an antioxidant role by inhibiting the NF-κB signaling pathway and activating the Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway, consequently increasing the expression of antioxidant enzymes (GPX1, SOD2) and decreasing the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). This study revealed that AL could be used as a potential moisturizing and antioxidant cosmetic ingredient.

How do the skin barrier and microbiome adapt to the extra-uterine environment after birth? Implications for the clinical practice.

The multiple protective functions of the skin derive from the interactions between epithelial skin and immune cells as well as the commensal microbiota. Developed in the last trimester of intra-uterine life, the skin barrier adapts dynamically after birth. Specific differences in the structure and physiology have been disclosed between infant and adult skin. The stratum corneum of infants is thinner and structured by thicker corneocytes with a more anisotropic surface in comparison to adult skin. Lower levels of the natural moisturizing factor and its constituents, together with the increased protease activity in the epidermis result in dry baby skin and ongoing adaptation of the desquamation to the extra-uterine environment. Infant epidermis is characterized by an accelerated proliferation rate and clinically competent permeability barrier in term neonates, despite the higher baseline values of transepidermal water loss in infants. The skin surface of newborns is less acidic, which could increase susceptibility to diaper and atopic dermatitis. Immediately after birth, skin is colonized by commensal bacteria-a process dependent on the mode of delivery and of major importance for the maturation of the immune system. Skin bacterial diversity and dysbiosis have been related to different pathology such as atopic and seborrheic dermatitis. This paper focuses on the ongoing structural, functional and biochemical adaptation of the human skin barrier after birth. We discuss the interactions on the 'skin barrier/ microbiota/ immune system' axis and their role in the development of competent functional integrity of the epidermal barrier.

Les multiples fonctions protectrices de la peau découlent des interactions entre les cellules épithéliales de la peau et les cellules immunitaires, ainsi que le microbiote commensal. Développée au cours du dernier trimestre de la vie intra-utérine, la barrière cutanée s'adapte de manière dynamique après la naissance. Des différences spécifiques dans la structure et la physiologie ont été mises en évidence entre la peau des nourrissons et celle des adultes. La couche cornée des nourrissons est plus fine et structurée par des cornéocytes plus épais avec une surface plus anisotrope par rapport à la peau adulte. Des niveaux plus faibles des NMF et de ses constituants, ainsi qu'une activité protéasique accrue dans l'épiderme entraînent une sécheresse de la peau du bébé et une adaptation continue de la desquamation à l'environnement extra-utérin. L'épiderme du nourrisson est caractérisé par un taux de prolifération accéléré et une barrière de perméabilité cliniquement compétente chez les nouveau-nés nés à terme, malgré les valeurs de base plus élevées de la perte insensible d'eau transépidermique chez les nourrissons. La surface de la peau des nouveau-nés est moins acide, ce qui pourrait augmenter la susceptibilité aux dermatites fessières et atopiques. Immédiatement après la naissance, la peau est colonisée par des bactéries commensales-un processus dépendant du mode d'accouchement et d'une importance majeure pour la maturation du système immunitaire. La diversité et la dysbiose bactériennes de la peau ont été associées à différentes pathologies telles que la dermatite atopique et séborrhéique. Cet article se concentre sur l'adaptation structurelle, fonctionnelle et biochimique de la barrière cutanée humaine après la naissance. Nous discutons des interactions sur l'axe "barrière cutanée/microbiote/système immunitaire" et de leur rôle dans le développement d'une intégrité fonctionnelle compétente de la barrière épidermique.

New approach to soil management focusing on soil health and air quality: one earth one life (critical review).

