Modelos avançados de pele humana 3D in vitro: epiderme bioimpressa e pele tricamada contendo hipoderme para avaliação de segurança e mimético de dermatite atópica nocaute de IL-13Rα2 para estudo da função barreira / Advanced in vitro 3D human skin models: bioprinted epidermis and trilayer skin containing hypodermis for safety assessment and atopic dermatitis mimetic with IL-13Rα2 knockout for barrier function study

A reconstrução de modelos avançados de pele tridimensional in vitro, que corresponda de forma mais fidedigna ao complexo microambiente da pele humana, depende da utilização de inovações tecnológicas e da adição de novos tipos celulares representativos da pele humana. Desta maneira, estes miméticos fornecem uma plataforma de alta relevância para estudos de fisiopatologia da pele, além de propiciar um sistema para a avaliação da segurança e eficácia de cosméticos e medicamentos alternativo ao uso de animais. Dessa maneira, o Capítulo I compara a performance de uma epiderme reconstruída humana (RHE) bioimpressa com a manual utilizando o teste in vitro de irritação cutânea descrito no guia OCDE número 439. Nossos resultados demonstram que ambos os modelos de pele exibiram morfologia estratificada e a função barreira epidérmica equivalente aos modelos validados. Nos testes de irritação in vitro, ambos modelos distinguiram corretamente as substâncias de referência, classificadas entre irritantes ou não-irritantes de acordo com o limiar de viabilidade de 50%. Esse resultado indica que a bioimpressora poderia ser de grande utilidade para a automação da reconstrução de modelos epidérmicos. O tecido hipodérmico possui importante papel na homeostase da pele humana. O Capítulo II aborda a reconstrução de uma pele tricamada, contendo a camada hipodérmica, além da epiderme e derme. Usando esferoides de adipócitos diferenciados in vitro, um modelo de pele tricamada em matriz de colágeno foi construído. Ao comparar este com a pele bicamada obtivemos maior expressão de loricrina e involucrina no modelo tricamada, indicando um potencial para maior função barreira, além de maior expressão de PPAR-γ. Testes de função barreira através da resistividade elétrica não demonstraram diferenças entre os modelos, mas a aplicação de SDS a 5 mg/ml por 18 horas induziu o aumento da viabilidade na pele tricamada. Além disso, após a aplicação de SDS a 2,5% para induzir uma irritação aguda, seguida de recuperação por 42h, obtivemos maior viabilidade na pele tricamada, indicando melhor recuperação pós-lesão irritativa induzida. A pele tricamada é promissora para estudos do metabolismo da pele humana e recuperação de lesões. A dermatite atópica (DA) é uma doença eczematosa de pele caracterizada por inflamação do tipo Th2 e alteração da barreira epidérmica. IL-13 e IL-4 são centrais no comprometimento da barreira epidérmica na DA. Entre os receptores de IL-13 em queratinócitos, o receptor IL-13Rα2, tem um papel controverso na alteração da barreira cutânea. O objetivo do Capítulo III foi estudar a deleção da expressão de IL-13Rα2 em RHE, que foram expostas a IL-4 e IL-13, e avaliadas conforme a expressão dos receptores e de proteínas alteradas na DA. As epidermes com knockout em IL-13Rα2 apresentaram redução da expressão de NELL2 (p<0,0021), tipicamente aumentadas na DA. Além disso, houve redução da expressão do receptor do IL-2Rγ. Assim, um possível papel de exacerbação da DA do receptor IL-13Rα2 deve ser estudado mais extensamente para ser caracterizado

