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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 44(3): 289-298, 2022 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-35377477

RESUMEN

OBJECTIVE: The present study is intended to characterize the surfactant damage suffered by the hair cortex in routine washing and the mechanistic effect of Coconut Based Hair Oils (CBHO) to mitigate the damage. METHODS: Surfactants which diffuse into the hair structure solubilize protein moieties, leading to an increase in porosity and internal surface area as well as the pore volume. The changes in hair pores occurring in the hair cortex are measured by nitrogen sorption method in line with the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) theory. Single fiber tensile parameters were measured using Diastron MTT 175. Color protection was measured quantitatively using spectrophotometer as well as visual rating by trained panelists. RESULTS: The pore surface area data clearly show the benefit of introducing coconut-based hair oils (CBHO) into the hair by preventing increase in hair porosity. A statistically significant decrease in break stress and toughness were observed and the same were reversed by the application of CBHO. A pronounced color protection effect was also recorded with the application of CBHO. CONCLUSION: The porosity reduction effect seen with the use of CBHO is attributed to the CBHO molecules blocking the diffusion pathways in the endocuticle and the matrix part of the cortical cells, limiting protein surfactant interaction resulting in reduced solubilization and loss. Since, the color molecules are likely to be much smaller than the protein moieties, a pronounced color protection effect suggests that the penetrated CBHO molecules form a dense diffusion barrier in the matrix, cell membrane complex (CMC) and the endocuticle regions of hair - which are the main diffusion pathways out of hair. The study confirms the damage repair potential of CBHO and that it works by increasing the hydrophobicity of hair - both on the hair surface and in the cortex.


OBJECTIF: La présente étude a pour but de caractériser les dommages causés par les surfactants au cortex pilaire lors des lavages de routine et l'effet mécanique des huiles capillaires à base de noix de coco (CBHO) pour atténuer ces dommages. MÉTHODES: Les tensioactifs qui diffusent dans la structure du cheveu solubilisent les fractions de protéines, ce qui entraîne une augmentation de la porosité et de la surface interne ainsi que du volume des pores. Les modifications des pores du cheveu survenant dans le cortex pilaire sont mesurées par la méthode de sorption de l'azote, conformément à la théorie de Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET). Les paramètres de traction de la fibre unique ont été mesurés à l'aide du Diastron MTT 175. La protection de la couleur a été mesurée quantitativement en utilisant un spectrophotomètre ainsi qu'une évaluation visuelle par des panélistes formés. LES RÉSULTATS: Les données sur la surface des pores montrent clairement l'avantage d'introduire des huiles capillaires à base de noix de coco (CBHO) dans les cheveux en empêchant l'augmentation de la porosité des cheveux. Une diminution statistiquement significative de la contrainte de rupture et de la résistance a été observée, qui a été inversée par l'application de CBHO. Un effet prononcé de protection de la couleur a également été enregistré avec l'application de CBHO. LA CONCLUSION: L'effet de réduction de la porosité observé avec l'utilisation de CBHO est attribué aux molécules de CBHO bloquant les voies de diffusion dans l'endocuticule et la partie matricielle des cellules corticales, limitant l'interaction protéine surfactant résultant en une solubilisation et une perte réduite. Étant donné que les molécules de couleur sont probablement beaucoup plus petites que les parties protéiques, un effet prononcé de protection de la couleur suggère que les molécules CBHO pénétrées forment une barrière de diffusion dense dans la matrice, le complexe de la membrane cellulaire (CMC) et les régions endocuticulaires des cheveux - qui sont les principales voies de diffusion hors des cheveux. L'étude confirme le potentiel de réparation des dommages du CBHO et le fait qu'il agit en augmentant l'hydrophobie des cheveux - à la fois sur la surface du cheveu et dans le cortex.


