The impact of irritant challenge on the skin barrier and myeloid resident immune cells in post-menopausal women is modulated by hormone replacement therapy.

BACKGROUND: Sex hormone changes during menopausal transition contribute to declining skin health. However, how menopause and its treatment by hormone replacement therapy (HRT) impact the skin barrier and immune system is unclear. Therefore, we examined how menopause and HRT affect skin barrier and immune cell composition in post-menopausal women following irritant challenge. METHODS: Two cohorts of post-menopausal women were recruited to the study, one untreated (HRT-; n = 10; mean age 56.5 yrs [range 48-63 yrs]) and the other receiving HRT (n = 8; mean age 54 yrs [range 48-63 yrs]). Skin irritation was induced by applying 1.25% topical Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) to occluded buttock skin for 48 hours. Clinical assessment was conducted after 24 hours, followed by biopsy of both SLS-challenged and unchallenged skin for analysis of skin barrier proteins and immune cell distribution using immunofluorescence. RESULTS: Clinically, there were no significant differences in skin irritant responses between those taking or not taking HRT (including increased skin redness and blood flow). In response to SLS challenge a significant increase in trans-epidermal water loss (p<0.05), filaggrin deposition and keratin-10-positive cell layers (p<0.01) was observed in individuals receiving HRT compared to the HRT- group. Following SLS challenge in individuals taking HRT, a significant (p<0.01) reduction of CD207+ cells in the epidermis was observed, accompanied by an increase of CD207+ cells in the dermis, indicative of migrating Langerhans' cells (LCs). Significantly fewer migrating LCs were observed in those not receiving HRT (p<0.01). Furthermore, the number of dermal dendritic cells (DCs), macrophages, and CD11c+CD206- and CD68+CD206- subsets were found to be significantly (p<0.05) higher in those taking HRT following SLS challenge. CONCLUSION: Individuals receiving HRT displayed enhanced skin barrier response to SLS challenge with thicker filaggrin and increased keratin-10-positive epidermal cell layers. Following challenge, HRT users exhibited elevated counts of LCs, inflammatory DCs, and macrophages in the dermis. These may render skin both, more prone to inflammation and more capable of resolving it, while also promoting skin repair.

Prediction, screening and characterization of novel bioactive tetrapeptide matrikines for skin rejuvenation.

BACKGROUND: Extracellular matrices play a critical role in tissue structure and function and aberrant remodelling of these matrices is a hallmark of many age-related diseases. In skin, loss of dermal collagens and disorganization of elastic fibre components are key features of photoageing. Although the application of some small matrix-derived peptides to aged skin has been shown to beneficially affect in vitro cell behaviour and, in vivo, molecular architecture and clinical appearance, the discovery of new peptides has lacked a guiding hypothesis. OBJECTIVES: To identify, using protease cleavage site prediction, novel putative matrikines with beneficial activities for skin composition and structure. METHODS: Here, we present an in silico (peptide cleavage prediction) to in vitro (proteomic and transcriptomic activity testing in cultured human dermal fibroblasts) to in vivo (short-term patch test and longer-term split-face clinical study) discovery pipeline, which enables the identification and characterization of peptides with differential activities. RESULTS: Using this pipeline we showed that cultured fibroblasts were responsive to all applied peptides, but their associated bioactivity was sequence-dependent. Based on bioactivity, toxicity and protein source, we further characterized a combination of two novel peptides, GPKG (glycine-proline-lysine-glycine) and LSVD (leucine-serine-valine-aspartate), that acted in vitro to enhance the transcription of matrix -organization and cell proliferation genes and in vivo (in a short-term patch test) to promote processes associated with epithelial and dermal maintenance and remodelling. Prolonged use of a formulation containing these peptides in a split-face clinical study led to significantly improved measures of crow's feet and firmness in a mixed population. CONCLUSIONS: This approach to peptide discovery and testing can identify new synthetic matrikines, providing insights into biological mechanisms of tissue homeostasis and repair and new pathways to clinical intervention.

Like other organs and tissues, the skin is composed of both cells and a complex network of molecules and proteins called an extracellular matrix. This matrix contains proteins such as collagen and elastin and undergoes many changes when the skin is damaged by the sun. We know from previous studies that small parts of matrix proteins (called peptide 'matrikines') can help to treat the signs of sun-related skin ageing. In this UK study, we show that new beneficial peptides (with matrikine activity) can be identified using machine learning (artificial intelligence) techniques that predict where common matrix proteins might be 'cut' by skin enzymes. Candidate peptides were first made in the laboratory and then applied to skin cells in culture. These cell culture screens demonstrated that, while all the peptides showed some matrikine activity, two were particularly promising. These two peptides were then tested in a short-term study on the forearm skin of volunteers and, in a longer-term study, on the face. We found that the combination of these two peptides can prompt forearm skin cells to express genes that are involved in many different aspect of skin health and, over the longer 6-month period, produce visible benefits in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and firmness on the face. Our findings suggest that this approach may be able to identify beneficial peptide treatments for not only skin ageing and diseases, but also unwanted changes in the extracellular matrix of other tissues and organs.

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action.

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

L'altération inévitable de la peau due aux rayons ultraviolets, appelée photovieillissement, peut être partiellement restaurée par un traitement à base de composés rétinoïdes. Chez les personnes à la pigmentation claire, le photovieillissement de la peau se manifeste au plan clinique par l'apparition de rides, un relâchement accru et une hyperpigmentation ou hypopigmentation. Ces signes visibles du vieillissement sont sous­tendus par des caractéristiques histologiques telles que l'amincissement de l'épiderme, l'aplatissement de la jonction dermo­épidermique, l'élastose solaire et la perte du réseau microfibrillaire de fibrilline dermique, du collagène fibrillaire et des glycosaminoglycanes. Les composés rétinoïdes sont constitués de trois générations principales, la première génération (acide tout­trans rétinoïque, rétinol, rétinaldéhyde et esters de rétinyle) étant principalement utilisée pour le traitement clinique et cosmétique du photovieillissement, avec des degrés variables d'efficacité, de tolérance et de stabilité. L'acide tout­trans rétinoïque est considéré comme la référence en matière de rajeunissement de la peau; il s'agit toutefois d'un produit délivré uniquement sur ordonnance, dont l'utilisation est largement limitée au domaine clinique. Les dérivés rétinoïdes sont donc volontiers incorporés ds formulations cosméceutiques. La littérature citée dans cette synthèse bibliographique laisse penser que le rétinol, les esters de rétinyle et le rétinaldéhyde, utilisés dans de nombreux produits cosmétiques, sont efficaces, sûrs et bien tolérés. Une fois dans la peau, les rétinoïdes utilisent une voie de signalisation complexe qui favorise le remodelage de l'épiderme et du derme photovieillis, et conduit à l'amélioration des signes cutanés du photovieillissement.