Soil plays a key role in ecosphere and air quality regulation. Obsolete environmental technologies lead to soil quality loss, air, water, and land systems pollution. Pedosphere and plants are intertwined with the air quality. Ionized O2 is capable to intensify atmosphere turbulence, providing particulate matter (PM2.5) coalescence and dry deposition. Addressing environmental quality, a Biogeosystem Technique (BGT*) heuristic transcendental (nonstandard and not direct imitation of nature) methodology has been developed. A BGT* main focus is an enrichment of Earth's biogeochemical cycles through land use and air cleaning. An intra-soil processing, which provides the soil multilevel architecture, is one of the BGT* ingredients. A next BGT* implementation is intra-soil pulse continuously discrete watering for optimal soil water regime and freshwater saving up to 10-20 times. The BGT* comprises intra-soil dispersed environmentally safe recycling of the PM sediments, heavy metals (HMs) and other pollutants, controlling biofilm-mediated microbial community interactions in the soil. This provides abundant biogeochemical cycle formation and better functioning of the humic substances, biological preparation, and microbial biofilms as a soil-biological starter, ensuring priority plants and trees nutrition, growth and resistance to phytopathogens. A higher underground and aboveground soil biological product increases a reversible C biological sequestration from the atmosphere. An additional light O2 ions photosynthetic production ensures a PM2.5 and PM0.1 coalescence and strengthens an intra-soil transformation of PM sediments into nutrients and improves atmosphere quality. The BGT* provides PM and HMs intra-soil passivation, increases soil biological productivity, stabilizes a climate system of the earth and promotes a green circular economy.

Sunscreens effectiveness are not altered by concomitant use of moisturizing creams: An ultraviolet reflectance photography study.

BACKGROUND: Sunscreens are widely used to protect the skin against the harmful effects of solar radiation. It is not known whether solar protection factor of a sunscreen is altered by the concomitant use of other cosmetic products. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to analyze changes in the protective effect of different commercial and ISO standards sunscreens with high SPF applied shortly before and after application of non-sunscreens galenic formulas type moisturizing creams. METHODS: ISO 24444:2019 standard sunscreens, which claimed SPF 16 and 63, as well as 4 different claimed SPF 50 and 50+ commercial sunscreens were prepared and applied in different sequential order to the back of 25 volunteers and compared with different commercial moisturizing formulas. Ultraviolet (UV) reflectance photography followed by image analysis was used to compare untreated skin and skin treated with moisturizing creams alone and combined with sunscreens. RESULTS: The UV reflectance analysis showed no significant changes of the skin color reflectance treated with moisturizing cream compared with untreated skin. Application of the sunscreen formulations were associated with a 35% - 70% decrease in color related to the in vivo expected SPF, indicating significant UV absorption for all sunscreen formulas. All standard and commercial sunscreens showed no significant differences in UV reflection color level when combined with the different moisturizing creams applied before or after the sunscreen. CONCLUSIONS: Effectiveness of low- and high-protection sunscreens were not altered by the concomitant use of a moisturizing creams applied shortly before and after the sunscreens.

Depth-dependent hydration dynamics in human skin: Vehicle-controlled efficacy assessment of a functional 10% urea plus NMF moisturizer by near-infrared confocal spectroscopic imaging (KOSIM IR) and capacitance method complemented by volunteer perception.

BACKGROUND: Stratum corneum (SC) hydration is vital for the optimal maintenance and appearance of healthy skin. In this context, we evaluated the efficacy of an NMF-enriched moisturizer containing 10% urea on different aspects of SC hydration of dry skin. MATERIAL AND METHODS: In two clinical studies, the hydration efficacy of the moisturizer in comparison to its vehicle was investigated. In the first study, 42 subjects applied the moisturizer and the vehicle to one lower leg each. Thirty minutes and 24 h after this single treatment, SC hydration was measured by corneometry. Volunteers also rated skin moisturization and evaluated product properties. In the second study, 27 subjects each treated one forearm twice daily for 2 weeks with the moisturizer and the vehicle. Then, depth-resolved water-absorption spectra were measured by near-infrared confocal spectroscopic imaging (KOSIM IR). RESULTS: The moisturizer exerted a superior hydrating effect compared to the vehicle. KOSIM IR measurements show that, compared to the vehicle, the moisturizer significantly improved the water gradient in the SC from the surface to a depth of 15 µm. Moreover, the moisturizer received high acceptance ratings from the volunteers and was preferred to the vehicle. CONCLUSION: The humectants applied in the investigated moisturizer improved SC water content in total and as a function of depth. The combination of depth-resolved data (KOSIM IR) with classical corneometry provides an integrated concept in the measurement of skin hydration, rendering both methods complementary. These findings were in line with the volunteers` self-assessments of the moisturizer properties that are relevant to treatment adherence.