Asunto(s)
Cocos , Cabello , Aceite de Coco/análisis , Aceite de Coco/metabolismo , Aceite de Coco/farmacología , Cabello/química , Porosidad , Tensoactivos/análisis
2.
J Assoc Physicians India ; 68(7): 67-72, 2020 Jul.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32602684

RESUMEN

Coconut oil as health oil was recognized in Ayurvedic medicine almost 4000 years ago. The same health effects were also attributed to the mother's milk in ancient literature. Modern research has now found a common link between these two natural health products - their lipid content. The medium chain fatty acids and monoglycerides found primarily in coconut oil have miraculous healing power which act as natural antibiotic and also help modulate immunity. The information discussed in this review explains that coconut oil, either topically applied or ingested, gets broken down to release Lauric Acid and Monolaurin - known anti-microbial agents. The studies reported in literature are discussed to evaluate the antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal benefits of coconut oil. Not only does coconut oil metabolites have antimicrobial activity but also these remarkable derivatives have been shown not to cause resistance organisms to appear. The anti-microbial mechanistic action also helps activate the antiinflammatory nature of the immune response in human body. In vitro, animal, and human studies support the potential of coconut oil as effective and safe immune-nutritive active. New and exciting health and industrial uses of coconut oil and its derivative are possible. Never before in recent times has the recognition of the positive health effects of coconut oil been stronger. And never before in the history of man is it so important to emphasize both need and efficacy of natural products known for their safety proposition. Immunity has been a buzzword in the current scenario and the demand for modulating immunity with natural means has been so unprecedented and so ubiquitous. Coconut oil and its value added forms can contribute to a more vigorous and healthy future.


Asunto(s)
Ácidos Grasos , Lípidos , Animales , Antibacterianos , Aceite de Coco , Humanos , Masculino
3.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 41(3): 228-239, 2019 Jun.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-30866099

RESUMEN

OBJECTIVE: To predict consumer-perceived hair breakage based on parameters from three distinct categories 1) hair strand parameters-like curvature, stiffness and tensile strength indices; 2) hair matrix or bulk parameters-like smoothness, detangling, frizz & volume and; 3) biological factors like age, hair density. METHODS: Consumer-relevant evaluation techniques were employed in a uniquely designed protocol to obtain real-life data from the consumers' head without impacting or damaging their hair. Hairs of 50 Indian female subjects in the age group of 20-40 years were characterized using various instrumental techniques for parameters mentioned above, apart from the hair breakage count. Multiple regression analysis was performed over the data collected to arrive at a regression equation connecting the hair breakage observed with the key parameters impacting hair breakage. Validation of the model was performed by collecting additional set of hair characterization data for 18 Indian subjects with same recruitment parameters. RESULTS: A second order, non-linear multi-regression equation was proposed for consumer-perceived hair breakage with five predictors. A reasonable correlation (R2 = 0.76) was observed between predicted and observed consumer hair breakage values for the validation set. Apart from the hair surface lubrication parameters (smoothness and detangling forces), inherent extensional strength parameters and biologically relevant parameter - hair density - were found to influence the consumer hair breakage. The proposed model offers different insights into the interplay of parameter. The impact of the key parameters was documented on the consumer hair breakage and the same was found to fit well with the available knowledge. CONCLUSIONS: Current work demonstrates the usefulness of regression modelling in understanding complex consumer-relevant parameters by taking a holistic view of consumer hair breakage as a combination of various parameters measured individually at lab scale. The proposed regression equation serves as a tool for product developers to understand the physical parameters of impact when it comes to consumer-perceived hair breakage and make required changes to the formulation. The method presented can be used to develop model for subjects from other geographies and eventually a generalized model can be proposed.


