Functional and Sport-Specific Outcome Following Traumatic First-Time Shoulder Dislocation and Arthroscopic Surgical Repair in Rock Climbers.

INTRODUCTION: Traumatic shoulder dislocations rank among the most common shoulder injuries in climbers, with rising numbers over the last years. The objective of this study was to analyze the outcome following traumatic first-time shoulder dislocation and subsequent surgical treatment in this population. METHODS: In a retrospective study, climbers who experienced a traumatic shoulder dislocation were treated with an arthroscopic repair of the labrum-ligament complex (LLC). The functional outcome was assessed with a standardized questionnaire and clinical examination, including the Constant Murley and Single Assessment Numeric Evaluation scores. The sport-specific outcome was analyzed using the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) scale of difficulty and a sport-specific outcome score. RESULTS: The functional and sport-specific outcome for 27 climbers (20 men; 7 women; 3 with bilateral injuries; age, 34±11 [17-61] y; data presented as mean±SD [range]) was assessed 53±29 (12-103) mo after surgery. The postoperative Constant Murley score was 95±8 (67-100) points. At follow-up, 93% (n=25) of patients had started climbing again. Twenty-one climbers (78%) reached a climbing level within the range of ±0.33 UIAA grades of their initial capability or even exceeded their preinjury grade. Only 7% (n=2) of the patients had a recurrent shoulder dislocation, leading to a secondary surgery, and, therefore, required ongoing postoperative treatment at the time of follow-up. CONCLUSIONS: Arthroscopic repair of the LLC following first-time traumatic shoulder dislocation in climbers shows a good outcome and a low recurrence rate. After surgery, most patients are able to regain a high level of rock-climbing ability.

Occupational Aspects of Alpine Helicopter Rescue Operations: Recommendation of the Medical Commission of the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme.

Helicopter rescue operations in the mountains or at high altitude are well-known as strenuous tasks often associated with some risk. However, there is no standardized procedure for preventive checkups of rescue personnel by occupational care professionals. Therefore, the Medical Commission of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA MedCom) suggests the procedure presented in this study. This comprehensive recommendation is based on more than 2 decades of research of MedCom members and extensive literature search. A total of 248 references were selected by the committee as relevant for the topic. To keep the recommendation handy, the complete list is available as supplemental material (see online Supplemental Material). This article recommends standardized procedures for occupational screening and better health of search and rescue personnel.

Rehabilitation of Annular Pulley Injuries of the Fingers in Climbers: A Clinical Commentary.

ABSTRACT: The annular pulley ligaments of the fingers are one of the most injured anatomical structures in those who participate in climbing. Despite this, there is a paucity of guidance clearly describing the rehabilitation and physical preparation parameters to return to sport following such injuries. The foundation of effective rehabilitation is the judicious application of progressive loading to increase the morphological and material properties of the damaged tissues. We maintain the optimal management of the climbing athlete after a traumatic annular flexor pulley system rupture should be grounded in the principles of strength and conditioning.

Ski Mountaineering-Scientific Knowledge of This New Olympic Sport: A Narrative Review.

ABSTRACT: Ski mountaineering (skimo) has been accepted as a new sport for the 2026 Milan-Cortina Olympics. The equipment used in this competitive ski mountaineering varies from leisure ski mountaineering equipment mainly in one point: the minimal weight. At the elite athlete level, skimo demands both maximal endurance performance and a high-intensity anaerobic capacity for the sprint and vertical races. Race time significantly correlates to V˙O2max, body mass index and racing gear mass. Available literature only rarely comments on competitive skimo injuries. Injuries are not only due to falls in downhill skiing but also can result from external hazards, such as avalanches and cold. The high training load of athletes in combination with a low body weight, low body fat, and exposure to cold cause high rates of respiratory infections in athletes. The inclusion of skimo into the Olympic program is expected to result in certain changes, such as higher training loads for the athletes and increased scientific interest into training methods.