A Biomimetic Combination of Actives Enhances Skin Hydration and Barrier Function via Modulation of Gene Expression: Results of Two Double-Blind, Vehicle-Controlled Clinical Studies.

INTRODUCTION: Xerosis cutis is characterized by a decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and an impaired skin barrier function. Urea, the most prevalent natural moisturizing factor (NMF), is currently considered the gold standard. Its efficacy can further be increased by combining urea with other NMF and skin barrier lipids (SBLs). OBJECTIVE: We set out to evaluate physiological effects of a novel functional moisturizer containing 10% urea, additional NMF components, and a combination of SBLs on skin hydration and skin barrier integrity on a cellular and phenotypic level in female volunteers suffering from xerosis. METHODS: Two double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical studies were conducted. In the first study, 44 female subjects having very dry body skin applied the moisturizer or its vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms. Twenty-four hours after a single product application as well as 24 h after 2 weeks of treatment, SC hydration was measured by corneometry. Skin barrier function was assessed by transepidermal water loss 24 h and 48 h after 2 weeks of regular use. Twenty-four hours after 2 weeks of application, skin tape stripping was performed, and urea content was determined in the 3rd strip by means of high-performance liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry. In the second study, 22 women with self-reported very dry skin applied the moisturizer or vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms for 2 weeks. Then, suction blister samples were obtained for gene expression analysis using RT-PCR. RESULTS: Application of the actives led to significantly improved skin hydration and barrier function at all points in time. Compared to the vehicle, application of the moisturizer for 2 weeks resulted in a significant increase in SC urea content. Relative gene expression data revealed significant upregulation of genes associated with skin barrier function, hydration, differentiation, and lipid metabolism compared to the vehicle-treated area. CONCLUSIONS: Overall, our data demonstrate that the functional moisturizer provides an adequate bioavailability of urea and a beneficial biophysical impact on xerotic skin. Topical treatment with a combination of urea and additional NMF as well as SBL can modify mRNA expression of important epidermal genes stimulating cellular processes and functions. The well-tolerated novel functional moisturizer stimulates molecular mechanisms involved in skin hydration and barrier function and is a profoundly effective treatment option for xerosis cutis.

Fermented Angelicae tenussimae with Aspergillus oryzae Improves Skin Barrier Properties, Moisturizing, and Anti-Inflammatory Responses.

Angelicae tenussimae root has been used as a traditional medicine in Asia. Recently, anti-melanogenic and anti-photogenic effects of fermented A. tenuissima root (FAT) were identified. However, information about the anti-atopic dermatitis action of FAT is limited. Thus, the purpose of this study is to determine the applicability of FAT to AD by identifying the efficacy of FAT on the skin barrier and inflammatory response, which are the main pathogenesis of AD. Expression levels of skin barrier components and the production of inflammatory mediators in human keratinocyte and mouse macrophage cells were measured by quantitative RT-PCR or ELISA. FAT upregulated the expression of skin barrier components (filaggrin, involucrin, loricurin, SPTLC1) and inhibited the secretion of an inflammatory chemokine TARC in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, it suppressed pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) and nitric oxide production in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells. In addition, ligustilide increased filaggrin and SPTLC1, and also lowered pro-inflammatory mediators that increased in atopic environments, such as in FAT results. This means that ligustilide, one of the active ingredients derived from FAT, can ameliorate AD, at least in part, by promoting skin barrier formation and downregulating inflammatory mediators. These results suggest that FAT is a potential functional cosmetic material for the care and management of AD.