The reconstruction of advanced three-dimensional in vitro skin models, which more reliably correspond to the complex microenvironment of human skin, depends on the use of technological innovations and the addition of new cell types representative of human skin.In this way, these mimetics provide a highly relevant platform for studies of skin pathophysiology, in addition to providing a system for evaluating the safety and efficacy of cosmetics and medicines alternative to animal use. In this way, Chapter I compares the performance of a bioprinted human reconstructed epidermis (RHE) with a manual one using the in vitro skin irritation test described in OECD guide number 439. Our results demonstrate that both skin models exhibited stratified morphology and the epidermal barrier function equivalent to validated models. In in vitro irritation tests, both models correctly distinguished the reference substances, classified as irritating or non-irritating according to the viability threshold of 50%. This result indicates that the bioprinter could be of great use for automating the reconstruction of epidermal models Hypodermic tissue plays an important role in the homeostasis of human skin. Chapter II addresses the reconstruction of a three-layer skin, containing the hypodermic layer, in addition to the epidermis and dermis. Using in vitro differentiated adipocyte spheroids, a trilayer skin model in collagen matrix was constructed. When comparing this with bilayer skin, we obtained greater expression of loricrin and involucrin in the trilayer model, indicating a potential for greater barrier function, in addition to greater expression of PPAR-γ . Barrier function tests using electrical resistivity did not demonstrate differences between the models, but the application of SDS at 5 mg/ml for 18 hours induced an increase in viability in the three-layer skin. Furthermore, after applying 2.5% SDS to induce acute irritation, followed by recovery for 42 hours, we obtained greater viability in the three-layer skin, indicating better recovery after induced irritant injury. Trilayer skin holds promise for studies of human skin metabolism and injury recovery. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an eczematous skin disease characterized by Th2-type inflammation and alteration of the epidermal barrier. IL-13 and IL-4 are central to the impairment of the epidermal barrier in AD. Among the IL-13 receptors on keratinocytes, the IL-13Rα2 receptor has a controversial role in altering the skin barrier. The objective of Chapter III was to study the deletion of IL-13Rα2 expression in RHE, which were exposed to IL-4 and IL-13, and evaluated according to the expression of receptors and proteins altered in AD. Epidermis with IL-13Rα2 knockout showed reduced NELL2 expression (p<0.0021), typically increased in AD. Furthermore, there was a reduction in the expression of the IL-2Rγ receptor. Therefore, a possible AD exacerbation role of the IL-13Rα2 receptor should be studied more extensively to be characterized

Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of dihydroquercetin esters

Abstract Flavonoids display various beneficial biological properties, such as antioxidant activity and low cytotoxicity, which make them useful ingredients in foods, pharmaceuticals, and functional cosmetics. In particular, dihydroquercetin (DHQ) is found in various forms, and its derivatives exhibit interesting biological properties. Herein, we report the synthesis of acetylated and butyrylated dihydroquercetin derivatives and their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. The DHQ derivatives were identified using 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies and high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The chemical stabilities of the acetylated dihydroquercetin derivatives were found to depend on the number of acetate groups, with 3,3',4',4,7-pentaacetyldihydroquercetin found to be the most stable acetylated dihydroquercetin. Furthermore, 7,3',4'-triacetyl- dihydroquercetin exhibited potent antioxidant activity, with an IC50 of 56.67 ± 4.79 µg/mL in the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay, with DHQ exhibiting a value of 32.41 ± 3.35 µg/mL. The reactive-oxygen-species-scavenging activity of 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin was highest among the esters in the ferric reducing ability of plasma assay, but lower than that of DHQ. Overall, both DHQ and 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin exhibited antimicrobial behavior against S. aureus and P. acnes using the paper disc assay. DHQ displayed a higher antimicrobial activity, with minimum inhibitory concentrations of 625 µg/mL (P. acnes), 2,500 µg/mL (S. aureus), and 5,000 µg/mL (E. coli). DHQ and acetylated dihydroquercetins are potentially useful as complex antioxidant and antimicrobial materials

Cecropia pachystachya Trécul: a promising ingredient for skin-whitening cosmetics

Abstract Because it promotes the lightening of pigment spots, tyrosinase inhibition is one of the mechanisms of depigmenting cosmetic products. Considering the adverse effects produced by synthetic depigmenting actives, the search for new therapeutic options is desirable, and plant extracts are possible candidates for hyperpigmentation treatment. Glycolic extracts of Cecropia pachystachya Trécul are, therefore, the focus of this study. Its chemical characterization, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and cell viability were evaluated. Glycolic extracts were obtained by macerating the leaves of C. pachystachya in grain alcohol and glycerin or propylene glycol. Both had a similar chemical constitution, the glycerin being more efficient in concentrating phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Analyses by UHPLC-MS detected quinic acid, chlorogenic acid isomers, proanthocyanidin dimers type B and C, catechin/epicatechin, orientin/isoorientin, isoorientin 2"-O-xyloside, vitexin/isovitexin, and rutin. 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid was then quantified was then quantified, with predominance in the extract produced with propylene glycol. These extracts showed a high antioxidant capacity by the method of DPPH, ß-carotene, and nitric oxide. As for depigmenting activity, both extracts were able to inhibit tyrosinase. Cell viability assay also revealed that the extracts could safely be used in concentrations of ≤ 125 µg/mL. Thus, this study demonstrated for the first time that the glycolic extracts of C. pachystachya have promising chemical and biological characteristics for the development of a multifunctional cosmetic with antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibition activities

Physicochemical characterization and cosmetic applications of Passiflora nitida Kunth leaf extract