Primary Periphyseal Stress Injuries of the Fingers in Adolescent Climbers: A Critical Review.

ABSTRACT: The worldwide rise in popularity of climbing and development of climbing as a competitive sport is reflected by its debut at the 2021 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo. Digital primary periphyseal stress injuries in adolescent climbers may pose a significant risk to long-term skeletal health. The aim of this article is to critically review research on the diagnosis and management of primary periphyseal stress injuries of the fingers in adolescent climbers. We adopted a systematic approach to searching for relevant literature. Articles were identified after searches of the following electronic databases: Discover, Academic Search Complete, PubMed, Embase, SPORTDiscus, and ScienceDirect. Conclusive evidence suggests digital primary periphyseal stress injuries are a consequence of repetitive microtrauma. Pain reported by adolescent climbers on the dorsal aspect of the proximal interphalangeal joint should be investigated promptly to avoid serious negative consequences. Clinicians should be aware of the efficacy of imaging techniques to inform a clinical diagnosis. A conservative management approach is preferred but in rare cases surgical intervention may be necessary. A diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for digital primary periphyseal stress injuries is presented.

Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review.

Climbing as a competition sport has become increasingly popular in recent years, particularly the sub-discipline of bouldering. The sport will debut in the Tokyo Summer Olympic Games. National and international competitions have three disciplines: lead (climbing with rope protection), bouldering (climbing at lower heights with mattress floor protection) and speed (maximum speed climbing on a standardised route in 1-on-1 mode). There is also a 'combined mode' of all three disciplines (combined) which forms the Olympic competition format; all competition formats are held on artificial walls. Existing literature describes a predominantly low injury frequency and severity in elite climbing. In comparison to climbing on real rock, artificial climbing walls have recently been associated with higher injury rates. Finger injuries such as tenosynovitis, pulley lesions and growth plate injuries are the most common injuries. As finger injuries are sport-specific, medical supervision of climbing athletes requires specific medical knowledge for diagnosis and treatment. There is so far little evidence on effective injury prevention measures in top athletes, and antidoping measures, in general, requiring further work in this field. An improved data situation regarding high-performance climbing athletes is crucial to ensure that the sport continues to be largely safe and injury-free and to prevent doping cases as extensively as possible.

Indoor Bouldering-A Prospective Injury Evaluation.

INTRODUCTION: Bouldering has become a sport of growing interest, but little prospective evidence exists about injury proportions and patterns. The purpose of this study was to prospectively evaluate the cause of injuries sustained during indoor bouldering, proportion of affected body location, and injury severity. METHODS: Proportions and patterns of injury among German-speaking indoor boulderers were evaluated prospectively in an explorative cohort study. Participants completed a baseline questionnaire assessing anthropometric data and sport-specific potential preventive and risk factors, followed by monthly injury questionnaires including injury location and injury severity over a period of 12 mo. RESULTS: Out of 507 boulderers, 222 (44%) sustained 305 injuries. Of those, 78% (n=238) were classified as Union Internationale de Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) 1, 19% (n=57) as UIAA 2, and 3% (n=10) as UIAA 3. Injuries of the upper extremities accounted for 63% (n=191) of all injuries. Injuries of the lower extremities accounted for 23% (n=71) but were more often classified as UIAA≥2 (P=0.0071; odds ratio [OR] 2.23; 95% CI 1.23-4.04) and were more often caused by falling (P=0.0005; OR 2.92; 95% CI 1.57-5.42) and jumping off the wall (P<0.0001; OR 4.39; 95% CI 2.25-8.56) than injuries of other body locations. There was no statistically significant protective effect of the evaluated potential preventive measures. Participants who used heavily downturned climbing shoes had a higher risk of sustaining a UIAA ≥2 injury (P=0.0034; OR 2.58; 95% CI 1.34-4.95). CONCLUSIONS: Injuries in indoor bouldering are common. Lower extremity injuries are associated with higher injury severity. Preventive measures need to be established to reduce bouldering injuries, especially during falls and landings.

