Photoaging and cosmeceutical solutions in sun-overexposed countries: The experience of Australia and Brazil.

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin.

The usefulness of a dermocosmetic containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid for maintenance phase of adult female acne: Results from a randomized exploratory investigator-blinded comparative study.

BACKGROUND: Acne is a very common condition. Currently, there are relatively few studies available to help guidance-based decisions for its long-term management, especially studies with cosmetic care products. We have developed a skin care product dedicated to adult female acne. OBJECTIVES: Evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of the test product containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid compared with a light moisturizing cream (LCM) in adult females in the acne maintenance phase. METHODS: A clinical study was conducted as a Brazilian, multicentre, randomized, investigator-blinded trial in adult females with clear or almost clear facial acne after anti-acne treatment. The test group (26 subjects) applied the test product and the comparative product group (27 subjects) applied LCM. Both groups applied the products twice daily on the whole face. Subjects were evaluated every 4 weeks over 16 weeks. Efficacy was evaluated according to acne relapse; Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA); acne lesions counting; AcneQoL questionnaire; Subject Global change Assessment (SGA) of acne severity; and the number of Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) and Post-Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) lesions. Tolerance was assessed according to a 5-point scale. RESULTS: Over 16 weeks, the number of acne relapse was more than double in the comparator compared to the test product group (eight subjects vs. three subjects respectively). There was no statistical difference in the evolution of the mean IGA from baseline between the two groups; however, 85% of subjects were assessed as clear or almost clear in the test product group and 67% in the comparative group. CONCLUSIONS: This study demonstrated the effectiveness topical application of the test product compared to LCM on acne severity in the maintenance phase of adult female acne. Efficacy results after 16 weeks suggested a trend to limit acne relapses and a benefit of the test product in maintaining long-term remission.

Transcriptomic and histological analysis of exposed facial skin areas wrinkled or not and unexposed skin.

BACKGROUND: Skin aging involves genetic, environmental and hormonal factors. Facial wrinkles also depend on muscular activity. Gene expression investigation may be useful for new anti-aging products. METHODS AND RESULTS: To evaluate structure and gene expression differences among exposed and unexposed skin in menopausal women. Cross-sectional study, including 15 menopausal women, 55-65 years, phototype III; photo-exposed, periorbital wrinkles (A1), preauricular, not wrinkled (A2), and unexposed gluteal (A3) areas were described and compared by non-invasive measures, histology, immunohistochemistry and gene expression (RNASeq); participants mean age was 61yo, presenting moderate periorbital wrinkles and light facial photodamage. Higher roughness, wrinkles number and echogenicity were observed in A1 and A2 versus A3. Decreased epidermal thickness and dermal collagen IV were demonstrated in A1 versus A2 and A3. Exposed areas impacted different pathways compared to unexposed. Exposed wrinkled skin (A1) showed impact on cell movement with decreased inflammatory activation state. Pathways related to lipid and aminoacids metabolism were modulated in non-wrinkled exposed (A2) compared to unexposed (A3) skin. CONCLUSIONS: Expected histological findings and gene expression differences among areas were observed. Photoaging in menopausal women may modulate lipid and aminoacids metabolism and decrease inflammatory and keratinization pathways, cellular homeostasis, immune response, fibrogenesis and filament formation. These findings may help development of new therapies for skin health and aging control.

Development of a clinical scale to assess the severity of striae distensae.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE: There is no validated instrument to assess the clinical severity of striae distensae. Here, we aimed to develop a striae distensae severity scale. MATERIAL AND METHODS: After a Delphi-based consensus, 15 items related to striae severity were assessed in 110 areas (breasts, abdomen, and buttocks) from 45 participants. The items were analyzed through a partial least squares model to select the most important variables. To assess the reliability of the scale, 43 areas were retested. RESULTS: Of the 110 areas evaluated, 34 were breasts, 24 abdomens, and 52 buttocks. Striae were considered mild in 30% of the evaluations, moderate in 33%, severe in 21%, and extremely severe in 16%. The final model was composed by: width of the widest striae, width of the striae with the most frequent pattern, atrophy, number of affected quadrants, distribution (multiple or isolated), hypo or hyperchromia and topography. The scores of the scale demonstrated a high correlation with the clinical classification (rho = 0.77). There was a high agreement in the scores from the reassessed areas (intraclass correlation coefficient = 0.90). CONCLUSION: An objective and reliable scale to assess the clinical severity of striae distensae on the breasts, abdomen, and buttocks was developed.

