Looking for the philosopher's stone: Emerging approaches to target the hallmarks of aging in the skin.

Senescence and epigenetic alterations are two important hallmarks of cellular aging. During aging, cells subjected to stress undergo many cycles of damage and repair before finally entering either apoptosis or senescence, a permanent state of cell cycle arrest. The first biomarkers of senescence to be identified were increased ß-galactosidase activity and induction of p16INK4a. Another feature of senescent cells is the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), a complex secretome containing more than 80 pro-inflammatory factors including metalloproteinases, growth factors, chemokines and cytokines. The secretome is regulated through a dynamic process involving a self-amplifying autocrine feedback loop and activation of the immune system. Senescent cells play positive and negative roles depending on the composition of their SASP and may participate in various processes including wound healing and tumour suppression, as well as cell regeneration, embryogenesis, tumorigenesis, inflammation and finally aging. The SASP is also a biomarker of age, biological aging and age-related diseases. Recent advances in anti-age research have shown that senescence can be now prevented or delayed by clearing the senescent cells or mitigating the effects of SASP factors, which can be achieved by a healthy lifestyle (exercise and diet), and senolytics and senomorphics, respectively. An alternative is tissue rejuvenation, which can be achieved by stimulating aged stem cells and reprogramming deprogrammed aged cells. These non-clinical findings will open up new avenues of clinical research into the development of treatments capable of preventing or treating age-related pathologies in humans.

Senomorphic activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: correlation with clinical improvement of skin aging.

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors, including lifestyle and sun exposure, can contribute to cell senescence, which impairs skin homeostasis, that may in turn lead to skin aging. Senescent cells have a specific secretome, called the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) that includes MMPs, CXCLs and S100A8/9. Reducing the SASP with senotherapeutics is a promising strategy to reduce skin aging. Here we evaluated the effect of a formula containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which are known to limit senescence and skin aging. We conducted three different studies. (1) Ex vivo explants treated with the formula had more collagen and glycosaminoglycan. (2) In a clinical trial with forty-four women, two months of treatment improved fine lines, wrinkles, luminosity, smoothness, homogeneity, and plumpness. (3) In a third study on thirty women, we treated one arm for two months and took skin biopsies to study gene expression. 101 mRNAs and 13 miRNAs were differentially expressed. We observed a likely senomorphic effect, as there was a decrease in many SASP genes including MMP12 and CXCL9 and a significant downregulation of autocrine signaling genes: S100A8 and S100A9. These pharmaco-clinical results are the first to demonstrate the senomorphic properties of an effective anti-aging formula in skin.