Assessing the Fate of Benzophenone-Type UV Filters and Transformation Products during Soil Aquifer Treatment: The Biofilm Compartment as Bioaccumulator and Biodegrader in Porous Media.

The fate of selected UV filters (UVFs) was investigated in two soil aquifer treatment (SAT) systems, one supplemented with a reactive barrier containing clay and vegetable compost and the other as a traditional SAT reference system. We monitored benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and its transformation products (TPs), including benzophenone-1 (BP-1), 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone (4DHB), 4-hydroxybenzophenone (4HB), and 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (DHMB), along with benzophenone-4 (BP-4) and avobenzone (AVO) in all involved compartments (water, aquifer sediments, and biofilm). The reactive barrier, which enhances biochemical activity and biofilm development, improved the removal of all detected UVFs in water samples. Among monitored UVFs, only 4HB, BP-4, and AVO were detected in sediment and biofilm samples. But the overall retained amounts were several orders of magnitude larger than those dissolved. These amounts were quantitatively reproduced with a specifically developed simple analytical model that consists of a mobile compartment and an immobile compartment. Retention and degradation are restricted to the immobile water compartment, where biofilm absorption was simulated with well-known compound-specific Kow values. The fact that the model reproduced observations, including metabolites detected in the biofilm but not in the (mobile) water samples, supports its validity. The results imply that accumulation ensures significant biodegradation even if the degradation rates are very low and suggest that our experimental findings for UVFs and TPs can be extended to other hydrophobic compounds. Biofilms act as accumulators and biodegraders of hydrophobic compounds.

Evaluation of antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive activities of Marcetia macrophylla extract: potential for formulation of sunscreens / Avaliação da atividade antioxidante, photoprotetora e antinociceptiva de Marcetia macrophylla: potencial formulação fotoprotetora

The antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive Marcetia macrophylla active extract was investigated as an active ingredient in a sunscreen cream formulation. Thus, the M. macrophylla extract showed IC50 of 3.43 mg/ml of the antioxidant (DPPH∙ scavenging test) and Sun Protection Factor of 20.25 (SPF/UV-B, at 250 µg/ml) and UV-A of 78.09% (photobleaching trans-resveratrol test). The antinociceptive activity was superior to all standards tested using the in vivo acetic acid-induced writhing test (99.14% at the dose of 200 mg/kg) and the high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and mass spectroscopy multi-stage (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS) enabled the structural characterization of the quercetin-3-O-hexoside, quercetin-3-O-pentoside and quercetin-3-O-desoxihexoside. The pharmaceutical formulation containing the Marcetia macrophylla crude active extract was prepared and the physicochemical tests (organoleptic characteristics, pH analysis and centrifugation), the in vitro UVB (sun protection factor, SPF) and UVA (β-carotene) using the spectroscopic method were investigated. The formulation showed satisfactory results concerning the physicochemical parameters evaluated and active against the UV test. Thus, M. macrophylla showed biological activities with potential use in pharmaceutical preparations.

O extrato bruto de Marcetia macrophylla mostrou atividade antioxidante, fotoprotetora e antinociceptiva, sendo em seguida investigado como ingrediente ativo em uma formulação fotoprotetora. Assim, o extrato de M. macrophylla apresentou atividade antioxidante com IC50 de 3,43 mg/mL (teste de sequestro do DPPH∙) e Fator de Proteção Solar de 20,25 (FPS/UV-B, 250 µg/mL) e UV-A de 78,09% (teste de fotobranqueamento do trans-resveratrol). A atividade antinociceptiva usando o teste in vivo de contorções abdominais induzidas por ácido acético foi superior a todos os padrões testados (99,14% na dose de 200 mg/Kg). A análise por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência acoplada a detector de fotodiodos e espectroscopia de massas multi-estágio (CLAE-DAD-EM/EM) possibilitou a caracterização dos flavonoides quercetina-3-O-hexosídeo, quercetina-3-O-pentosídeo e quercetina-3-O-desoxihexosídeo. A formulação farmacêutica contendo o extrato ativo bruto de Marcetia macrophylla foi preparada e os testes físico-químicos (características organolépticas, análise de pH e centrifugação), o UVB in vitro (fator de proteção solar, FPS) e UVA (β-caroteno) foram investigados. A formulação apresentou resultados satisfatórios frente aos parâmetros físico-químicos avaliados e ativos contra UV. Assim, M. macrophylla apresentou atividades biológicas com potencial uso em preparações fitofarmacêuticas.