Skin photoaging in young men: A clinical study by skin imaging techniques.

OBJECTIVE: Differences in skin physiology and lifestyle among people can influence the skin damage caused by solar radiation. Photoprotection habits play an important role to prevent skin photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the skin changes resulting from solar exposure in young men by skin imaging techniques. METHODS: Twenty-three male, aged 18-28 years, with and without photoprotection habits participated in the study. Instrumental measurements in terms of dermis thickness and echogenicity (20 mHz ultrasound - DermaScanC® ), morphological and structural skin characterization (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope® 1500) and high-resolution imaging (Visioface® ) were performed in the malar region of the face. RESULTS: Pigmentation disorders, telangiectasia, wrinkles and lower dermis echogenicity were observed in the skin of subjects without photoprotection habits. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images showed an irregular honeycomb pattern (35%), polycyclic papillae (40%) and coarse collagen fibres (35%), which are related to photoaging. CONCLUSION: Sun exposure without photoprotection results in a loss of dermal echogenicity and changes in the epidermis structure and collagen fibres regardless of chronological age. Thus, the study adds data for a discussion about correct photoprotection habits among young people and can help to increase the use of sunscreens for male public.

OBJECTIFS: Les différences de physiologie cutanée et de mode de vie peuvent influer sur les lésions cutanées causées par le rayonnement solaire. Les habitudes de photoprotection jouent un rôle important dans la prévention du photovieillissement cutané. Dans ce contexte, l'objectif de l'étude était d'évaluer les changements cutanés résultants de l'exposition au soleil chez les jeunes hommes à l'aide de techniques d'imagerie cutanée. MÉTHODES: L'étude a inclus 23 hommes, âgés de 18 à 28 ans, avec et sans habitudes de photoprotection. Des mesures instrumentales d'épaisseur et d'échogénicité du derme (échographie 20 mHz - DermaScanC®), de caractérisation morphologique et structurale de la peau (Reflectance Confocal Microscopy - VivaScope® 1500) et des images haute résolution (Visioface®) ont été réalisées dans la région malaire du visage. RÉSULTATS: Des troubles de la pigmentation, des télangiectasies, des rides et une moindre échogénicité du derme ont été observés sur la peau d'individus sans habitudes de photoprotection. Les images de microscopie confocale à réflectance ont montré un motif en nid d'abeille irrégulier (35%), des papilles polycycliques (40%) et des fibres de collagène épaisses (35%), qui sont liés au photovieillissement. CONCLUSION: L'exposition au soleil sans photoprotection entraîne une perte d'échogénicité cutanée et des modifications de la structure de l'épiderme et des fibres de collagène, quel que soit l'âge chronologique. Enfin, l'étude agrège les données pour une discussion sur les bonnes habitudes de photoprotection chez les jeunes et peut aider à augmenter l'utilisation des écrans solaires par le public masculin.

Efficacy and Safety of 2 Injection Techniques for Hand Biostimulatory Treatment With Diluted Calcium Hydroxylapatite.

BACKGROUND: Calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) is effective for dorsal hand rejuvenation. Higher dilutions are used for biostimulation with fewer side effects. OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of 2 techniques of diluted CaHA injection for dorsal hand treatment. METHODS: A prospective, evaluator-blinded study was performed to compare (side-to-side) techniques for treating the dorsum of the hands with diluted CaHA: deep fat lamina or subdermal injection. Fifteen women with aging grades between 1 and 3 on the MHGS (Merz hand grading scale) were enrolled and followed up for 24 weeks. The outcomes were a histological analysis of collagen, skin viscoelasticity, high-frequency ultrasound parameters, MHGS score, and the global aesthetic improvement scale (GAIS) score. RESULTS: Improvement in the MHGS and GAIS scores (p < .01) was observed, with no difference between techniques (p > .05). Skin viscoelasticity measures and ultrasonography for dermal parameters improved for both treatments (p < .01). The mean total collagen density increased from the baseline for both techniques (p < .01). Pain during the procedure as well as adverse effects within the follow-up did not differ between treatments (p > .4). The overall satisfaction was 12% greater for the subdermal technique (p < .05). CONCLUSION: Diluted CaHA improves the skin quality of aging hands with a safe profile, without substantial differences between the techniques.