Abstract Passiflora nitida Kunth, an Amazonian Passiflora species, is little studied, although the specie's high biological potential. Herein the plant's pharmacognostic characterization, extract production, antioxidant potential evaluation, and application of this extract in cosmetic products is reported. The physical chemical parameters analyzed were particle size by sieve analysis, loss through drying, extractive yield, total ash content, laser granulometry, specific surface area and pore diameter (SBET), differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry (TG), and wave dispersive X-Ray fluorescence (WDXRF). Total phenol/flavonoid content, LC-MS/MS analysis, DPPH and ABTS antioxidant radical assays, cytotoxicity, melanin, and tyrosinase inhibition in melanocytes test provided evidence to determine the content of the major constituent. P. nitida dry extract provided a fine powder with mesopores determined by SBET, with the TG curve showing five stages of mass loss. The antioxidant potential ranged between 23.5-31.5 mg∙mL-1 and tyrosinase inhibition between 400-654 µg∙mL-1. The species presented an antimelanogenic effect and an inhibitory activity of cellular tyrosinase (26.6%) at 25 µg/mL. The LC-MS/MS analysis of the spray-dried extract displayed the main and minor phenolic compounds constituting this sample. The results indicate that P. nitida extract has promising features for the development of cosmetic formulations

Antilipoperoxidative and anti-inflammatory efficacy of multifunctional sunscreens containing ferulic acid

Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and UV filters are essential to health, however, traditional sunscreens do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, is been proposed the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations, acting in the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and assisting in cutaneous homeostasis. In the present study, ferulic acid is used in conjunction with two sunscreens, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, for the determination of biosafety and efficacy methods, using techniques that better elucidate the effects of ferulic acid. Skin permeation assays were performed by applying a formulation containing the three substances in the stratum corneum of volunteers, which were removed by the tape stripping method (ex vivo) with follow quantification by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The test was able to evaluate the penetration depth of the substances, characterizing them. In addition, the simultaneous quantification of the three substances was performed by a single and fast method, facilitating their analysis and improving the technique. Also, TBARS (thiobarbituric acid reactive substances) assays were performed in stratum corneum removed by tape stripping (ex vivo), evaluating the potential of cutaneous lipid peroxidation, with or without ferulic acid. To date, it is the first time that TBARS method is used to characterize the stratum corneum (ex vivo) and quantified by HPLC. The protocol developed may aid in the efficacy of antioxidant agents in studies aimed at elucidating the level of lipid peroxidation caused by drugs and cosmetics, and even in carrying out baseline studies characterizing different ethnicities and genders. As last, an anti-inflammatory in vivo assay with Laser Doppler flowmetry equipment was used to compare the sunscreen formulation with or without ferulic acid. Data indicated that the antioxidant reduced the angular coefficient of the perfusion units, mitigating the inflammatory effects. Furthermore, a significant difference was found between the genders, suggesting a more pronounced inflammatory reaction in women. Ferulic acid proved to be a valuable resource, besides being safe and raise the SPF of sunscreens, it also mitigates the effects of inflammation

A exposição crônica desprotegida à radiação ultravioleta (UV) contribui para o desenvolvimento de câncer de pele e os filtros solares são relevantes para evitar tais efeitos prejudiciais, porém, os protetores solares tradicionais não geram proteção suficiente contra o estresse oxidativo cutâneo. Logo, espera-se o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras multifuncionais, atuando não somente na absorção e/ou reflexão da radiação UV, mas, também, auxiliando na homeostase cutânea, com presença de agentes antioxidantes. No presente estudo foi utilizado o ácido ferúlico conjuntamente com dois filtros solares, o bemotrizinol e a triazona de octila, para determinação de métodos de segurança e eficácia, utilizando técnicas que melhor elucidem e comprovem os efeitos do ácido ferúlico. Foram realizados ensaios de permeação cutânea pela aplicação tópica de formulação contendo as três substâncias em voluntários, sendo o estrato córneo retirado pelo método de tape stripping (ex vivo) com subsequente quantificação por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE). O ensaio pôde avaliar a profundidade de penetração das substâncias, caracterizando-as. Ademais, a quantificação simultânea das três substâncias foi efetuada por método único e rápido, facilitando análise com aprimoramento da técnica. Em adição, foi realizado ensaios de TBARS (substâncias reativas ao ácido tiobarbitúrico) em estrato córneo removido por tape stripping (ex vivo), para avaliar o potencial de peroxidação lipídica cutânea, contendo ou não o ácido ferúlico. Até o presente momento, é a primeira vez que o método TBARS é utilizado para caracterização do estrato córneo (ex vivo) e quantificada por CLAE. O protocolo desenvolvido pode auxiliar na eficácia de agentes antioxidantes, em estudos que visam elucidar o nível de peroxidação lipídica causada por medicamentos e cosméticos e, até mesmo, na realização de estudos de base, caracterizando etnias e gêneros. Ademais, um ensaio anti-inflamatório in vivo com equipamento de fluxometria Laser Doppler foi utilizado para comparar a formulação fotoprotetora com ou sem ácido ferúlico. Os dados indicaram que o antioxidante reduziu o coeficiente angular das unidades de perfusão, mitigando os efeitos inflamatórios. Ainda, foi identificada diferença entre os gêneros, sugerindo reação inflamatória mais pronunciada em mulheres. O ácido ferúlico provou ser um recurso valioso, além de ser seguro e elevar o FPS dos fotoprotetores, também atenuando os efeitos da inflamação