From sunscreens to medicines: Can a dissipation hypothesis explain the beneficial aspects of many plant compounds?

Medicine has utilised plant-based treatments for millennia, but precisely how they work is unclear. One approach is to use a thermodynamic viewpoint that life arose by dissipating geothermal and/or solar potential. Hence, the ability to dissipate energy to maintain homeostasis is a fundamental principle in all life, which can be viewed as an accretion system where layers of complexity have built upon core abiotic molecules. Many of these compounds are chromophoric and are now involved in multiple pathways. Plants have further evolved a plethora of chromophoric compounds that can not only act as sunscreens and redox modifiers, but also have now become integrated into a generalised stress adaptive system. This could be an extension of the dissipative process. In animals, many of these compounds are hormetic, modulating mitochondria and calcium signalling. They can also display anti-pathogen effects. They could therefore modulate bioenergetics across all life due to the conserved electron transport chain and proton gradient. In this review paper, we focus on well-described medicinal compounds, such as salicylic acid and cannabidiol and suggest, at least in animals, their activity reflects their evolved function in plants in relation to stress adaptation, which itself evolved to maintain dissipative homeostasis.

Development of a Phytocosmetic Enriched with Pequi (Caryocar brasiliense Cambess) Oil

Abstract The pulp oil of Caryocar brasiliense Camb., better known as pequi, is used in the typical cuisine of the Brazilian Cerrado region. It is also used in folk medicine to combat several types of disease of the respiratory system and skin. However, since its exploration is purely extractive, the exhaustion of this plant is already foreseen. Thus, in order to establish the sustainable use of pequi and contribute to its maintenance, this study aimed to develop a phytocosmetic with antioxidant and photoprotective properties using the oil of this fruit. Initially, the cytotoxicity of the oil was evaluated in order to establish the safety of its use and its fatty acid composition. Then, from the cream enriched with the oil, it was evaluated the antioxidant and photoprotector potentials, quantified the total phenolic content and examined the quality of the formulation. Pequi oil showed high percentages of palmitic (52.11%) and oleic (44.57%) fatty acids and absence of cytotoxicity. The analysis of the cream revealed 168.8 mg of total phenols in gallic acid equivalent per 100 g of oil. The evaluation of antioxidant activity showed an EC50 of 2.921 mg/mL and a capacity of inhibiting the lipoperoxidation process higher than 100%. The obtained sun protection factor was 11.40 at the concentration of 6.25 mg/mL. The quality tests revealed small disturbances in the cream stability that can be solved by further research and improvement of the formulation. The pequi oil can be converted into a phytocosmetic of great commercial value.

Reliable and simple spectrophotometric determination of sun protection factor: A case study using organic UV filter-based sunscreen products.

BACKGROUND: Current in vitro SPF screening method for plant oil body (oleosome)-based SPF products possesses significant inconsistency and low reliability in the SPF rating. OBJECTIVES: The primary objective of this study was to evaluate the reliability and reproducibility of spectrophotometrically determined sun protection factor (SPF) from oleosome-based SPF products. The secondary objective was the data comparison of the spectrophotometric measurements against in vivo SPF testing to establish a reliable in vitro test method as a screening assay. METHODS: Octyl methoxycinnamate (UVB filter) and avobenzone (UVA filter) were loaded into safflower oil bodies and formulated into oil-in-water emulsion-based finished products. To evaluate the reliability between in vivo and spectrophotometric test methods, samples were dispatched to a clinical laboratory, and the reported SPF values were compared with spectrophotometric test results. RESULTS: The observed SPF from the in vivo and spectrophotometric test results demonstrated a high correlation for SPF 30 products. Proportional correlation between the two evaluation methods was observed for SPF 15 and 50 products with slightly lesser accuracy with a smaller number of population tested in the clinical studies. CONCLUSIONS: A reliable spectrophotometric screening method for oil body-based SPF formulas has been developed using two broadly used organic UV sunscreen actives as a case study. The results demonstrated a high level of reproducibility and reliability compared to the US FDA-guided in vivo SPF testing method.