Finger Flexor Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers.

Finger flexor pulley system injuries are the most common overuse injury in rock climbers. These injuries occur rarely outside of rock climbing, owing to the sport's unique biomechanical demands on the finger. As rock climbing continues to grow and earn recognition as a mainstream sport, an understanding of how to diagnose and treat these injuries also has become important. Our purpose is to describe current concepts in anatomy, biomechanics, clinical evaluation, imaging, prevention, and treatment strategies relating to finger flexor pulley system injuries. Our literature search was performed on PubMed with MeSH terms and keywords as subject headings to meet the objectives of this review. The "crimp grip" used in rock climbing is the mechanism for these injuries. The A2, A3, and A4 pulleys are at the highest risk of injury, especially when loaded eccentrically. Physical examination may reveal clinical "bowstringing," defined as the volar displacement of the flexor tendons from the phalanges; however, imaging is required for characterization of the underlying injury. Ultrasound is highly sensitive and specific for diagnosis and is recommended as the initial imaging technique of choice. Magnetic resonance imaging is recommended as an additional imaging study if ultrasound is inconclusive. Properly warming up increases the amount of physiologic bowstringing and is thought to prevent injury from occurring. Pulley injuries may be classified as grade I through IV. Conservative treatment, including immobilization, the H-tape method, and the use of a protective pulley splint, is recommended for grade I to III injuries. Surgical repair is reserved for grade IV injuries that are not amenable to conservative treatment.

Exercise Field Testing in Children: A New Approach for Age-Appropriate Evaluation of Cardiopulmonary Function.

Based on the wide range of problems to effectively perform cardiopulmonary testing in young children, this study strives to develop a new cardiopulmonary exercise test for children using a mobile testing device worn in a backpack in order to test children during their natural movement habits, namely, running outdoors. A standard cardiopulmonary exercise ramp test on a cycle ergometer was performed by a group of twenty 7-10-year-old children. The results were compared with a self-paced incremental running test performed using a mobile cardiopulmonary exercise measuring device in an outdoor park. The children were able to reach significantly higher values for most of the cardiopulmonary exercise variables during the outdoor test and higher. Whereas a plateau in [Formula: see text] was reached by 25% of the children during the outdoor test, only 75% were able to reach a reasonable VT2, let alone [Formula: see text], during the bicycle test. The heart rate at VT1, the O2-pulse, and the OUES were comparable between both tests. OUES was also positively correlated with [Formula: see text] in both tests. Testing children outdoors using a mobile cardiopulmonary exercise unit represents an alternative to standard exercise testing, but without the added problems of exercise equipment like treadmills or bicycles. It allows for individualized exercise testing with the aim of standardized testing durations instead of standardized testing protocols. The running speeds determined during the outdoor tests may then be used to develop age-adapted testing protocols for treadmill testing.

Rupture of the Short Head of the Biceps Brachii Muscle Belly Caused by a Rock-Climbing Accident.

The case of a 42-y-old rock climber who sustained a complete, isolated rupture of the short head of the biceps brachii muscle after falling onto his upper arm while bouldering is presented. This is the first description of this rare injury after a climbing accident. Moreover, there is no definitive consensus on whether and when surgical intervention is necessary in such a case. We performed a direct end-to-end suture of the muscle belly through an open surgical approach. Postoperatively, we performed a detailed follow-up, including clinical examinations and sonography and magnetic resonance imaging to check the integrity of the suture. After 6 mo, our patient had regained a full range of motion without functional complaints or pain. Concerning the sports-specific outcome, we only found a slight decrease in rock-climbing abilities (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme Scale of Difficulty grade VII+ postsurgery compared to VIII preinjury). In conclusion, we suggest that early surgical reapproximation of the muscle belly might be the best treatment option for this severe but rare injury in athletes.

Athlete's Heart in Elite Sport Climbers: Cardiac Adaptations Determined Using ECG and Echocardiography Data.