Severe Acne and Metabolic Syndrome: A Possible Correlation.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Chronic inflammatory skin diseases have been shown to increase or predispose metabolic or vascular damage. However, little is known about systemic effects of the pro-inflammatory state of severe acne. We analyzed data of 85 patients at Lipid Outpatient Clinics (UNIFESP/EPM) who were treated for metabolic syndrome (MS). Medical history and physical examinations were performed in order to search characteristics of acne scars. METHODS: Patients' electronic records were accessed for one year. The ones presenting MS were evaluated by clinical examination in order to detect presence of acne scars. Clinical analysis comprised anamnesis, measurement of abdominal circumference, blood pressure, and body mass index (BMI). Laboratory tests included fasting glucose, CBC, serum levels of insulin, triglycerides, LDL, HDL, ALT, AST, urea, and creatinine. Statistical analysis consisted of prevalence (95% CI) of acne history/scars among patients treated at the Lipid Outpatient Clinics. The χ2 test, Pearson's test, or Fisher's exact test was used to evaluate the association of social and demographic data, clinical and lab exams with the presence of MS or acne scars. Statistical 5% significance level was adopted. RESULTS: Fifty-two patients confirmed having a medical history of acne, and 33 denied. Acne scars were found in 61.17%. There was no statistical difference between the groups according to medium value of BMI, hypertension, abdominal circumference, and serum levels of hemoglobin, leucocytes, platelets, triglycerides, LDL, HDL, AST, ALT, glycemia, creatinine, and urea. Twenty-seven out of the 52 patients with acne history presented acne scars, which symbolizes a 31.76% prevalence. This equals a 51.92% prevalence among all patients with acne history. There was no statistical difference among groups according to mean (±SD) in data such as family history, weight, BMI, hypertension, abdominal circumference, serum levels of hemoglobin, leucocytes, platelets, LDL, HDL, AST, ALT, glycemia, creatinine, and urea. A statistical difference in the triglyceride level was present, being elevated in patients with acne scars. DISCUSSION: Apart from the limitation (small sample size), a correlation between acne and MS could be suggested. The high prevalence of acne history/scars in patients treated for MS may indicate a possible correlation with any type of acne. This hypothesis may raise discussion about an association like the already proven risk of metabolic alterations in other inflammatory chronic dermatoses, such as psoriasis or rosacea, regardless of acne severity. We highlight the importance of early treatment and follow-up for patients with MS that could be observed in this study, as clinical and laboratory criteria were all within normal levels among patients from that specific outpatient clinic. Results can draw attention to evaluation of clinical and laboratory investigation related to risk of MS. It corroborates to early diagnosis and prevention of complications of MS. Further studies are needed to confirm our findings.

Oral isotretinoin for acne.