Development of sunscreen products containing passion fruit seed extract

Abstract Application of sunscreen is the most established method of protecting skin from premature aging and photoaging. In this study, the passion fruit seed extract, enriched with biologically beneficial phenolics, was formulated into sun-protective makeup product. The UVB protection of concealer mousse was found have twofold higher sun protection factor (SPF) than the liquid foundation (15.48 ± 1.60 and 5.88 ± 0.30, respectively). The SPF of concealer mousse as well as the liquid foundation containing 0.1% and 0.3% of the passion fruit seed extract were 18.75 ± 0.28, 18.99 ± 0.71 and 9.32 ± 0.88, 9.77 ± 1.37, respectively. Therefore, the concealers with a similar sun-protective efficacy (p>0.05) were included for stability test accordingly. The sun-protective efficacy did not significantly shift (p>0.05) because the 0.1% and 0.3% passion fruit extract concealers had SPF of 18.09 ± 1.48 and 18.60 ± 1.21. The concealers exhibited UVA photoprotection with a boot star rating of 4 and a critical wavelength wider than 370 nm. The safety of 0.1% passion fruit extract concealer mousse was assessed. It did not cause skin irritation when assessed in human volunteers. This sunscreen makeup product provides UVA and UVB protection and is therefore suitable for daily application.

UV-protective effects of phytoecdysteroids from Microsorum grossum extracts on human dermal fibroblasts.

Microsorum grossum (Polypodiaceae), locally called metuapua'a, is one of the most frequently used fern species in Polynesian traditional medicine. Fronds or rhizomes of this species are common ingredients of popular medicine recipes to cure various ailments. M. grossum frond and rhizome extracts contain, as their main bioactive components, phytoecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, known to have many interesting biological activities and considered to be adaptogenic compounds [1]. The skin-active effect of M. grossum extract was investigated in two ways on human dermal fibroblasts: a transcriptomic study with c-DNA array for gene expression modulation and a Stress Induced Premature Senescence (SIPS) test. The total extract of M. grossum up-regulates Heme Oxygenase 1 (HO1), an enzyme which protects cells from oxidative stress and which is responsible for skin photoimmunoprotection. The present paper also reports that premature senescence of human skin induced by repeated UV irradiations can be prevented by an ecdysteroid fraction of M. grossum. Our data indicate that extracts of M. grossum could protect skin against oxidative stresses and suggest that they could be used as innovative active cosmetic ingredients.

Phenolic composition, antioxidant, anti-wrinkles and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of cocoa pod extract.

BACKGROUND: Cocoa pod is an outer part of cocoa fruits being discarded during cocoa bean processing. Authors found out that data on its usage in literature as cosmetic materials was not recorded in vast. In this study, cocoa pod extract was investigated for its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. METHODS: Cocoa pod extract (CPE) composition was accomplished using UHPLC. The antioxidant capacity were measured using scavenging assay of 1,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ß-carotene bleaching assay (BCB) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP). Inhibiting effect on skin degradation enzymes was carried out using elastase and collagenase assays. The skin whitening effect of CPE was determined based on mushroom tyrosinase assay and sun screening effect (UV-absorbance at 200-400 nm wavelength). RESULTS: LC-MS/MS data showed the presence of carboxylic acid, phenolic acid, fatty acid, flavonoids (flavonol and flavones), stilbenoids and terpenoids in CPE. Results for antioxidant activity exhibited that CPE possessed good antioxidant activity, based on the mechanism of the assays compared with ascorbic acid (AA) and standardized pine bark extract (PBE); DPPH: AA > CPE > PBE; FRAP: PBE > CPE > AA; and BCB: BHT > CPE > PBE. Cocoa pod extract showed better action against elastase and collagenase enzymes in comparison with PBE and AA. Higher inhibition towards tyrosinase enzyme was exhibited by CPE than kojic acid and AA, although lower than PBE. CPE induced proliferation when tested on human fibroblast cell at low concentration. CPE also exhibited a potential as UVB sunscreen despite its low performance as a UVA sunscreen agent. CONCLUSIONS: Therefore, the CPE has high potential as a cosmetic ingredient due to its anti-wrinkle, skin whitening, and sunscreen effects.