Estratégias para identificação e quantificação de aminoácidos tipo micosporinas (MAAs) em cianobactérias e outros organismos para aplicação em cosmética e farmacêutica / Identification and quantification methods of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) in cyanobacteria and other microorganisms for cosmetic and pharmaceutical application

Os aminoácidos tipo micosporinas (MAAs) são compostos, produzidos por algumas espécies de cianobactérias e outros microorganismos, principalmente quando são expostos a radiação ultravioleta (UVR). Estes compostos, que vêm demonstrando funções fotoprotetoras e antioxidantes, têm sido pesquisados para aplicação em protetores solares e em produtos antienvelhecimento. O presente estudo focou na caracterização de cianobactérias e outros organismos quanto à produção de MAAs com potencial aplicação em cosméticos. Neste estudo foram desenvolvidos diversos métodos para identificação (via HPLC-DAD-MS/HRMS), purificação (via HPLC-DAD) e quantificação de MAAs (via LC-MS/MS). Pelo método de identificação de MAAs verificou-se que, das 75 cianobactérias estudadas, 27 cepas (38%) sintetizam MAAs. A cepa Oscilatoria sp. CMMA 1600 produziu a maior diversidade de MAAs. 10 MAAs diferentes foram identificados incluindo um MAA de massa molecular 316 Da. Através de dados espectroscópicos obtidos via HPLC-DAD-HRMS e RMN 1D e 2D confirmou-se que se tratava da micosporina-glicina-alanina. A biossíntese natural deste composto por cianobactérias foi relatada pela primeira vez neste estudo. Quanto à quantificação de MAAs, o protocolo de extração otimizado possibilitou uma excelente recuperação dos compostos de interesse, além de ser bastante simples e não utilizar solventes poluentes. As análises via LC-MS/MS foram realizadas através de experimentos de MRM em modo positivo usando uma coluna de fase reversa. O método validado permitiu determinar e quantificar com precisão os MAAs porphyra-334, shinorina e micosporina-glicina-alanina em corridas de apenas 6 minutos, com limites de deteção inferiores a 0,005 µg.mg -1. Aplicando o método de LC-MS/MS realizaram experimentos de indução de MAAs através de exposição à UVR tendo-se observado um aumento da concentração de MAAs nas cepas que já sintetizam estes compostos e, outras cepas começaram a produzir pelo menos um MAA. As cepas de S. torques-reginae (ITEP-024 e ITEP-026) produziram a maior concentração de MAAs. A cepa ITEP-024 foi ainda exposta a diferentes radiações tendo-se observado que a UVB é que mais influencia a produção de MAAs. Neste estudo foi demonstrado o potencial das cianobactérias como produtores de MAAs que podem ser utilizados como fotoprotores em protetores solares

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UV-absorbing compounds produced by cyanobacteria and other organisms, especially upon exposer to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These compounds are photoprotective and some have additional antioxidant functíons useful to the natural cosmetics market. This study aims to identify MAAs-producing cyanobacteria with potential applicatíons in cosmetics. A HPLC-DAD-MS/HRMS method for the identification of MAAs was developed. Out of the 75 cyanobacteria studied, 27 strains (38%) synthesized MAAs. Oscilatoria sp. CMMA 1600, from homocyte type, produced the greatest diversity of MAAs. 10 different MAAs were identified including a MAA with molecular weight of 316 Da. The chemical structure of mycosporine-glycine-alanine was confirmed by 1D/2D NMR and HRMS analyses. This compound has never been reported from a natural source. In this study, a validated LC-MS/MS quantification method for MAAs is also presented. An easy-to-handle and rapid extraction procedure was developed which uses only water and volatile additives as the extractor solvents. The LC-MS/MS method was performed using multiple reaction monitoring in positive mode with a reverse-phase column. The method enabled the accurate determination and quantification of the MAAs porphyra-334, shinorine and mycosporine-glycine-alanine in a 6 minutes running time, with limits of detection < 0.005 µg.mg-1. MAAs induction experiments were performed through UVR exposure. MAAs are constitutively produced by some cyanobacteria and production was further enhanced following UVirradiance. Other strains start to produce at least one MAA after UV-irradiance. Sphaerospermopsis torques-reginae strain (ITEP-024 and ITEP-026) produced the highest concentration of these photoprotective compounds. S. torques-reginae ITEP 024 strain was further exposed to different radiation compositíons. MAAs were significantly influenced by UVB. In this study, the potential of cyanobacteria as MAA producers, that can be used as photoprotectors in sunscreens, has been demonstrated

Cosmetic Versus Medicine: How Does Your Country Define Sunscreen?