BACKGROUND: Acne vulgaris, a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit associated with socialisation and mental health problems, may affect more than 80% of teenagers. Isotretinoin is the only drug that targets all primary causal factors of acne; however, it may cause adverse effects. OBJECTIVES: To assess efficacy and safety of oral isotretinoin for acne vulgaris. SEARCH METHODS: We searched the following databases up to July 2017: the Cochrane Skin Group Specialised Register, CENTRAL, MEDLINE, Embase, PsycINFO and LILACS. We updated this search in March 2018, but these results have not yet been incorporated in the review. We also searched five trial registries, checked the reference lists of retrieved studies for further references to relevant trials, and handsearched dermatology conference proceedings. A separate search for adverse effects of oral isotretinoin was undertaken in MEDLINE and Embase up to September 2013. SELECTION CRITERIA: Randomised clinical trials (RCTs) of oral isotretinoin in participants with clinically diagnosed acne compared against placebo, any other systemic or topical active therapy, and itself in different formulation, doses, regimens, or course duration. DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS: We used standard methodological procedures expected by Cochrane. MAIN RESULTS: We included 31 RCTs, involving 3836 participants (12 to 55 years) with mild to severe acne. There were twice as many male participants as females.Most studies were undertaken in Asia, Europe, and North America. Outcomes were generally measured between eight to 32 weeks (mean 19.7 weeks) of therapy.Assessed comparisons included oral isotretinoin versus placebo or other treatments such as antibiotics. In addition, different doses, regimens, or formulations of oral isotretinoin were assessed, as well as oral isotretinoin with the addition of topical agents.Pharmaceutical companies funded 12 included trials. All, except three studies, had high risk of bias in at least one domain.Oral isotretinoin compared with oral antibiotics plus topical agentsThese studies included participants with moderate or severe acne and assessed outcomes immediately after 20 to 24 weeks of treatment (short-term). Three studies (400 participants) showed isotretinoin makes no difference in terms of decreasing trial investigator-assessed inflammatory lesion count (RR 1.01 95% CI 0.96 to 1.06), with only one serious adverse effect found, which was Stevens-Johnson syndrome in the isotretinoin group (RR 3.00, 95% CI 0.12 to 72.98). However, we are uncertain about these results as they were based on very low-quality evidence.Isotretinoin may slightly improve (by 15%) acne severity, assessed by physician's global evaluation (RR 1.15, 95% CI 1.00 to 1.32; 351 participants; 2 studies), but resulted in more less serious adverse effects (67% higher risk) (RR 1.67, 95% CI 1.42 to 1.98; 351 participants; 2 studies), such as dry lips/skin, cheilitis, vomiting, nausea (both outcomes, low-quality evidence).Different doses/therapeutic regimens of oral isotretinoinFor our primary efficacy outcome, we found three RCTs, but heterogeneity precluded meta-analysis. One study (154 participants) reported 79%, 80% and 84% decrease in total inflammatory lesion count after 20 weeks of 0.05, 0.1, or 0.2 mg/kg/d of oral isotretinoin for severe acne (low-quality evidence). Another trial (150 participants, severe acne) compared 0.1, 0.5, and 1 mg/kg/d oral isotretinoin for 20 weeks and, respectively, 58%, 80% and 90% of participants achieved 95% decrease in total inflammatory lesion count. One RCT, of participants with moderate acne, compared isotretinoin for 24 weeks at (a) continuous low dose (0.25 to 0.4 mg/kg/day), (b) continuous conventional dose (0.5 to 0.7 mg/kg/day), and (c) intermittent regimen (0.5 to 0.7 mg/kg/day, for one week in a month). Continuous low dose (MD 3.72 lesions; 95% CI 2.13 to 5.31; 40 participants; one study) and conventional dose (MD 3.87 lesions; 95% CI 2.31 to 5.43; 40 participants; one study) had a greater decrease in inflammatory lesion counts compared to intermittent treatment (all outcomes, low-quality evidence).Fourteen RCTs (906 participants, severe and moderate acne) reported that no serious adverse events were observed when comparing different doses/therapeutic regimens of oral isotretinoin during treatment (from 12 to 32 weeks) or follow-up after end of treatment (up to 48 weeks). Thirteen RCTs (858 participants) analysed frequency of less serious adverse effects, which included skin dryness, hair loss, and itching, but heterogeneity regarding the assessment of the outcome precluded data pooling; hence, there is uncertainty about the results (low- to very-low quality evidence, where assessed).Improvement in acne severity, assessed by physician's global evaluation, was not measured for this comparison.None of the included RCTs reported birth defects. AUTHORS' CONCLUSIONS: Evidence was low-quality for most assessed outcomes.We are unsure if isotretinoin improves acne severity compared with standard oral antibiotic and topical treatment when assessed by a decrease in total inflammatory lesion count, but it may slightly improve physician-assessed acne severity. Only one serious adverse event was reported in the isotretinoin group, which means we are uncertain of the risk of serious adverse effects; however, isotretinoin may result in more minor adverse effects.Heterogeneity in the studies comparing different regimens, doses, or formulations of oral isotretinoin meant we were unable to undertake meta-analysis. Daily treatment may be more effective than treatment for one week each month. None of the studies in this comparison reported serious adverse effects, or measured improvement in acne severity assessed by physician's global evaluation. We are uncertain if there is a difference in number of minor adverse effects, such as skin dryness, between doses/regimens.Evidence quality was lessened due to imprecision and attrition bias. Further studies should ensure clearly reported long- and short-term standardised assessment of improvement in total inflammatory lesion counts, participant-reported outcomes, and full safety accounts. Oral isotretinoin for acne that has not responded to oral antibiotics plus topical agents needs further assessment, as well as different dose/regimens of oral isotretinoin in acne of all severities.

Female type of adult acne: Physiological and psychological considerations and management.

Today we see more cases of acne after adolescence, with a greater prevalence in females than males. Adult female acne has a distinct clinical presentation and is associated with a number of specific pathophysiological features and gender-specific triggers. The psychological impact of acne is generally significant and largely underestimated; stress during professional and private life, anxiety and sleep quality, in particular, have a reciprocal relationship with disease susceptibility and severity. It is essential to compare with males. Acne in females often causes greater distress in adults than in adolescents. The impact of disease may therefore be greater for female patients, triggering higher levels of psychosocial anguish and increasing the likelihood of sequelae such as skin picking and the risks of cutaneous superinfection, scarring and PIH and acne recurrence. The management of adult female acne should encompass not just medical treatment of the symptoms, but also a comprehensive, holistic approach to the patient as a whole, her individual lifestyle factors and the impact of acne on her quality of life. Future management of this disease should aim to improve patient adherence to therapy and to develop validated outcomes of treatment regarding overall skin appearance and quality of life.