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB.

Patch test reactions associated with sunscreen products and the importance of testing to an expanded series: retrospective analysis of North American Contact Dermatitis Group data, 2001 to 2010.

BACKGROUND: Both active and inactive ingredients in sunscreen may cause contact dermatitis. OBJECTIVES: This study aimed to describe allergens associated with a sunscreen source. METHODS: A cross-sectional analysis of patients patch tested by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group between 2001 and 2010 was performed. RESULTS: Of 23,908 patients patch tested, 219 (0.9%) had sunscreen coded as an allergen source. Patients who were male, with occupational dermatitis, or older (older than 40 years) had significantly lower rates of allergic reactions to sunscreens; the most commonly affected areas were the face and exposed sites (P < 0.0001). The top 3 most frequent allergens in sunscreens were benzophenone-3 (70.2% for 10% concentration, 64.4% for 3% concentration), DL-alpha-tocopherol (4.8%), and fragrance mix I (4.0%). Less than 40% of positive patch test reactions were detected by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group screening series of 65 to 70 allergens. CONCLUSIONS: A supplemental antigen series is important in detecting allergy to sunscreens.

El extracto acuoso de Phyllanthus orbicularis K protege al ADN plasmídico del daño inducido por las radiaciones ultravioletas / Phyllanthus orbicularis K aqueous extract protect plasmid DNA against the damage induced by ultraviolet radiation

Objetivo: Evaluar el efecto protector del extracto acuoso de Phyllanthus orbicularis, K ante el daño inducido por las radiaciones UVB y UVC. Material y métodos: Se empleó el ensayo con ADN plasmídico (pBluescript SK II) libre de célula. Se evaluó la capacidad del extracto acuoso de P. orbicularis de inducir roturas de cadenas en el plásmido, a las concentraciones 0,0001-2,0 mg/ml. Se realizaron estudios de protección del extracto frente a las radiaciones UVB y UVC a las concentraciones de 0,1-2,0 mg/ml. Se cuantificó la transmitancia del extracto frente ambos tipos de radiaciones. Resultados: Ninguna de las concentraciones evaluadas resultó genotóxica en 30 min de exposición. Las concentraciones ≥ 1 mg/ml de P. Obicularis sí indujeron roturas de cadenas a tiempos mayores de evaluación. El extracto de P. Orbicularis protegió al ADN frente a las radiaciones UVB y UVC a concentraciones ≥ 0,1 mg/ml y 0,5 mg/ml respectivamente. Conclusiones: En nuestras condiciones experimentales, el extracto acuoso de P. Orbicularis proteg eal ADN frente al daño inducido por las radiaciones UV (AU)

Aim: The aim of this work was to evaluate the protective effect of aqueous extract of Phyllanthus Orbicularis, K from the damage induced by UV radiation. Material and methods: The plasmid-based non cellular system was used. The extract capacity to induce DNA strand breaks was evaluated at 0.0001- 2.0 mg/ml concentrations. The protective effect of extract against UVB and UVC radiation was evaluated at 0.1- 2.0 mg/ml concentrations. The transmittance of extract was measured for both UV radiations. Results: The P. orbicularis aqueous extract was not genotoxic even after 30 min of exposure. Concentrations ≥ 1 mg/ml of extract induced strand breaks at major times of exposition. P. Orbicularis extract protected DNA against UVB and UVC radiation at concentrations ≥ 0.1 mg/ml and 0.5 mg/ml respectively. Conclusions: In our experimental conditions, P. Orbicularis aqueous extract protects DNA from damage induced by UV radiation (AU)

Characterization of physicochemical properties of ivy nanoparticles for cosmetic application.