Skin cancer (melanoma and non-melanoma) is the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the United States of America, and non-melanoma skin cancer is the most common cause of Australian hospitalisations with cancer as the principle diagnosis, having a huge cost to the country's health care system. Primary and secondary skin cancer prevention is globally inadequate, with only 3 in 10 American adults using sun protection routinely. Evidence suggests that regular sunscreen use in Australians prevents both melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers, and American research has found that daily sunscreen use reduced the incidence of melanoma - the most skin cancer deaths - by half. Despite this, in many countries and regions around the world, a major ongoing divergence remains on the classification of sunscreen as either a cosmetic product or a form of medical therapy, which in turn affects the consumers' attitudes towards the use of sunscreen. This is also affected by the increasing use of the internet, which has made the purchasing of products internationally convenient and easy for consumers worldwide, including sunscreen products, which are frequently marketed online. There is variation between each country or region and their regulations of sunscreen affect the consequent labelling claims of sunscreen products. This affects the unsuspecting consumer's choices in purchasing sun protection, which may be misinformed. Australia, Canada, and the US are the only countries to classify sunscreen as a form of medical therapy. This paper explores the current classification of sunscreen products in countries and regions around the world and discusses the impact of these discrepancies and similarities on the attitudes of consumers towards sunscreen use. Finally, we make suggestions on changes that can be made to encourage sunscreen use and safe sunscreen purchasing. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(8):899-904.

Development of sunscreen products containing passion fruit seed extract

Abstract Application of sunscreen is the most established method of protecting skin from premature aging and photoaging. In this study, the passion fruit seed extract, enriched with biologically beneficial phenolics, was formulated into sun-protective makeup product. The UVB protection of concealer mousse was found have twofold higher sun protection factor (SPF) than the liquid foundation (15.48 ± 1.60 and 5.88 ± 0.30, respectively). The SPF of concealer mousse as well as the liquid foundation containing 0.1% and 0.3% of the passion fruit seed extract were 18.75 ± 0.28, 18.99 ± 0.71 and 9.32 ± 0.88, 9.77 ± 1.37, respectively. Therefore, the concealers with a similar sun-protective efficacy (p>0.05) were included for stability test accordingly. The sun-protective efficacy did not significantly shift (p>0.05) because the 0.1% and 0.3% passion fruit extract concealers had SPF of 18.09 ± 1.48 and 18.60 ± 1.21. The concealers exhibited UVA photoprotection with a boot star rating of 4 and a critical wavelength wider than 370 nm. The safety of 0.1% passion fruit extract concealer mousse was assessed. It did not cause skin irritation when assessed in human volunteers. This sunscreen makeup product provides UVA and UVB protection and is therefore suitable for daily application.

Guava: phytochemical composition of a potential source of antioxidants for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications

ABSTRACT Guava (Psidium guajava L.) is a native fruit of the American tropics with commercial applications for its taste, flavor and aroma. Numerous pharmacological uses have been described for it, such as the antiseptic effect of its leaves, the use of the fresh fruit and tea from its leaves for the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, diabetes mellitus, and others. However, considering its rich composition, the guava also is a potential source of antioxidants to be used in the development of new formulations for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications, the main focus of this research. Herein, we describe the study of the phytochemical composition and the antioxidant activity of a guava extract prepared with non-toxic solvents aiming its use at biological applications. High performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry were employed to identify the major components, while thermoanalytical measurements and hot stage microscopy were used to assess the chemical stability of guava fruit extract. The antioxidant activity was also evaluated assessing the SOD-like activity and ABTS free radical scavenger. The results show that the extract is a rich source of phenolic compounds, such as quercetin, kaempferol, schottenol, among many others. All of the components found in guava extract exhibit biological effects according to the literature data, mainly antioxidant properties.

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L. ) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.