Liquid nitrogen for the treatment of actinic keratosis: a longitudinal assessment.

Cryosurgery with liquid nitrogen is one of the most used treatments for actinic keratosis. We aimed to study the effectiveness of two consecutive sessions of cryosurgery for actinic keratosis and investigate factors associated with its therapeutic success. Hence, we conducted a longitudinal study including 92 patients of both sexes, aged 50-75 years with 5-50 actinic keratosis on the face and forearms, who underwent cryosurgery and treatment with sunscreen SPF 30, at baseline and after 120 days. The lesions were counted in duplicate by the same examiner before the start of treatment and after 120 (N=92) and 300 days (N=33), represented by their medians and quartiles and compared using the generalized linear mixed effects model (negative binomial). Treatment behavior was investigated in relation to sex, age, education, skin type, smoking, sun exposure at work and the use of aspirin, anti-inflammatory and angiotensin-converting enzyme inhibitors. There was a significant reduction in the actinic keratosis count on the face and forearms (p<0.05). Our results confirmed the effectiveness of cryosurgery for actinic keratosis, with a 57% reduction in the number, and size of the lesions. Higher education levels (p=0.02) and less sun exposure at work (p=0.02) independently promoted a significant reduction in the actinic keratosis count. Different population groups showed characteristic responses to the treatment, which may be explained by the degree of adherence to the use of photoprotection. In two sessions, cryosurgery with liquid nitrogen reduced the actinic keratosis count.

Five percent 5-fluorouracil in a cream or for superficial peels in the treatment of advanced photoaging of the forearms: a randomized comparative study.

BACKGROUND: The antimetabolite 5-fluorouracil (5-FU) is used for topical treatment of actinic keratosis. Overall improvement in the skin is also observed. Additionally, 5-FU was reported to be used for superficial peels. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the efficacy and safety of 5% 5-FU cream compared with peels for photodamaged forearms. METHODS: This interventional, randomized, comparative, evaluator-blind study included 32 patients with severe photoaging of forearms. The regimens comprised either application of 5% 5-FU cream everyday for 4 weeks on 1 forearm and 4 weekly peels on the other. Efficacy assessment included: clinical photodamage scores, opinion of patients and investigators, and blind photographic evaluation by independent observers. Skin biopsies were performed for histologic and immunohistochemical analysis. Safety evaluation comprised observation of adverse events. RESULTS: Clinical and histologic findings confirmed the benefits of topical 5% 5-FU, in cream or peels, which improved skin appearance and decreased the dermal elastotic material. Immunohistochemistry showed reduced levels of epidermal p53 and increase in the level of procollagen I. Results were maintained after 6 months. Predictable adverse events occurred, with no differences between treatments. Patients reported better tolerability to peels. CONCLUSION: Five percent 5-FU cream or peels was safe and effective for the treatment of photodamaged forearms. Decreased epidermal p53 levels and new dermal collagen were confirmed.

Dermatological ultrasound in assessing skin aging.

Ultrasonography (US) has emerged as a pivotal tool in Dermatology since its inaugural use in 1979. Its evolution encompasses technological advancements, higher frequencies, and diverse applications in clinical, surgical, and research aspects. The discussion centers on its crucial role in assessing skin aging through various parameters such as skin thickness, subepidermal low echogenicity band (SLEB) characterization, and echogenicity assessment. This analysis can help guide interventions in a more personalized manner for each patient and assess the effectiveness of cosmetics and procedures. Despite its widespread utility, challenges persist, including discrepancies in research outcomes, operator dependence, inability to detect minute lesions, and measurement variations throughout the day. Combining US with complementary methodologies is advocated for a better understanding of skin aging in vivo. The cost-effectiveness and non-invasiveness of the US emphasize its promising future in dermatology, but ongoing research remains imperative to enhance its accuracy and expand its applications.

Efficacy and safety of botulinum toxin for rosacea with positive impact on quality of life and self-esteem.