BACKGROUND: Naturally occurring nanoparticles isolated from English ivy (Hedera helix) have previously been proposed as an alternative to metallic nanoparticles as sunscreen fillers due to their effective UV extinction property, low toxicity and potential biodegradability. METHODS: This study focused on analyzing the physicochemical properties of the ivy nanoparticles, specifically, those parameters which are crucial for use as sunscreen fillers, such as pH, temperature, and UV irradiation. The visual transparency and cytotoxicity of ivy nanoparticles were also investigated comparing them with other metal oxide nanoparticles. RESULTS: Results from this study demonstrated that, after treatment at 100°C, there was a clear increase in the UV extinction spectra of the ivy nanoparticles caused by the partial decomposition. In addition, the UVA extinction spectra of the ivy nanoparticles gradually reduced slightly with the decrease of pH values in solvents. Prolonged UV irradiation indicated that the influence of UV light on the stability of the ivy nanoparticle was limited and time-independent. Compared to TiO2 and ZnO nanoparticles, ivy nanoparticles showed better visual transparency. Methylthiazol tetrazolium assay demonstrated that ivy nanoparticles exhibited lower cytotoxicity than the other two types of nanoparticles. Results also suggested that protein played an important role in modulating the three-dimensional structure of the ivy nanoparticles. CONCLUSIONS: Based on the results from this study it can be concluded that the ivy nanoparticles are able to maintain their UV protective capability at wide range of temperature and pH values, further demonstrating their potential as an alternative to replace currently available metal oxide nanoparticles in sunscreen applications.

Development of a new in vitro method to evaluate the photoprotective sunscreen activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation.

Sunscreen efficiency of biomolecules against UV-B radiation was generally determined in vitro by cosmetic methods which are not well-adapted for routine ecophysiological and bio-guidance studies in plant research laboratories. In this article, we propose a new in vitro method to evaluate the sunscreen photoprotective activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation. Because photosynthetic pigments are one of the first targets of UV-B radiation in plants, the experimental design is based on the ability of the tested substances to limit the degradation of sodium magnesium chlorophyllin (SMC), a derivative compound of natural chlorophyll. SMC photodegradation comparatively to natural chlorophyll and related to temperature, concentration and sample solvent were analyzed in order to optimize the experimental parameters. Then, the method was validated by testing nine standard UV filters used in the European cosmetic industry and by comparing results of their activity with those of a reference in vitro procedure. Finally, the method was applied to coastal and marine crude plant extracts. Results have shown that our procedure can be a good alternative to cosmetic methods with a rapid, sensitive and reproducible evaluation of the sunscreen activity of either pure standards or crude plant extracts in small amounts (30 mg).

Royal jelly protects against ultraviolet B-induced photoaging in human skin fibroblasts via enhancing collagen production.

Royal jelly (RJ) is a honeybee product containing proteins, carbohydrates, fats, free amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. As its principal unsaturated fatty acid, RJ contains 10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid (10-HDA), which may have antitumor and antibacterial activity and a capacity to stimulate collagen production. RJ has attracted interest in various parts of the world for its pharmacological properties. However, the effects of RJ on ultraviolet (UV)-induced photoaging of the skin have not been reported. In this study we measured the 10-HDA content of RJ by high-performance liquid chromatography and tested the effects of RJ on UVB-induced skin photoaging in normal human dermal fibroblasts. The effects of RJ and 10-HDA on UVB-induced photoaging were tested by measuring procollagen type I, transforming growth factor (TGF)-ß1, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 after UVB irradiation. The RJ contained about 0.211% 10-HDA. The UVB-irradiated human skin fibroblasts treated with RJ and 10-HDA had increased procollagen type I and TGF-ß1 productions, but the level of MMP-1 was not changed. Thus RJ may potentially protect the skin from UVB-induced photoaging by enhancing collagen production.

Photodegradation of (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate in topical cream formulations and its photostabilization.

The aim of the study was to examine the photostability of the major catechin of green tea, (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), which possesses important antioxidant and skin photoprotective properties. In order to simulate realistic conditions of use of topical preparations, the photolysis studies were performed in model creams (oil-in-water emulsions) containing 1% (w/w) EGCG and exposed to a solar simulator at an irradiance corresponding to natural sunlight. The extent of photodegradation was measured by HPLC-UV and HPLC-ESI-MS. EGCG was found to decompose by 68.9±2.3%, after 1h irradiation. Addition of the coantioxidants, vitamin E or butylated hydroxytoluene to the emulsion formulation, significantly enhanced the photolability of the catechin, the EGCG loss reached 85.7±1.3% and 80.5±1.4%, respectively. On the other hand, inclusion of the UVB (290-320nm) filter, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate in the cream produced a small but significant reduction of EGCG photodegradation to 61.0±2.9%, while the UVA (320-400nm) filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane was ineffective (EGCG degradation, 67.8±1.5%). A more marked decrease in the light-induced decomposition of EGCG to 51.6±2.7% was achieved, under the same conditions, using the water-soluble UVB filter, benzophenone-4 (BP-4). This effect was concentration dependent, maximal EGCG photostabilization (catechin loss, 29.4±2.2%) was attained in the presence of 2.1% (w/w) BP-4. Therefore, BP-4 represents a useful additive to improve the light stability of EGCG in topical formulations for skin photoprotection.