Ácido ferúlico em protetores solares: desenvolvimento e eficácia multifuncional in vitro, ex vivo e in vivo / Ferulic acid in sunscreens: development and multifunctional effectiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo

A conscientização da população com relação aos malefícios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) levaram à adoção de hábitos preventivos, com destaque para a utilização diária de formulações fotoprotetoras. Ainda que os filtros solares tradicionais sejam efetivos na absorção ou reflexão da radiação UV, sabe-se que a sua atuação contra os radicais livres é limitada, fator que exige a incorporação de compostos antioxidantes às preparações, visando proteção cutânea de excelência. O presente trabalho objetivou o desenvolvimento e avaliação de formulações multifuncionais contendo os filtros solares bemotrizinol e octil triazona, acrescidos do composto bioativo ácido ferúlico - reconhecido pelas suas propriedades antioxidante e fotoprotetora. As formulações foram desenvolvidas de acordo com um delineamento experimental do tipo fatorial (DoE 23) e avaliadas por meio de metodologias in vitro, in vivo e ex vivo para determinação de sua eficácia fotoprotetora e potencial antioxidante. As emulsões foram consideradas estáveis, seguras, com valor de pH biocompatível com a pele e viscosidade aparente adequada ao uso proposto. O delineamento experimental comprovou o potencial antioxidante e fotoprotetor do ácido ferúlico, visto que a presença deste promoveu aumento de até 90% na atividade antioxidante in vitro das formulações, bem como acréscimo de 32% no Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) in vivo e 24% no Fator de Proteção UVA (UVA-PF). Por meio do ensaio ex vivo, a formulação contendo o ácido ferúlico apresentou tendência em aumentar a atividade antioxidante natural da pele, comparativamente à formulação contendo apenas os filtros solares e à pele não tratada; ademais, houve queda no potencial antioxidante da pele após a exposição à radiação UV, enfatizando a necessidade de proteção cutânea frente aos danos oxidativos. Os resultados comprovaram os efeitos antioxidante e fotoprotetor combinados do ácido ferúlico, em especial quando em sinergismo com filtros solares, tornando o composto bioativo um candidato promissor no desenvolvimento de formulações multifuncionais inovadoras, seguras e eficazes contra os efeitos nocivos decorrentes da exposição solar

The public awareness regarding the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation led to preventive habits, especially the daily use of sunscreens. Although traditional solar filters are effective in UV radiation absorption or reflection, it is known that their activity against free radicals is restricted, an aspect that requires the incorporation of antioxidants to preparations, aiming superior skin protection. Here, we developed and evaluated multifunctional formulations containing the sunscreens bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone plus the bioactive compound ferulic acid - known for its antioxidant and photoprotective properties. Formulations were developed according to a factorial experimental design (DoE 23) and evaluated using in vitro, in vivo and ex vivo methods to determine its photoprotective effectiveness and antioxidant potential. The emulsions were considered stable, safe, with pH value biocompatible with the skin and apparent viscosity suitable for the proposed use. The experimental design evidenced the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of ferulic acid, once its presence increased to 90% the in vitro antioxidant activity of the formulations, as well as 32% increase in the in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and 24% increase in the UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). Through the ex vivo assay, the formulation containing ferulic acid tended to increase the natural antioxidant activity of the skin, compared to the formulation containing only UV filters or the untreated skin; moreover, there was a decrease in the antioxidant potential of the skin after UV radiation exposure, emphasizing the need for skin protection against oxidative damage. The results confirmed the antioxidant and photoprotective effects of ferulic acid, especially when in synergy with UV filters, making the bioactive compound a promising candidate in the development of innovative, safe and effective multifunctional formulations against the harmful effects of sun exposure

Evaluation of toxic endpoints for a set of cosmetic ingredients with CAESAR models.

The randomly selected set of 558 chemicals from Cosmetic inventory was studied with internet accessible program package CAESAR. Four toxic endpoints were considered: mutagenicity, carcinogenicity, developmental toxicity and skin sensitization. The CAESAR program provides beside the predictions comprehensive information on applicability domain and the similarity between the considered compound and the compounds from model's training set. This information was used to implement for clustering and classification of chemicals. As the technique the Self Organizing Maps was applied. This technique also enables us to define to each cluster the cluster indicator, i.e., the characteristic compound, which is considered as a representative for a cluster.

Method for detecting the reactivity of chemicals towards peptides as an alternative test method for assessing skin sensitization potential.