OBJECTIF: Prédire la casse des cheveux perçue par le consommateur en se basant sur les paramètres de trois catégories distinctes 1) paramètres de courbure des mèches de cheveux, de rigidité et de résistance à la traction 2) paramètres de matrice ou de lissage, de démêlage, de frisottis et de volume et 3) des facteurs biologiques tels que l'âge, la densité des cheveux. METHODES: Des techniques d'évaluation pertinentes pour le consommateur ont été utilisées dans un protocole unique conçu pour obtenir des données réelles sans impacter ou abimer leurs cheveux. Des cheveux de 50 femmes Indiennes âgées de 20 à 40 ans ont été caractérisés en utilisant diverses techniques instrumentales pour les paramètres mentionnés ci-dessus, à part le nombre de cheveux cassés. Plusieurs analyses de régression ont été réalisées sur les données recueillies pour arriver à une équation de régression reliant la rupture des cheveux observée avec les paramètres clés ayant une incidence sur la rupture des cheveux. La validation du modèle a été réalisée en collectant un ensemble supplémentaire de données de caractérisation des cheveux pour 18 sujets indiens en utilisant les mêmes paramètres de recrutement. RÉSULTATS: Une équation de régression multiple non linéaire de second ordre est proposé pour la casse des cheveux perçue par le consommateur avec cinq prédicteurs. Une corrélation raisonnable (R2  = 0,76) a été observée entre les valeurs prévisionnelles et observées de rupture de cheveux chez le consommateur sur l'ensemble des donnés. En dehors des paramètres de lubrification de la surface des cheveux (forces de lissage et de démêlage), les paramètres inhérents de résistance à l'extension et les paramètres biologiquement pertinents - densité des cheveux - ont montré une influence sur la casse des cheveux du consommateur. Le modèle proposé offre différentes indications sur l'interaction des paramètres. L'impact des paramètres clés a été documenté et cela est confirmé par les connaissances disponibles. CONCLUSIONS: Les travaux en cours démontrent l'utilité de la modélisation par régression dans la compréhension des paramètres complexes pertinents pour le consommateur en utilisant une voie holistique de la rupture des cheveux des consommateurs provenant d'une combinaison de divers paramètres mesurés individuellement à l'échelle du laboratoire. L'équation de régression proposée sert d'outil pour les développeurs pour comprendre les paramètres physiques de l'impact lorsque il concerne la casse des cheveux perçue par le consommateur et ainsi de rendre obligatoire la modifications de la formulation. La méthode présentée peut être utilisée pour développer un modèle pour des sujets d'autres régions et éventuellement un modèle généralisé peut être proposé.


Asunto(s)
Pueblo Asiatico , Cabello , Resistencia a la Tracción , Adulto , Animales , Femenino , Aseo Animal , Humanos , India , Análisis de Regresión , Adulto Joven
4.
J Cosmet Sci ; 62(2): 203-7, 2011.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-21635848

RESUMEN

Improper hair care, mechanical abrasion, sun damage and chemical treatment changes the physical and morphological characteristics of hair. Several methods involving microscopic techniques, protein loss and assessment of tensile properties of the hair are generally used to evaluate the extent of damage caused. These are also used to determine the protective effect of hair care products. In the present investigation, the hair breakage index (HBI) was used as an alternative tool to determine the change in the properties of hair on weathering. HBI is a measure of the diameter of hair in a given cross sectional area of a marked region of hair on the scalp. The hair diameter changes as we progress towards the tip of the hair due to breakage. The ratio of the diameter of hair bundle in the distal region to the diameter of hair bundle in the proximal region from the scalp is used as an indicator of hair breakage. Higher HBI value is an indicator of hair damage.A study was conducted for duration of 16 weeks to assess the effect of weathering due to grooming practices on HBI values. The HBI and break stress for a group of 30 subjects were measured at baseline and at the end of 16 weeks (NU). Since Coconut oil (CNO) is known to have a positive benefit on tensile properties of hair, another matched group of 30 subjects who oiled their hair daily with CNO was used as a positive control (CNO). The HBI and break stress for this group were also measured at the baseline and after 16 weeks. It was observed that the HBI significantly increased in the NU group versus the CNO user group. The break stress also significantly decreased in the NU group suggesting its correlation with the HBI data. This study demonstrates the usefulness of HBI as a simple and effective tool for determining hair damage and its protection by different hair care products.


Asunto(s)
Cabello/química , Aceites de Plantas/química , Adulto , Aceite de Coco , Femenino , Humanos , Estrés Mecánico , Resistencia a la Tracción , Adulto Joven
5.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 20(4): 1306-1317, 2021 Apr.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32949101

RESUMEN

AIM: To utilize a matrix of single-fiber hair testing methodologies to mechanistically understand the impact of common oiling treatments-coconut oil and mineral oil-on hair strands. Further, the effect of hair twisting-experienced in everyday grooming practices-on hair strength was investigated under different scenarios. METHODS: Study involved multiple surfactant wash cycles of hair swatches with and without overnight hair oil treatments. Instrumental testing was done on strands from hair swatches-Tensile Extension, Torsional Stretching, and Tensile Extension of twisted hair fibers. RESULTS: Differentiation was observed in tensile and torsional testing parameters with 20 wash cycles, while no statistical significance was observed in single wash. However, when we combine the two stresses together by extending the twisted hair strands, a clear differentiation was seen even in single cycle for coconut oil in comparison with mineral oil and surfactant wash. The differentiation in tensile parameters for twisted fibers becomes much more prominent with multiple cycles. Penetration of coconut oil in hair strands makes the fiber core more flexible and thus helps negotiate the torsional stress at the time of extension. CONCLUSIONS: Product benefit discrimination in single-strand testing can be amplified by combining multiple stresses in one testing methodology. Observing the consumer habits and incorporating the torsion component in standard tensile testing of hair helps differentiate the two commonly used hair oiling treatments. Coconut oil was found to significantly increase the tensile strength of twisted fibers owing to its penetration inside hair core.