INTRODUCTION: Sudden cardiac death in a young athlete is the leading cause of mortality in athletes during sport. Specific knowledge about cardiac adaptations are necessary for a better understanding of the underlying causes of such events. METHODS: A retrospective analysis of the electrocardiogram and echocardiographic data obtained during the yearly medical examination of the entire German junior national climbing team was undertaken. First, data from 1 examination were used. In a second step, data from 2 examinations spaced 2 y apart were analyzed for a selected subgroup to gain more knowledge about adaptations to climbing. The data from the subgroup were compared to an age- and sex-matched control group of Nordic skiers from the German junior national Nordic skiing team. RESULTS: Forty-seven young climbers (20 girls, 27 boys) were examined once. There were no pathological findings in the electrocardiogram or echocardiography. The left ventricular (LV) measurements fell between those for athletes and nonathletes. Eight boys and 6 girls from this group were tested twice over a timeframe of 27.5 mo. All LV measurements increased over time. After 2 y, the measurements from the climbers were comparable to those of the Nordic skiers. CONCLUSIONS: Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (hypertrophy of the LV) is the leading cause of sudden cardiac death in athletes. An increase in LV dimensions was observed in the young climbers in this study. LV dimensions being comparable to high-level Nordic skiers after 2 y in the national team imply structural changes over time in this cohort.

Acute Hamstring Muscle Tears in Climbers-Current Rehabilitation Concepts.

Acute hamstring injuries are often caused by the heel hook technique. This technique is unique to climbing and causes injury to muscular and inert tissues of the posterior thigh. The heel hook is used by climbers during strenuous ascent on overhanging walls and when crossing difficult terrain. The technique reduces the amount of upper body strength required during strenuous climbing because the climber's center of mass is retained within the base of support. The heel hook is stressful collectively for the hamstring muscle group and musculotendinous junction. Depending on injury severity, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the management of hamstring injuries. Contemporary approaches to rehabilitation primarily advocate the use of eccentric muscle strengthening strategies because of high rates of elongation stress associated with sprinting and team sports. However, there is reason to doubt whether this alone is sufficient to rehabilitate the climbing athlete in light of the high degree of concentric muscle strength required in the heel hook maneuver. This review examines the contemporary rehabilitation and strength and conditioning literature in relation to the management of acute hamstring musculotendinous injuries for the climbing athlete. The review provides a comprehensive approach for the rehabilitation and athletic preparation of the climbing athlete from the initial injury to full return to sports participation.

Returning to Climb after Epiphyseal Finger Stress Fracture.

The number of youth participating in rock climbing has increased over the years. Finger stress epiphyseal fractures are the most common injury among youth climbers. These injuries tend to occur around puberty because this is when the physis is most vulnerable to injury. Additionally, it has been found that intensive finger training (campus boarding, a previously known risk factor for epiphyseal fractures) during adolescence can lead to early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand up to a decade later. There is currently a lack of a return-to-climb protocol for youth climbers following a repetitive stress epiphyseal fracture. Because of this gap in the literature, our purpose was to create a structured return-to-play protocol specific to youth climbers who sustained an epiphyseal fracture to the finger. By establishing these guidelines, medical professionals and coaches may be able to guide their athlete to gradually and safely return to sport.

Evaluation of Rock Climbing Related Injuries in Older Athletes.

