RESUMEN
Soybean isoflavone-rich extracts have been considered as promising skin antiaging products due to their antioxidant activity. This study investigates the effect of soybean isoflavone forms on porcine ear skin permeation/retention from topical nanoemulsions and their potential in protecting skin against oxidative damage caused by UVA/UVB light. Soybean non-hydrolyzed (SNHE) and hydrolyzed (SHE) extracts, mainly composed of genistin and genistein, were produced. Nanoemulsions containing SNHE (NESNHE) and SHE (NESHE) were prepared by spontaneous emulsification procedure and yielded monodispersed nanoemulsions. A delay of isoflavone release was observed after extracts incorporation into nanoemulsions when compared to a propyleneglycol dispersion of pure compounds. An increase of isoflavone skin retention from nanoemulsions was also achieved. However, from extracts, a higher amount of genistin (NESNHE) and a lower amount of genistein (NESHE) were detected in the skin in comparison to pure isoflavones. Finally, the protection of porcine ear skin by formulations against UVA/UVB oxidative stress was evaluated. Extract-loaded nanoemulsions offered better skin protection than pure isoflavones. Skin lipids were similarly protected by NESHE and NESNHE, whereas skin proteins were more protected by NESNHE. Overall, nanoemulsions containing isoflavone-rich soybean extracts may be considered a better topical formulation aiming skin protection from UVA/UVB oxidative damage.