Cosmetics are normally composed of various ingredients. Some cosmetic ingredients can act as chemical haptens reacting toward proteins or peptides of human skin and they can provoke an immunologic reaction, called as skin sensitization. This haptenation process is very important step of inducing skin sensitization and evaluating the sensitizing potentials of cosmetic ingredients is very important for consumer safety. Therefore, animal alternative methods focusing on monitoring haptenation potential are undergoing vigorous research. To examine the further usefulness of spectrophotometric methods to monitor reactivity of chemicals toward peptides for cosmetic ingredients. Forty chemicals (25 sensitizers and 15 non-sensitizers) were reacted with 2 synthetic peptides, e.g., the cysteine peptides (Ac-RFAACAA-COOH) with free thiol group and the lysine peptides (Ac-RFAAKAA-COOH) with free amine group. Unreacted peptides can be detected after incubating with 5,5'-dithiobis-2-nitrobenzoic acid or fluorescamine™ as detection reagents for free thiol and amine group, respectively. Chemicals were categorized as sensitizers when they induced more than 10% depletion of cysteine peptides or more than 30% depletion of lysine peptides. The sensitivity, specificity, and accuracy were 80.0%, 86.7% and 82.5%, respectively. These results demonstrate that spectrophotometric methods can be an easy, fast, and high-throughput screening tools predicting the skin sensitization potential of chemical including cosmetic ingredient.

[Assessment of the sensitizing potency of cosmetic ingredients and commodities. How will the ingredients of cosmetics and commodities be tested in Europe today and tomorrow?]. / Bewertung des sensibilisierenden Potenzials von Stoffen in Kosmetika und Bedarfsgegenständen. Wie werden Inhaltsstoffe von Kosmetika und Bedarfsgegenständen heute und morgen in Europa getestet?

Cosmetics and certain commodities are applied or used by consumers directly on the skin. Creams may remain on the skin for longer periods, hair is dyed multiple times per year, nickel ions can be released from studs and piercings in areas of skin damage or migrate from toy materials into the skin of children. Accordingly, using or handling such products always entails a risk for developing a contact allergy. Moreover, daily usage and repeated contacts to certain cosmetics and commodities might lead to repeated elicitation of contact eczema in people already sensitized against allergenic ingredients. Unfortunately, contact allergy is not curable. For the assessment of the allergenic potential of chemicals, only testing based on animal experiments was available in the past. In 2003, the 7(th) amendment of the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EWG laid down a ban on animal testing of cosmetic ingredients and from 2013 a general marketing ban of such products as well. Therefore, the development and validation of non-animal methods for assessing the toxicological endpoint sensitization/allergenic potency of chemicals is a major task for the years ahead and remains equally a challenge for industry and regulatory agencies.

Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts

The aim of this work was to evaluate the innovative performance of herbal extracts applied in cosmetics area, based on information collected from Brazilian, American and European patent banks. Analysis were carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits from each database, the patent applicants profiles, the companies with most patent applications, and also the main uses of herbal extracts in cosmetics. Based on the results achieved, the number of patents filed at the Brazilian patent bank is much lower than that observed in American and European patent banks. Although the number of patents is limited, the analysis indicated a range of cosmetic applications that acts according to the international market trend, represented by a large number of multifunctional products.

O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o cenário da inovação referente a extratos vegetais aplicados no setor de cosméticos, com base em informações extraídas dos bancos de patentes brasileiro, americano e europeu. Foram realizadas análises para avaliar o número de depósitos de patentes de cada banco de dados, o perfil dos depositantes, as empresas com maior número de registros de patentes, e também as principais aplicações dos extratos vegetais descritos nos documentos. Com base nos resultados obtidos, o número de patentes depositadas no banco de patentes brasileiro é muito inferior ao observado nos bancos de patentes americano e europeu. No entanto, embora o número de patentes seja limitado, as análises indicaram uma variedade de aplicações cosméticas que agem de acordo com a tendência do mercado internacional, representada por um número elevado de produtos multifuncionais.

Which plant for which skin disease? Part 2: Dermatophytes, chronic venous insufficiency, photoprotection, actinic keratoses, vitiligo, hair loss, cosmetic indications.

This paper continues our review of scientifically evaluated plant extracts in dermatology. After plants effective against dermatophytes, botanicals with anti-edema effects in chronic venous insufficiency are discussed. There is good evidence from randomized clinical studies that plant extracts from grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), sea pine (Pinus maritima) and butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus) can reduce edema in chronic venous insufficiency. Plant extracts from witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), green tea (Camellia sinensis), the fern Polypodium leucotomos and others contain antioxidant polyphenolic compounds that may protect the skin from sunburn and photoaging when administered topically or systemically. Extracts from the garden spurge (Euphorbia peplus) and from birch bark (Betula alba) have been shown to be effective in the treatment of actinic keratoses in phase II studies. Some plant extracts have also been investigated in the treatment of vitiligo, various forms of hair loss and pigmentation disorders, and in aesthetic dermatology.