Photodermatology. Quo vadis? / Fotodermatología. Quo vadis?

El eritema no fue siempre un buen parámetro para valorar el daño solar y es más difícil de utilizar en fototipos más oscuros. Mientras que en el pasado la fotodermatología estaba centrada en la piel caucásica, el futuro puede ser completamente diferente. Además, el color de la piel no sólo tiene un papel protector, sino también una importancia social; este es otro factor a tener en cuenta. La fotodermatología y la clasificación de las fotodermatosis estarán más globalizadas en el futuro. Los desafíos para la fototerapia serán una reducción del tiempo de irradiación y del número de tratamientos y el desarrollo de fuentes de luz específicas para indicaciones concretas. Las fotopruebas deberán estandarizarse internacionalmente y esto dará lugar a la creciente necesidad de una Sociedad Internacional de Fotodermatología. Hasta ahora, la mayoría de los tratamientos han sido más bien sintomáticos. Hay también más razones para creer que otros tratamientos más activos puedan tener un papel en el futuro (AU)

Erythema was not always a good parameter for acute solar damage and is much more difficult to use in darker skin types. While in the past photodermatology was mainly focused on Caucasian skin, the future, therefore, could be completely different. In addition, skin colour has not only a protective importance but also a social importance. This is another factor that should be taken into account. Photodermatology and the classification of photodermatoses will also become more globalised in the future. Challenges for phototherapy will be a reduction of the irradiation time and the number of treatments, and the development of specific light sources for specific inrucations. Phototesting should be standardised on an international level and this will lead to a growing need for an International Society for Photodermatology. Until now, most treatments have been rather symptomatic. There are also more and more reasons to believe that more active treatments could play a role in the future (AU)

Chemical stability and SPF determination of Pothomorphe umbellata extract gel and photostability of 4-nerolidylcathecol.

Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective properties, Pothomorphe umbellata is a promising candidate for use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. These properties arise from the presence of 4-nerolidylcathecol (4-NC), a polyphenolic compound isolated from P. umbellata roots. This study investigates its photostability properties, as well as the chemical and the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) of P. umbellata root extract in a gel formulation. A high performance liquid chromatography method was used to evaluate the chemical stability using 4-NC as marker at 5, 25 and 45 degrees C for 103 days. The photostability and the sun protection factor were analyzed by ultraviolet (UV) spectophotometry using samples irradiated with UVB lamp. No significant difference of the 4-NC concentration was found in formulations stored at 5 and 25 degrees C. All samples stored at 45 degrees C, however, showed degradation of gel structure. After 2h of UVB exposure, there was no change in the absorption profile of 4-NC. The sun protection factor of P. umbellata root extract gel to final concentration of 0.1% 4-NC was not expressive (SPF=3.35+/-0.02), suggesting the predominance of its antioxidant activity.

Reservoir function of the stratum corneum: development of an in vivo method to quantitatively determine the stratum corneum reservoir for topically applied substances.

Investigations on the stratum corneum (SC) reservoir for topically applied substances are of importance in dermatologic science in order to assess the pharmacokinetics of these substances. In the present study, an in vivo method was developed to determine the SC reservoir quantitatively and to investigate the temporal behavior of this reservoir. Therefore, increasing amounts of an oil-in-water emulsion (o/w emulsion) containing 4% of a chemical UV filter were topically applied onto the flexor forearms of 5 healthy volunteers. The saturation of the SC reservoir was determined utilizing the tape stripping technique 1 and 6 h after application. The capacity of the SC reservoir for the o/w emulsion was found to be approximately 2.7 mg/cm(2). Furthermore, a correlation of the capacity of the SC with transepidermal water loss was observed. Extending the time between the topical application and SC removal did not affect the distribution or the recovery rate of the UV filter in the SC. The results indicate that the reservoir of the SC is limited. This is reflected by the saturation level, which depends on the individual volunteer and, presumably, the topically applied substances and formulations used. The results show that the method developed is suited to quantitatively determine in vivo the SC reservoir for topically applied substances.