INTRODUCTION: With the growing enthusiasm from people of all ages about rock climbing and bouldering, adaptions and medical conditions of the older athlete have become increasingly important. We aimed to analyze injury demographics, distribution, and severity for the older rock-climbing athlete. METHODS: During a 3-y period, we performed a single-center injury surveillance in athletes ≥35 y of age presenting with rock climbing-related injuries or complaints. A standard questionnaire and examination protocol were conducted. RESULTS: A total of 198 patients (age 44.2±7.1 [35-77] y) (mean±SD, with range) with 275 independent injuries were recorded. Ninety percent of all injuries affected the upper extremity, 6% the lower extremity, and 4% other body regions. The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme injury scores were 2.0±0.3 (1-4), and no fatalities occurred. Acute injuries were observed in 32% and overuse injuries in 68% of all injuries. Among the overuse injuries, 47% were classified as degenerative overuse conditions. Athlete age did not significantly correlate with the development of overuse injuries and UIAA injury score, but subgroup analysis showed a weak correlation of the climber age with the development of degenerative conditions (P<0.05). The leading diagnosis of degenerative conditions was subacromial impingement syndrome of the shoulder. CONCLUSIONS: Compared to younger athletes, older rock climbers demonstrate a higher proportion of overuse injuries, especially degenerative conditions. Profound knowledge of climbing injuries patterns and conditions in older rock climbers is crucial to prevent injuries among all age groups and to decrease the number of degenerative injuries.

Rock Climbing Injuries Treated in US Emergency Departments, 2008-2016.

INTRODUCTION: Previous research identified a trend for increasing numbers of injuries sustained while rock climbing. This study investigates whether that trend continued and describes characteristics of climbing injuries. METHODS: The National Electronic Injury Surveillance System registry was searched for rock climbing injuries in US emergency departments in 2008 through 2016 among patients aged ≥7 y. Variables included each patient's age, diagnosis, injured body part, mechanism of injury, and disposition. Injuries were graded using International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation injury grades. National estimates were generated using sample weighting. RESULTS: An estimated 34,785 rock climbing injuries were seen in emergency departments nationally, a mean of 3816 per year (SD 854). The median age of injured climbers was 24 y (range 7-77), with those aged 20 to 39 y accounting for 60% and males for 66%, respectively. Fractures (27%) and sprains and strains (26%) were the most common types of injuries. The most frequently injured body parts were lower extremities (47%), followed by upper extremities (25%). The most commonly fractured body part (27%) was the ankle. The knee and lower leg accounted for 42% of all lacerations and were 5.8 times as likely as lacerations to other body parts. Falls were the most common mechanism, accounting for 60% of all injuries. CONCLUSIONS: This study reports continued increase in annual numbers of climbing injuries. Whether this is based on a higher injury rate or on a higher number of climbers overall cannot be stated with certainty because no denominator is presented to estimate the injury rate among climbers.

[Finger and shoulder injuries in rock climbing]. / Finger- und Schulterverletzungen im Klettersport.

BACKGROUND: Sport climbing is rapidly becoming a popular trend sport, which has resulted in a surge of climbing-specific injuries. OBJECTIVES: The goal of this paper is to delineate the incidence of climbing-specific injuries focusing on finger and shoulder injuries. Furthermore, we aim to illustrate clinical symptoms and therapeutic strategies based on the current literature. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The incidence of climbing-specific injuries in a large patient population was recorded and diagnosis and treatment options were assessed considering the current literature. RESULTS: Finger and shoulder injuries are the most common entities in sport climbing. With regard to finger injuries, more than 30 different differential diagnoses were identified, with pulley injuries, tenosynovitis, epiphyseal fractures, as well as lumbrical muscle tears being of the greatest importance due to their climbing-specific nature. With regard to shoulder injuries, SLAP lesions play a particularly important role, currently representing the fifth most common diagnosis in the patient population analyzed. Further pathologies that are becoming increasingly important among sport climbers are injuries of the rotator cuff, long biceps tendon ruptures, impingement syndromes and injuries caused by shoulder dislocations (e.g. Bankart lesions). CONCLUSIONS: Finger injuries are common in sports climbing and can be challenging to diagnose and treat correctly. The number of shoulder injuries is expected to rise as new competition modalities and sub-disciplines (e.g. bouldering) increasingly stress athletes' musculoskeletal systems. An increase of degenerative injuries in long-time climbers is expected due to changes in the sport.

Compartment Syndrome of the Foot: An Evidence-Based Review.