Final report on the safety assessment of aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium trisilicate, sodium magnesium silicate, zirconium silicate, attapulgite, bentonite, Fuller's earth, hectorite, kaolin, lithium magnesium silicate, lithium magnesium sodium silicate, montmorillonite, pyrophyllite, and zeolite.

This report reviews the safety of Aluminum, Calcium, Lithium Magnesium, Lithium Magnesium Sodium, Magnesium Aluminum, Magnesium, Sodium Magnesium, and Zirconium Silicates, Magnesium Trisilicate, Attapulgite, Bentonite, Fuller's Earth, Hectorite, Kaolin, Montmorillonite, Pyrophyllite, and Zeolite as used in cosmetic formulations. The common aspect of all these claylike ingredients is that they contain silicon, oxygen, and one or more metals. Many silicates occur naturally and are mined; yet others are produced synthetically. Typical cosmetic uses of silicates include abrasive, opacifying agent, viscosity-increasing agent, anticaking agent, emulsion stabilizer, binder, and suspending agent. Clay silicates (silicates containing water in their structure) primarily function as adsorbents, opacifiers, and viscosity-increasing agents. Pyrophyllite is also used as a colorant. The International Agency for Research on Cancer has ruled Attapulgite fibers >5 microm as possibly carcinogenic to humans, but fibers <5 microm were not classified as to their carcinogenicity to humans. Likewise, Clinoptilolite, Phillipsite, Mordenite, Nonfibrous Japanese Zeolite, and synthetic Zeolites were not classified as to their carcinogenicity to humans. These ingredients are not significantly toxic in oral acute or short-term oral or parenteral toxicity studies in animals. Inhalation toxicity, however, is readily demonstrated in animals. Particle size, fibrogenicity, concentration, and mineral composition had the greatest effect on toxicity. Larger particle size and longer and wider fibers cause more adverse effects. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate was a weak primary skin irritant in rabbits and had no cumulative skin irritation in guinea pigs. No gross effects were reported in any of these studies. Sodium Magnesium Silicate had no primary skin irritation in rabbits and had no cumulative skin irritation in guinea pigs. Hectorite was nonirritating to the skin of rabbits in a Draize primary skin irritation study. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate and Sodium Magnesium Silicate caused minimal eye irritation in a Draize eye irritation test. Bentonite caused severe iritis after injection into the anterior chamber of the eyes of rabbits and when injected intralamellarly, widespread corneal infiltrates and retrocorneal membranes were recorded. In a primary eye irritation study in rabbits, Hectorite was moderately irritating without washing and practically nonirritating to the eye with a washout. Rats tolerated a single dose of Zeolite A without any adverse reaction in the eye. Calcium Silicate had no discernible effect on nidation or on maternal or fetal survival in rabbits. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate had neither a teratogenic nor adverse effects on the mouse fetus. Female rats receiving a 20% Kaolin diet exhibited maternal anemia but no significant reduction in birth weight of the pups was recorded. Type A Zeolite produced no adverse effects on the dam, embryo, or fetus in either rats or rabbits at any dose level. Clinoptilolite had no effect on female rat reproductive performance. These ingredients were not genotoxic in the Ames bacterial test system. In primary hepatocyte cultures, the addition of Attapulgite had no significant unscheduled DNA synthesis. Attapulgite did cause significant increases in unscheduled DNA synthesis in rat pleural mesothelial cells, but no significant increase in sister chromosome exchanges were seen. Zeolite particles (<10 microm) produced statistically significant increase in the percentage of aberrant metaphases in human peripheral blood lymphocytes and cells collected by peritoneal lavage from exposed mice. Topical application of Magnesium Aluminum Silicate to human skin daily for 1 week produced no adverse effects. Occupational exposure to mineral dusts has been studied extensively. Fibrosis and pneumoconiosis have been documented in workers involved in the mining and processing of Aluminum Silicate, Calcium Silicate, Zirconium Silicate, Fuller's Earth, Kaolin, Montmorillonite, Pyrophyllite, and Zeolite. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that the extensive pulmonary damage in humans was the result of direct occupational inhalation of the dusts and noted that lesions seen in animals were affected by particle size, fiber length, and concentration. The Panel considers that most of the formulations are not respirable and of the preparations that are respirable, the concentration of the ingredient is very low. Even so, the Panel considered that any spray containing these solids should be formulated to minimize their inhalation. With this admonition to the cosmetics industry, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe as currently used in cosmetic formulations. The Panel did note that the cosmetic ingredient, Talc, is a hydrated magnesium silicate. Because it has a unique crystalline structure that differs from ingredients addressed in this safety assessment, Talc is not included in this report.