Participation of singlet oxygen in ultraviolet-a-induced lipid peroxidation in mouse skin and its inhibition by dietary beta-carotene: an ex vivo study.

Dietary beta-carotene acts as a photoprotective agent in the skin, but the exact mechanism of protection is unknown. This ex vivo study is focused on determining the mechanism of action of beta-carotene against UV-A-induced skin damage by characterizing peroxidized phosphatidylcholine (PC) and beta-carotene oxidation products. BALB/c mice were fed with basal or a beta-carotene-supplemented diet, and homogenates from their dorsal skin were prepared after 3 weeks for UV-A irradiation. Analyses revealed that the degree of lipid peroxidation in the beta-carotene group was significantly lower than that in the controls. The isomeric composition of hydroperoxy fatty acids, constituting peroxidized PC, was determined by thin-layer chromatography-blotting followed by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (MS)/selected ion monitoring analysis. The 9- and 10-isomers of peroxidized PC, resulting from the reaction of singlet molecular oxygen ((1)O(2)) with oleic acid, were elevated in the UV-A-exposed control group compared to the experimental group. Similar results were obtained from methylene-blue-sensitized photooxidation of mouse skin lipids in vitro. Liquid chromatography/MS analysis of the homogenates confirmed the formation of beta-carotene 5,8-endoperoxide, a specific marker for the (1)O(2) reaction. These results indicate that dietary beta-carotene accumulates in the skin and acts as a protective agent against UV-A-induced oxidative damage, by quenching the (1)O(2).

In vitro assessment of the broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection of sunscreen products.

BACKGROUND: There are considerable data to suggest that protection from solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation will reduce the risk of acute and chronic skin damage in humans. Whereas the sun protection factor (SPF) provides an index of protection against erythemally effective solar UV, largely confined to the UVB (290-320 nm) and short-wavelength UVA (320-340 nm) region, there is currently no agreed-upon method to measure broad-spectrum protection against long-wavelength UVA (340-400 nm). OBJECTIVE: The objective of these studies was to assess the potential of in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and subsequent calculation of the "critical wavelength" value as a measure of broad-spectrum UV protection and as a routine, practical procedure for classification of sunscreen products. METHODS: The spectral absorption of 59 commercially available sunscreen products and multiple experimental formulas with one or more UV filters was measured. Sunscreen product, 1 mg/cm(2), was applied to a hydrated synthetic collagen substrate, preirradiated with a solar simulator, and then subjected to UV substrate spectrophotometry. Multiple determinations from 5 independent samples per product were used to calculate the critical wavelength value, defined as the wavelength at which the integral of the spectral absorbance curve reached 90% of the integral from 290 to 400 nm. RESULTS: We found that a recognized long-wave UVA active ingredient such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone is a necessary but insufficient product requirement for achieving the highest proposed broad-spectrum classification, that is, critical wavelength of 370 nm or more. Although SPF and critical wavelength are largely independent of each other, UVA absorbance must increase commensurate with SPF to maintain the same critical wavelength value. Substrate spectrophotometry and the calculation of critical wavelength can readily account for sunscreen photostability by UV preirradiation. Finally, there is also a strong positive relationship between critical wavelength and a currently available in vivo measure of UVA protection. CONCLUSION: Determination of critical wavelength by means of UV substrate spectrophotometry provides a rapid, inexpensive, and reliable measure of broad-spectrum protection, which is largely independent of SPF, yet ensures long-wavelength UVA protection commensurate with SPF. The procedure provides a routine, sensitive means of differentiating and classifying sunscreen products and, importantly, obviates the need to subject volunteers to acute exposures of high-dose, nonterrestrial UV, the health risks of which are still poorly understood.