Asunto(s)
Preparaciones para el Cabello , Aceite Mineral , Animales , Aceite de Coco , Cabello , Humanos , Resistencia a la Tracción
6.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 20(8): 2396-2408, 2021 Aug.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34121304

RESUMEN

BACKGROUND: Increased frequency of using alcohol-based hand sanitizers (ABHS) by consumers during COVID times have resulted in increased incidences of skin issues on palms. OBJECTIVE: (1) To quantify skin damage with increased usage frequency of ABHS by consumers and (2) To evaluate Virgin Coconut Oil (VCO) as natural prophylactic agent to counter the adverse effects. METHODS: In-home usage study was carried out with 60 volunteers for a 15-day intervention-Control Group: 6 applications per day of ABHS and Test Group: Overnight VCO use (6-8 drops) followed by 6× usage per day of ABHS. This leg included dermatological evaluation and WHO Self-Assessment Scale for skin health. Another leg of measurement included non-invasive instrumental study (Moisture & TEWL Probes, Tape Strip for protein content and IR spectroscopy for protein & lipid content) on forearm of 12 subjects (25-60 years age) with and without VCO application and repeated alcohol exposure. RESULTS: In-home usage study established consumer experiencing skin protective effect of VCO in the context of ABHS onslaught. 25% increase in perceived moisture content was recorded for VCO users, using WHO Self-Assessment Scale. Instrumental studies confirmed an increase in TEWL and decrease in lipids & protein content. Overnight VCO application resists the extraction which builds up with repeated application. CONCLUSIONS: Current work provides evidence of compromised hand skin barrier with ABHS daily usage. Overnight VCO application helps prepare the skin for next day alcohol use. Based on the findings, a regimen of overnight VCO application on hands as a natural prophylactic is recommended.


Asunto(s)
COVID-19 , Aceite de Coco , Etanol , Humanos , Lípidos , SARS-CoV-2
7.
Int J Trichology ; 12(1): 7-15, 2020.
Artículo en Inglés | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-32549694

RESUMEN

AIM: The aim of this study is to propose a new quantification protocol for determining the change in hair properties on weathering and formulate hair damage protection metric to compare different hair care products. SUBJECTS AND METHODS: The study was conducted with 30 participants (nonhair oil users), wherein hair samples were collected and evaluated for (a) average cross-section and mean diameter at different sections of strand and (b) breakage point location on hair extension. Correlation between breakage point and hair mean diameter as function of length was studied. Inferences were extrapolated to characterize the quality of hair samples in (a) another matched group of 30 participants (coconut oil users) and (b) studies on hair swatches with different hair treatments. RESULTS: In accordance with the weakest link theory, on extension hair fractured at the section where average mean diameter (or cross section) is the smallest (correlation R2 = 0.86). The weakest link in hair fiber is connected with irregularity in hair strands-characterized by root mean square variability (Rq). We found that tips of hair have ~100% more Rq than the roots. Furthermore, regular coconut oil users have hairs with Rq lower by ~65% in comparison to nonoilers. Hair swatch studies confirmed that coconut oil-wash cycles (n = 20) help reduce Rq by 30%, whereas other hair treatments such as shampoos and conditioners did not lead to much change. A new metric was proposed - hair protection factor - to quantify damage control power of various products. CONCLUSIONS: Hair breakage is a complex phenomenon with multi-factorial effects. The present work identifies irregularities in mean diameter along hair length as the precursor for hair strength. The weakest link in hair is characterized by the presence of internal defects-preceded by surface irregularities. From root to the tip, cuticle chip-off increases and so does the Rq and tendency to break. Thus, the metric based on Rq can help compare hair care treatments in their promise to control hair damage.

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