Compartment syndrome of the foot (CSF) is a surgical emergency, with high risk of morbidity and poor outcome, including persistent neurologic deficits or amputation. Uncertainty remains regarding surgical approaches, pressure monitoring values, and the extent of surgical treatment. This review provides a summary of the current knowledge and reports evidence-based diagnostic and therapeutic management options for CSF. Articles describing CSF were identified from MEDLINE, PubMed, and Cochrane databases up until February 2018. Experimental and original articles, systematic and nonsystematic reviews, case reports, and book chapters, independent of their level of evidence, were included. Crush injuries are the leading cause of CSF, but CSF can present after fractures of the tarsal or metatarsal bones and dislocations of the Lisfranc or Chopart joints. CSF is often associated with persistent neurologic deficits, claw toes, amputations, and skin healing problems. Diagnosis is made after accurate clinical evaluation combined with intracompartmental pressure monitoring. A threshold value of <20 mmHg difference between the diastolic blood pressure and the intracompartmental pressure is considered diagnostic. Management consists of surgery, whereby 2 dorsal incisions are combined with a medioplantar incision to the calcaneal compartment. The calcaneal compartment can serve as an "indicator compartment," as the highest-pressure values can regularly be measured within this compartment. Appropriately powered studies of CSF are necessary to further evaluate and compare diagnostic and therapeutic options.

Rock Climbing-Related Bone Marrow Edema of the Hand: A Follow-up Study.

OBJECTIVE: Sport climbers strain passive and active anatomical structures of their hands and fingers to the maximum during training or competition. This study was designed to investigate bone marrow edema (BME) in rock climbing athletes. DESIGN: Systematic detection, treatment, and follow-up investigation of rock climbing athletes with BME of the hand. SETTING: Primary-level orthopedic surgery and sports medicine division of a large academic medical center. PATIENTS: Thirty-one high-level climbers with diffuse pain in the hand and wrist joint caused by rock climbing were included in this study. INTERVENTIONS: The therapy consisted of consequent stress reduction and a break from sports. MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES: Reduction of BME shown through magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and regaining of preinjury climbing levels (Union Internationale des Associations d' Alpinisme metric scale). RESULTS: In 28 patients, MRI revealed osseous edema because of overload at the respective area of interest, mainly in the distal radius, the distal ulna, or the carpal bones, which could not be otherwise diagnosed as inflammations, tumors, or injuries. We classified these edemas and fractures of the hamate because of overload. The edema was a stress reaction to highly intensive training and climbing with presumably high traction to the wrist area. The control MRIs demonstrated that even with a consequent stress reduction, the edemas required 3 to 4 months to disappear completely. CONCLUSIONS: Climbers with nonspecific, diffuse pain in the wrist and/or the fingers should be examined with MRI to detect or exclude the diagnosis of a BME.

Feasibility of a New Pulley Repair: A Cadaver Study.

PURPOSE: In this study, the feasibility of a new pulley reconstruction in which the tendon graft is pulled through a tunnel in the proximal phalanx, was evaluated using a cadaver model, with particular attention paid to the weakening of the bone structure by the drill hole. METHODS: Nine fingers from 6 cadaver hands with intact pulley systems were compared with 9 fingers from 6 cadaver hands with missing A2 to A4 pulleys but that included a repair using the new surgical technique. Each finger was fixed to an isokinetic loading device. The forces in the flexor tendons were recorded in each finger using a force transducer. RESULTS: The forces recorded in the flexor tendons of the control group were significantly higher than in the reconstructed fingers. The most common event in the reconstructed fingers was graft failure. A fracture of the bone due to the drill hole was not observed. CONCLUSIONS: The new pulley reconstruction could represent an alternative to existing reconstructive techniques. The cause for the higher forces recorded in the control group could be attributed to sutures used in the operated fingers. CLINICAL RELEVANCE: The new pulley reconstruction method may enable reduced extensor tendon irritation because it avoids contact with the extensor hood and could possibly prohibit cortical bone loss, a serious side effect in the "one and one-half loop" technique.