Novel confocal Raman microscopy method to investigate hydration mechanisms in human skin.

BACKGROUND: Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D2 O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H2 O) from exogenous D2 O. Following topical application of D2 O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D2 O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D2 O under the dermis. RESULTS: Relative D2 O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D2 O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D2 O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D2 O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D2 O is introduced under ex vivo skin. CONCLUSION: Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D2 O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D2 O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth-dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information.

One-year topical stabilized retinol treatment improves photodamaged skin in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial.

BACKGROUND: Retinol, a precursor of retinoic acid, has great potentials as a topical anti-aging molecule; however, only a handful of clinical investigations have been published to date. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of 0.1% stabilized retinol on photodamaged skin during a one-year treatment. METHODS: The investigation included two 52-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled studies. In the main study, 62 subjects applied either a stabilized retinol formulation or its vehicle to the full face. A second exploratory study evaluated histological/histochemical markers in 12 subjects after 52 weeks of either retinol or vehicle use on contralateral dorsal forearms. RESULTS: The retinol group showed significant photodamage improvement over vehicle at all timepoints during the study. After 52 weeks, retinol had improved crow's feet fine lines by 44%, and mottled pigmentation by 84%, with over 50% of subjects showing +2 grades of improvement in many parameters. Additionally, at week 52, histochemical data confirmed the clinical results, showing increased expression of type I procollagen, hyaluronan, and Ki67 as compared to vehicle. CONCLUSION: This study confirms that a stabilized retinol (0.1%) formulation can significantly improve the signs of photoaging, and improvements in photodamage continue with prolonged use.

Age-related morphological changes of the dermal matrix in human skin documented in vivo by multiphoton microscopy.

Two-photon fluorescence (TPF) and second harmonic generation (SHG) microscopy provide direct visualization of the skin dermal fibers in vivo. A typical method for analyzing TPF/SHG images involves averaging the image intensity and therefore disregarding the spatial distribution information. The goal of this study is to develop an algorithm to document age-related effects of the dermal matrix. TPF and SHG images were acquired from the upper inner arm, volar forearm, and cheek of female volunteers of two age groups: 20 to 30 and 60 to 80 years of age. The acquired images were analyzed for parameters relating to collagen and elastin fiber features, such as orientation and density. Both collagen and elastin fibers showed higher anisotropy in fiber orientation for the older group. The greatest difference in elastin fiber anisotropy between the two groups was found for the upper inner arm site. Elastin fiber density increased with age, whereas collagen fiber density decreased with age. The proposed analysis considers the spatial information inherent to the TPF and SHG images and provides additional insights into how the dermal fiber structure is affected by the aging process.