BACKGROUND: Rosacea is a prevalent chronic inflammatory skin disease with a multifactorial pathophysiology. It compromises several skin structures, including the proliferation and dilation of dermal blood vessels, primarily in the central areas of the face, accompanied by significant psychosocial impairment, leading to reduced quality of life (QoL) and self-esteem. There are consensus guidelines for its treatment, but few options for the erythema. This study hypothesizes that treating rosacea skin lesions with botulinum toxin (BTX) could improve signs and symptoms, resulting in enhanced QoL and self-esteem. METHODS: This interventional, open, uncontrolled, and prospective study, conducted at a single center, included 33 individuals diagnosed with rosacea, treated with standard therapeutic options according to the rosacea subtype plus superficial injections of BTX, and followed up for 90 days. Botulinum toxin injections were applied on Days 1 and 14. Clinical features and side effects were assessed at each visit; QoL, self-esteem, and medication adherence questionnaires were administered on Days 1 and 90. RESULTS: Treatment with BTX yielded improvement in the clinical signs of rosacea, registered by the investigators, and reported by 94% of the participants. Improved QoL scores (P < 0.05) and a notable increase in self-esteem scores (P < 0.001) were demonstrated. Rare adverse events were observed. CONCLUSIONS: The utilization of BTX superficial injections in patients with rosacea was safe and effective, improving the clinical appearance of the lesions. Despite some limitations, to our knowledge, this is the first study that showed the positive impact of this treatment modality on both QoL and self-esteem.

Unveiling the Nuances of Adult Female Acne: A Comprehensive Exploration of Epidemiology, Treatment Modalities, Dermocosmetics, and the Menopausal Influence.

Previously considered a skin disease exclusively affecting adolescents, characterized by inflammatory and non-inflammatory skin lesions, acne vulgaris is now increasingly observed in adult life, including post-menopause. Today, adult female acne (AFA) is a common chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit, with polymorphic lesions presenting as open or closed comedones, papules, pustules, and even nodules or cysts, often with the presence of sequelae. AFA may persist from adolescence or manifest de novo in adulthood. Its etiology is multifactorial, involving genetic, hormonal, dietary, and environmental factors, yet still incompletely understood. Increased sebum production, keratinocyte hyper-proliferation, inflammation, and reduced diversity of Cutibacterium acnes strains are the underlying disease mechanisms. During menopausal transition, a relative increase in androgen levels occurs, just as estrogens begin to decline, which can manifest itself as acne. Whereas most AFA exhibit few acne lesions with normo-androgenic serum levels, baseline investigations including androgen testing panel enable associated comorbidities to be eliminated, such as polycystic ovarian syndrome, congenital adrenal hyperplasia, or tumors. Another interesting feature is AFA's impact on quality of life, which is greater than in adolescents, being similar to other chronic diseases like asthma. The therapeutic approach to AFA depends on its severity and associated features. This review investigates the intricate facets of AFA, with a specific focus on incidence rates, treatment modalities, and the curious impact of menopause. Utilizing insights from contemporary literature and scientific discussions, this article seeks to advance our understanding of AFA, offering new perspectives to shape clinical practices and improve patient outcomes.

Effect of Makeup Use on Depressive Symptoms: An Open, Randomized and Controlled Trial.

INTRODUCTION: Depression is one of the most disabling diseases globally, with a high disease burden that generates high direct and indirect costs. The incidence of depression is twofold higher in adult women than in men. Biological and psychosocial factors constitute the pathophysiological bases of the condition and due to the complexity of the condition, current understanding is that the "treatment strategy must be multimodal". The objective of this study was to measure the effect of introducing the frequent use of makeup on improving depressive symptoms in adult women of medium-low purchasing power METHODS: Participants with the targeted profile who did not frequently use makeup were selected and randomised to receive (test group) or not (control group) stimuli and makeup products intended for encouraging the frequent use of makeup. The Zung Depression Self-Assessment Scale was used to assess depressive symptoms, with additional assessments on self-image perception using the mirror test and salivary cortisol level. RESULTS: The results demonstrated a sustained reduction in depressive symptoms (8.3 percentage points reduction in the Average Zung Index; P < 0.05), with a significant improvement in self-image perception (25% increase in the average score obtained in the mirror test; P < 0.05) and a specific influence on salivary cortisol levels (55% reduction in salivary cortisol concentration; P < 0.05) after the first makeup application. CONCLUSION: The results show that encouraging the frequent use of makeup, a practice that can be achieved by most people and which is simple and inexpensive to implement, can contribute to effective and sustainable improvement in the well-being and mental health of a significant portion of the population.